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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-20-2011, 12:27 PM
number6photo number6photo is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 BMW 530i
E39 remote not working, fuse 53 keeps blowing

I had this same problem a year or two ago, and based on advice from the forum, I unplugged the fuel door motor. The problem was gone ever since, but came back again this week. The fuse blows whenever I lock/unlock using the remote. All the door locks and deck lid lock seem to work properly when I insert the key in the door lock cylinder and manually lock or unlock the system, so I don't think it's a shorted lock motor.

I checked the wiring harness going from the trunk into the deck lid, and the wires/insulation inside the boot appear to be in great shape.

Any other advice on where to check for common chafed wires or shorted components? There was an old post in this forum that showed only a portion of where Fuse 53 connects to other components. if you have a complete wiring diagram of everything that gets fed from fuse 53, I can track down the shorted wire and/or component.

Thanks!

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2001 530i
5-speed manual
Sport/Premium pkg
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  #2  
Old 08-20-2011, 02:34 PM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Mein Auto: 540/6, S60 Volvo, Tribeca
Fuse 53 feeds the following.
Rear lid motor relay K70
Central locking & fuel door relay K121
Window motor relay K90
Diversity amp or antenna amp.

It's probably your fuel door lock cylinder above the battery. Unplug it and see if F53 stops blowing.
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2011, 06:57 PM
number6photo number6photo is offline
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It was the fuel door actuator, but ...

I found the black box with the blue and white wires above the battery. I felt around the back of the black box and it seemed to have a rod going toward the fuel door, so I figured it must be it. I unplugged the connectort, replaced the fuse, and that fixed it.

Thanks JimLev!
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  #4  
Old 08-21-2011, 06:02 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by number6photo View Post
I had this same problem a year or two ago, and based on advice from the forum, I unplugged the fuel door motor. The problem was gone ever since, but came back again this week. ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by number6photo View Post
I found the black box with the blue and white wires ... I unplugged the connector, replaced the fuse, and that fixed it.
Hmmm, so what was this "fuel door motor" that you disconnected a year ago? From what you wrote in the orig post...I assumed that you had already disconnected the electrical harness from the fuel door actuator (fuel door motor?).

If you were confused as to what was actually the fuel door actuator in the suggestions from the forum...perhaps others are too...and we need to be more descriptive of what to actually check and disconnect when this issue arises.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2011, 07:50 AM
number6photo number6photo is offline
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Confusion

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Hmmm, so what was this "fuel door motor" that you disconnected a year ago? From what you wrote in the orig post...I assumed that you had already disconnected the electrical harness from the fuel door actuator (fuel door motor?).

If you were confused as to what was actually the fuel door actuator in the suggestions from the forum...perhaps others are too...and we need to be more descriptive of what to actually check and disconnect when this issue arises.
That's the weird thing. When I initially read JimLev's reply, I was going to write back that I had already done that a few years ago. But, I decided to go out and verify what I had done to see if some wires had chafed or something. As I approached my car, I realized that I couldn't remember exactly what I had done (!). That's embarrassing and little bit scary but anyway, I seem to recall doing something in a difficult-to-reach area; certainly not as easy as the fuel door actuator's electrical connector above the battery. I also vaguely recall doing the procedure to avoid having to pull the mechanical back-up fuel door release line in the trunk every time I wanted to fill up. I know I was following some advice I got a one of the Internet forums, but when I searched for that post, I couldn't find it.

Regarding the confusion to locate and unplug the correct device, I must say I find it difficult to get anything useful from the search feature on the forum sites. If you type in something too specific, you get nothing. If you type in something like "fuel door" to open up the search, you end up with 100's of hits and many of them have nothing to do with my vehicle's issue. Last night when trying to figure where the fuel door actuator connector was, I couldn't quickly find a good description of the fuel door lock actuator connector (e.g., two wire connector plugged into a black box the size of a small fist, located above the battery, blue and white wires.), which is why I mentioned it in my initial reply. A photo would have been even better, so I'm posting this description with a photo in hopes of helping others down the road.



Thanks, again.

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  #6  
Old 08-21-2011, 08:43 AM
JimLev JimLev is online now
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Your back in business. Sometimes they are intermittant so maybe last time you got lucky when it started working again.
Mine hasn't died yet, can you do us a favor and open yours up so we can see what's inside that shorts out?
Thanks.
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  #7  
Old 08-21-2011, 09:14 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by number6photo View Post
T... Last night when trying to figure where the fuel door actuator connector was, I couldn't quickly find a good description of the fuel door lock actuator connector (e.g., two wire connector plugged into a black box the size of a small fist, located above the battery, blue and white wires.), which is why I mentioned it in my initial reply. A photo would have been even better, so I'm posting this description with a photo in hopes of helping others down the road.



Thanks, again.

NoVI Photo
I'll sum it my comments up with...thanks for the EXCELLENT follow up info & pic.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #8  
Old 03-13-2013, 05:41 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 automatic
For the crosslinked record, this was posted today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by moosewks View Post
Since i have used the forum for a long while, i thought i would "give back" some of my recent experiences..

1) CLS: Central Locking System failure.. Diagnostics showed clear, so the tech's thought all my keys (3x) were bad due to the age and faulty batteries.. so, i paid for a nice new key ($250/ea)..
2) Discovered that the EWS module, Xmitter, and new+old keys are not the issue.. F53 was blown (CLS Fuse) and thus killed remote entry, trunk operations, etc.. after a closer look, the fuel door flap lock motor was the issue (~$43 Rock Auto) and would blow the fuse.. say what? i totally forgot about this little gimmic and should have known better!

Fuel door lock is on the passenger side batter compartment.. pls check operation next time you have an apparently confounded CLS operation problem.. this situation seems plain enough as written, but baffled a few highly competent techs for a bit..
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