[16valex]

I want to stick with OEM. Should I go with Luk or Sachs? And should I replace my fly wheel? 97-528 with 152K miles.

 

[ghostinhere]

oem flywheels are near the 1000 dollar price range. your call there, sachs makes good products. i'd buy them.

 

[dbruce]

oem flywheels are near the 1000 dollar price range. your call there, sachs makes good products. i'd buy them.

I believe Sachs bought Luk.....so no choice there. One thing that has been mentioned, is that many of the cheaper Ebay and other non OEM distributors of Luk/Sachs use older versions that don't have the newest revisions.

 

[jnyost]

Both clutches are the same. You can also look at Centerforce for about the same price. Check autozone for the flywheel. Should be sub $400 or so.

Jared

 

[BMW5MT]

Wow Autozone sells fly wheels for our cars!:yikes:

 

[jnyost]

Yep. And way cheaper than anywhere else. They are out of stock a lot so try to plan ahead.

Jared

 

[ghostinhere]

just remember, you get what you pay for. always with german cars. do it right the first time. you dont want to do it twice

 

[jnyost]

The flywheel is the same so the price things doesn't apply. It is a real LUK.

 

[cn90]

Can the Dual Mass flywheel be resurfaced like the good old days?
Or the DM flywheel has to be replaced?

 

[jnyost]

Can the Dual Mass flywheel be resurfaced like the good old days?
Or the DM flywheel has to be replaced?

It's hard to get the material out of the crevices. If it hasn't been destroyed you can just clean it up with scotchbrite.

Jared

 

[16valex]

I believe Sachs bought Luk.....so no choice there. One thing that has been mentioned, is that many of the cheaper Ebay and other non OEM distributors of Luk/Sachs use older versions that don't have the newest revisions.

OK, So I saw some LUK/Sachs on Ebay and prices are decent. But what do you mean the newest revision? Do you mean their Luk/Sachs are antiquated? Do I have to get the kit from a known good distributor in order to get the latest revision?

 

[16valex]

It's hard to get the material out of the crevices. If it hasn't been destroyed you can just clean it up with scotchbrite.

Jared

Hey Jared,
What about the thickness? Can I measure the thickness of the dual mass flywheel to determine if it needs a new one or what not?

Thank you for all your help.

 

[cn90]

It's hard to get the material out of the crevices. If it hasn't been destroyed you can just clean it up with scotchbrite.

Jared

I mean resurfaced by the machine shop, not by scotchbrite.

 

[jnyost]

I mean resurfaced by the machine shop, not by scotchbrite.

I know. That's what I meant. Resurfaced by a machine shop may leave some materials in the hidden crevices of the DMF. It's not recommended. So, to get around it I'd just take the glazing off with scotchbrite. That will work find if it isn't destroyed by heat.

Jared

 

[dbruce]

OK, So I saw some LUK/Sachs on Ebay and prices are decent. But what do you mean the newest revision? Do you mean their Luk/Sachs are antiquated? Do I have to get the kit from a known good distributor in order to get the latest revision?

Check UUC's posts on bimmerforums. They recommend replacing the flywheel after 80k and using a reputable seller of LUK etc. There are constant revisions going on with the clutch and flywheel over the years. The older versions are still sold.....but by second tier resellers. If you want the best and newest.....you need to pay the piper (all info from the UUC posts by Rob Levinson).

Rob recommends always pulling the flywheel after 80k. In his opinion, not worth taking the chance of having to do it all over again to save a few hundred.

 

[NFS]

I replaced my clutch at 80K miles and didn't replace the flywheel. My mechanic inspected the flywheel after it was removed and he said it's still very good condition. I am at 120K miles and the car drives great but YMMV.

 

[jnyost]

I replaced my last one at 70k. I probably could've used the flywheel again. It was a little burnt looking but was otherwise in good shape.

Jared

 

[palmspringstigr]

The dual-mass flywheel should last at least another 100k miles. If the clutch is replaced in time without damage to the flywheel then I would invest the money in an upgraded clutch in order to get more miles for the same labor cost. Thus, save the $400-$900 from the new flywheel you wanted and get a clutch with higher temperature tolerances than the OEM clutch. UUC has really nice items. Your other option is to get an aluminum flywheel with a carbon clutch but you are up there on pricing ($1,400 to $2,000 on parts alone) Check other reputable brands if you don***8217;t like UCC, LUK or Sachs. I have 180k on my E39 with one clutch job (LUK OEM) and the same factory installed flywheel (resurfaced when the clutch was replaced.) Let us know how it goes.

 

[Ryan M]

You cannot resurface a dual mass flywheel. There is no two ways about it. If there are hotspots or scoring it must be replaced.

 

[W.S.]

I want to stick with OEM. Should I go with Luk or Sachs? And should I replace my fly wheel? 97-528 with 152K miles.

only 152K I just replaced mine @ 173.5K AND, AND, I learned how to drive on that clutch....

You cannot resurface a dual mass flywheel. There is no two ways about it. If there are hotspots or scoring it must be replaced.

Exactly....I just had my clutch replaced and I luckly did not have to do the flywheel.

Also, go OEM BMW on the parts. Mine were abot $250 from the dealer (but I get a good discount).