Check fuses first, especially F57 and F82 in the glovebox. Then test the starter solenoid signal with a multimeter. If it gets 12V when cranking, the starter is bad. If not, the issue is upstream: likely the clutch switch, brake switch (for starter relay activation), or a faulty ignition switch. ISTA will help diagnose the interlock circuits and immobilizer.

 

Check battery cables. You should not be able to twist terminals at battery. Also try giving the starter a good whack with a 2x4, this often temporarily "fixes" a sticky solenoid. Ignition switches do fail on these cars but are relatively cheap and easy to replace. To test, try wiggling the key while turning it to start. If you can get the starter to crank, even for an instant, the ignition switch is faulty.

 

Thanks for the help. Turns out that it is an intermittent error--I tried many times and then let car roll forward about 2 feet and tried again. Started right up. Drove it home and parked. Would not restart.

My thinking is that it could be the ignition switch, intermittent sensor, or starter in the process of dying. Battery cables are tight. I'll test the B+ at solenoid today when I can get some help--a little hard to push in clutch, brake, turn key and hold a multimeter under hood simultaneously.

Tried diagnosing with ISTA but could not get it to talk to car. Think I will need to get a fresh download and try again, as my files may have gotten corrupted somewhere in the past years.

 

Well, that was an exercise in frustration. My daughter helped me out pushing pedals and turning keys while I went to measure voltages at the starter. Oddly enough, it started every single time she turned the key. I'll try again to get it to fail, but successive good starts feel more like an electrical issue than a starter issue. Agree?

 

Sure sounds like it.