Windshield fluid pump not working

Before you go buying a new washer pump, remove the front right wheel and remove a portion of the wheel well covering to expose the tank. The pump is on the lower left side. First remove the fluid level sensor on the right side and drain the fluid into a bucket or something, before removing the pump. Often the pump and the lines near it get clogged with gunk. Remove it and clean it and flush the tank, then check the lines going up to the engine compartment and hood for any clogging. Replace the pump and fill a bit with water and test it. If still no sound, probably need a new pump. Check the fuse first, as you say.

The fuses for the windshield washer are in the top of the glove box. Open the glove box, remove the flashlight (if yours is still there), find the two white plastic release screws on the top of the glove box, turn each 90 deg, the fuse block will drop down (pretty cool actually). The fuses you want to check are #2 and #4. Both are likely fine and you will be going into the right front wheel well for pump replacement.

Tips on repairing the windshield sprayer pump

I removed the screws, plugs and rivets to allow the passenger side front wheel well shield to be bent back giving access to the washer fluid reservoir and pumps. The picture below shows the reservior and pumps.

If your E39 has headlight washers, there will be two pumps mounted on the side of the reservoir. The one closest to the middle is the main windshield pump. The one closest to the outside is for the headlights. My main pump was frozen. The second photo (below) shows the replacement pump, the new grommet with filter, and the two types of plugs and rivets needed to restore the wheel well shield.

Tips:

• When removing the wheel well dirt shield, pry out the plastic plug at the bottom and closest to the center of the car. If it is a modern plug as pictured above, the smaller section of the top will side out when you pry on it. This will release the plug.
• The small plastic rivets on the fender lip have a center post which is pressed in when installed which cause the rivet to expand behind the sheet metal. You may be able to bend the shield out once all the screws are removed and press the "post" out of the rivets from behind allowing reuse. I just broke them off and installed new ones. A pry tool like a carpet tack remover is very helpful in removing the rivets and the plug.
• You need to lift the tab on the electrical connectors to release. They release easily once the tab is gently lifted.
• All pumps and sensors are attached to the reservoir through rubber grommets. They all pull straight out with a little wiggling.

Hope this helps.
CL

Windscreen Washer repair

Hi from Wagga Wagga Australia

just replaced my washer pump an followed the good pictures and guides on the forum.
Mine had been making a sound as if it should have worked but nothing came out.
Most difficult part was prying the plastic plugs out from inner wheel arch. Once they and the retaining screws where out I simply bent the cover back ouy of the way to allow access to the tank, pulled the wiring connection plugs off and removed the hoses.
I replaced the pump with a new one from Pelican parts with a new pump strainer also.
Washed out the tank as suggested and refited everything.
Put everything back and fitted new plastic retaining pins.

All good and works a treat. The pumps are not expensive and a fairly easy job. And a satisfying hours work.

Bruce Barter said:

The pumps are not expensive and a fairly easy job. And a satisfying hours work.

Click to expand...

I realize this is an old thread, but I like the pictures as I'm 'still scared about getting 'into' this repair myself.

You have more courage than I have -- it has been months that I've been without my windshield wipers!
- Pre-winter inspection of my 2002 windshield washer system

Neversaynever said:

I removed the screws, plugs and rivets to allow the passenger side front wheel well shield to be bent back giving access to the washer fluid reservoir and pumps. The picture below shows the reservior and pumps.
View attachment 159219
If your E39 has headlight washers, there will be two pumps mounted on the side of the reservoir. The one closest to the middle is the main windshield pump. The one closest to the outside is for the headlights. My main pump was frozen. The second photo (below) shows the replacement pump, the new grommet with filter, and the two types of plugs and rivets needed to restore the wheel well shield.
View attachment 159223
Tips:

• When removing the wheel well dirt shield, pry out the plastic plug at the bottom and closest to the center of the car. If it is a modern plug as pictured above, the smaller section of the top will side out when you pry on it. This will release the plug.
• The small plastic rivets on the fender lip have a center post which is pressed in when installed which cause the rivet to expand behind the sheet metal. You may be able to bend the shield out once all the screws are removed and press the "post" out of the rivets from behind allowing reuse. I just broke them off and installed new ones. A pry tool like a carpet tack remover is very helpful in removing the rivets and the plug.
• You need to lift the tab on the electrical connectors to release. They release easily once the tab is gently lifted.
• All pumps and sensors are attached to the reservoir through rubber grommets. They all pull straight out with a little wiggling.

Hope this helps.
CL

Click to expand...

So what if there is a 3rd pump on that tank? I have a 2 smaller ones closest to the engine and one large one farthest away. I have found that the front washers are the middle one. Reason being is the two wires going to the big outer one are both grounded and I am pretty sure that shouldn't happen. Thanks

Derek

I see this thread is pretty old..

I am not saying the hoses are bad too but look at your hoses,, and while you are in the area of taking things apart, clean out all the old debris, leaves, etc... the gasket that seals the pumps with the tank .. etc.. the plastic fender rivets are about $6.00 at the stealer.. for less than $10.00 at hearbor freight you can buy hundereds of rivets in a box.

Best you get the oem pump,, the cheap Autozone pumps work great, and last a long time, but use quick connectors.. I prefer the original connectors. So, check with the guy who says he has some in this thread. Or see if you can get the pump with the proper connector from all the online sources. EBay probably a good source or Amazon. Or anyof the BMW online sources.

If the pump is not working, I would also check the fuses, in the glove box, and in the trunk are many fuses,, at this moment I can't remember the exact ones you need to check. in this forum, I think there are fuse diagrams.

test the new pump with straight water, once you decide it is ready, not leaking, everything clean,, hoses are good.. and ready to put the reast of the parts all back together, then fill with the proper fluid. test again,, and put the plastic fender skirt back and the rivets. (btw, it's very easy to tear the hoels in the plastic fender skit. Be careful as it has to pulled tight to align the holes.

IMHO