Is it possible that the rebuilt module is still failing? :tsk:

 

I have considered that, but did not want to complain to Module Masters until I did all that I could before hand. I will change the rear sensor and see how it goes. Thanks

 

The rear DRIVERS SIDE sensor controls the speedometer ect.. not the passengers side.

 

I'll be watching this thread 'cuz I don't have the heart to fix mine yet ...
bluebee

 

Well, I installed the passenger rear sensor and driver side sensors as well, for good measure, but I am having the same symptoms. Maybe the car has an enlarged prostate, because it is p...ing me off.

I am sending the module back to rebuilder for another check. The car is worse than a woman, "I'm in love with a b$@#h I can't stand."

Also, for the short period that the ABS and Brake lights are off (DSC light still on, constantly) it feels as if the ABS system tries to work when I brake, but feels and sounds like there is crunching at times. The front and rear rotors and pads only have 800 miles on them.

 

I had just sent mine back to BBA Reman again and they said it tested fine. I know it can't be one of the rear sensors, because my speedo and cruise work, so either it is one of the front sensors or there is something still wrong with the module.

I will state this, after I did receive it back the first time, it was fine for a day. It would be intermittent before the lights became permanently on again. Sometime when I started my car with my foot on the brake, it would push hard back up and making a grinding noise. The lights often would stay off or not light up right away too. I don't think the wheel sensors would have anything do with this.

 

It's back in with all lights shining bright I am getting really annoyed and don't want to waste more money figuring this out. I really do not think it is a speed sensors (I don't have floor jacks to remove wheels and check). If i get one of those ebay carsoft programs, will it accurately tell me what the problem is?

 

You should have checked out the old ABS sensors to make sure they're good or bad before wasting money in replacing all of them. It's easy to check. With the connector disconnected, use a digital volt meter and switch to the "diode" check position, a good sensor would be reading around 1.8V, a bad sensor would have no reading. My ABS/DSC/Brake lights are on, and using the procedure above, I verified that 3 senors are good and one is bad. I just ordered the front senor online and will see if that fix the problem.

 

I sent my module to BBA reman. Got it back and same thing ABS/DSC/BRAKE lights still on. Sent it back and they initially said it tested ok. They sent me another module and I got it recoded and BOOM no more problems.

 

This is becoming a real hassle.

 

I am feeling like buying a new one from EAC for $450. How difficult would it be to get refunded from Reman since they said it tested fine after they "fixed" it.

 

I doubt if they will refund your money. They will probably agree to fix it until you lose patients, or they decided that it is not repairable, forcing you to purchase one of their truly remanufactured units that they know works (+ core costs). At the end of the day you will probably end up paying the $400-$600 that a lot of people are paying for new ones. It will have to be recoded, of course...$$$$$$.

I drove my mother's '97 528i today. She is 73 years old, likes BMWs, but doesn't know how beautiful her car really is. When something breaks she takes it to the dealer and pays them to fix - she's probably paid for her 3 times already. However, it was nice driving in a car with no warning lights, no wobbles, no squeaks, no codes... just a really solid car. She makes me sick.