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Bingo!! I may have solved the misfire and lean codes P0171, P0174, P0300

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#21 · (Edited)
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Discussion starter · #22 ·
#23 ·
teklord69 said:
Whats your mileage? Take it out and check..dont wait until it stars rattling. Taking it out is a 5 minute task.
Click to expand...
I just turned 167k. Think I'm due?
 
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#25 ·
He,he, he...warned you gals and guys that the goddamn plastic valve starts self destructing at around 90 k miles...
I had no codes, but I searched many threads and forums, and the P0304 & P0305 seemed associated with the DISA when stuck. I had a faint whirring when I pulled it out, the pin was halfway out....and the flapper had a bit of a "free" movement. It's 200 bux vs rebuilding the engine (sooner or later, depending on your luck).
The 528 and 540 folks don't have to worry. They don't have that piece of super-engineering attached to the intake manifold.
 
#26 · (Edited)
teklord69 said:
I saw a video somewhere on how to test the vacuum on the valve. Move the flapper to the closed position, then block the vacuum hole with your finger. Release the flapper and it should not open all the way. It will stop in the middle position and wont open fully until you let go of your finger.
Click to expand...
Is this test in situ or in vitro?

teklord69 said:
I think that once its taken out, that gasket is no loger a tight seal.
Click to expand...
The lack of an o-ring part number (apparently) affects only some E39s (the M54, for sure and I don't know what others).

There are those who have found alternative o-rings:
- Where to get just the M54 DISA valve o-ring (1)

doru said:
The 528 and 540 folks don't have to worry. They don't have that piece of super-engineering attached to the intake manifold.
Click to expand...
Ah, so the only E39 affected is the M54 E39, right?

teklord69 said:
I wouldn't recommend rebuilding the DISA or doing a "band-aid" fix.
Click to expand...
Nobody would disagree. The stakes are just too high. The engine is toast when the DISA fails. Yes, BMW is at fault; they make a garbage part; but your only choice is to replace old garbage with new garbage. That's why it makes no sense to pay two hundred dollars for BMW garbage - but it does make sense to replace BMW garbage.

I just wonder if we can set up a deal with a sponsor and agree to buy a certain number from them for an agreed-upon price.

doru said:
warned you ... that the goddamn plastic valve starts self destructing at around 90 k miles... the P0304 & P0305 seemed associated with the DISA when stuck.
Click to expand...


I think we need a nice step-by-step DIY for replacing the DISA.

It's problematic without the right o-ring though, so, the steps would need to be (roughly):

a) Obtain the right o-ring
b) Remove the DISA
c) Test the DISA
d) Replace or re-insert as needed

Image

 
#27 ·
Fudman said:
But I totally agree that this is something that should be monitored by every owner as it appears a failing DISA valve can cause catostrophic engine damage. You are doing all of us a service by highlighting this failure mode and the possible consequences of it. :thumbup: Thanx! :roundel:
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+1

Thanks.
 
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#28 · (Edited)
bluebee said:
After all this, I think we should see if we can get a group buy from one of our sponsors for a percentage off the ridiculous price for the DISA if we agree to buy enough from the sponsor.

Any ideas how to organize that?
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I'm game to go in on the "group purchase" if someone tells me how to replace mine. I drive a 2002 530i (with packages). I'm around 93k and only had a PVC hose issue thus far. This being the e39 forum I assume this is an e39 issue. I am UNSURE if the year of the e39 matters or just the milege.

Some items I don't mind driving until failure. This isn't one of them.

I recommend you collect a count of people who are willing to buy the part. If you can set up a seller to quote us a discount for, lets say, 10 buyers we all send in the money to the seller by X date (X = bulk purchase date). We all then receive our part within 10 days after X date. Regardless of how soon we send in the money we all have to wait for the bulk purchase date.

If the discount + shipping isn't $180 or less it may not be worth the effort. I spend more than $20 for dinner and a glass of wine on a regular basis so saving $10 or $15 on a $200 purchase doesn't do much for me. That being said I would still do it to help out others.

Just a thought.
 
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#29 ·
Guess it was about 4 years ago mine was going south--Rajaie was over at the house and pointed the problem out to me. With the engine at idle you could lean over and place your left ear on the part and could hear it rattle. When you gave it a little gas the part would sound like all he%%ll was breaking loose inside. I removed the part and gutted the flapper and the housing around the flapper and then put it back on the engine. I drove it that way for about a week until the new one arrived. I could tell there was a little less tq on bottom end but it didn't make me feel unsafe and the car performed well out on the highway--no bucking or stumbling and decided that it doesn't or didn't hurt the engine as long as I didn't feel like going wide open--don't do that much anymore as I get closer to 60---dang I'm starting to feel old
 
#31 ·
The M52tu has a DISA valve. My car is a '99 528iT
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
New DISA valve installed.

Ok, I installed the new DISA valve and cleared my codes, and I am a happy camper. Right away, the idle was alot smoother and not as high. Throttle response is much better as well as the low end torque. Gone is the sluggishness of the car. Took it to the freeway ramp on manual mode and shifted near redline.. I can feel the "kick" of the DISA opening up around 4500-5000 RPM. And for some reason my shifting is alot smoother. So far no codes have come back.

The install took me less then 10 minutes. You just need two tools (flat head screwdriver and T40 torx head):

Image


Unplug MAF connector:
Image


The bottom screw that holds the DISA needs to be removed. No need to remove airbox (I hate removing that thing), just remove the MAF and the hose attached to it. Once you do that it is easy to remove the bottom T40 torx screw. Don't drop it! otherwise this 10 minute job becomes 30 minutes.
Image


Image


Remove the DISA electrical connector. There is a metal pin behind the connector that you need to push in before pulling out the wire.
Image


Now remove the top T40 Torx screw:
Image


Remove the old DISA valve GENTLY! If your pieces are loose, it may drop into the intake..be careful.
Image


Pic of old DISA and new one. Looks the same but the part #s are different.
Image


Before installing the new DISA, clean the opening really well so that the seal will be nice and tight.
Image


Install the new DISA slowly..Be careful not to get the new o-ring dirty or scraped.
Image


That's it. reconnect the DISA electrical connector. Tighten the two T40 torx screws. Replace the MAF and related hoses. Clear your codes and test drive the car.
 

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#33 ·
teklord69 said:
Ok, I installed the new DISA valve and cleared my codes, and I am a happy camper. Right away, the idle was alot smoother and not as high. Throttle response is much better as well as the low end torque. Gone is the sluggishness of the car. Took it to the freeway ramp on manual mode and shifted near redline.. I can feel the "kick" of the DISA opening up around 4500-5000 RPM. And for some reason my shifting is alot smoother. So far no codes have come back.

The install took me less then 10 minutes. You just need two tools (flat head screwdriver and T40 torx head):

Image


Unplug MAF connector:
Image


The bottom screw that holds the DISA needs to be removed. No need to remove airbox (I hate removing that thing), just remove the MAF and the hose attached to it. Once you do that it is easy to remove the bottom T40 torx screw. Don't drop it! otherwise this 10 minute job becomes 30 minutes.
Image


Image


Remove the DISA electrical connector. There is a metal pin behind the connector that you need to push in before pulling out the wire.
Image


Now remove the top T40 Torx screw:
Image


Remove the old DISA valve GENTLY! If your pieces are loose, it may drop into the intake..be careful.
Image


Pic of old DISA and new one. Looks the same but the part #s are different.
Image


Before installing the new DISA, clean the opening really well so that the seal will be nice and tight.
Image


Install the new DISA slowly..Be careful not to get the new o-ring dirty or scraped.
Image


That's it. reconnect the DISA electrical connector. Tighten the two T40 torx screws. Replace the MAF and related hoses. Clear your codes and test drive the car.
Click to expand...
You forgot to unhook the battery????
 
#34 ·
agent15 said:
I will ask my favorite source for Genuine BMW parts if there is any possibility of them doing a quantity discount.
Click to expand...
Great. Please let us know the outcome.

It amazes me to see such a simple $25 gadget cost over $200. I have bought alternators for less than this thing. Oh well. I knew it going into the purchase and still like the car a lot.
 
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#36 ·
Great DIY bro. Nice work!! I wonder if the DISA is more prone to going bad in colder climates?
 
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#37 ·
teklord69 said:
Ok, I installed the new DISA valve
Click to expand...
Very nice!

Thanks for pitching in to help the team!

Note: If we all did a DIY every time we did a job, even a simple one, then there would be a lot more efficient owners out there, including me!

For me, this gives me the courage to tackle the job myself!

I'll let others hone the DIY so that any missed or supplemental steps are outlined, but, for now, I've added it to the bestlinks as the DISA DIY so that the leverage will be to others in the future.

- How do install an M54 DISA DIY (1)
 
#38 · (Edited)
Mack said:
Great DIY bro. Nice work!! I wonder if the DISA is more prone to going bad in colder climates?
Click to expand...
Mack, that piece of plastic superengineering, is the same plastic as the colling bits and pieces. Has nothing to do with cold or warm climate, but the hot/cold cycle of the engine. And it's very close to the engine.

Speaking of plastic embrittlement: The air ducts (part #7 in the diagram) will start also going South. Especially the clips that attche to the cowl.
The first one to go was the right (passenger side) one - last year. This weekend, the left one hit the dust (driver side). If not changed, you will fog up the windshield driving through the wash stations (especially when it's colder outside - in winter). But, you will also draw dirty unfiltered air. And they are not cheap. Ordered the 2nd one, and it's on it's way...
Image
 
#39 ·
Yeah mine are in rough shape too. Discolored and hardened. Damn another item for the "to-do" list. Only reason I asked about colder climates for the DISA is that I'm at 167k miles now and to my knowledge it's never been replaced. In reading this and the other threads though I'm fairly confident it's worth replacing at this point. I'll probably order from TMS this week. How much were the intake cowls??
 
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#40 ·
agent15 said:
I will ask my favorite source for Genuine BMW parts if there is any possibility of them doing a quantity discount.
Click to expand...
I called and spoke to Chris, and the best price they offer on the part is what's listed on their website - $195. That's still better than $260, or even $218, but as many of us have experienced firsthand sometimes the extra cost is a necessary trade-off to get our cars back on the road ASAP.
 
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