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19,585 Miles
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NA Z4 M Coupe numbers

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/z4mnumbers.jpg">


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<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/z4nonmcount.jpg">
 

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19,585 Miles
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Z4-M Charcoal filter

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130357&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130358&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=130359&stc=1">
 

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The knights who say Ni!
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456 Posts
MRoadster Alarm w/Motion Detector Install Instructions

These instructions are for alarm kit #65 73 0 309 944 w/motion detector. This is for Z4 roadsters 10/03 and later, and for M Roadsters MY 2006 and later. The instructions themselves are part #01 29 0 393 087. You can find more details on the different Z4 alarm kits at this thread. To get around the 500K attachment limit, I have split the instructions into 2 pdfs.
 

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19,585 Miles
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Front Lighting

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134071&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=134072&stc=1">
 

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19,585 Miles
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Z4 Exterior mirror glass instructions

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=136466&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=136467&stc=1">

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Following compliments of Palantirion:

First the mirrors. Step 1 is to slide this tab to the left to unlock the mirror (major PITA :mad:):


The mirror pulls off with its retaining clip and then you unscrew three screws to remove the motor. Also disconnect the two wires and connector:


Another view, also showing how to tilt the mirror so you can unscrew the screw holding the plastic cover in place:


Take another four screws out and release two small tabs inside the mirror housing and you can slide it off.


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<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/5116040mirrorhousing-1.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/5116040mirrorhousing-2.jpg">
 

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Z4 water pump replacement (e85, m54)

OK..here is how you really change the water pump on a Z4....(E85, m54 motor, mine is a 2.5) I have done this procedure, and all you will need are one water pump with o-ring, two m6x25mm bolts, a gallon of anti-freeze, simple hand tools, a few blocks of wood, a rolling floor jack, and jack stands. It is a good time to replace the belts, so get both of them. Yes, you do have to move the engine..a little.
1. Jack up the car on one side, place a smaller jackstand under the car where the front stabalizer is bolted to the frame. You just need to get the car up enough to remove the front plastic splashpan. Now remove the splashpan, grip it firmly, and toss it at the nearest BMW engineer to show your gratitude for designing a car that has a sheet metal support with webing placed directly infront of the water pump, thereby making it necessary to move the engine in order to remove the water pump, even though there is enough room infront of the sheet metal support to be able to desing it with a slight 1" dip towards the front of the car thereby providing enough clearance to simply remove the water pump unimpeded. Now, jack up the car a little higher, and remove your small jackstand and place a big jackstand (now that you have the clearance) under the car. place the jack on the other side, and jack it up enough to place another large jackstand under the car at the point where the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) bolts to the frame. Now place a rolling floorjack under the engine and place a block of wood between the jack and the oilpan at the front of the engine. Make sure this block of wood is long enough to support the load across the entire width of the oilpan, in order to srpead the weight of the engine across as much of the oilpan as possible, for obvious reasons. You just need to jack it up to meet the oilpan, don't go any higher yet. The reason you do this now is because the underside of the engine will soon become wet with anti-freeze, making everything slippery.
2. Now remove the belt for the A/C compressor (torx bit needed for tensioner)
3. Remove the top plastic (fanshroud?) cover and loosen but don't remove the bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. 16mm socket for the tensioner.
4. Now remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Tap the pulley gently to get it off. It is made of plastic, so be careful. Remove the 10mm nuts on the water pump. Now install your m6x25mm bolts into the threaded holes on the water pump. Tighten them, and this will remove the water pump from the engine block. The coolant will spill out, but it won't be a lot. Now remove the upper radiator hose only where it connects to the engine by prying the metal clip. Push it up out of the way against the oil filter housing. You can remove the hose before removing the pump, but I did not because it would otherwise make everything wet that I still have to work on.
5. Now remove the nut at the left engine mount. I think it is a 16mm, might have been 15mm.
6. Jack up the engine slowly, but only go up to the point where the engine mounting bolt is just at the lip of the engine mount, where it almost clears the engine mount, but no further. (I would not want to have to line that thing up upon installation. Besides, it is not necessary to go that far.) You should now be able to pull out the water pump going in the direction of the passenger side.
Ta Da! You've now saved your self a lot of money. Now install the new water pump by lubricating the new o-ring with a little ant-freeze on your hand, and install the water pump. Put the car back together. Pour in some anti-freeze. With the car and the heater running, bleed the air out of the cooling system. (With the bleeder screw located next to the resevior cap.) But keep the old water pump. You will need this during your next trip to Germany, when you get the opportunity to throw it at the head of a BMW z4 engineer. This will make them think! It would be different if these water pumps did not fail prematurely.
Hope this helps!
 

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19,585 Miles
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BMW Antifreeze: 82 14 1 467 704 $19.25 retail

BMW antifreeze ia a long term rated coolant, unless you have repairs.

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=149584&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=149585&stc=1">
 

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19,585 Miles
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BMW Faults: MSS70-2006 MZ4

Will add to them as it goes.

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=150479&stc=1">
<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=150558&stc=1">
 

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11,141 Posts
Winter storage

Following is from a S54 bulletin.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/fluids00-4.jpg">

Following is from the BMW Operating Fluids manual group00.

Gas tank mention was interesting.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/fluids00-1.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/fluids00-2.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/fluids00-3.jpg">
 

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Investigative Tinkerer
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5,011 Posts
Beyond the trip home from the dealer (with the container bouncing around in the trunk) shaking the jug had never occured to me.

Thanks!

Glad to see you have your connection (laptop) back.
 

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19,585 Miles
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11,141 Posts
CDV install and clutch bleed

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/cdvz4-1.jpg">


<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/cdvz4-3.jpg">

1.3mm: Smaller yet versus the 1.7mm we are used to seeing.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/cdvz4-6.jpg">

Tools I used.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/cdvz4-7.jpg">

Also used a second clamp on the reservoir clutch line output.
No leaks this way at all if you don't shake the hose.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/cdvz4-8.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/clutchhose-6.jpg">

Some other lock valves:


<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/lockvalve-1.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/lockvalve-2.jpg">


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Clutch Bleed:

The E36 and E36/7-8 (Z3) use the same basic clutch pieces parts.
For some reason the E36/7-8 (Z3) cars engagement point is lower than the E36. On the E36/7-8 (Z3), the engagement point lowers with heat.
From checking out the E36/7-8 (Z3), developing the front shifting arm bushings, I know that the temperature in the tunnel area exceeds 200 degrees F. The stock front shifting arm bushing in my M coupe turned to mush in less than 5000 miles.
The clutch slave cylinder is in the tunnel area.
Bleeding the clutch raises the engagement point on some E36/7-8's.
I purchased the bleed tool to see what the result is using it. Will be checking this out later this year.
For the ingineer fluid folks, how would the engagement point change with air in the system versus no air in the system with heat?
In other words, is it a bleed the air out thing?

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/clutchbleed-1.jpg">
<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/clutchbleed-2.jpg">
<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/clutchbleed-3.jpg">
<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/clutchbleed-4.jpg">
 

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19,585 Miles
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11,141 Posts
Z4-M NA Passenger side motor mount bracket problem

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233491

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247988

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272236

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294159

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390962&highlight

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4067789


If you want to use BMW stuff MotorSport Z4 uses the following:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384257&highlight=motorsport

Screw 07 11 9 913 653 $0.47r
Screw 07 11 9 913 673 $0.62r
Washer 07 11 9 903 078 $0.35r

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/motormountbracket4.jpg">

Bulletin:

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/sib220109Z4motorbracket.jpg">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=231822&stc=1">

Angle torque:

This is used on the connecting rod bolts and other things.

You torque the screw and then turn it degrees mentioned in the TIS torque area for what your doing.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_angle_torque.html

Retail is $191.37 now.

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/angletorquetool.jpg">

Motor mount bracket screws:

I had the front reinforcement plate out to clean the power steering fluid.

Good time to do the motor bracket screws.
Will do the drivers side when I remove the air collector.

I used the Motorsport 10.9 screws and washers.
Torqued all four at 24Nm with the following Sears tools.

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234137&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234138&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234139&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234140&stc=1">

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234141&stc=1">

Torque:

<img src="http://bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257589&stc=1">
 

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Operating Fluids Group 11

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-1.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-2.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-3.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-4.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-5.jpg">

<img src="http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/operatingfluids11-6.jpg">
 
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