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Recently I have been having a parasitic draw on my battery. It kept dying over night and I was unplugging the negative terminal a few times since I needed the car in the morning. Then I noticed It seems to be only happening when I lock the doors, If i leave it unlocked while its parked its fine so i started using it like that for about a week. I was going to get a multi meter and start pulling out the fuses from the alarm system and everything else. Before I could get to that my car died while parked downtown with the doors locked and after attempting to jump start with the help of road side assistance nothing would happen anymore when i turn the key. No sound at all except for the hum from the gas pump as if the car is not even trying to start. I tried opening the doors with the key inside the ignition and there was no door chime anymore hinting that the car doesn't recognize my only master key. It might also be worth nothing that the only key's battery is also dead and does not remote open the doors ever since i bought the car.
Is there any way to reset the anti theft system?
 

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Sounds like it's locked out with a code. The is a way to put an anti theft code in vis the MID. If it's not that then mood thin likely a probkem with the key antenna. The ews is permanently encoded to the key it can't be erased. The coding for remote is a different story and that will get lost with low battery voltage butt can be reprogrammed but the car needs to recognize the key first.

I suspect you may need to have a proper scan tool clear a half dozen codes set from the low battery Nexus things return to normal.




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If you lock the vehicle from the exterior driver's door lock cylinder...does the DWA status LED start flashing slowly like normal (the red clown nose light below the interior rearview mirror)? Or does it flash rapidly for 10 seconds, then slows down...or does it flash in any other fashion or perhaps not at all?

BTW, the remote key operates 3 different systems:
  1. FZV (central locking) | doors, trunk and fuel filler flap door
  2. DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) | doors/trunk/hood/interior motion, and tilt sensor
  3. EWS (immobilizing "drive-a-way-protection) | 2-way communication between the key, the Ring Antenna around the ignition, the EWS control module, and the DME/ECU. They communicate with each other over a 125 KHz AM radio signal. They all (except the ring antenna) have an ISN (individual serial number that must match before the car will start)

If you have the key in the ignition, then you open the door and you don't get a Check Control Warning...that's not indicating that EWS is an issue. The direct connection would be miscommunication or non-communication with the door actuator. And if you were locking the car and the battery was draining...perhaps you have a door actuator problem that is remaining open. And if that's the case...the red LED status light usually blinks fast for 10 seconds when you first lock the car. This could be an issue with DWA or FZV.

 

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