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Cooling system overhaul tips and tricks (E39)

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#21 ·
Hi, I turned the serpentine belt inside-out and forced it between the crank pulley and the waterpump pulley with the grooves properly engaged on both pullies, pushing very hard on a very large flat bladed screwdriver between them from the power steering reservoir side (passenger side on my RHD car here in New Zealand) to lock the two pullies together while tugging on the crude tool to shock the nut into moving.

BUT it may be that it only worked for me because my shattered pump (with at least six roller bearings completely spat out!) tended to lock up with side-loading.

The nut wasn't very tight though, so the belt trick MAY work on a healthy one... can't hurt to try I guess :)

All the best!!
Geoff.
 
#22 ·
Radiator air bleed?

Reading all this I can see I am going to need to do a complete cooling overhaul.

I have a 2000 540i

I had a lead from the bottom of the expansion tank and a low level coolant message. I change the tank and sensor on the bottom. The tank has lots of broken parts inside and the sensor was melted and leaking.

All seemed well with the test drive but then after only 1.5 miles yesterday the temp needle pegs. I turn around and the needle returns to 12oclock and slowly creeps up. When I stop the engine is still relatively cool.

I am not sure I bled air properly. Could this be causing the issue? It did not seem like I replaced enough radiator fluid.

Thanks,
Mitch
 
#23 ·
I have to change the radiator on my year 2000 e39 530i sport, its an Automatic. Does anyone know if I HAVE to undo the transmission fluid cooler hoses from the transmission oil cooler to give more access to remove the radiator, or can I just remove the radiator leaving all the transmission pipes etc alone????

Thanks

Jez
 
#24 ·
rad failure at 71.5k mi - '01 540i

Looks like I'll be joining the club. My '01 540i with 71,500mi has been giving me an occasional low-coolant warnings for a few weeks now. Every time I checked the level in the expansion tank, the indicator has been bobbing up - so I figured the sensor was bad. When I looked at it closer this weekend, I noticed a small hairline fracture near the radiator upper hose neck. It's been slowly leaking out fluid! So my theory now is that I'm probably borderline low on coolant, as the warning message only goes off once after 1 min of driving, and then goes off, as the coolant volume increases.

I'm ordering parts soon, and going to replace the rad, expansion tank, and all the hoses. I'm probably gonna wait with the water pump and the belts, and replace them at next years coolant change.

--Rob

'01 540i
'07 X3
 
#25 ·
ARX3 said:
Looks like I'll be joining the club. My '01 540i with 71,500mi has been giving me an occasional low-coolant warnings for a few weeks now. Every time I checked the level in the expansion tank, the indicator has been bobbing up - so I figured the sensor was bad. When I looked at it closer this weekend, I noticed a small hairline fracture near the radiator upper hose neck. It's been slowly leaking out fluid! So my theory now is that I'm probably borderline low on coolant, as the warning message only goes off once after 1 min of driving, and then goes off, as the coolant volume increases.

I'm ordering parts soon, and going to replace the rad, expansion tank, and all the hoses. I'm probably gonna wait with the water pump and the belts, and replace them at next years coolant change.

--Rob

'01 540i
'07 X3
Click to expand...
FWIW...
Do EVERYTHING! My water pump self distructed at 100k - no idea if it was original or not as I've only had the car since 89k. There was absolutely no warning whatsoever. I'd never put even a drop of water into the car since i got it, no need. But a shudder was felt on the x-way and immediately the red light came on for no charging so I figured I lost the serpentine belt. When I pulled over and looked the belt was wrapped around everything and the fan was totally wobbling around but still (luckily) attached to the pump shaft. The bearings were scattered everywhere from it though.

I then tried to just replace the pump but one thing after another has lead me to replace everything. Just do it once!:mad:

A big tip... get that emissions pipe off - you can get the pump in there but its just too difficult to line it up correctly as you've other pipes it needs to fit on in addition to lining up the bolt holes.
 
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#26 ·
i have a e39 528i with an inline 6 and was wondering how to bleed the cooling system i am new to the BMW world of DIY mechanics i can do most of the work with just a little instruction and help i am changing the water pump and thermostat also so any info and pics would be a great help and appreciation :thumbup:
 
#27 ·
Another bit the dust...

I've been trying to track down a clunking noise at low rpm's, suspecting the water pump for a while. Yesterday it got really bad, so on the way home I stopped at the dealer and got a new water pump, belt, pulley, etc... (I just replaced the fan clutch and blades last october when I replaced the alternator, so I figured they're still good). After I left the dealer, I was getting onto the freeway when I noticed my temp sensor going up fast. I pulled off to the shoulder, popped the hood and saw that I had shredded my pump had seized, shredding the belt and wrapping it around the clutch. The bearings had separated and I could see rust and corrossion around the balls :( Anyway... towed it home and am currently enjoying a post pump beer. Thanks for all the hints and help, guys!
 
#28 ·
FYI, this might be unique on my car (cuz it isn't confirmed on RealOEM) but... those of you asking how to take the 32mm fan clutch nut off: The pulley uses two sizes of bolts to hold it on, one set is short and black, the other is gold and long. Gold @ 12 & 6, black @ 3 & 9. You can loosen the gold bolts to give you a place to use a universal fan clutch wrench (rented one at Checker for a $50 deposit, free on return). If I had been thinking, I'd have taken pictures. Beats the hell out of beating the hell out of your fan clutch nut / wp bearings with a sledge and static friction.
 
#29 ·
Cost of cooling system overhaul

Guys, anyone have an idea of what a fair price for cn90s cooling overhaul on a 2003 530i at a bmw mechanic (non dealer)? I'm trying to get an idea of how much extra I need to pay to guarantee I don't screw up my car trying it myself!
 
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#33 ·
Is there a beltdrive layout for an '02 530iA? I couldn't find one here using the search function.
 
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#34 ·
kimokk said:
Is there a beltdrive layout for an '02 530iA? I couldn't find one here using the search function.
Click to expand...
To the best of my knowledge the belt layout is the same as above which is like my 540i. BTW I just changed my water pump out and would like to thank those here who've put the time in tell us what to expect.

I had absolutely no issue getting my fan off. However mine was still intact as I had caught it early. All I did was put the 32mm wrench on the nut and then take a hammer and strike the wrench end about 7 times firmly. The pulley would turn some but the force of the strike broke it free and that was without using WD40 or the like. The fan shouldn't be torqued down at all since the direction the belt travels constantly tightens it. Another note: be careful to separate the pipes behind the pump without pulling them out from where that attach in the rear. I hear they can be a bitch to get back in.

Anyway thanks again for all the write ups folks! For my next trick I think I'm going to tackle my clutch!!!!:yikes:
 
#35 ·
I had the great luck of being on the side of I-75 in Atlanta last night during a snowstorm because something went wrong with my coolant system. While driving I saw steam escaping out the back of the car. At first it seemed like just exhaust escaping in cold weather but then it increased in seconds to a cloud of steam. I quickly darted over to the side of the road and turned off the car. Then, when I checked under the hood I saw a splitting belt and a bit of melting rubber around the waterpump/fan clutch. So, I was pretty sure it was the Waterpump, but on hindsight I question the fan clutch too.

But neither bothered me as much as the dealership-recommended tow truck driver who decided it was best to DRIVE my car onto the flatbed. I was in shock, but realized it was like screaming at the chef before he's done making your meal. You could make it worse. So I drove quietly with him to the dealership biting my lip the whole time and thinking "at least he only has to coast it down off the back now." Oh no, he decided once he had it lowered that it was blocking another car, so HE STARTS IT UP AGAIN AND DRIVES ROUND THE CORNER TO A PARKING SPOT.

At this point I was furious and laid into him while the front desk assistants from the now-closed BMW service area watched. I made certain of this because I needed witnesses. He was originally rude, then 10 minutes later called to apologize. I'm a fair man, so right now I am going to describe to the service area what he did, but not yet go into detail on how he acted. But if anything else was impacted by this I'm gonna go nuts on this guy and the dealership for recommending him.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Resurrecting this thread for advice specific to the waterpump. Planning on completing my overhaul with the water pump, belts and hoses in the next couple of weeks. Was curious, my indy just did the coolant flush in February 2010 and since I've never done a flush would prefer to leave that piece of the puzzle alone.

So, I know that once I pull the waterpump out, coolant will come gushing out, but can I just put the new pump in, fill and bleed the system to top off the coolant and be done with it, or will I need to do a complete system flush as called for in the DIY?
 
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#38 ·
When people refer to changing the "pulleys" which pulleys are they talking about exactly? Is it good practice to change the tensioner pulleys or inspect them and change them only if there is play or something wrong with them?

Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Look at the layout.

A pulley is basically bearing covered with a plastic wheel on the outside.
Sometimes a pulley comes with the tensioner (such as mechanical tensioner).

Cars with Hydraulic tensioners: tensioner is sold separately from pulley.

Have a look at aioros DIY as well.
 
#40 · (Edited)
I just overhauled my entire cooling system on my 2001 530i. It went pretty well...no leaks thus far. For this car, I noted some differences from cn90's most excellent write-up:

Regarding the reservoir and its small hose that attaches to the opposite side of the radiator: I found attaching this hose to the reservoir first was significantly easier than any other method. I didn't have the room to attach the hose to the reservoir (with it attached to the radiator first) because the length of the hose was too short and the shroud was in the way. I used a stick to keep the shroud raised up to allow me to attach the other end of the hose to the radiator second...MUCH EASIER. :)

Also, pick up two "BMW" hose clamps for the reservoir hose. The ones we typically get at the auto/hardware store just can't take what I feel is the required torque to cinch these hoses down good. I went to my dealer and it took him some time to locate the screw type that was roughly the same size as the original crimp style that came from the factory. Here is the part number: 07 12 9 952 104 from the fuel filter diagram (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT53&mospid=47587&btnr=13_0918&hg=13&fg=10). Yeah, they were a tad pricey at the dealer at around $3 each but worth it for no leaks, right?! :thumbup:

I did not bother filling the system with new fluid until everything was done and completed...it was just easier. I was able to put 11.1 quarts of fluid in relatively easily. I filled the system VERY SLOWLY through the bleeder screw hole on the upper radiator hose...agonizingly slowly. I was hoping if I did this that I wouldn't trap air. I left the reservoir cap and its bleeder screw there open the whole time and air was bubbling out as I slowly filled. After that, it was a matter of running the engine, heater on high set to 90F, and then keep checking the fluid level off and on and after a cycle or two of this over a couple hours, I had all 11.1 quarts into the system. I suggest you keep careful track of the amount so that you are sure.

Finally, attached is a pic of a cheap plumber's tool that will aid you in knocking the fan bolt loose in 10 s...along with a 1 1/4" wrench if you don't have a 32 mm one. :D
 

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