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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to dig for these, nothing comes up in the ETK for our cars. I found them under the E46 M3. There are two empty locations, one of which I intend to use for a Powerlet socket I just installed in the underdash panel. They're Littelfuse MIDI fuses, but Digi-Key and Mouser want me to order 1000 at over $3 each. I wish they came in smaller sizes, but I've installed an in-line mini-ATC fuseholder downstream. I just didn't want to risk blowing one of the existing fuses in the junction point.


50A 61.13.8.365.901 $1.86
80A 61.13.8.365.903 $1.86
 

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I had to dig for these, nothing comes up in the ETK for our cars. I found them under the E46 M3. There are two empty locations, one of which I intend to use for a Powerlet socket I just installed in the underdash panel. They're Littelfuse MIDI fuses, but Digi-Key and Mouser want me to order 1000 at over $3 each. I wish they came in smaller sizes, but I've installed an in-line mini-ATC fuseholder downstream. I just didn't want to risk blowing one of the existing fuses in the junction point.


50A 61.13.8.365.901 $1.86
80A 61.13.8.365.903 $1.86
Should have asked :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Should have asked :).
True, but I've grown accustomed to digging through E46 and E36 sections of the ETK to deal with the parts-bin vehicle. :)

While I have you... for a different project, I want to occupy some empty space in the fusebox. I have the parts, but... there's really no more room to run wires into the cabin through the existing passage (I crammed it full many projects ago). On the cabin side I see what look like break-out covers for additional wiring. But I see nothing on the fuse box side. If I drill, am I just passing through plastic or am I going to also pass through firewall sheet metal? Any idea how much total thickness here (so I can order grommets)?
 

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side fuse box

I remember using the two extra terminal fuse locations for added wiring and I found a pass threw to the under side of the exsiting branch terminal fuse panel location,it was tight But i pulled flexiable conduit for add terminal wiring.I would stay out of the inner side of the front driver side wheel well.
 

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True, but I've grown accustomed to digging through E46 and E36 sections of the ETK to deal with the parts-bin vehicle. :)

While I have you... for a different project, I want to occupy some empty space in the fusebox. I have the parts, but... there's really no more room to run wires into the cabin through the existing passage (I crammed it full many projects ago). On the cabin side I see what look like break-out covers for additional wiring. But I see nothing on the fuse box side. If I drill, am I just passing through plastic or am I going to also pass through firewall sheet metal? Any idea how much total thickness here (so I can order grommets)?
Daniel, I had to do this when I installed the aim control, I used a paddle style drill bit to drill out the knock-outs, ( was afraid of cracking the surrounding plastic.. It gives access to the area that all the wires from the fuse/relay panel route through, Do not drill deep or you risk hitting wires. I used a coat hanger to feed them through. Once the torx bits are taken out that secure the upper section of the fuse panel to the housing you can look down in there.

See the last pic on this post.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=965049&postcount=26

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=955943&postcount=49
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Max, that's exactly the spot I was talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used a uni-bit (step-bit) to do the same.do not bitch the wires as stated!!!!
Fuse box is apart, wires out of the way. That's how I knew there wasn't an equivalent knock-out on the engine bay side. I'll probably use the stepper bit too.

Every time I take the fuse box apart, I curse at the location of the hood release cable relative to the fuse box screw it obstructs.
 

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Every time I take the fuse box apart, I curse at the location of the hood release cable relative to the fuse box screw it obstructs.
Put a dab of super lube on the screws. Pull up the weather strip behind the fuse box.
Use the following tool.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, the problem isn't the screw being hard to turn nor getting to it (have a long shank for the Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver handles). The issue is not damaging the grommet for the hood release cable which taking it out. But thanks for the T-handle picture, that would make it a tiny bit easier. You'd think BMW could have just moved the fuse box screw a bit so it'd be a non-issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I drilled both locations, planning for the future. Silicone grommets.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ron, what do you use to insert the leaf spring connectors into the fuse box? They're pretty tough to get in there, I wound up using right-sized hemostats. I looked through the list of tools in 61 1 150 and didn't fine anything that looked like an insertion tool.

I ordered 10 more leaf spring contacts (the 440 ones) today, and 5 of the 50A slow-blow fuses.
 

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Ron, what do you use to insert the leaf spring connectors into the fuse box?
Fingers.
Been a long time ago, but I seem to remember a white strip lock on each fuse bank.
Look on the TIS under group 61 and it shows connector unlocks. Not sure if the fuse blocks are part of it. I'll check later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fingers.
Been a long time ago, but I seem to remember a white strip lock on each fuse bank.
Look on the TIS under group 61 and it shows connector unlocks. Not sure if the fuse blocks are part of it. I'll check later today.
The TIS shows a locking slide, but doesn't show how to get the sections out of the top half of the fuse box to access the slide. I'm working pretty blind since the harnesses don't let the top half of the box come up very far, and trying not to break any tabs on the fusebox this close to homecoming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fuse work done. I put a 50A fuse in position 109. Since I couldn't find a part number for the flat jumper that goes from the fuse to the output, I just fabricated one out of aluminum (may replace with copper later). From the output I ran into the fuse box with AWG12, and split to three newly populated fuse locations: 17, 40 and 42. Output of those fuses come back into the cabin and go to a small 5-position barrier strip VHB-taped to the fusebox plastic that's in the cabin. Out of one of those goes to the Powerlet socket I just installed in the underdash panel as far to the left as possible. Another is going to relays on a new microcontroller board I'll install after Homecoming. Third is a spare (glad I did this all at once since I hate dealing with the fuse box and I did it hot... not recommended, but no problems encountered). The two remaining locations on the barrier strip will be hot-in-accessory and hot-in-run-and-start, probably controlled by the microcontroller board. I've grown tired of tapping wires, hence the barrier strip. I also installed a second barrier strip for ground, just forward of the ground point behind the driver kickpanel.

Barrier strip is McMaster-Carr 7527K45. Jumpers for it are 7527K59. I bought the flat cover for it, but it's junk (hence the simple garolite cover). VHB tape is McMaster-Carr 75935A29, which is thick enough to permit using cable ties to hold the garolite cover to the barrier strip. SAE 2-pole connector lets me easily disconnect the Powerlet socket when removing the underdash panel.
 
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