DIY: Windshield Washer RESERVOIR Leak Fix

cn90 · Sep 26, 2009

My Windshield Washer RESERVOIR Leaks a bit at the Filler Neck (where the Tubing joins the Reservoir), so I decided to freshen things a bit! If your Windshield Washer has been leaking, the good news is all this can be fixed for approx. $10.

Expanding Rivets x 3: PN: 51478166992 ---> $0.66/each
Grommet w/ Strainer: PN: 61667006063 ---> $4.24/each
Grommet: PN: 61311369343 ---> $3.13/each

It can leak at the:
- Filler Neck (where it enters the Reservoir)
- Windshield Motor
- Level Sensor

Time: 1 hour.

PROCEDURE:

1. Passenger's Front Wheel removed, car on Jackstand.

2. Remove the Plastic Wheel Liner. I did it the "lazy" way and lift it up just enough to do the job.
- 8-mm screws hold the Plastic Liner.
- The three (3) "Expanding Rivets", don't even try to save the old rivets, they break when coming out, using a flat screwdriver and gently lift it out, and cut with a pair of snippers.

3. Using a Flat Screwdriver, gently lift the Windshield Fluid Motor UPWARD (Yellow arrow).

4. The Level Sensor comes STRAIGHT out (Yellow arrow).

5. Remove the two (2) 10-mm Nuts holding the Reservoir and remove it for cleaning. My fine mesh screen broke from the rubber grommet and was inside the Reservoir. Easy to remove it. Then rinse the inside the Reservoir and empty all water.

6. Tips when re-installing new parts:
- Tiny amount of grease on the Filler Neck for a good seal. Factory has no zip ties. Mine leaks right here, so after a bit of grease (very thin smear) and 2 zip ties, it is nice and tight, no leak!
- Tiny amount of grease (very thin smear) on both grommets.
- Tiny amount of grease for the Expanding Rivets makes it easy as well.

Congrats on a job well-done and now you have a leak-free Reservoir!!!

Darkflame808 · Sep 26, 2009

cn90 said:
- The three (3) "Expanding Rivets", don't even try to save the old rivets, they break when coming out, using a flat screwdriver and gently lift it out, and cut with a pair of snippers.

Um I am not sure what type of expanding rivets you have but when I did my regulator replacement you just take a thumb tack and press the center rivet in, It will fall into the side fairing and you can remove the rivet. When I popped out all three they fell into the little |_/
dip. it's the part where the side lower fairing meets the side upper fairing.

Anyway I just used my finger to pull it out. Three == pieces and three =0 pieces. They pull out without force once you pop them out and you don't need to buy new ones.

cn90 · Sep 28, 2009

jimcash from bimmerboard said:
- About those expansion rivets. It is easy to push the small centre pin through the rivet and then the outer part easily lifts out and and can be reused. The only "trick" is to find the centre pins after you remove the liner - they should be sitting along the inside of the fender.
But yes - not a bad idea to have some spares just in case.

- There is another source of leaking that only occurs when you fill the reservoir to the top of the fill tube. On the top left of the reservoir tank there is a breather valve. It allows air to escape when filing and also allows air back in as the fluid is used. There is a tiny float inside it that closed to prevent fluid escaping when you fully fill the tank.
If you get some fluid on the floor just after filling the tank then this is probably the source of the leak - the float is not sealing. Best to replace that breather float unit....

Follow-up,

I am quoting Jim Cash's reply from bimmerboard as above.

1. Yes, the Expanding Rivets can be re-used, just gently tap the center inward and it will fall down. Just retrieve them when the plastic liner is lifted up.

2. The "Breather Valve" sits on TOP of the Reservoir, if this "Breather Valve" fails, you basically have 2 options:
a. Replace "Breather Valve".

b. Or if you are too busy and have no time to replace the Breather Valve, then LEARN a new habit and do not pour Windshield Washer Fluid above the Blue Arrow and you should be fine. From the Engine Compartment, this is down the filler neck where it is just about to enter the Engine Bay:

87vert · Oct 4, 2009

Man, I gotta do this, having to put in washer fluid like every 3 weeks to get the warning off the dash is killing me. LOL

hopefully we get a nice weekend before it starts snowing.

Thanks for the DIY.

cn90 · Oct 5, 2009

I am not sure where your leak is, but since you invest on time and effort, you may as well replace the "Breather Valve" (I did not). Just a thought.

handyman john · Nov 20, 2009

finding the leak

your best bet is to follow the instructions above and remove the tire and wheel well liner and look for the leak. I would guess that the breather is the problem less than 10% of the time. The grommets are notoriously bad.

clemshirlee · Dec 5, 2009

Thanks to C90

What a great post. Had I not found it I doubt I would have had the nerve or motivation to fix my 2001 525i windshield washer which stopped spraying. My wife was pretty impressed that I could fix the car because I am not mechanically inclined. Everything was just as you said and the pictures "paint a thousand words". Autozone had the replacement motor with a grommet for $13 but the level sensor grommet had to be ordered. Don't know for sure but I am guessing my local mechanic would have charged $100 for the job that didn't take me very long. Many thanks.

Kel · Dec 11, 2009

Thank you for great thread ! It seems that the Reservoir container is rarely the problem. But it seems not too many places carry it. What would be cheapest / best place to buy it and the parts mentioned in this thread?

cn90 · Dec 12, 2009

Check the local dealer. These are not expensive enough to shop around online.

Another option is "Crown Auto" or "Crown BMW", basically a BWM dealer selling parts online.
For small inexpesive parts, go to local BMW dealer because you don't have to pay shipping!

tspeed · Mar 29, 2010

quick fix when leak is from breather valve, but don't have a new replacement valve

Thanks cn90 for yet another excellent DIY.

I had the puddles after filling the resevoir and this time I followed this post to
locate the leak as I filled it with water.
I saw right away the leak from the breather valve.

Assuming the leaks were due to bad rubber grommets, I didn't order a new breather valve but just two new rubber grommets.
So I decided to take the valve apart (used needle nose pliers to remove the float) and added a little support to the tired rubber seal by placing an O-ring (ID 3/8", OD 1/4", CS 1/16") around the base of the red rubber seal.

I tested this valve by slipping on the grommet and place it over a small water bottle (perfect fit) and confirmed proper action of the float by gently squeezing the bottle (a strong squeeze definitely closed the valve but I don't think there is that much pressure present.)

I'll see how long the O-ring support works in the float before I order a new breather valve.

cn90 · Apr 6, 2010

Yep, 1+.
Always test the system before buttoning it back up. This means:
- Pour w/s fluid until it reaches the top of the neck....there should be no leak.
- Operate the Pump (ask someone else to do it for you) and observe the pump for leak.

tspeed said:
...I'll see how long the O-ring support works in the float before I order a new breather valve.

Hey tspeed,
Is your "red neck" engineering thingy holding up nicely...

?

cn90 · Mar 29, 2010

Good Job! I didn't know the breather valve can be "rebuilt". But for $2.43 I'd go for a new breather valve:
PN: 61608255245 $2.43 ---> Part #5:

I took this pic from another website so people can see the breather valve sitting on top of the reservoir:

tspeed · Mar 29, 2010

Thanks, but for my 04/1998 build date, that part is, 61668361370, and jumps to $33 from local dealer and had to be ordered.
So I was stuck using the old part...it's not a true fix but works for now.

cn90 · Mar 29, 2010

The breather valve is BMW engineer's overkill thingy!
Many many cars (Honda, Toyota) w/s reservoir has no breather valve.
The filler neck (where you fill fluid) is itself a breather valve.
Worst case scenario, if you don't want to spend $33, then simple use a rubber cap and cap it shut and see what happens.

PS: The main purpose of the breather valve, as the name suggests, is let's say your reservoir is empty.
You fill with washer fluid, the filler neck is now filled with fluid, the the breather valve allows air to escape.
Once fluid reaches the top, the floater floats up and prevents fluid loss.
Conceptually it is like the toilet tank floater idea (not the same but similar in concept).

So if you block the breather valve with a rubber cap, when you filled with new fluid, air will instead come out of the filler neck.
You will see bubbles coming up the filler neck, no big deal anyway.
Again, this device (breather valve) is over-engineered!

tspeed · Mar 29, 2010

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. If this leaked again, I would plug it w/ a rubber stopper and put a pin hole or two on the plastic filler cap and fill it to couple of inches from top.

I guess those BMW engineers had too much time on their hands after perfecting the cup holders.

cn90 · Mar 29, 2010

Actually the fill cap already has a hole in there I think. Plus it is not a perfect cap so air can always get around it anyway, so no need to make a hole in the cap.

BMW engineers design cars over beer and Bratwurst!

Kel · Mar 30, 2010

On either the E39 or 60 can the leak problem be fixed without taking the tire off?

topgear454 · Mar 31, 2010

Perhaps, but it would be a royal pain in the ass. Just jack the thing up and remove the wheel. Spend 5 minuets and save 30.

Kel · Apr 6, 2010

CN--Thank you for your super posts. Would you happen to know:
1--E39 and E60 have same grommets?
2--Do you usually need both the grommets ending 6063 with strainer and 94423 are needed , or usually just one of them?
3--If it is only the grommet to replace : should repair shop charge 30 minutes, or 45 or 60?

cn90 · Apr 6, 2010

I don't know about E60.
Use realoem.com to cross-check part numbers.

If you can change tire, you can do this except that you also need a jackstand to be safe.

They can charge one hour because: jacking up, tire removal, remove fender liner.
Take the reservoir to rinse it (not needed but since you are there, you may as well rinse it).
Then-re-install.

Not that hard if you want to do this.

mnepitjr · Apr 6, 2010

Thanks for the help on this. I did this repair to my 02' this past week. Make sure before you button everyting back up that you don't have another leak. I had replaced all mine per this write up and thought I should make sure I don't have another leak. Sure enough, I did. My washer pump was cracked causing fluid to drip out of it.

87vert · Aug 3, 2010

I wanted to do this fix this past weekend but the dealer did not have the parts I needed. So I ordered them, they came in today. Grand total of 6.16 after my BMWCCA discount. Will do this this weekend. Hopefully now I won't have to listen to the beep everything I start the car telling me I need washer fluid. LOL.

borderchris · Aug 3, 2010

Make sure you do a test pump prior to bolting everything back together- I did this job 3 times before I figured out that the leak was coming from the side breather of the fluid pump itself... :tsk:

87vert · Aug 9, 2010

My filler hose actually had a crack in it. Mine is also different as it goes inside of the tank as opposed to outside of the neck so a zip tie would not do any good. I wrapped it in tape and it helped stop the leak. It is leak free once it gets below that pipe though.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DT43&mospid=47584&btnr=61_0951&hg=61&fg=45

Any idea what #4 is? and how do I buy the hose? Is it part of #3?

emPoWaH · May 22, 2011

Sounds like what I have... when I try to refill the reservoir, I get a puddle underneath the front bumper (as opposed to behind the front wheel). No low-fluid light, so I assume the reservoir itself is full, but nothing comes out of the nozzles either. I'll try some tape...

bmw7833 · Aug 10, 2010

Bookmarked!

cdawg246 · May 23, 2011

awesome nice write up and pics--i have to do the same repair cause im tired of seeing the warning of low windshield fluid--thanks again bimmerfest

bluebee · May 23, 2011

cdawg246 said:
im tired of seeing the warning of low windshield fluid

Me too!
- Pre-winter inspection of my 2002 windshield washer system

DIYs like these are just the right-shaped tuit to give me courage to tackle these types of jobs!

I just wish cn90 had a 2002 525i as I never know how 'different' his components are from mine.

cn90 · Nov 10, 2011

Update,

My Windshield Washer Pump is dead. Ordered new VDO pump online for $20.
Will also replace the grommet that sits below the Windshield Washer Pump.

Now, a separate issue is the leak out of the "Breather Valve".
I think I have the same problem as "tspeed". Whenever I fill fluid to the neck, it slowly settles down at the wheel well level.
So I think some fluid is leaking out the breather valve (PN 61668361370; $25 at BMW dealer).

The Volvo engineer is smarter: the filler neck in the Volvo enters the very top of the reservoir, thus no need for this stupid "Breather Valve".
If you look at the E39 reservoir (1st pic above), the filler tube enters the reservoir in the middle, so when you fill fluid, air exits the "Breather Valve" until fluid builds up, and the floater rises and seals it up. The problem is the red rubber seal (see "tspeed" pic) goes bad with time.

In theory I can replace "Breather Valve", but since this is more-or-less a useless piece of junk, I will not spend $25 for this part, which is a waste of money.
I will modify it so I can fill washer fluid all the way to the top of the filler tube w/o leak.
This is my plan: run a rubber hose from the "Breather Valve" nipple and bring it all the way along the filler tube into the engine compartment.
This way air can still exit and I can still fill fluid all the way up to the neck (at the filler cap).

PS: I will take a few update pictures this weekend when I do this project!

cn90 · Nov 13, 2011

I finally had time to replace my washer pump.

- I ordered "VDO" pump online, about $20. It is a direct fit.

- As already mentioned, I used a very very tiny amount of grease on the fittings (rubber grommet or tubing). Just make sure no grease gets inside the tubing itself!

- I replaced the following items:
1. Washer Pump ($20 online for VDO, dealer sells this for $55!).
2. Grommet for washer pump ($2 at dealer)
3. Grommet for breather valve ($2 at dealer)

4. My breather valve has a very very slow leak (read on), the BMW dealer wants $25 for this useless breather valve, which is not a very good design to start with, so I elected to keep my breather valve but improvised the vent using Vinyl Tubing (I.D. = 5/16", $2 at hardware store).

-----------

1. Gather the stuff: note that in order to remove the breather valve, you need to remove the two (2) 10-mm plastic nuts to tilt the reservoir forward.
- Fit the Vinyl Tubing over the breather valve, zip tie it.
- Install new grommet first, then the breather valve.

2. Option A: route the Vinyl Tubing to the engine compartment.
- However Vinyl Tubing is rated to about 160-180F, engine compartment temp is usually in the same range 160-180F.
So this may not be a good place to route the tubing if you are concerned about Vinyl Tubing melting under heat of the summer.

- Note that I used a "Plastic Trim Screw" (used for Interior Trim work in car, this is a generic part from local autoparts store).
Then I zip tie it. The screw allows air to vent but keep dirt from entering the Vinyl Tubing.

Notice that after 10 minutes, washer fluid enters the Vinyl Tubing (my breather valve has a very very slow leak):

3. Option B: route the Vinyl Tubing to the area behind the Fender Plastic Liner.
- When looking upward I noticed 2 drain areas: 1 rectangular (rubber), and 1 round (metal). The rectangular is probably drain from cabin filter area. The round drain is probably from the sunroof itself.

- Anyway, note where I zip ties the Vinyl Tubing.
- Note also that I place the Tubing in the groove next to the rectangular drain. It fits perfectly in there.
- Just make sure when you replace the Fender Plastic Liner, the Vinyl Tubing sits correctly in the groove (stay away from the screw location!).

That is all, now I can fill my washer fluid way to the top of the neck!

pfoto · Jul 13, 2012

Washer Pump Issues With E39 Touring Wagon

cn90 said:
I finally had time to replace my washer pump.

The instructions and photos posted here are very clear and accurate, at least it was what I thought until I actually started the installation on my E39 Touring Wagon. I went ahead and bought all the parts required as indicated so that I could do the job all in one session but I got a big surprise. I discovered I needed more parts.

If you are having washer pump issues with an E39 Touring Wagon, your washer reservoir will look slightly larger than shown in the photos posted and it can contain up to 3 identical washer motors rather than just one. The center washer motor is normally for the main front windshield and is located similar to the photos shown, the 2nd motor located to the right side of reservoir is for the rear hatch windshield if you have this option, and the third motor would be located on the left side if you have a headlight washers. Before you order the parts for your wagon make sure to double check all your washer motors and seals because you may need to replace them all, if you have the extra money I would anyway especially on an older car. Also keep on mind that the hoses attached to the washer motors get dried and brittle over time so you to be real careful when replacing the washer motors.

The over all replacement procedures on the E39 Touring Wagon are generally the same as described in the instructions posted, the only difference is that you may have extra extra motors and seals to replace.

pfoto · May 18, 2012

I have a '99 528IT (E39) that leaks all of the windshield washer fluid just about as fast as I try filling it. I have not investigated the reservoir system yet but before I try pulling back the Fender Plastic Liner, I am assuming the leak must be at it's lowest point of the reservoir to completely drain. Is it possible for the bottle itself could be cracked, any comments or suggestions?

Thanks!

cn90 · May 18, 2012

My advice is: since you are "already there", change everything mentioned in this DIY.
From washer pump to grommets etc. Do all the stuff mentioned so you don't have to come back and revisit this area.

Why do I say this even if your pump works fine? My washer pump went out (after 13 years/120K miles) when I needed it the most (muddy condition, barely saw anything out of the windshield). This almost got me into an accident. The washer pump is a critical device during bad weather!

So, if you are not in hurry, order the VDO pump online for $20.
The grommets can come from dealer.
Once you have all the items, do them all.
Do not forget to remove the Fill Tubing and apply a tiny smear of grease + zip tie it.

DIY: Windshield Washer RESERVOIR Leak Fix

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