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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving my car this afternoon after not having it for a few days, and heard a new sound... an occassional muted slight clunking noise on the right side. It seemed to have went away before I had a chance to investigate fully, so I didn't give it much thought.

It turns out, the right rear sway mount is missing... the rubber bushing was still there, but that was it. Spotted thanks to the sharp-eyes over at RPI. I've never touched the mounts up to this point, nor have anyone else.

So just as a FYI, check the allen bolts to make sure they're tight when you get a chance.

I called the local dealership... they'll have it for me on Tuesday w/ the bolts.
 

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I had the same issue a couple of months back. It took the dealer two days to figured it out. The re-torque the rear sway bar and subframe bolt. Make sure you check the subframe bolts too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Yes, part# 3 & 4... except that part#s have been superseded. Or, at least, that's what the parts guy told me.

Stabilizer Support: 33 55 6 780 707 retail $2.46
I've been told the old part is plastic. The new part is metal. I wire-brushed it, and shot it flat black before remounting.

Fllister-Head Screw: 07 11 9 905 070 retail $.38
10mm Hex now intead of cap screw. Didn't notice class. Make sure you use thread-lock. Easy job, takes 10min.

I checked the driver's side, and they were tight. Also noticed plenty of left-over thread-lock. Don't know if there's been history of only one side, or both. But mine happened to the passenger side.
 

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19,585 Miles
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Yes, part# 3 & 4... except that part#s have been superseded. Or, at least, that's what the parts guy told me.

Stabilizer Support: 33 55 6 780 707 retail $2.46
I've been told the old part is plastic. The new part is metal. I wire-brushed it, and shot it flat black before remounting.

Fllister-Head Screw: 07 11 9 905 070 retail $.38
10mm Hex now intead of cap screw. Didn't notice class. Make sure you use thread-lock. Easy job, takes 10min.

I checked the driver's side, and they were tight. Also noticed plenty of left-over thread-lock. Don't know if there's been history of only one side, or both. But mine happened to the passenger side.
33 55 1 096 697 $2.40r was ceded by 33 55 6 7 780 707 $2.46r. They are exchangeable. 697 weighs more than 707.

07 11 9 905 070 is not used on the Z4M. Maybe they (dealer) thought it was better. M8x20-10.9 ZNS3.

07 11 9 901 023 $0.53r M8x16 ZNS was ceded by 07 11 9 904 101 M8x16-8.8 ZNS3 $0.29r. They are not exchangeable. Looks like the change was for the no chrome coating ZNS3.
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I checked the driver's side, and they were tight. Also noticed plenty of left-over thread-lock. Don't know if there's been history of only one side, or both. But mine happened to the passenger side.
Just looked at mine. The blue lines (means they torqued it) were in line on all four bolts.
Torque value is 22 Nm.
 

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Well timed post ... I had heard a muted clunk from the rear passenger side once a few weeks ago when turning left at 5-8 mph into my driveway. I visually checked for anything obvious in there but came back with nothing ... did not happen since so forgot about it.

Ordered the new bolts and mounts from Tischer today and will change them out once I get them in.
 

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Well timed post ... I had heard a muted clunk from the rear passenger side once a few weeks ago when turning left at 5-8 mph into my driveway. I visually checked for anything obvious in there but came back with nothing ... did not happen since so forgot about it.

Ordered the new bolts and mounts from Tischer today and will change them out once I get them in.
Are your bolts loose?
 

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S54=Living on the Edge
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Are your bolts loose?
Don't think so, but since I heard the clunk once and there is a superceded part I figured I may as well be OCD about it esp since I am going to Pocono next weekend.
 

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Don't think so, but since I heard the clunk once and there is a superceded part I figured I may as well be OCD about it esp since I am going to Pocono next weekend.
The bolt is the same except for the zinc coating. The brackets are exchangeable. What you should do is safety wire them.
 

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The bolt is the same except for the zinc coating. The brackets are exchangeable. What you should do is safety wire them.
I am not equipped for that ... at least I don't think I am. Never done it before.

What tools do I need besides a drill and fine bits? Do I need any special type of "wire" ...
 

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Tight

Prepping my car for the track tomorrow so checked the rear sway-bar bracket bolts and they are all tight (22N*m).
The 6mm female Allen head bolt is somewhat unusual and the top ones are a PITA to get at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
My 2006 brackets are metal not plastic.
Was the flange of the screw serrated?



Just took a magnet to the factory driver's side... it is metal as well for my '06. Painted black. As for the bolts... I don't recall them being clearly serrated, but I don't think they were smooth either. When I pick up the bolts next week, I'll let you know. Regardless though, I think serrated is the way to go. Heck, if you really wanted to, I think you can actually get a long enough bolt, and put a lock nut on the other side.
 

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Prepping my car for the track tomorrow so checked the rear sway-bar bracket bolts and they are all tight (22N*m).
The 6mm female Allen head bolt is somewhat unusual and the top ones are a PITA to get at.
Prepping my car for Buttonwillow next weekend, and two of the sway-bar bracket bolts were loose. Top one on the driver's side bracket, and bottom one on the passenger side bracket. The top driver's side one is just barely tight, the passenger bottom one is completely lose (the bolt had turned about 60 degrees looking at the blue paint mark on the bolt).

I replaced the allen head bolts with regular 8.8 grade hex bolt of the same size and slathered on some blue loctite.

On a completely unrelated topic, what I thought was going to be a 20 minute job turned into a 3 hour nightmare. I bought some washers/shim and a longer bolt from Turner Motorsports to add a little extra negative camber up front to preserve my tires, and on the very last bolt I managed to cross-thread the bolt. Made about 2 full turns when I realized it was cross-threaded, backed it out but the damage was already done. Took another 2 hours and 30 minutes and some serious HACK ingenuity, and copious amount of red loctite but managed to get the thing threaded back in right and torqued it down to 77ft-lbs. Hopefully no permeneant damage is done.

On another completely unrelated topic, visually inspected the engine mount bolts and all appear to be in good order. Since the engine mount and engine mount bolts are shared with the E46 M3, I wonder if the ones with the engine mount problems are built within a small window where the wrong hardware or a particularly careless assembly worker worked on the car. If we can get the VINs of the cars with the engine mount issues, maybe we can prove/dispel this engine mount problem.
 
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