Picking the right wax for your BMW is crucial when it comes time to protect your car's paint. Not just because you need the best protection for your BMW's paint from UV rays, road grime, and even small impacts, but because if you're going to spend your valuable time cleaning the outside of your vehicle, you don't want it to be any more difficult or take any longer than necessary. The wrong product can leave your paint unprotected or leave you with sore hands, back, and shoulders after spending hours buffing and rubbing.
To help pick the best wax to make your BMW shine we asked you, our forum members, what products you thought were best. We also used our own expertise to make this list of the best waxes and sealants for your BMW. They'll all work for your non-BMW vehicle as well.
1. Editors Choice: Griot's Garage Best of Show
Griot's Garage has been in the automotive cleaning and protection chemicals industry for decades, launching Best of Show in 1994. Since then, the company says the formula has been used to make Best of Show winners at some of the world's most prominent car shows. Including at least one Pebble Beach Concours winner. Best of Show is designed so that it won't bake into your paint. Griots says that even leaving it on your paint overnight it will come off "in one effortless pass." A high carnauba content helps boost the shine and gives a deep "wet-look" finish, with the unique blend of oils allowing you to apply it to paint that's warm or cold.
Collinite Double Coat is another car wax that has been around for decades and continues to offer a durable protective finish that is meant to last 7-10 months to let you spend more time driving and less time waxing. It's often called the "winter wax" because Collinite has given this the highest concentration of polymer protectants of all of its waxes, letting it maintain protection even in the worst weather, with salt and slush and road grime. Because this is meant as a true wax, rather than a cleaner wax as are many other products, you'll need to make sure the surface is extra clean before application. The benefit is that adding another coat won't remove the previous one so you can apply as many as you want.
Chemical Guys is a more recent addition to the world of car care products, but they arrived with a load of expertise and some excellent products like this Butter wet wax. It's designed to be easy enough to use for even the most amateur, but the products are just as likely to be found in the shop of a professional. This is a wax that can even be applied to your ceramic coating (if you've added one to your vehicle) to give it even more protection and shine. The name comes from how the company says it melts into your paint like butter, giving you a deep
Meguiars Gold Class is a blend of carnauba wax and polymers (the Plus in the name) that is designed to offer a long-lasting coating that will protect your paint for months. It is safe for all clear coats and glossy paint finishes. Meguiars recently improved the formula to use the latest innovations to add a more brilliant shine with deeper reflections to make your BMW look even better than new ones. Gold Class is offered in liquid or paste, letting you pick the one that works best for you. Both can be applied by hand or using a dual-action polisher plus both paste and liquid come with a foam applicator pad leaving you one less thing you need to buy.
While the waxes above this on the list, and we'll point out that higher, in this case, doesn't mean better, use carnauba wax for their shine and protectant, this one combines that with some of the most advanced science in the car care industry to add nano-quartz ceramic technology. That adds ultra-fine polishing to remove small imperfections as well as oxidation of your paint and clear coat. Then the SiO2 fortified shine should repel contaminants and make water bead for months to come. It's also meant to be used as a conventional wax instead of needing extra or special steps, so you can apply it and remove it just as easily as any other on this list. Users say that it's ultra-easy to wipe off, making the hardest part of the waxing process a lot easier.
This is our first sealant on the list, and if you're wondering what the difference is, see more about it below. Jet Seal was recommended by user M-Bimmer who said that "with Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109...once a month after a wash, my car remains a mirror shine even after Costco drive-thru car washes every other week. And sometimes every week." Chemical Guys recommend it as a great alternative to a full ceramic coating or similar nano-coating as you don't need to do a complete paint correction before you apply this. Of course, you still can. It was designed to protect aircraft and last in extreme conditions while still preventing UV damage. It can protect your car for up to a full year with one application thanks to using all synthetic waxes instead of Carnauba. It can even be used on glass, clear plastics, and "any other glossy or clear material."
User Z4530i recommended Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions spray coating, and we'd be hard-pressed to find reasons to disagree. Turtle Wax's chemists developed a super-hydrophobic coating that means water practically leaps off of the finish. SiO2 polymers let water bead and sheet off of your finish and offer a chemical-resistant protective shine. This ceramic spray coating can be applied even in direct sunlight, Turtle Wax says, and can be used on all exterior surfaces including windows and headlights. Just two spritzes per panel are all you should need to keep your vehicle looking shiny and new for "a minimum of six months," meaning that a bottle of the product should last you years. It makes your finish so slick that one reviewer said they couldn't put their car cover on anymore: it would just slide off.
Turtle Wax's Hybrid Pro to the Max Wax offers a wonderfully 1990s name, but it includes the most advanced technology available in car wax today. Max Wax uses graphene, a thick honeycomb sheet of carbon atoms. Think of it like a single invisible layer of graphite applied over your vehicle's paint. The strongest material in the world can add that strength to the clear coat of your BMW. While ceramic coatings can be prone to water spots, graphene waxes claim that they are much less likely to end up with those same spots. This is a professional-grade product from Turtle Wax, and it's meant to last an entire year. Not only does it last for a very long time, but it is also able to give you the best shine anywhere while making sure your finish is easier to maintain with every wash. Graphene waxes are more expensive, but the newest technology always costs a little bit more, and that's usually with good reason.
Wax or Sealant?
We're almost all familiar with wax for our vehicles, but lately, more and more products branded as sealants are showing up on the market. What's the difference, you ask? Well, both are meant to protect your paint from UV rays, heat, moisture, oxidation, and other contaminants. They're also both meant to give your vehicle a deep shine and make your paint look glossy and fresh. They just go about it in different ways.
Waxes are usually made from natural carnauba wax. Carnauba wax comes from the carnauba palm tree, grown in northeastern Brazil. It's been used as a car wax for a century and is also used in candy coatings and to coat drug tablets. Sealants use synthetics, often SiO2, better known as ceramics. Using all lab-made ingredients, they can offer much longer-lasting protection but offer a more glass-like shine than the traditional glow of carnauba. Of course, some products mix both, and the most advanced product on this list is called wax and is entirely synthetic, so much of the difference is just marketing. Sealants do typically last longer, but some hybrid waxes can also go the distance.
Paste vs. Liquid?
If you're applying by hand, the biggest difference between paste wax and liquid wax is aesthetic. For many, the time-tested method of taking wax from the can and rubbing it into your paint is a soothing one. It can also be easier to control than a runny liquid. If you're using a machine to apply the wax, a liquid is easier to apply to the pad.
How do I wax my BMW?
The first step is to set aside a few hours, because if it's your first time then you'll probably need longer than normal. You'll also need a wax applicator pad and several clean and dry microfiber towels. If you're planning on using a machine buffer or polisher, we'll assume you don't need this guide.
Then wash your BMW using a quality car wash soap, rinse thoroughly, and allow it to completely dry. We mean completely, as the moment you touch a piece of trim or a mirror and water pour down the side of your BMW, it makes for a less fun afternoon.
Once your car is dry, we recommend moving it into the shade. That makes it easier for you, and the cooler paint will ensure the wax isn't baked into your paint which could make it much more difficult to remove. Apply wax to your applicator pad per the directions on the package. If you drop the pad on the ground, clean it thoroughly or throw it out so you don't drag dirt on your paint. Apply the wax to each panel in a very thin layer using a small circular motion. Less is more when it comes to applying wax.
We always recommend doing one panel at a time, that is hood, then doors, etc. At least until you have a better idea of how long the job will take you. If the instructions say the wax needs to dry, let it dry until it starts to look slightly chalky, otherwise, skip to the next step.
Remove the wax using a microfiber cloth the same way you put it on. Use gentle pressure and remove the wax from each panel. Once the visible wax is gone, another pass of wiping should give you the shine and protection you're looking for.
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To ensure that your BMW is performing at its best, you likely run the best fuels and lubricants that you can find. If you want your Bimmer to look as good as it performs, you likely want to detail it with the best products as well. Let’s face it. After spending a good amount of time getting off all that road grime, many of us want to bring back that sexy shine and luster that caught our eyes when we bought our favorite rides.
Professional detailers break out the buffing wheel and clay bar to restore that showroom look, but at the cost of removing layers of your clearcoat and paint. This is ok to do occasionally, but in the meantime, you break out the microfiber towels and wax to give your car the next best thing. This is what we want to know. What is your go-to detailing wax? Have you gone through different brands to find one that works better than others? We want to hear what you use to bring out the best shine on your Bimmer, so drop a comment below!
Updated 6/1/2021: Added recommended products with descriptions and links.
I have detailed cars as a hobby for the past 20 years. It doesn't matter what wax you use if your process is right. First, your car needs to be washed. I start with water, then a foam cannon and rinse, and finally a hand wash. Then I clay the surface to remove contaminants. Finally, I may use a decontaminant spray (basically IPA). I may use my dual-action buffer to remove scratches. For the paint surface now, I use a spray-on ceramic finish (Hydro2). Now i am done. Touchups are done with a spray called AMP.
TurtleWax “Hybrid Solutions”, spray. Follow the directions.
Maintains deep shine for over a year!
Don’t take my word, check out YouTube test videos.
Here’s one:
I’ve been using the tried-and-true Powerlock/Collinite combo with a topper (Beadmaker or Seal ‘n Shine), but I recently tried Turtle Wax’s 75th Birthday Ceramic + Graphene paste wax, and I absolutely love it. Great gloss, and I’ve not seen anything make such small, tight beads.
To ensure that your BMW is performing at its best, you likely run the best fuels and lubricants that you can find. If you want your Bimmer to look as good as it performs, you likely want to detail it with the best products as well. Let’s face it. After spending a good amount of time getting off all that road grime, many of us want to bring back that sexy shine and luster that caught our eyes when we bought our favorite rides.
Professional detailers break out the buffing wheel and clay bar to restore that showroom look, but at the cost of removing layers of your clearcoat and paint. This is ok to do occasionally, but in the meantime, you break out the microfiber towels and wax to give your car the next best thing. This is what we want to know. What is your go-to detailing wax? Have you gone through different brands to find one that works better than others? We want you hear what you use to bring out the best shine on your Bimmer, so drop a comment below!
Once paint has been "corrected", it shouldn't need to be done for years IF you maintain your exterior on a regular basis. The key is to keep contaminates from embedding into the paint. I've not had to paint correct but once on my 2014, done in 2016.
I touch up areas with 3M 06068 polish to take out light scratches, but I only do this every other year.
With Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, and Torque once a month after a wash, my car remains a mirror shine even after Costco drive-thru car washes every other week...and sometimes every week.
Any product that dries, and is buffed off, creates scratches....
1st picture is trunk with reflection of brick = optical shine....
2nd picture is hood with reflection of "junk" = optical shine....
A random orbiter buffer must have variable speed adjustment, else it shouldn't be considered....there are a lot of choices, but remember that YOU the user is the key to great results....maybe 10% depends on the "brand"....AND constantly cleaning the pad prior to adding product to the pad using an item like this........I use a Porter Cable because it's the unit used during Chemical Guys training class...(for paint correction, I use all Chemical Guys products)
The Torque I referred to in my post is Torque Detail. For best results, I use a slightly saturated microfiber towel of the Torque product (I do not spray it on the vehicle), and immediately followed up with a dry microfiber, doing each panel in this manner, and do not allow the liquid to dry. My first time, I did the car twice...but for the last 4 years, only need to do it once every 6 months or so...
Once paint has been "corrected", it shouldn't need to be done for years IF you maintain your exterior on a regular basis. The key is to keep contaminates from embedding into the paint. I've not had to paint correct but once on my 2014, done in 2016.
I touch up areas with 3M 06068 polish to take out light scratches, but I only do this every other year.
With Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, and Torque once a month after a wash, my car remains a mirror shine even after Costco drive-thru car washes every other week...and sometimes every week.
Any product that dries, and is buffed off, creates scratches....
1st picture is trunk with reflection of brick = optical shine....
2nd picture is hood with reflection of "junk" = optical shine....
To ensure that your BMW is performing at its best, you likely run the best fuels and lubricants that you can find. If you want your Bimmer to look as good as it performs, you likely want to detail it with the best products as well. Let’s face it. After spending a good amount of time getting off all that road grime, many of us want to bring back that sexy shine and luster that caught our eyes when we bought our favorite rides.
Professional detailers break out the buffing wheel and clay bar to restore that showroom look, but at the cost of removing layers of your clearcoat and paint. This is ok to do occasionally, but in the meantime, you break out the microfiber towels and wax to give your car the next best thing. This is what we want to know. What is your go-to detailing wax? Have you gone through different brands to find one that works better than others? We want you hear what you use to bring out the best shine on your Bimmer, so drop a comment below!
What would make my 02 325si miss and lag real bad when I give it a lot of gas I’ve replaced injectors cam sensors spark plugs coil packs 02 sensors I’m at a lose now code for transmission sensors plz any advice would be appreciated
What would make my 02 325si miss and lag real bad when I give it a lot of gas I’ve replaced injectors cam sensors spark plugs coil packs 02 sensors I’m at a lose now code for transmission sensors plz any advice would be appreciated
Last month I had some major issues after parking for 2 weeks under some old trees. First I had to deal with a lot of tree sap and after I solved the problem and managed to remove the tree sap the paint on my car looked really pale. I had to use Wax and I picked the second one you mentioned "Collinite Double Coat" and it was fantastic. I really recommend that one.
Standard car waxes are not designed to protect against the ultraviolet light which makes up about 50% of the total light, and is what creates your car's shine. In my case Tree sap caused the damage on my car's shine because it contains tannins, copper ions, and other natural substances. These reactions depend on how long it takes for you to clean off the sap from your vehicle. After removing it, I have used alcohol-based cleaner to prevent any future damage to your car. Be careful where you park!
Last month I had some major issues after parking for 2 weeks under some old trees. First I had to deal with a lot of tree sap and after I solved the problem and managed to remove the tree sap the paint on my car looked really pale. I had to use Wax and I picked the second one you mentioned "Collinite Double Coat" and it was fantastic. I really recommend that one.
Standard car waxes are not designed to protect against the ultraviolet light which makes up about 50% of the total light, and is what creates your car's shine. In my case Tree sap caused the damage on my car's shine because it contains tannins, copper ions, and other natural substances. These reactions depend on how long it takes for you to clean off the sap from your vehicle. After removing it, I have used alcohol-based cleaner to prevent any future damage to your car. Be careful where you park!
I'm not sure what that part means ... alcohol-based cleaners should remove oils, dirt, etc but also any protection, so now the clear coat would be unprotected ...
In your scenario I'd:
Do a good pre-rinse with a diluted road film remover like Superior Products Dirt Buster, Fire Power, Road Warrior, or Dark Fury (which you can easily order from O'Reilly's, but Dark Fury has to be used carefully!) - or an APC like Mequiar's or Super-Clean
Do a suds pre-rinse & rinse
Do a contact wash with low dilution of a rinseless wash like McKees
Do a decontamination spray down with a fallout remover like Iron-X, P&S Iron Buster or similar
Do a clay wipe with the McKees
Do an IPA (i.e., 91% isopropyl alcohol mixed 50/50 w/ distilled water) or paint prep wipe down (e.g., P&S Paint Prep)
Now that's it's all buffed dry & clean:
LSP (like TW Flex Wax) that sucker! It's the LSP that should prevent future damage and if you do a wash every few weeks & do a maintenance Flex Wax wipe down you be max shiny for min work.
Sure, if you do a wash every few weeks (even an easy rinseless wash w/ Mckee's & good microfiber rags), and the put on some turtle wax flex wax, bugs, tree sap, etc should more less hose off.
For the ultimate portable set up to get off even the worst stuff you'd do as above and then to maintain get:
Buy McKees rinseless wash, put a capful into 1 gallon of distilled/de-ioned water you can by @ Whole foods or similar for $0.49/gal - you can use a collapsible bucket for ultimate portability
Pour some of the mckees solution into a spray bottle and spray down the first 2 panels (hood counts as 2)
Take out 1 rag, wring out until just barely no dripping, fold into 1/4s; with 1/4 wipe down the first panel working top to bottom and right to left - no circles!
Use a 2nd dry rag & wipe the panel dry. Spray down the 3rd panel, flip the wet rag to a clean side and wipe down the 2nd panel
Continue this way until done; rags NEVER go back in the bucket - once they come out, they're out and if you drop one grab a new one
Once the car is clean, use new clean microfibers & spray it down with flex wax per the instructions
If you really wanna be awesome, buy a Worx Hydroshot - the cheapest model (w/battery & charger) is fine. now you can just stick the feed hose in the bucket and spray down your car that way. $80 for black friday!
If you do this every 2-3 weeks, bugs / tree sap / tar should mostly spray off after an initial spray over & dwell time - whatever doesn't should come off with a little agitation with a microfiber wet with mckees solution.
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