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My comment may seem snobbish to you, but your original response seemed insulting to me. You followed it up with an even more ridiculous and immature response. "Where do I draw the line?" I can help you answer those questions but I am assuming you have some basic human reasoning capabilities. I am glad you are saving money to put your kids to college, but I have no interest in knowing what zipcode your house is in. The fact is we both perceive value differently. I may not be as mechanically inclined as you or most ppl in this forum. I also prefer to spend time do other things that have a higher opp cost to me.
You clearly have some reading comprehension problems.

My first line was : if you don't have time and NEED a loaner, there's no other option.

No need to get butt hurt over this. There're many reasons why people pay for service. I use to as well when I lived in an apartment. I still do, on work that requires a lift, ecu tinkering, or special tools. All I was doing was breaking down the dealer profit part of the equation for some who wants to put a dollar value on their time. I do this calc every time I decide if I'm going to DIY or take it to a shop

As ARD said, by using class or ability to pay as an argument to support a decision is plain stupid and will get similar responses from DIYers 10/10 times. Good day and good grief.
 

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You clearly have some reading comprehension problems.

My first line was : if you don't have time and NEED a loaner, there's no other option.

No need to get butt hurt over this. There're many reasons why people pay for service. I use to as well when I lived in an apartment. I still do, on work that requires a lift, ecu tinkering, or special tools. All I was doing was breaking down the dealer profit part of the equation for some who wants to put a dollar value on their time. I do this calc every time I decide if I'm going to DIY or take it to a shop

As ARD said, by using class or ability to pay as an argument to support a decision is plain stupid and will get similar responses from DIYers 10/10 times. Good day and good grief.
Funny, you are the one who seems "butt hurt" as you put it. Did you forget that you responded to my comment to another member? Who said anything about class? There are other options than the two you mentioned. Re-read YOUR first line.
 

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Just a few more data points from Southern CT:

2011 BMW x5d

At the stealer :

oil service : $289
fuel filter : $280
engine air filter : $180

reset service lights $30
evaluation : $49.95

check engine light diagnostic : $190 (unless covered by warranty or cpo, then it's either 0, or $50 deductbile)
 

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Always ask the dealer for itemized costs for anything they quote you. My local dealer would always say... "We will do a standard scope... $100 to reset the counters, etc". When I was getting warranty service done, I was like whatever. Once the warranty was out and I was footing the bill, turned out that was 100 bucks to hold in the mileage reset for 10 seconds and reset the oil counter. After calling bull****, my oil changes for my previous X5 35d were 125 total, less my BMWCCA discount. I bought DEF at the NAPA store in 2.5 gal containers and filled myself. Caveat Emptor. Be informed, don't be dumb.
 

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Yes - good advice. I've been asking for breakdowns on everything now that I'm out of my primary warranty.

I'll probably do the engine air filter myself as that looks like an easy DIY after getting the part from Amazon Prime.

Oil change is ~$110, Fuel Filter ~$100 at the trusted indy.

Std scope is such bs - they'd be better off charging a little more for the services than making it a separate line item to piss people off.
 

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Current labor rate at one of the S.F. Bay Area's finer BMW dealerships is $225.00/hour. Not a typo.
 

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That's primarily due to the real estate cost in SF, same as paying for gas in SF.
Yes and no. I would agree that paying that rate for a top level tech working on a problem that requires specific training and special equipment could be argued as keeping pace with labor rates in the area. That being said, the guy doing the oil changes and other basic maintenance work is a kid making $20 an hour. With the equipment they have it likely takes 10-15 minutes all in for an oil change (I can do it in about 20 in my garage and I don't have a lift.) In that case a flat fee or a maintenance rate seems more equitable than applying the blanket $225 an hour regardless of the work being done. Last time I asked for oil service price I was quoted $199 plus tax which seems like over $100 for labor. I might pay it if I only had one car, but with four BMW's out of our six vehicles, I do it myself.

I would also suggest that a closer comparison than SF gas price is labor cost for a plumber or other home services. Last time I had a furnace service the hourly rate was $165. Gas is higher mostly due to special local formula and taxes. Hourly rates are high due to cost of living for people providing services.
 

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BMW SF has advertised oil changes in apx $50 - $120 range depending on year and model. Overhead is the driving factor in labor rates anywhere, to stay in business you have to be able to pay your bills and the reason for being in business is to make money so after overhead is profit. You might find BMW SF has some reasonable pricing based on job not hours... http://www.bmwsf.com/value-service all right in line with other BMW dealerships in the area.
 

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For my 2013 X5 Diesel the dealer quoted $390 for Oil and Filter and to top DEF, I think i can get better deal outside. BTW im in Toronto, Canada
 

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BMW SF has advertised oil changes in apx $50 - $120 range depending on year and model. Overhead is the driving factor in labor rates anywhere, to stay in business you have to be able to pay your bills and the reason for being in business is to make money so after overhead is profit. You might find BMW SF has some reasonable pricing based on job not hours... http://www.bmwsf.com/value-service all right in line with other BMW dealerships in the area.
Dealers in Orange County area are offering a 3 year $199 unlimited oil change special. Car has to be 5 years or older and 60k miles or more. They lose money on the oil change and hope to make it back on repairs.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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For my 2013 X5 Diesel the dealer quoted $390 for Oil and Filter and to top DEF, I think i can get better deal outside. BTW im in Toronto, Canada
I say that you should do your own DEF service as the system is too fragile to allow anyone else to touch it. Some say that you should do your own oil service. I let my dealer hold the liability for stripping the oil drain plug threads.
 

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For my 2013 X5 Diesel the dealer quoted $390 for Oil and Filter and to top DEF, I think i can get better deal outside. BTW im in Toronto, Canada
You can do both by yourself. But if oil change is too cumbersome bcs. no appropriate place, etc etc. DEF is definitely easy! Stop at first station where trucks are common or some big box store and get DEF. I usually filled only passive tank to allow system to “exercises itself “ by transferring fluid from passive tank to active tank.


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I say that you should do your own DEF service as the system is too fragile to allow anyone else to touch it. Some say that you should do your own oil service. I let my dealer hold the liability for stripping the oil drain plug threads.
I DIY all DEF fills and oil changes in my 2012 X5 35d and 2014 535dx. I don't let anyone else touch these items.

The oil drain plug in my X5 35d has never been touched during my 7 years of ownership and more than 200k miles of driving. I extract the old oil from the engine through the dipstick tube using a Pela 6000 oil extractor pump. Same with the oil that remains in the oil filter housing which stays hidden in the engine and won't drain out through oil pan drain. The topside oil extractor pump method takes a little longer but does a better job of getting the old oil out of the engine. I gauge that by how much new oil I have to add to bring the oil level exactly to the full mark on the dipstick. I live on a hill and my driveway has a slope to it such that the left rear corner of the engine where the dipstick is located is at the lowest point in the engine. This is perfect for extracting oil through the dipstick tube. When filling the engine with new oil, I first pour oil into the oil filter housing to replace the oil I sucked out earlier and to wet the new filter and ensure everything is primed to guarantee no oil starvation at startup. Then I pour the rest of the new oil in through the valve cover like normal. I put in around 7 liters and then drive down to the local Shell gas station in my neighborhood where the station's lot is level and check the oil level on the dipstick and do the final top off.

The quoted $390 for an oil change and DEF fill sounds about right. The majority of the quoted cost is for the DEF fill and is a total ripoff. DEF fills are so easy to DIY that it's not funny.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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I DIY all DEF fills and oil changes in my 2012 X5 35d and 2014 535dx. I don't let anyone else touch these items.

DEF fills are so easy to DIY that it's not funny.
And DEF is very inexpensive so far.
 
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