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5 2000 wagon locked out.

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2000 5 series wagon battery locked-out
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25K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  cn90  
E
#1 ·
Tues. 30 Nov. 2010
A) I read all posts concerning how to override electronic locks (dead battery)--pulling the handle, holding the handle while turning the key right/left, using the valet key, etc..
B) I read the manual (most uninformative was info on accessing the locked rear, "FROM INSIDE the cargo area..." Duh...)
C) This model has 1 lock, I've used a non-func electronic key for about 5 years--no problem--manually locking/unlocking the door several times each day; until yesterday when I tried to unlock the door--the car has sat for about 7 days.
D)I reached a BMW mechanic @ the dealer; his solution was to tow.

Are there any other possible means to get into this car--without window damage, or towing?
--Cheers,
Etude
 
#4 · (Edited)
EtudeTutor said:
...

Are there any other possible means to get into this car--without window damage, or towing?
--Cheers,
Etude
Click to expand...
So, you're saying that your door lock can NOT be physically turned to the manual unlock position? With a dead battery, the normal unlock position doesn't work because that is the electronic unlock position. :)

The manual unlock position is when the key is turned (counter clock-wise) totally horizontal ( -- )....the electronic unlock position is approx ( \ ). If your car is RHD (right hand drive)...then the lock positions would be the MIRROR opposite of the info below...you'd turn your key to the extreme right (clockwise):

Image


Image

Image
 
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#7 ·
QSilver7 said:
So, you're saying that your door lock can NOT be physically turned to the manual unlock position? With a dead battery, the normal unlock position doesn't work because that is the electronic unlock position. :)

The manual unlock position is when the key is turned (counter clock-wise) totally horizontal ( -- )....the electronic unlock position is approx ( \ ). If your car is RHD (right hand drive)...then the lock positions would be the MIRROR opposite of the info below...you'd turn your key to the extreme right (clockwise):
Click to expand...
Interesting, I didn't realize it was a 5-position switch...always thought it was only 3. Very cool!
 
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#5 ·
To All: Thank you very much for your suggestions. 1) I have inserted the key, pulled on the handle, & turned L & R; 2) I sprayed teflon on the key & turned it; 3) I've tried to force the rear hatch open. Help me out here, I've seen conflicting views on using SlimJims/locksmiths--meaning that neither are solutions. I'll call around nonetheless.
Again, I am very grateful for suggestions...
Cheers,
 
#8 · (Edited)
This may not help but can you open your trunk manually? If so, you might be able to get through the ski hole or somehow get the fold-down seats down (if you have such an option)? Find a 5 year old to squeeze through for you! :)

I attached the best pic I have that might give you some rough idea how a slim jim might or might not work. I wish I had a better pic of the locking mechanism so you would know for sure.
 

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#9 ·
To All: Thank you for your interest & suggestions. Happy reading...
Here's what happened: 1)I called around to auto locksmiths (waste of time) one was absolutely correct when he said, "nope can't help..."; 1) I called the BMW dealer--3x today; Adviser 1 "There is a manual key inside your electronic key...pull the top and you can use that key to manually unlock your car." My key does not have an extra key. Adviser 2 "Call BMW roadside assistance." 3) BMW RA, "Our technicians are trained to get into BMW's." I questioned her confidence, but she seemed pretty sure so I agreed to the $119 charge. 4) The locksmith was able to "pop" the lock up after spreading the door with blood pressure-like cuffs--one on the top one on the side; however the lock wouldn't stay up. "The battery is dead, the locks are dead bolted." He was not interested in exploring other options such as looking under the car for possible wires, etc. I did call RA again to seek a refund, and I will get part of my money back--who knows?
Finally, Advisor 3 at BMW, "Put the key in the lock and turn it." Honest to god, I am not making this up; my husband was standing next to me when I was speaking with the Adviser. I explained the situation again, to clarify, "...if you put the key in the lock and open it you can pop the hood..." And so it went.
The car is now being towed to the dealer.
Cheers,
 
#13 ·
EtudeTutor said:
"Put the key in the lock and turn it." Honest to god, I am not making this up
Click to expand...
I understand your frustration, and, while this problem has not happened to me, I have read many many times that people THOUGHT they were locked out but didn't explore the left-most manual-unlock position of the lock mechanism (which is unnatural for them as it's never used otherwise).

It appears you have explored that - but the fact that hundreds to thousands of other people do not, that might explain why people here and on the phone with you are imploring you to ascertain for a certainty that you've explored the CORRECT manual unlock position (which is, as I said, not where many people think it is).

Good luck!
 
#10 · (Edited)
Success! :thumbup:

If for some reason it happens again and it requires opening the car manually...don't lift up on the handle while turning the key counter-clockwise. The lift & hold procedure of the door handle...was for the old e34/e32 5 & 7series. The e39 only requires turning the key in the cylinder.


E39 Manual Unlock procedure (from owners manual): notice no mention of lift & hold
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E34 & E32 Manual Unlock procedure (from owners manual):
Image

Image
 
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#11 ·
:wtf:

Your dealer is wrong and is giving you advice for the incorrect model!

The new Comfort Access keys do not have a "key" that you turn. They just have a fob; the fob does contain a plastic key for emergency use. That was introduced several years after your car was built.

The only way to get into a fully locked E39 is to turn the key or activate the power door locks. The handles are physically disengaged from the locks. If you lock someone inside, they are completely unable to get out. This system therefore defeats the usefulness of getting into the hood and crawling through the seats (which don't open in the first place from the back). Therefore, it's impossible to get into the car without turning the key or using the remote. This is why if you lose a key, you're boned.

Turn the key 90°. You'll get in. If you turn both locks 90° (as Q said, no lifting or anything) to the left and nothing happens, you're kinda screwed. :dunno:
 
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#12 ·
Dear Frede am Fahren (and I that BTW): Yes, I did all of those things--not pulling the handle, turning the key @ var. degrees, searching for a hidden key, etc. My car has been
at the dealer since yesterday, it's almost 10:00PDT & no one has called to LMK the problem. in the view of my experience, I see 10 mechanics, & 3 or 4 managers trying to
open the door with the key....
Guten tag & cheers,
 
5
#14 · (Edited)
When you lock your BMW, the mechanism somehow disables the lock/unlock pin ( the black button that pops up and down to indicate lock/unlock) so that even if you manually lift the pin, the door will not unlock. This renders the slim jim method of opening a locked BMW useless. This failsafe is deactivated by unlocking your door via the fob or manually with the key.
From my experience, I think this failsafe deactivation is most likely jammed and hence your doors are not opening. A similar thing happened to me but I was fortunate that my car was not locked and I managed to "reset" the mechanism after opening the door panel.
Try fiddling about with the key in the door lock and hopefully this may free up the mechanism. hopefully.
As far as I remember, the easy way I remembered opening my car when my central locking stopped working was that I would turn the key such that the top of the key is turned towards the hood as in forward (clockwise) to unlock the door and turn the key such that the top of the key is turned towards the trunk (anti-clockwise) to lock (my car is right hand drive).

Also, try manually opening the trunk and replace/charge the battery and try with the fob, if this has not been done.

I'm sorry if there's any repetition and good luck man.
 
C
#15 · (Edited)
This is a little known secret, on the driver's side chassis, if you crawl from underneath looking upward, there is a Positive Post that feeds the Starter Motor.

In desperate situation, one can apply some voltage to open doors by using appropriate alligator clips wire:
- One clip goes to this Positive Post.
- Another Clip goes to Transmission Housing or any ground
(Just make sure you don't short the wires).
- Then connect both wires to a donor car's battery (any car with 12V battery).

Now you can use your key remote to open the door.

Image
 

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#16 ·
cn90 said:
TOne clip goes to this Positive Post.
- Another Clip goes to ... ground
Click to expand...
I'm trying to understand this technique.

I realize the ignition key has small wires that connect the battery to one set of small leads in the starter solenoid. This, of course, you're bypassing with this technique.

Then, there is a larger battery cable that goes to the larger leads of the starter solenoid, and then on to the starter motor, to ground.

I'm not sure where in that larger-wire loop you're connecting to; but I'm confused how this is going to work (unless it's a joke).

a) If that connection point is on the starter side of the starter solenoid, won't the connection spin the starter motor continuously?

b) Even so, since you can connect it momentarily, how does powering up the starter motor allow you to open your locked doors?

Confused ... :)
 
C
#17 ·
In any cars fitted with a Bosch starter motor (VW, Audi, Saab, Volvo, MB, BMW etc.), the Starter Motor consists of 2 parts:
- The Solenoid
- The Motor (coupled with the Starter Clutch)

The Large Red cable from the battery goes straight to the Starter Motor labeled #3 in the pic below.

- When you start the BMW E39 by turning the key (#1), the "EWS" system, being upstream of the starter motor, allows current to flow through only if all conditions are met (the proper key and chip).

- Now current (from the ignition switch in the steering column via EWS) goes to the Starter Solenoid (labeled #2, itself is grounded), the Solenoid does two (2) things simultaneously:
1- Current flows from #3 --> #4 and therefore spinning the Starter Motor.
2- The Solenoid (labeled #2) pulled the arm inward ---> engaging the Clutch.
Now the starter motor is spinning the flywheel and the engine starts.

The (+) connection point under the chassis (labeled #5) is a direct connection to the battery in the trunk.

So by doing exactly what I posted a few threads above (thread #15), you basically charge the battery in the trunk and that is all. This procedure basically "jump-starts" a dead battery and therefore allows the door actuator to function, thus opening the door on command.

In other words, think of the connection point under the chassis (labeled #5) as the same as the (+) terminal on the Intake Manifold. The difference is, when you have a dead battery and cannot open the door, you have no access to the hood (+) terminal, whereas the connection point under the chassis (labeled #5) is always available to you if you are willing to crawl underneath.

Hope this clears things up.

Image
 

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#19 ·
Oh, my mistake!

I forgot, in the middle of things here, that the OP has no access to the hood battery access points; and no access to the trunk battery access points; and his battery is dead.

I didn't realize the intent was ONLY to charge the battery!

I thought it was somehow a tricky way to unlock doors directly.

Now that I realize (belatedly) < slaps head > that you're talking about merely charging the battery, now (only now) do I get why you told him about that positive cable under the engine.

Sorry for being dense!
 
C
#20 ·
This technique jumping "Red Battery Cable" worekd! See this thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1580480

My method is basically the "last-line-of-defense" one.

Now to the exact mode of failure:
- As QSilver7 said, one should be able to open door and trunk manually (even with dead battery).

- However, I have seen this in different forums that some people are locked out when the battery is dead, and they cannot open the door or trunk manually even with some force. Does anyone know the exact mechanism of the manual mode failure: i.e., exactly what part in the lock actuator goes wrong that prevent people from opening their door/trunk manually? Any door actuator expert here?

My guess is the arc between -45 deg and - 90 deg of the lock cylinder is somehow blocked with gunk for not using this part for so long, therefore this prevents people from unlocking manually. Just a guess:

Image
 

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C
#21 ·
Back to this trick of jumping the "Red Positive Post" when you are desperate, I just confirmed with my 1998 528i (and probably true for all I6 models, and maybe V8 too) that there is no need to remove any plastic shield to get to it.

Here is the trick:
1. Make a note of the Rear part of the tire (the driver's side front tire). The "Red Positive Post" is directly inward of the Rear part of the tire.
Laying on your back and reach your hand in and you will see it (a large makeup $5 mirror will be very useful).

2. But best is to:
- Jack the front driver's side up and
- Place a jackstand under the subframe. This is very important if you don't want to be crushed!
- Then do the jumping of (+) and (-) terminals as mentioned previously.

Image
 
C
#22 ·
For those who follow QSilver7's instructions to the "t" and still cannot open the door manually, this is my theory. It was 10F and I parked the car outside and used my manual key, it was stiff to turn to -45 deg position (see post #20 above) to open the door.

So I came up with this theory why people cannot open their door/trunk manually when the battery is dead:
1- If you always use your remote, then your cylinder lock never goes through the "daily workout".
2- Now add water from rain, car wash, freezing rain over a 10-year period.
3- Now add the fact that you fail to lubricate your lock cylinder with the appropriate graphite lubricant.

When you look at all 3 factors above, 10 years later, when your battery is dead, there is a chance that your lock cylinder is seized (rusted in) and you can't open it manually.

So my 2 cents for those who use only remote:
- Once a month, give the lock cylinder a "workout": open it manually.
- Twice a year, spray the inside of the lock some with liquid graphite (available at autoparts store for $2-3)

This way when you face with emergency, you are not caught by surprise!
 
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