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E39 ABS Module, what if one does not code the VIN

145K views 134 replies 43 participants last post by  Windle Poones  
#1 ·
I am contemplating replacing the ABS module to get rid of the trifecta lights. I saw Bluebee's post on the module. The question that wasn't asnwered on the post was if one doesn't program the VIN or calibrate the steering angle, then what? Will the speedo and odometer still work?
 
#5 · (Edited)
The question that wasn't asnwered on the post was if one doesn't program the VIN or calibrate the steering angle, then what? Will the speedo and odometer still work?
For the steering angle, BlackBMW had his checked, and adjusted, trickyrickyrica found documentation it needs to be checked; however to confuse matters, 540iman says the steering angle (yaw) sensor does not need to be adjusted if you didn't replace it, and, well, almost nobody gets their steering angle adjusted after simply rebuilding their ABS module ... so, I'd "assume" it doesn't need to be checked despite the indications to the contrary.

However, it seems everyone who gets a different ABS module than their original DOES get it recoded. That's fine, as I'd to that also.

But I too am curious: Why does the ABS module need recoding (what happens if we don't recode it)?

I suspect the rebuilders know the answer so, I'd ask the next person who sends the ABS module in to be rebuilt ask them; or better yet, the next time someone buys a rebuilt or new module, ask the parts supplier and let us know!
 
#7 ·
I've replaced sensors and a rebuilt abs module
Not good. There are about 20 things that can cause the lights to go on, although most seem to find the ABS module (roughly 80% of the time) or the sensors (roughly 10% of the time) are the culprit.

Since the module is a rebuilt module, and since there is really no good test we have for the ABS module, you might wish to doublecheck the sensor checks (even though you replaced three of them, it could be in wires leading to the sensors).

There are 6 tests of the sensors, but, mainly the first test (DMM) should suffice. Were you able to run that test on all four sensors? (It only takes about five or ten minutes if you have a thin wire and a multimeter.)

If it's not the 4 sensors, their wires, or the ABS control module, you have to look at the other twenty or so components. Yuck. For your sake, I hope it's the sensor wires.
 
#8 ·
I believe I said the yaw sensor can fail and may need to be replaced just like a speed sensor. You should be able to get a new yaw damn close compared to the old one, so *if* your yaw is the culprit, you can usually tell from the dirt or discoloration nearly exactly where yours was before and be o.k. If you do not recode a new module, I do not believe your codes will clear and therefore your error lights will still be on, but your speedo may very well work.
 
#9 ·
I personally doubt it has anything to do with steering calibration or yaw sensors. The car drives just fine without the ABS module in the car. Without the ABS module, the three lights come on and the speedo and other items related to speed does not work (like auto door lock, odometer, cruise, etc).

And if it has to do with coding the VIN (so someone doesn't steal it and hawk it??), how long does it take to type in 20 digits??
 
#11 ·
other items related to speed does not work (like auto door lock)
THAT explains why my door locks suddenly stopped automatically locking on me!

Many have noted the fuel gauge, odometer, tripmeter, transmission, etc. are related to the ABS ... but you're the first person to mention the connection between ABS and automatic door locking that I'm aware of.

I even had opened a post a few weeks ago thanking God my automatic door locks stopped locking on me. I didn't realize what made it come back, but, of course, it was me putting my ABS module back in the E39!
 
#10 ·
I've read somewhere that if you don't code your VIN into the module, it won't "activate" at all = the light (ABS/ASC) won't disappear, until you have it coded. Supposedly it's to prevent people from putting a module in the car, that it might not be compatible with, which could become dangerous.

I'm sorry I can't provide any links to support my claim, but I read it somewhere back when I dug through a lot of material because I needed to find out if replacing the module required coding - Yes I also had a ABS/ASC problem at one point and exchanging the sensor didn't help because it was the magnetic ring in the hub that was broken lol... I was convinced it was the module.
 
#13 ·
Yes I also had a ABS/ASC problem at one point and exchanging the sensor didn't help because it was the magnetic ring in the hub that was broken lol...
Is the magnetic ring in the hub visible or inspectible? I would like to confirm/eliminate that as the source of my ABS troubles. Myself and another board member started having ABS problems as soon as we installed new front Hamburg Technic bearings sourced from Turner Motorsports (F A G have been out of stock or short supply). I'm wondering these are defective. I don't have the equipment to check for signal from the sensor while spinning the wheel.
 
#15 · (Edited)
ABS and brake lights went off, but DSC is still on
Check your DSC button?

BTW, I found a very nice 740iL DSC/ABS DIY here for cross reference.

With his ABS control module off the BMW, Magnum observed the following:

  • No Speedometer
  • SES with code P0500 <=== he got same bogus error that caused me to erroneously fail my California SMOG inspection!
  • No ABS
  • No DSC [Traction Control]
  • No GPS for the Navi
  • No Mileage was Calculated
  • No Trip Mileage Meter
  • No Fuel Consumption 1 or 2
  • No Auto Lock
  • No Speed Sensitive Radio
  • No Cruise Control
  • The Temp Gauge Read 31* - 33* [even though it was much warmer than that]
  • The Brakes Were Extremely Mushy
  • The Steering Was Really "Loose"
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#19 ·
Just to throw my 2 cents in, I had the instument cluster trifecta also with no speedo, mpg,or obc functions. I sent unit out to BBA it was attempted to be repaired but came back no good. I reinstalled it while awaiting a salvage yard unit and found obc speedo and mpg working now! abs and dsc still no good. Later I recieved my "new" unit which was 002 instead onf my 001 part number. I installed it in the parking lot. 200ft later PRESO! The triangle flashed two times and everything functions perfectly. No coding of any sort.I have a post that is moved into electronics now but if anyone wants my old ABS unit or pump, pm me.
 
#20 ·
everything functions perfectly. No coding of any sort..
Since we can't seem to find anyone who actually required the coding, the evidence is mounting that we really don't need the recoding after putting in a new (new to the car) ABS module.

Time will tell though ... please keep us informed.
 
#23 ·
Over $200 is a joke. $95 would be what I'd consider opening negotiations.
It's 20 min of work, max. They calibrate the steering and yaw sensors, and send you on your way, as I understand it. Coding is never worth more than 1 hr labour. Anyone who tells you anything else is BS-ing you.
 
#24 ·
Currently, I have traction control and ABS lights on. They've been on for a while. Finally decided to bite the dust and send in my module. My speedometer and mpg guage would go out a lot and pretty much altogether. Just got my unit back last Saturday and installed it. Speedometer works and everything else work, but both lights are still on. Called ModuleMaster this AM to let them know. Waiting to hear back what they want me to do. Crossing my fingers this unit can still be repaired.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Interesting discussion here!

My 535i also got the dreaded trifecta problem this weekend. Everything speed related was dead or behaving erratically. No GPS, odo, trip, speedometer, consumption, auto doorlocks, cruise control. Servotronic steering went up and down.

I went to my local BMW techie and he hooked up a diagnostic computer which indicated the rear left wheelsensor was producing erratic pulses. He tried to reset the error but got a "fault condition still present" message. He ordered a new wheel sensor which will be replaced later this week. When I stepped back into the car and started the engine the DSC, ABS and Brake light were still orange but after driving a few yards they went off and everything was immediately back to normal and no problems all day. I will still have the faulty sensor replaced and hope I don't need a new DSC/ABS controller.

What I don't understand about the design of this system is that it obviously needs 4 wheel sensors for ABS/DSC to function properly but that all other systems apparently are denpending on the impulse signal from the rear left wheel only. Even if one sensor fails there are 3 signals left to keep the rest of the car working properly but there is no failover system in this design..

Thanks for all the valuable info here!
 
#26 ·
Everything speed related was dead or behaving erratically.
This seems DIFFERENT than most of what I've read about the ABS trifecta. Most of us have one or more of the various items dead, but not ALL of them (except when we totally remove our Abs control module).

a diagnostic computer ... indicated the rear left wheelsensor was producing erratic pulses.
Very often (like almost always), a bad ABS unit shows up in diagnostic results as a bad wheel sensor (many of us have reported this, including myself). In many of those cases, there is nothing wrong with the sensor (as you'll soon find out if this holds for you).

So, we've found a BETTER test is to run one of the six specific sensor tests on each sensor (all explained in this posting).[/quote]

after driving a few yards they went off and everything was immediately back to normal and no problems all day.
Be advised, that many of us (including me), initially have the ABS/DSC/Brake trifecta intermittent only to eventually return as permanent.

What I don't understand about the design of this system is that it obviously needs 4 wheel sensors for ABS/DSC to function properly but that all other systems apparently are denpending on the impulse signal from the rear left wheel only.
I'm confused. Who said "all other systems" are using the rear left wheel?

AFAIK, the left rear sensor controls speedometer, odometer, and tripmeter; but not cruise control, steering angle, or gearbox information.
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#33 ·
Hi guyss...am new over here...well i have also recently bought a E39 525D but the previous owner has done a mess with the car by chaging all the wiring and stuff along witht the engine to put in a 525tds engine. My speedometer does not work..but if i disconnect my ABS module wiring, i can see two lights on, ABS and a triangle light on. Please note i have tried to test my speed sonsors but could not as it seem i have an old version of ABS Module which have thicker pins compared to those shown in the tests. Does anyone know why might my speedometer not working while apparently no lights on??
 
#34 ·
BTW, I just happened across this post which I must have read at some point 'cuz it's in my own thread, but, it says that the TAMPER DOT lit up when he replaced the LCM (not the ABS control module).

I know nothing about the tamper dot.

Has anyone seen the "tamper dot" come on with an ABS Control Module replacement from another vehicle?

PS: I guess we could test it out by borrowing a car ... but I'd leave that to someone braver than I.
 
#35 · (Edited)
It's not as useful when people don't report back - but I happened across this 1997 ABS thread today where the OP says he replaced his 1997 ABS Control Module 4 months ago (which is NOT in the engine compartment) with someone else's' rebuilt ABS control module ...

And ... get this ...

(He says) The ABS control module did not need to be recoded!

Specifically, the OP says he brought just the module (not the car, just the module) to the dealership who said the ABS control module must be IN the car in order to be recoded.

He went home, plugged in the ABS control module, and the three lights of death went out ... and (as far as we know), he never went back to the dealership to get the ABS module coded.

Too bad he didn't report back

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#36 ·
Good news. The OP in that last referenced thread reported back twice since and has startling information, which, if true, would be a revelation.

Here is the punch line from his assessment:
"The indy shop did confirm that for the 1997 528i, the ABS control module does not need to be coded."

Time will tell so I hope that OP keeps us informed as his situation seems a bit complicated:
a) His original module couldn't be repaired by BBA Reman
b) They sent him a rebuilt module from another vehicle (apparently)
c) He didn't get it recoded
d) Eventually strange things started to happen
e) BBA Reman is sending him a new module
f) The OP doesn't plan on recoding it saying the statement linked to above.
 
#37 ·
A used ABS replacement module will need to be coded if the car has a different transmission type (A vs M) then the donor car.

Putting a module from an Auto in a Manual will result in the ABS module throwing a "CAN bus gear box communication error" code. DSC warning light will remain on.
 
#39 ·
At the risk of repeating myself as ive just posted on another thread, Ive just replaced my module with a second hand unit and all is well!

In this respect I would not totally agree with 540iman who states simply changing the module does nothing. I replaced mine and instantly the problem was solved with all systems restored. I road tested and checked ABS, cruise and traction control and all are working.

I spoke to my tech who told me that the car will run a self diagnostic every 200 miles or so at which point it will see something is not right and the lights could come back on.

I appologise if ive missunderstood 540iman but initially the problem is solved however without coding it will probably return. Well thats according to my tech anyway and im not taking the chance so im booked in today.

Hope this is of assistance to someone
 
#40 · (Edited)
I spoke to my tech who told me that the car will run a self diagnostic every 200 miles or so at which point it will see something is not right and the lights could come back on.
Thank you for this information. Please DO keep us updated. So far, the information we have it inconsistent ... but since you're willing to do the experiment, maybe you can clear it up.

A used ABS replacement module will need to be coded if the car has a different transmission type (A vs M) then the donor car.
Good point!

For anyone contemplating a "different" ABS control module than the original, please let us know the delta between:

  • The transmission coding (A or M) of the old module versus the new
  • The engine model & year coding of the old module versus the new
It may be that the inconsistencies reported are related to that!

To GSned: Do you have THIS ABS control module (or the newer setup)?
And, was the transmission the same in both modules (old and new)?
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