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ABS issue

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5.1K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  markjord  
#1 ·
I know there are numerous posts on the subject of "DSC-ABS-Brake lights on", but I am concerned that the problem is bigger/smaller now that I have done some of the recommended remedies. I have not done them all, but wanted to get some input before I swipe my credit card again.

I won't bore you with a long discussion on what you already know...
  1. DSC-ABS-Brake lights stay on
  2. Full functionality of speedometer, odometer and cruise control
  3. P0500 fault code - front and rear, passenger side abs sensors bad (when codes were read it said right front and rear; is this the same as passenger side)

So far I have...

  1. Rebuilt ABS module
  2. Changed front, passenger-side ABS sensor


Reason for asking for help before changing rear sensor...


I am not an idiot. I have read on this and other forums that in order for the problem to be a rear sensor I would have to have lost functionality of one the items above. I have already ordered a rear sensor to install, but wanted other opinions before installing.

After installing the rebuilt ABS module (original to my car; did not need to be coded), the fault code went away, but the lights remained.

After installing the front-passenger ABS sensor the DSC light remained, but the Brake and ABS lights went away for about .5 mile and then returned. I thought the lights went off briefly, simply because I disconnected the sensor today and it sort of reset itself, but I have disconnected it before since installing the ABS module, and they have never turned off; even after unhooking the battery for hours, these lights always stay on. Also, before putting the wheels back on I connected the new sensor to drivers-side, reconnected the old sensor to the passenger-side and the lights remained on, as they usually do. So, I thought I must have the correct sensor, or at least one of them.

Questions...
  1. Am I all wrong about the rear ABS sensors and what they control?
  2. Should I just change all sensors and go from there?
  3. Is it possible that the problem is more than just the ABS sensors and ABS module? (I've read that the front wheel bearings could be an issue.)
  4. Why did the DSC light remain when the others went out, albeit for a short period?
  5. Is there a particular sensor that is specific to the DSC?
  6. Is this truly just a stealership item?
  7. Am I really an idiot, who's to stubborn to shell out the cash?

Thanks in advance for your help. Feel free to point me to a post or thread that has the information.
 
#2 ·
Is it possible that the rebuilt module is still failing? :tsk:
 
#8 · (Edited)
Well, I installed the passenger rear sensor and driver side sensors as well, for good measure, but I am having the same symptoms. Maybe the car has an enlarged prostate, because it is p...ing me off.

I am sending the module back to rebuilder for another check. The car is worse than a woman, "I'm in love with a b$@#h I can't stand."

Also, for the short period that the ABS and Brake lights are off (DSC light still on, constantly) it feels as if the ABS system tries to work when I brake, but feels and sounds like there is crunching at times. The front and rear rotors and pads only have 800 miles on them.
 
#9 ·
I had just sent mine back to BBA Reman again and they said it tested fine. I know it can't be one of the rear sensors, because my speedo and cruise work, so either it is one of the front sensors or there is something still wrong with the module.

I will state this, after I did receive it back the first time, it was fine for a day. It would be intermittent before the lights became permanently on again. Sometime when I started my car with my foot on the brake, it would push hard back up and making a grinding noise. The lights often would stay off or not light up right away too. I don't think the wheel sensors would have anything do with this.
 
#13 ·
It's back in with all lights shining bright :mad: I am getting really annoyed and don't want to waste more money figuring this out. I really do not think it is a speed sensors (I don't have floor jacks to remove wheels and check). If i get one of those ebay carsoft programs, will it accurately tell me what the problem is?
 
#10 ·
You should have checked out the old ABS sensors to make sure they're good or bad before wasting money in replacing all of them. It's easy to check. With the connector disconnected, use a digital volt meter and switch to the "diode" check position, a good sensor would be reading around 1.8V, a bad sensor would have no reading. My ABS/DSC/Brake lights are on, and using the procedure above, I verified that 3 senors are good and one is bad. I just ordered the front senor online and will see if that fix the problem.
 
#16 ·
I doubt if they will refund your money. They will probably agree to fix it until you lose patients, or they decided that it is not repairable, forcing you to purchase one of their truly remanufactured units that they know works (+ core costs). At the end of the day you will probably end up paying the $400-$600 that a lot of people are paying for new ones. It will have to be recoded, of course...$$$$$$.

I drove my mother's '97 528i today. She is 73 years old, likes BMWs, but doesn't know how beautiful her car really is. When something breaks she takes it to the dealer and pays them to fix - she's probably paid for her 3 times already. However, it was nice driving in a car with no warning lights, no wobbles, no squeaks, no codes... just a really solid car. She makes me sick.