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whats up with these forums no one replies

1989 Views 28 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  bluebee
its a let down
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Sorry, I saw your previous posts..I am not being a dick, but maybe if your questions were more legible people can understand what you are asking? Are you typing on a mobile phone?
Some don't know; some don't care. My biggest complaint is about those who ask a question, get advice, and never feed back.

Do you have a question to which no one responded?
do I sign up again?
Did your use of the forum's search function produce any results? Here's a hint.... P1622 often does result from a failed thermostat.
yes edjack i agree it helps out alot with feeback and conclusions

Yesi have a big problem with overheating with a perfect 528i IV hade for 5 years ... and I can't pin point it with my low funds... I am very mechanicly inclined I just don't have the funds for the diagnosis
Yes its your mechanical T-stat. Later models like mine is electric. Part is cheap for that and DIY is super easy (if you have done it at least once before). If you haven't done it, you might have a hard time removing that huge nut that holds the fan. Personally it takes no effort at all for me doing a T-stat job since I have done many.
yes im on a vergin mobile phone and have big fingers lol

by I think I do get my point across my phone does suck tho.. but does that make a difference? ?
Hmmmm.... no funds for diagnosis? I thought diagnosis was free?

Anyway, no funds are still a problem because the solution is most likely to replace the entire cooling system anyway.

It's what the rest of us did when it happened to us (and, trust me, it happens to everbody here).

Here's more information on overheating ...
- What to look for when your KTMP (1) or coolant temperature gauge indicates overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) & what to look for in a perfectly normal E39 cooling system (1) & a picture of every failed part in the cooling system (1) & various techniques to properly bleed (1) (2) (3) & refill (1) & drain (1) (2) & flush (1) & what coolant to use (1) & what parts to replace (1) (2) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) (2) & what special tools to make or buy (1) & how to tell how old your cooling system is (1) (2) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) (3) (4) & a DIY for replacing the auxilliary fan (1) (2) (3) & the infamous fuse 75 (1) & the aux fan relay (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & a Behr radiator and Behr/Heat expansion tank autopsy (1) (2) & request for another Behr surge tank autopsy (1) & why new made-in-China Behr/Hella expansion tanks are DOA (1) & E39 Fan shroud removal DIY (Besian) (M54) & some of the better cooling system DIYs (cn90 1997-1998 M54TU) (cn90 V8) (aioros '99-03 M54) (Ågent99 '01 530i) (pelican 3-series) (bluebee M54B25) & tricks to replace the fan clutch nut (1) & lower-hose thermoswitch o-ring (1) & to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) (2) or Oetiker clamp (1) or misplaced thermostat wiring loom (1) or broken bleeder screw (1) & modifying the cooling system pressure cap (1), or using propanol-based zero-pressure fluids like NPG+ (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) or all-aluminum cooling system parts by Zionsville (1) (2) (3) aluminum radiators & what happens if you drive one mile too far with an overheated BMW cooling system (1).
I am very mechanicly inclined I just don't have the funds for the diagnosis
I overhauled my cooling system a few months ago. Yes it hurt my wallet but you need to think if you really value your car and how long you will keep it. I love my E39 and its hands down the best car I have ever owned. Plan on keeping it forever. With that in mind, I forked the almost $700 in parts to completely replace the cooling system. If you value your car and will keep it for a while, please do it even if u have to borrow money, use credit card, or rob a bank.. And don't even think about doing a half assed job on the cooling system. Replace all of it:

Fan clutch
All coolant hoses
Radiator and Expansion Tank
Radiator Cap
All belt pulleys
Belt Tensioner
Coolant Temp
All belts
wow hats alot of infi to comprehend but they want 80$ here in California

my main problem is over heating ..... sux fan only works when ac is on. when its overheating it doesn't's bleed fan isn't broken. the heater works .fan is strong. just over heats after 10 min I'm going crazy lol
thank u teck lord but i dont

think it is a 700$ problem that's y I'm on here because I no someone had the same symptoms and a easy fix I just can't get any input
thanx techlordi will try replacing my t stat and definitely let u no

but I thought if the t state goes the heater will not work OS this true? ??
Hey Mob..what the mileage on your car?

Perhaps your nearly incoherent posts are the reason you don't get responses. You need to provide info on your observations, and what you've done thus far to troubleshoot the issue.

If the phone is getting in the way, sit down with your PC and compose a better post. Preview it before posting.

Are you having to add coolant periodically? That means that there is a leak somewhere, and, when there's a leak, it allows air into the system, which causes an overheat condition.

but I thought if the t state goes the heater will not work OS this true? ?? No. If the engine is heating up, the heater will throw hot air.
i have 180 thousand miles and i dont need to add coolant

I replaced a hose and have a overheat problem
I gave you all the best threads to read if you are trying to diagnose an overheating problem.

If you drive just one mile too far on an overheated E39, then this is the second set of threads.

Trust me. You do NOT want to overheat the engine, even for a minute! See the threads below for details.
- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)

my main problem is over heating ..... after 10 minl
I replaced a hose and have a overheat problem
You have to replace everything in the cooling system. Every one of us has done so. It's what it is.

There's nothing more I can tell you because I've referred you to all I know already.

Good luck!
When does she overheat?
On highways, at traffic lights or both?
Does she overheat when you go uphills at higher rpm (>=2500) with some speed (>30mph)?
If it overheats sitting still but doesn't overheat while going at least 40 mph or so then its probably the fan clutch. To test the fan clutch you use a rolled up newspaper or magazine to try to stop the fan while its idling. If you can stop the fan from spinning easily just applying the newspaper to the edge of the spinning blade then the clutch is bad.

If its overheating whether your moving or not its likely the thermostat as mentioned or something more serious. Start with the fan clutch test first then replace the thermostat as its cheap and easy to do.

Make sure to bleed any air out of the cooling system after the thermostat job. If its still overheats after that based on what you said your mechanic skills are I suggest taking it to a shop.
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