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Do yu actuall understand there is no such thing as "the factory alignment"???????

0.02 all around, balanced at mid spec caster and camber IS IN THE FACTORY SPEC. Works on almost any bmw. RUn the same on my M5, other cars as well

So saying 'they did a factory alignment' means nothing.

Cool. Imma try those numbers and see what happens. ***128077;
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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The principle is to maximize tire life by minimizing squirm and friction with the wheels set as close as possible to straight ahead but with little chance of more than transient toe-out; with its known problem of darting. No one that I know has ever made an objective principled argument for more toe-in. Arguments made are always subjective.

Camber is to accommodate body lean and weight transfer to the out side wheels. None will work but too much will eat tires.
 

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Cool. Imma try those numbers and see what happens. ***128077;
Post your before AND after numbers.

By looking at before numbers, and hearing what the issues WERE, you can get a sense of the alignment was the issue and how it will work for you going forward.

If you've read this thread, you will understand that it takes some effort to make a shop hit these numbers. Id say 50% of the people that try to take this advice, get confused/intimidated/turned around by the shop (or ignored) and come away with crappy alignments....

GL
 

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Hey Ard, I just got my car back from the alignment shop. I had given them a piece of paper and spoke to the shop owner who I know and let him know I wanted it exactly as I asked.

*Minimum toe, No more than 0.02 per tire, toe in.

*Camber should be near the middle of the BMW spec, but balanced side to side - as near as possible.


I had to do TWO alignments, so I have two printouts. I had to replace my tie rods between alignments.

Car is lowered on BC coilovers, 19x9 Style 335 wheels all around.

Before tie rod replacement.


after and final alignment, as it currently rides...


So how did they do?
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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You ordered and paid for ***8220; *Minimum toe, No more than 0.02 per tire, toe in.***8221;. The only argument that they have is that you did not attach units to your ***8220;0.02***8221;

Other than than, it looks balanced and useable. What are front camber specifications for your after to be RED?
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 121K miles NOKIAN WR G3 30K miles
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24,265 Posts
I use the dealer for all work, divided between Appleton and Ocala.
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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So how did they do?
Really?! You dont need me to tell you that is horrible. Why did you leave!??!?

0.01 - 0.02

They gave you 0.11, 0.12

Just terrible.
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Where do you guys all get alignments? Indie? Dealer?

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I go anywhere that WILL LISTEN TO ME AND DO WHAT I TELL THEM.

(Actually I know someone that has a tire franchise, so use his alignment guys. A big O tire store.)

But the key is finding a shop that will listen and work with you. BMW dealers are assholes who know everything. And are lazy. You can spend 20 minutes with the smarmy 'service advisor', who then send the car for an alignment and doesn't say crap to the tech. Tech puts it on the rack, wiggles stuff until everything is green, there you go. Even if they hear 'minimum toe' they set it to the target number (thinking the target - ie +0 and -0 is 'spot on', hence minus minimum.

Tire stores with a hunter rack probably run you $100. 89 to 129 probably the range across the US.

Having said all that, NYC seems to have done everything he could..and still. :dunno::dunno:

If I was having other issues with us pension, noise, wear, etc, then maybe a tire shop might not be as good as an Indy, in terms of overall skill for both alignment AND 'what is causing my issue'. But for simple alignments, its not that hard.
 

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Finally found an alignment shop willing to work with me. Here is what I asked for:

Front Toe - "0 degrees 0 minutes up to 0 degrees 10 minutes (inward, or positive) - Set the toe CLOSE to zero BUT NOT ZERO"

Rear Toe- "0 degrees 0 minutes up to 0 degrees 10 minutes (inward, or positive) - Set the toe CLOSE to zero BUT NOT ZERO"

Rear Camber: "1.1 Degrees Negative (1.1 to 1.3 Negative)"

Front Drivers Camber seems a little out of spec, but nothing like the first shop made it sound like. This shop saw no signs of damage, and indicated it was likely more of a manufacturing tolerance than damage, not sure what to make of that comment, telling me what I want to hear?

Also would have liked a bit less rear camber, debating whether I should go back and ask them to get closer to the original request, thoughts? :dunno:

Overall thoughts? :thumbup: or :thumbdwn:
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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horrible, way too much toe.

0.01 to 0.02''It shouldnt be that hard
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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How did the alignment machine come up with 0.08 as min toe? I've seen 0.05 as min toe in my shop too, but bmw min is 0.02. Why would machine manufacturers do that?

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I know, super annoying. Then shops get 'stuck' on it, get SUPER resistant to setting below what the machine says. Even if the machine is wrong.

Someone correct me, did BMW change from 0,00 to 0,02 over the years on the E70? I forget.

and NYCDitto...whats up man? Get that fixed yet??
 

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Hmm, just noted that aligning is supposed to happen with de brake pedal depressed. Why is that? Doesn’t that put some funny tension on the suspension?

Also; I don’t usually drive around with my foot on the brake...


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Resident Curmudgeon
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I think that is only a CYA, to avoid people rolling the car off the rack and claiming it is BMWAGs fault...

a good alignment tech will hand roll the car to and fro on the plates to make sure everything is relaxed and the readings are accurate
 

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I just installed a new set of 20' tires. Below are the specs I got the last time (got min toe 0.04 as the machine indicated this as min :) ). Generally, handling and wear in the back was good (even). The front was wearing more on the outer edge. What should I correct now? 40-50% mileage currently is towing (heavy rear axle), but I am not sure, if there should be anything to correct for this. Thanks!



 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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whoops. Missed this.

What tire pressure you running up front?

I suppose you could go a bit more neg camber, like -0.4?

Still think you should try 0.02 toe. Screw their machine...after all they are saying it has steel wheels...how can you trust it at all!?

;)
 

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Thanks. Tire pressure 32 psi and 38-40 psi when towing. I will ask them to adjust camber as you mentioned. Will see how it goes with toe...
 
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