[QSilver7]

...I have so far tried to reprogram my key using all the techniques found in these forums with no luck. My central locking system seem to be working , just not when using the key remote. The lock/unlock button between front seat works fine.

Please let me know.

Does this include checking your fuel filler door to see if it is locking along with the rest of the central locking system? If you haven't checked...lock the car from the driver's door, then walk around to the fuel filler door to see if it is locked.

If it is NOT locked...then you may have found your culprit. The keyless entry won't work if there's a fault in the central locking system. Check the fuse in the trunk for the central locking system...if it is blown...more than likely it is from the fuel filler door actuator. Replace the fuse, then reinitialize your remote key(s). If it works for a while then stops working again, recheck the fuse...if it is blown then you need to either replace the fuel filler door actuator...or unplug it so that it doesn't send a fault to the system which will prevent the keyless entry system from working.

 

[rush_ad]

If it is NOT locked...then you may have found your culprit. The keyless entry won't work if there's a fault in the central locking system. Check the fuse in the trunk for the central locking system...if it is blown...more than likely it is from the fuel filler door actuator. Replace the fuse, then reinitialize your remote key(s). If it works for a while then stops working again, recheck the fuse...if it is blown then you need to either replace the fuel filler door actuator...or unplug it so that it doesn't send a fault to the system which will prevent the keyless entry system from working.

Yes, I also checked this. When I close all the doors manually using the drive side door, the fuel filler door remains open.

Then I also checked the fuse in the trunk #53. It was in good working condition. Even then, I replaced it with another working 7.5a fuse. Then I tried to reprogram the key with the new fuse in place, still no luck. The key would not reprogram.

This leads to me believe that the key battery has stopped recharging.

Any thoughts or help?

 

[QSilver7]

Yes, ... the fuel filler door remains open.

...
If it is NOT locked...then you may have found your culprit. The keyless entry won't work if there's a fault in the central locking system. ... you need to either replace the fuel filler door actuator...or unplug it so that it doesn't send a fault to the system which will prevent the keyless entry system from working.

I would unplug the electrical harness from the fuel filler door actuator (as previously suggested) and check the other fuses for the central locking system.

If the fuel filler door is NOT locking...then the central locking system is not working correctly...which then prevents the keyless entry from working correctly.

Also check all of the other fuses for the central locking system that are in the glovebox area as well as the one in the trunk that you already checked.

 

[rush_ad]

It turns out that my key has gone bad OR the key battery has died.

I went to BMW dealership to get their take on the issue. One person came out with a test key. And he programed that test key (keep pushing unlock button and push the lock button three times trick) to work with my car. He was able to program the test key to lock/unlock my car. Of course that test key would not start my engine since it had different teeth.

So it looks like my car is fine, no problems in the central locking system. Just the key I have is bad.

Is there any way to test the battery without opening the key? It would be nice to figure out if the circuit board in the key is bad or is it just the key battery.

Thanks

 

[rush_ad]

By the way, I am thinking about buying this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-X5-.../130591777992?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e67e064c8

Any suggestions or opinions? How do I find out if my car has immobilizer?

 

[QSilver7]

By the way, I am thinking about buying this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-X5-.../130591777992?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e67e064c8

Any suggestions or opinions? How do I find out if my car has immobilizer?

All BMWs since the early 90s have had some type of electronic "immobilizer" (EWS):

 

[rush_ad]

Then I guess my car has the immobilizer. If I buy this key (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-X5-.../130591777992?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e67e064c8) it will need to be programed by BMW. Right?

 

[QSilver7]

This is the crux that occurs in these "key" threads when owners inquire about this oft asked question... your local BMW dealership does NOT cut key blades, nor do they have the ability to program the EWS transponder. They order keys from BMW NA (here in the states) based on your car's VIN. The key is programmed with your car's specific ISN (individual serial number) and the key blade is cut (there) for whichever of the 4 types of keys you want to purchase...then it is sent back to your local BMW dealership to give (sell) to you.

You may get lucky and the local dealership will initialize (for free) the FZV & DWA part of the key (keyless entry & alarm siren system)...but the EWS feature of the key is already done. If they want to charge you for programming the keys to lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car...walk away and follow the instructions that are here in the DIY/FAQ threads.

Your remote key contains THREE features which work in correlation with each other but are THREE separate features:

1. EWS - immbolizing system
2. FZV - keyless entry system
3. DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

 

[Josh P.]

QSilver or someone else:

My Master key will not remotely unlock the doors, though it will manually unlock them and will allow the car to start. My other key works normally.

I had the Master in the ignition for 4 hours straight on a trip and it did not re-charge.

So, before I follow what is below for the new style key, will this even work, or is my key now totally dead in terms of remote locking and unlocking? I'm not sure how it got into a situation where it is still recognized enough to start the car but won't engage the remove lock/unlock feature, but there it is. What I'm afraid of is that the capacitor is dying and I'm going to end up driving somewhere and then having the car not recognize the key and refuse to start.

But if what is below will work, I'd rather do that than spend $150 for a new key.

Yes...the DWA feature (remote lock/unlock) of our keys is not car or VIN specific like the EWS (immobilization feature) of the key.

As long as the orphan key uses the same radio frequency (i.e. in the USA our keys are 315 MHz...in Europe they are 433 MHz) it can be programmed to lock/unlock your car (remember it will never start your car without having the embedded chip programmed with your car's VIN specific ISN (individual serial number)...which ONLY comes from BMW.

Another thing to remember is...the newer style "diamond-shaped" key does NOT have a replacable battery and is kept charged when it is inserted into the ignition and turned to position 1, 2, or 3. If your car was built BEFORE 9/99...it DOES NOT have the capability to keep that key charged...and if your car was built AFTER 9/99...the key probably won't be able to be inserted into the ignition past POSITION 0...which means even though your ignition has the ability to recharge the key...the key isn't cut for your car so the ignition won't turn.

That leaves you with using an orphaned old style rubber headed key from an e36/e39/e38 built before 9/99.

Hope this makes sense...see instructions below on how to program one of these keys to your car...REMEMBER to bring ALL of your master remote keys with you to program them ALL in the same session. Any remote key that you don't do in the same session...will no longer lock/unlock your car.

Stick ONLY the 1st key into the ignition...any other remote key that is to be programmed...start on STEP #3 or STEP #4 depending on which type of key you have.

(Instructions to reinitialize old style key)

(Instructions to reinitialize new style key)

 

[QSilver7]

A dead key battery won't prevent the key from starting the car

EWS FZV & DWA are ALL different features that are incorporated into the remote key.

EWS does NOT require the battery inside the key to work...it produces its own power thru induction. A 125 KHz AM signal is sent from the EWS control module (for your model year) to the RING ANTENNA around the ignition...which then powers the EEPROM (chip) inside the key. The EWS transponder chip then sends the ISN (individual serial number) back to the EWS control module and DME which recognizes if their ISNs match...and if so, the car will start.

Again, the EWS feature of the key DOES NOT require the use of the battery inside the key. Only the FZV & DWA features (wireless central locking/unlocking & alarm siren system arming/disarming) requires the internal key battery for transmitting its 315 MHz RF signal (in the USA) to the receiver in the C-pillar.

See the very LAST sentence in the information below:

See the WORKSHOP HINT (on right) in the pic below:

And this info below about the RING ANTENNA mentions that the EWS transponder is powered inductively. Your car does NOT have the transmitter/receiver (its function was incorporated into the EWS control module at the time of your car's production)...but again, your keys EWS transponder is powered through that 125 KHz AM signal...NOT from the battery inside the key:

 

[Josh P.]

This is all helpful and tells me I won't get stranded, but still does not tell me how to get back the remote lock/unlock features. I guess it's possible that my key battery is now completely dead.

 

[QSilver7]

...I had the Master in the ignition for 4 hours straight on a trip and it did not re-charge.

So, before I follow what is below for the new style key, will this even work, or is my key now totally dead in terms of remote locking and unlocking? ... f what is below will work, I'd rather do that than spend $150 for a new key.

This is all helpful and tells me I won't get stranded, but still does not tell me how to get back the remote lock/unlock features. I guess it's possible that my key battery is now completely dead.

There's a lot of info in this thread...so I'm not sure what to suggest other than "try it". This is one of the things I dislike about the new style key...when the FZV/DWA features don't work...it's difficult sometimes to tell why...and by the battery being sealed and one needs some electrical knowledge or experience and tools to diagnose power related issues etc.

It does take approx 30 hours to recharge a fully discharged new style key (SEE 3rd bullet in info below). We could conclude that the 4 hours wasn't enough...but it would only be speculation. If you have a battery charger...hook it up to the posts in the engine bay, then insert the key in the ignition and TURN it to POSITION 1 (KL R)...and leave it like that over-night to get a good 30 hour recharge period.

Once the key has had a chance to get a good full recharge...then try programming it (along with your working remote)...see the instructions below that show instructions for both style keys:

(3rd bullet states it takes approx 30 hours to recharge a fully discharged key)

 

[Josh P.]

Yes, I saw that it says 30 hours. But it also says the remote will function 15 times after a 30 minute charge. Ergo, after a 4 hour charge it should have some functionality.

I will try the reinitialization procedure and report back.

FYI I emailed Mike Miller and he noted that the lifespan of the battery in the new style key is 10 years. After that, the remote functions will not work, seat memory etc will not be saved, and the key will simply function as a manual key, able to start the car and open the door in the lock cylinder, but that's it. You want all the magic, you need to buy a new key.

My car is 12/2000 build date, and thus key is 11.5 years old.

 

[QSilver7]

...FYI I emailed Mike Miller and he noted that the lifespan of the battery in the new style key is 10 years. After that, the remote functions will not work, seat memory etc will not be saved, and the key will simply function as a manual key, able to start the car and open the door in the lock cylinder, but that's it. You want all the magic, you need to buy a new key....

I'm sure there are some new style keys that will last longer and some shorter...but still...I'm so thankful that both my e38 & e39 use the old style keys that have 2 screws that you remove to access the replaceable 2016 battery that only costs a few bucks...plus there's a red LED on the front side that indicates if a signal is being sent, and if the battery is getting weak.

I shake my head at those that want to get rid of the old style key for the new style key...the old style key is so much easier to live with. The worst that happens is the rubber pads wear down and look awful...but you can buy replacement key pads for less than $10 to solve that issue.

(sorry for the rant...it's just that there's been so many issues with the new style keys over the last few months on all of the BMW forums I frequent) :tsk:

 

[Josh P.]

New style key: "That's not a bug...that's a feature!"

Uh huh.

I'm sure there are some new style keys that will last longer and some shorter...but still...I'm so thankful that both my e38 & e39 use the old style keys that have 2 screws that you remove to access the replaceable 2016 battery that only costs a few bucks...plus there's a red LED on the front side that indicates if a signal is being sent, and if the battery is getting weak.

I shake my head at those that want to get rid of the old style key for the new style key...the old style key is so much easier to live with. The worst that happens is the rubber pads wear down and look awful...but you can buy replacement key pads for less than $10 to solve that issue.

(sorry for the rant...it's just that there's been so many issues with the new style keys over the last few months on all of the BMW forums I frequent) :tsk:

 

[gibo58]

key fob

Hi Josh, I have a 02 530i and my key became intermittent then stopped working altogether. Checked the trunk loom and recoded the key ect, still no joy. I opened one of my master keys and decided against trying to replace the battery.

I ended up ketting a new key from Bill Dodge BMW in Maine for about $130. Coded it once it got here and have not had any problems since, it's been about 2 months now.

Cheers

 

[Ali72]

Hello
Any1 with a key opened, i need to know what are marked on the piece from red oval selected on the picture, thank you in advance. My piece is missing from place and key not working.

 

[bluebee]

i need to know what are marked on the piece from red oval

Why not snap a picture of your key?

See also the response to the same question over here:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Diamond key replacement batteyr DIY (NO 56K)

 

[mojocracker]

Did It Today and...

Thanks Bluebee. I did this today and it worked great, even though my soldering skills are slim to none. You can find lots of soldering tutorials on YouTube.

Also, I ordered my battery from a UK outfit on eBay. It was under 10 bucks and the pins are already mounted at 90 deg. so they fit perfectly into the board holes on the key's circuit board.

Opens the doors from fifty feet away again!!

Here is the eBay link to the battery I used.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-3-5-7-X...LIR2025-/120851751427?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item1c23536203

-=mojo

 

[Ågent99]

I just went through all this. My key only needed to be reinitialized. In case some don't know, the KL R position on the ignition is what I would call position 1 or ACCESSORY position. You can listen to the radio but have most of the stuff on the dash off.

Also, it was my key that didn't work while my wife's worked fine. Once I reinitialized my key and found it to work, my wife's key no longer worked.

So I repeated the procedure to reinit my key and reinit hers because I take it all keys need done one right after the other. Well, if I do that, now my key doesn't work but hers is back to working. I tried reversing the order...doesn't matter. The last key reinitialized works...the other does not.

What am I missing?