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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, been a while since I posted on here.

After diagnosing that the electrical part of the ABS module was the cause for all the instrument panel lights to be lit, we sent out the module for repair. It has already been installed.

Sadly, the worker who removed the module was originally planning on removing the entire thing, hydraulic part included. He left a brake line at the pump loose. When we tried to take it for a test drive the pedal was soft. OK, bleed the brakes we said. After trying to bleed the brakes about twice, we realized it was leaking fluid from the front.

Basically, we unwittingly introduced air into the system. We tightened up the line and made sure there were no other leaks. After going on a short test drive, no lights come on the dash anymore, but still no pressure to rear brakes. Tried bleeding with a vacuum pump, no luck.

I've seen on here that most people use the Motive Power Bleeder with no problems, however thats only if there's no air in the system, correct? Everything I've rear says that when air is introduced into the system you have no choice but to go to the dealer or an indy with an equivalent scanner, as there is no other way to make the ABS pump cycle.

However, there is hope?
If you do get air in the ABS, there is a DIY around the problem. No need for a scan tool to cycle the ABS but please be safe. This will need to be done only if you have bled the brakes but still have a spongy brake pedal. You will need to get to a dirt road or longish dirt driveway. Drive the car on the dirt road and slam on the brakes so the car slides on the dirt. Your ABS system will activate and cycle. Then bleed the brakes again normally. You may have to do this more than once.
Has anyone had luck with this? After doing this procedure will I still have to bleed the brakes with the power bleeder? Any help is much appreciated.
 

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Correct. Once you get air into ABS you need ability do manage ABS module (control internal valves) to bleed it.
I am surprised that your mechanic took that job w/o having one - every time you remove ABS - this is pretty much given.
You can use power bleeder (I use it all the time) and bleed the system w/o problems (most of the time as at times people report issues requiring ABS switching) but I do not touch the ABS (some old fluid is still there but I change is quite often so I don't care that much)
How much fluid did you push through?
You can try to use power bleeder and pump couple liters through the system (and bleeding all wheels making sure that you don't introduce air on wheel valves hoping that it will push all the air out.
And above quoted procedure may work.. definitely worth to try. If not - you know what to do - find mechanic who knows how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So, this vehicle is proof that: 1. Air is a b*tch to get out of the ABS system, and 2. Slamming the brakes on a dirt road DOES cause the ABS to cycle
It took 3 or so separate panicked stops, with at least a 20 minute bleed session in between each, but I have confirmed it works.
Definitely never opening another ABS system without proper knowledge !
FIXED :thumbup:
 

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Ok help me now please I had almost the same problem but my mechanic has the right tools and scanner so he says and I saw him using this scanner to bleed my brakes I can hear the abs pump on but still not getting any pressure out the back wheels I'm getting fluid but no pressure went as far as to buying and pressure pump to push the fluid got all the air out car stops good but the brake pedal is still soft no pressure help me I got over $500 in the brake system and still nothing new master cylinder new fluid new pads only thing we haven't touched is the ABS or like is called on BMW DSC

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app
 

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Question,

I had a brake line corrode and leak for rear brakes and had to replace, no issue, until I went to bleed brakes, and no go, could not get any fluid out other than a little residual in lines, but nothing as to pressure to bleed. So mechanic said master cylinder was bad, replaced, same thing, then I come to learn that with ABS module shutting down valve to read lines as a safety feature, and there is no way to bleed without a brake bleed OBD2 scanner. Having researched these, and having no other option other than to go to dealer, does anyone have any advice on successful scanners for bleeding ABS and resetting valves in ECU. Obviously, having a scanner already, I don't want to buy another just for ABS reset of ECU, so does anyone know if one is able to rent a scanner rather than have to buy another one? After blowing $1,000. on brake lines and new master cylinder, I am looking for less expensive options. Anyone have scanner to rent or sell used? This is on my 03 X5.

Thanks
 

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OBD2 ABS Brake Bleeding Scanner

cant promise this will work..but seems to .. i just put mine in temporary deactivation using it. View attachment 799050
Thanks, but the majority of scanners will erase codes after reading them, but only the upper priced units will actually perform an ABS bleed, so I ordered one and will report back how it works. Better than paying a BMW a few hundred to bleed ABS system which then requires all wheels to be bled, so a couple hours labor is not worth it.

Thanks,
 

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OBD2 ABS Brake Bleeding Scanner

which scanner did you order? just curious
After researching them all for days, came up with Foxwell which was the lowest priced scanner, so will let forum know if it worked as expected when it comes to purging ABS of air after doing a master cylinder replacement, or blowing a rear brake line which happened to me. Autel has one as well, but what shocked me is so few independents have scanner which can perform this function. My mechanic put his $10K Snapon diagnostics on my BMW and it did not have ability to bleed ABS, shocking, and he said maybe his is not up to date being 2016 unit?
 

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Foxwell abs bleeder

Well, ordered FOXWELL Bleeder and it cycles all valves, pre-pump supply runs, return pump runs, seems to be working, but cannot get brakes bled, just front left bled, all the others is just air, so having vacuum bleeder, some say if air got into ABS, which I have no idea what mechanic did when rear brake lines were replaced and he didn't know about not being able to bleed rears without bleeder program, so he may have cracked open ABS and introduced air. So most say you need pressure bleeder, anyone have any ideas, have zero brakes even with new master cylinder which mechanic said I needed.
 
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