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Vehicle drives great on the highway, no pulling or tramlining whatsoever, the tech is the one I met with before the alignment who stated that a minimum toe such as .01 would create stability issues on the highway, one thing I did notice is that my rear camber is -1.1 and -1.2 which I believe the -1.1 is out of the BMW spec, will this camber number of -1.1 cause any issue ?
Looking at my spec sheet the BMW camber target and range is as follows:

Rear at -1.3 +/- 0.15
Front at -0.20 +/- 0.30

So -1.10 is slightly under the minimum spec for the rear camber. I doubt this will have a noticeable impact but as you know ard's the real expert. I am guessing the back tires will set in a turn a little quicker especially with some load in the back.
 

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Looking at my spec sheet the BMW camber target and range is as follows:

Rear at -1.3 +/- 0.15
Front at -0.20 +/- 0.30

So -1.10 is slightly under the minimum spec for the rear camber. I doubt this will have a noticeable impact but as you know ard's the real expert. I am guessing the back tires will set in a turn a little quicker especially with some load in the back.
You need to recognize that those specs are in 'degrees' and 'minutes'

so the 1 with a little circle, then 30 and a ' symbol is "one degree, thrifty minutes"

Each degree has 60 minutes. So it 1', 2', 3', ....59' then 1degree00'. (no symbol here)

Anyway, your numbers look in spec. The 1deg30min minus 15 minute equates to 1deg15 min...you are spot on it looks like: 1deg30min and 1deg28min.
 

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Interesting and why should inspect your vehicle when picking it up from service. Got a TPMS message when leaving church this morning that the RR tire was low. Stopped at the gas station in the same parking lot and checked, it was fine at 36 psi. That's when I noticed a big white scuff on the edge of the rim and a lot of black goop on the lip too.

Looks like they took this tire off, which explains the black bead sealer and possibly the TPMS message without a proper reset. The white scuff is either from the alignment marker head OR the tire machine if they indeed remove the tire. There was no issue with the tire before just the alignment. It does not look like a road rash given the white Teflon scratch.

I am hoping this can be buffed out or should I expect a new tire instead? Anybody with experience on this repair?
 

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It was a miracle my tires lasted to 30k especially with a total front toe at .29, never saw such a high positive toe number on the front ? ( 0.63 ) - left front, ( - .035 ) right front ?
My 2012 X5 35d with 2100 miles went in for an alignment check because I started noticing a lot of noise, Hendrick in Charlotte NC said I was WAY out on the toe. Ard a member here suggested the proper numbers but Hendrick had to set it to "factory" specs, which was far away from where I was in settings. My 20" Dunlaps were and still are flat out destroyed.

Something is VERY wrong in BMW's alignment department in Spartanburg SC.:thumbdwn:
 

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My 2012 X5 35d with 2100 miles went in for an alignment check because I started noticing a lot of noise, Hendrick in Charlotte NC said I was WAY out on the toe. Ard a member here suggested the proper numbers but Hendrick had to set it to "factory" specs, which was far away from where I was in settings. My 20" Dunlaps were and still are flat out destroyed.

Something is VERY wrong in BMW's alignment department in Spartanburg SC.:thumbdwn:
As soon as you acquire a car, new or used, you must do an alignment.
 

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Maybe alignment becomes screwed up during shipping. :dunno:
Interesting theory as both of our X5's were picked directly at the factory in SC and have not exhibited any symptoms of misalignment. In fact, the tires on our 2010 (Bridgestone Dueler RFT) are still in good tread shape after 40,000 miles and I have no reason to believe I can't get at least another 5,000, maybe up to 10,000 miles out of them.
 

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. Ard a member here suggested the proper numbers but Hendrick had to set it to "factory" specs, which was far away from where I was in settings.
My specs ARE WITHIN THE BMW SPECS!!!!!

If they tell you 'we can't' they are lying. IMO

The problem is that SC and dealers are lazy...throw it on the rack, if 'green' they're done. They dont want to do any more than the minimum.
 

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Made an appointment with dealer to do an alignment under warranty ! SA advises me to come in asap as BMWNA is clamping down on warranty alignment. I don't remember the numbers now but it's only allowed within the first few hundred miles on ownership. :eek:
 

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My specs ARE WITHIN THE BMW SPECS!!!!!

If they tell you 'we can't' they are lying. IMO

The problem is that SC and dealers are lazy...throw it on the rack, if 'green' they're done. They dont want to do any more than the minimum.
So what are YOUR recommended settings for a proper alignment all the way around...I've seen bits and pieces in threads but how about one thread that shares ALL of your expertise? I am headed to dealership in about 30 mins and would love to have this info....they are checking alignment and redoing if out...Thanks!
 

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So what are YOUR recommended settings for a proper alignment all the way around...I've seen bits and pieces in threads but how about one thread that shares ALL of your expertise? I am headed to dealership in about 30 mins and would love to have this info....they are checking alignment and redoing if out...Thanks!
Use these:





with the following note:

Toe is "target 0 05 with a 'plus minus' of 0 05"...this equates to 0 dgrees 0 minutes up to 0 degrees 10 minutes.

Set the toe CLOSE to zero BUT NOT ZERO.

0 degrees 1 or 2 minutes. All 4 tires.

If they are measuring not in degrees, but in inches you want 0.01 to 0.02" toe in each wheel.

Camber I like in mid range. If you are tracking, all bets are off. You want more camber, different toe for turn in, etc...and you will not be concerned with tire wear.

People get all stupid about 'race stuff': Racers use this oil, so will I...or race cars have more toe so it must be better for my 30,000 mile touring tires. Etc.

You do not want zero toe, car will tramline and wander. 0.02 if you are overly concerned.

You can see from how BMW sets up the "target" at mid spec, mechanics think this is 'best'- it is not, in fact the spec is set this way to minimize labor and speed the process. It is easier to nail the middle of a spec, than to set it at the end.

You're prolly back from the dealer by now, but it may assist someone

A
 

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Hi Ard, I soon need to get some new tires for my X5 diesel that has devoured the original Michelin runflats in 16k miles. I won't get more than 20k out of them. Won't be replacing with runflats.

I asked the dealer about it and he suggested getting an alignment right after getting my new tires. And suggested I get the tires elsewhere to save money but to have the BMW dealership do the alignment because they properly weigh the vehicle down and many shops do not. I have no idea how accurate this is, but at least he seemed like he was honestly trying to help since he advised to buy tires elsewhere. If I'm going to shop around to find a place to do the alignment, and to mount/balance the new tires, it would be nice to know what I should ask for in terms of equipment and process.

Also, my X5 has the 18" wheels. I guess that changes the specs that you posted?

Thanks
 

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1. Why do people think runflats are the devils tires???? There is nothing about a runflat that leads to reduced tire life. You want to argue handling, fine- but not tire life. Plus the mich latitide is a gret runflat, superior to other brands. On my X5 with 19" rims it handles fine- but I have other cars to play in, the X5 is the SUV. I got 30k out of one set of latitude RFTs on my 2010, and am at 27k on the current set, which are toast now but since they wont see rain for 4 months I have time to replace them. Another set of Latitude ZP (run flats) in the future. (I could probably post a 'tires wanted' and find someone who things the runflats are radioactive! :) )

2. Dealer probably believes in his alignment. He is being honest about the price. HOWEVER, two issues: First, the 'BMW weighting' procedure will give you a well aligned car if you drive it fully laden 90% of the time. DO YOU? I align the car weighted the way it will be driven, which is a 115lb driver and 75 lbs of horse crap in the back. (which is to say that I do no weighting...) Second, Dealer believe "mid spec" is their target. I dont. Those drivers/posters/members here and elsewhere that adhere to the "minimum toe for maximum miles' have validated that approach. Unless they agree to set it to the MINIMUM of the BMW toe spec, go elsewhere. You'll talk to the SA, he'l dutifully take notes, but then the master alignment tech will set it where he wants it and feed you some story about "BMW handling" or "these cars are made to perform" and 'you have to pay to play"..... Truthfully, I like standing with the guy- looking at the numbers, discussing what he is seeing, etc. You dont get this at a dealer. Give the guy $10 for 'putting up with me' and you'll develop a relationship with one shop which will serve you over time. IMO

3. Rim size doesnt matter.
 

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1. Why do people think runflats are the devils tires???? There is nothing about a runflat that leads to reduced tire life. You want to argue handling, fine- but not tire life. Plus the mich latitide is a gret runflat, superior to other brands. On my X5 with 19" rims it handles fine- but I have other cars to play in, the X5 is the SUV. I got 30k out of one set of latitude RFTs on my 2010, and am at 27k on the current set, which are toast now but since they wont see rain for 4 months I have time to replace them. Another set of Latitude ZP (run flats) in the future. (I could probably post a 'tires wanted' and find someone who things the runflats are radioactive! :) )
Do you rotate tire? I read on this forum that BMW does not do that. Also, how often do you check alignment? Once a year or once tire change/first time BMW?
 

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Do you rotate tire? I read on this forum that BMW does not do that. Also, how often do you check alignment? Once a year or once tire change/first time BMW?
Yes, I rotate tires.

Usually with new tires. With the first x5 I didnt do it, as I heard more horror stories I had my 2012 done when new.
 

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Use these:





with the following note:

Toe is "target 0 05 with a 'plus minus' of 0 05"...this equates to 0 dgrees 0 minutes up to 0 degrees 10 minutes.

Set the toe CLOSE to zero BUT NOT ZERO.

0 degrees 1 or 2 minutes. All 4 tires.

If they are measuring not in degrees, but in inches you want 0.01 to 0.02" toe in each wheel.

Camber I like in mid range. If you are tracking, all bets are off. You want more camber, different toe for turn in, etc...and you will not be concerned with tire wear.

People get all stupid about 'race stuff': Racers use this oil, so will I...or race cars have more toe so it must be better for my 30,000 mile touring tires. Etc.

You do not want zero toe, car will tramline and wander. 0.02 if you are overly concerned.

You can see from how BMW sets up the "target" at mid spec, mechanics think this is 'best'- it is not, in fact the spec is set this way to minimize labor and speed the process. It is easier to nail the middle of a spec, than to set it at the end.

You're prolly back from the dealer by now, but it may assist someone

A
Hi Ard or anyone else who can help!

I am having a set of Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires put on my 2012 X5 diesel tomorrow and alignment done on Friday AM at the dealership. These are 255/55R18s. I was going to use a specialist alignment shop but I chickened out this time and just paid the dealer the big bucks ($250) so I want to make sure its done right. They agreed to adjust to my requested parameters as best they can, so long as its somewhere within the BMW spec range. I think this is reasonable. They really shouldn't agree to make adjustments out of their spec ranges nor do I want to do that.

I have the active suspension system if that makes any difference. I drive curvy mountain roads at pretty high speeds, but also routine freeways for long distances and snow/ice during ski season Dec-Apr. So I need to find a balance of performance and tire life as I want to get at least 30k out of these tires so they make it until next fall. Seems like in order to have good tread for snow in the winter I will need to change tires every fall and I drive ~30k miles per year. It really sucks to change tires annually, but I doubt I have much alternative since I'm not going to get two years/60k of safe use and don't want to end up in the middle of snow season with heavily worn tread on an all season tire.

Anyway, I'd appreciate your alignment advice.
- all 4 tires toed in at +0d01' to +0d02'?
- all 4 tires camber as close to BMW target as possible (-1d30' rear, -0d20' front)? Any warnings on how bad if they deviate far from the target but are still within the min/max?
- what about the other parameters such as front caster, SAI, setback, track diff angle, etc?
- anything else I should ask or specify?

I plan to get before and after numbers and will post.

Thank you!
 

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I just had new Michelin Latitude Tour HP ZP tires mounted a couple of weeks ago and asked them to get the toe angle for front and rear to be 0.02 degrees but I did not get that.

Here's my alignment report (note: the guy forgot to record the 'before' numbers so the numbers shown in 'before' are actually the 'current' numbers).

After re-reading this thread, I'll be going back to the tire shop to have them re-do the alignment. They did say if I wasn't happy with it, they would re-do it for free.

ard, how bad does this alignment look?

Also, after looking at other people's alignment sheets, I see the range is different. Why is that?

 

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Horrific.

Really pretty amazing... incompetent not to have a baseline...that is essential to understanding what the car has done to your tires.

Too much toe upo front, too little on one rear and way to much on the right rear..
 
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