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Nice alignment. Hopefully suspension parts are in great shape to keep it. I went through the same thing. Took two trips. They thought my .01-.02 was a writing error instead of .11-.12.


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Had alignment done today on X5. Tech said my requested specs were out of line per the green/red indicators which were 0.08°-0.15° on their Hunter rack. He said machine specs are straight from BMW. I asked him to still align per the specs here: .02° toe in all on all 4, camber middle of spec'd range, balanced side to side even if he had to change his settings. Here is the before/after. He said if I needed anything to bring it back and he'll adjust it. How'd they do?
View attachment 1019720
I like the rear but it looks like a slightly positive toe in front? So many things can affect alignment. New tires? Bushings & Tie Rods condition? Wheel Bearing Play? Rims bent? I sometimes put a dial indicator on rotors and rims to check run-out. Yes, even Alloy Rims can be slightly warped. The X5 apparently has almost 50/50 weight distribution, so, for "spirited" cornering, I'd prefer half a degree Camber in front and a slight toe-in.
 

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I like the rear but it looks like a slightly positive toe in front? So many things can affect alignment. New tires? Bushings & Tie Rods condition? Wheel Bearing Play? Rims bent? I sometimes put a dial indicator on rotors and rims to check run-out. Yes, even Alloy Rims can be slightly warped. The X5 apparently has almost 50/50 weight distribution, so, for "spirited" cornering, I'd prefer half a degree Camber in front and a slight toe-in.
Wait, what????

They adjusted the toe to 0.02 and 0.03... THEY SET IT THERE. and your suggestion is to look at a laundry list of 'problems'??? Why?
 

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Wait, what????

They adjusted the toe to 0.02 and 0.03... THEY SET IT THERE. and your suggestion is to look at a laundry list of 'problems'??? Why?
Ah so.....I should've said to check condition of other components before doing an alignment. Example: If bushings and tie rods are worn, no alignment will help. :)
 

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Ah so.....I should've said to check condition of other components before doing an alignment. Example: If bushings and tie rods are worn, no alignment will help. :)
Hopefully the shop would report the “free” report on suspension wear after the alignment. “We set the alignment to these specs but we found...”


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All good.

IMO a good alignment guy will roll your car too and fro, and let you know if the alignment appears to be 'wiggling' or wandering....

Bushes can wear, and get a 'set' to them- which can be (inadvertently) aligned out. But then replace your bushes and you need to re-align.
 

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Nice work.

The alignment before was quite bad- unbalanced, which really 'drives' some of the tires to excessive wear. You will see the toe in the rear was positive on the L rear. Just a wag, but LF wear issues? What mileage did you get on what model tires, with that last alignment?

How does that handle now? You've 'gone against BMW'.... car must be ready to flip over and crash I'd guess... ;)
Oh, report back when you hit 40k miles!
Hey ard - Thanks for the feedback. I ran them down to 2/32s so all 4 were basically toast and couldn't tell if one had more wear than the other. I had OEM Pirelli Scorpion Verde A/S RFTs and got around 55K out of them. I replaced with the new non-RFT Pirelli A/S Plus II's. It was between those and the DWS06's. Car has not exploded or caught on fire thus far -'going against BMW'-. Still in break-in period, but can already tell its a vast improvement coming from bald RFTs to new non RFTs. I'll report back as time goes on.
 

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Hopefully the shop would report the “free” report on suspension wear after the alignment. “We set the alignment to these specs but we found...”


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IMHO, a qualified alignment shop would check a few basic components like tie rods and bearing play before doing an alignment, especially if the vehicle has higher mileage or age. Then the customer can decide to rectify the problems first and come back after. I've seen it done a few times. The Tech locks up the steering wheel, lifts the front on one side, grabs the wheel at 12 and 6 and wiggles to check for play in the bearing. Then does the same with the 9 and 3 position on the wheel to check for play in the tie rods. Repeat for the other side. It's not rocket science. Anyone can do this at home before getting an alignment. If the suspension components have excessive wear, an alignment is just a waste of time and money. I've done this quite a few times over 40+ years with different vehicles before getting an alignment with new tires. Does BMW really recommend a very slight toe-out in front on an X5??Not toe-in??
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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Does BMW really recommend a very slight toe-out in front on an X5??Not toe-in??
E70 Steel Spring toe alignment ALLOWANCES - NOT recommendations
Front axle:
Total toe-in0° 14' ± 12'
Total toe-in adjustment*0° 14' ± 04'
 

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As you see from doug, the minimum BMW spec is 2' toe in.

Despite what the computer on the alignment machine says... ;)
 

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What does “total toe in adjustment” mean? I always wondered.


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I think it means both sides combined. Wheels pointing very slightly inwards (Toe-in) as opposed to pointing outwards (Toe-out) on a horizontal plane. Camber would be the angle of the wheels on a vertical plane. Negative camber is usually preferred, especially in the rear.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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I think it means both sides combined. Wheels pointing very slightly inwards (Toe-in) as opposed to pointing outwards (Toe-out) on a horizontal plane. Camber would be the angle of the wheels on a vertical plane. Negative camber is usually preferred, especially in the rear.
1019846
 

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I think it means both sides combined.
That’s the total toe in. Left and right added up. I got that part. It’s the “adjustment” number, which is different, that I don’t get.

Maybe the allowed adjustment in one alignment? As in; if you need to adjust more to get it right, adjust once to this max change number, drive it round the block, back up the rack, align further. Like that?

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Guess I have been lucky after 103K Miles. Car has always steered great.

Lowered Car at 20K Miles, asked that Alignment be recorded as- is for reference and of course after...

At 100K Miles changed the two lower links, sway bar couplers and steering rods (due rust). All was spot on incoming and outgoing measurements.

Of course Front Camber is +.45/+.52 after lowering but that’s not adjustable. I do have a set of Meyle Top Wishbones that are adjustable but never got around to installing yet. front Tire wear (18”) is great, square setup.
 

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That’s the total toe in. Left and right added up. I got that part. It’s the “adjustment” number, which is different, that I don’t get.

Maybe the allowed adjustment in one alignment? As in; if you need to adjust more to get it right, adjust once to this max change number, drive it round the block, back up the rack, align further. Like that?

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Bump.
Does anyone have a good understanding of the meaning of “total toe in adjustment” in this context?


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hmmm. Or maybe that is the max before they resettle the car and look at the numbers again?
 

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Another ringing endorsement for ARD's specs! Just got roughly 40K miles out of my fronts. New Michelin A/S 3's put on today to match the rears. I feel like a proud papa. I think I could have squeezed a few more miles out them but they were getting loud.
 

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Damn, son...Id run those another 15k here in CA once the rain stops!

;)
 
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