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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to do my first oil change on my car but couldn't get the oil drain plug loosen to drain oil. Is there any particular wrench that i should be using? I used 3/8" Dr Ratchet Handle and 17mm socket. It doesn't say anything on torque or loads/etc..I am wondering if the socket wrench i used isn't good enough.

Thanks in advance..

2000 BMW 323I
 

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Some Muscle Head may have cross threaded the drain plug at the last oil change. You could choose to suck the oil out instead. Many fans of that around here. No crawling around under the car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the quick response..
I will surely put some extra muscle power, hopefully that should loosen the oil drain plug.

Getting the oil from top: i thought about it but want to give it the traditional way the first time i do, and then i will get the top oil changer. Any recommendations on top oil changers?

2000 BMW 323I
 

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Wow! Your car is 11 years old, and this it the first oil change? That's gotta be some kind of record. Oops, I see where someone else had changed it. You must have just bought the car.
 

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Thanks for the quick response..
I will surely put some extra muscle power, hopefully that should loosen the oil drain plug.

Getting the oil from top: i thought about it but want to give it the traditional way the first time i do, and then i will get the top oil changer. Any recommendations on top oil changers?
MityVac!
 

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John Voight's BMW
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agree, mityvac is the way to go.
 

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Before you muscle the old plug off, I'd suggest you get a replacement. That way, the car is stll driveable to wherever you buy it.

BMW oil plugs are hollow inside. They are meant to shear off if overtorqued, in order to protect the threads on the oilpan. So it wouldn't come as a surprise if you end up with just a plug head in the socket when you go postal on it, with the rest of the thing stuck in the hole.
 

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Before you muscle the old plug off, I'd suggest you get a replacement. That way, the car is stll driveable to wherever you buy it.
I bought a magnetic drain plug. Just a couple of bucks more. Not that it's going to help much, considering the engine has long been broken in, but I thought it would be cool to see if it catches any steel fragments floating around.

The engine block is aluminum, but the cylinder sleeves, crankshaft and valve train are steel. I don't know if BMW welds a magnet at the bottom of the oil pan as the Japanese do or not...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought the car very recently.

Ugghh i didn't think about possibility of ending up with plug head in the socket..Doesn't seem encouraging given the fact that it will be my first oil change.

I bought Mobil 5w/30; Mann oil filter.. wondering if i need to take Oil and filter to private BMW mechanic and get the oil change done. Will give it one more shot tomorrow and see how it goes.
 

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Lost but making good time
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Since it's your first oil change on this car, I'll mention this on the off chance you didn't know: Be sure to warm up the engine completely before your next attempt. Two reasons: 1) You're supposed to change the oil at operating temperature; and 2) Quite often a drain bolt or spark plug that won't budge in a cold engine will be easy to remove when warm. Good luck! :thumbup:
 

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Use that oil in another car, or take it back. Wrong oil. Only Mobil1 you can use is 0W-40.
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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BMW oil plugs are hollow inside. They are meant to shear off if overtorqued
The V8 plugs aren't hollow ... but you're right on the 3-series' I6 plugs.

I have the M54 and I learned the hard way about how easily the hollow bolts shear!

Since I seem to make EVERY possible mistake, I've written a dozen very highly pictorial "how not to" DIYs. :(

Here, for example, is the gravity oil change how-not-to DIY:
- How not to do an E39 gravity feed oil change (1)



And, for those who are unfortunate enough to use the Motive, here's:
- How not to do an E39 vacuum extraction oil change (1)

:)

 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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Only Mobil1 you can use is 0W-40.
Those of you who have made up your minds ... please IGNORE this post!
(I mean it!)

To the OP (and only to the OP):
If you have NOT yet chosen your brand of "Petrolism" religious dogma, then you will see the divine light after you read (and understand) the three religious doctrines painstakingly defined in this philosophical what-oil thread.

From a quick /motor oil(F3) in the VERY best of E39 Links
- Motor oil religous dogma & how it relates to BMW motor-oil doctrine (1)

A quick excerpt:

  • Jew
  • Catholic
  • Protestant
...

  • BMW-approved oils only
  • BMW-approved oils and similar oils only
  • BMW-approved oils and similar oils and quality oils only
Pick one.
 

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.... Wha? ....
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And in the future use metric...

Sent from my PC36100 using Bimmer App
 

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The drain bolt is easy to sheer off. I learned that the hard way and had to drive 30min to the closest BMW dealer to get another.... on the plus side they are the cheapest BMW part ive purchased.

Be sure to use a new crush washer that came with the MANN kit. Because of the crush washer there is no reasonable increase in perceived torque while tightening IMO. I find that a half to full turn after the bolt makes contact with the oil pan is plenty tight. Did you try a rubber mallet on the 3/8" dirve to break the bolt free?

Often oil changes with a full synthetic should be fine. BMW recommends 15Kmi, I have always kept it at 5kmi with whatever high quality 5w30 was available (generally Mobil1 or Valvoline Synpower). Oil is cheap insurance for a long lived engine.
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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couldn't get the drain plug open so i think i will take it to a bmw mechanic.
Wow. You give up easily.

I'm the worst mechanic on this forum, and even I can get an oil pan drain bolt off.

I'm sorry if this sounds condescending ... but if you want to do a DIY, you need to be a bit more aggressive.

Here's Snwbrdtec's mallet trick in operation (on cn90's volvo):


The drain bolt is easy to sheer off.
I agree. But, I doubt many (if any) people have sheared it off on the removal. Most (all?) of the shearing happens when putting the bolt back in.

In my case, I used a torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

 
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