If your oil level is fine and it only blinks when your stopped. It most likely the sensor. But if it goes on while your driving PULL THE F OVER IMMEDIATELY AND TURN YOUR ENGINE OFF!. I hope I don't have to tell you that if the red oil light is on you have no oil pressure.

 

I***8217;m having the same problem with my oil light not only that driving on the highway it felt like my 325ci lost first and second gear the exclamation point with gear light came on but I turned it on this morning and drove fine first and second fine it never did this before

 

Blinking red light

No the oil light blinks only when stopped and idle. in fact it does not start blinking at all until the engine is hot. Do you think the blinking red light is associated with the service engine light?

thanks for the advice!

 

No the oil light blinks only when stopped and idle. in fact it does not start blinking at all until the engine is hot. Do you think the blinking red light is associated with the service engine light?

thanks for the advice!

I definitely think there related. Get the codes from the check engine light and post them here so were able to help you.

 

If it's not pressure sensor, then next to check would be oil pump IMO.
That light is blinking when idle.
As if oil pressure is just slightly lower than supposed to.
Or what do you think MMV?

Ok, now i found similar story on finnish site.
Problem only come up with warm engine, and on low revs.
In his case new oil pressure sensor fixed the problem exactly.

 

Yup as I said it's most likely just your sensor bud you should be ok.

 

I'm very familiar with this problem.

My wife owns a 2003 325i with 160k miles (all miles put on by her only and the care treated better than me... lol) and around 70k miles ago went and had the Oil Level Sensor replaced (was told by a dealer and private mech that it was bad). Then 15,000 miles later had the oil pump replaced (was told by a mech and dealer IT was bad). So you think it FIXED the problem. NOT!!! Now 19k miles ago (and living in another state) we are back to the flickering red light and yellow light coming on at around 10 miles of driving it. Had all electrical tested and comes back clear of any issues. Was told the same old, same old by area BMW dealers and private mechanics... not knowing what has already been replaced. "Replace the senor, switch, and oil pump..."

My wife has had Bimmers for over 20 years and she has made a promise to never buy another one. We have never had so many headaches and drained pocket books from the newer models. Never had an issue with her mid 80's 3 series (wish still had it). So we put electrical tape over the oil can light and drive it till it locks up. We don't care since BMW doesn't care. Its clearly a common problem and still No Recall has been issued.

Good luck to anyone that has the same on going problem....

 

This is nuts! Thank you all for the tips and advice. Seems this really is a very common problem and like many of you I get the same from area mechanics. I added thicker oil and it seems to have gone away but I think that's just temp. Next steps are to do the 100mile service on the beast an replace the oil pressure sensor, it's only 10dollars and the repair is pretty simple.

Thanks again,

R

 

No problem!. Were here to help

 

This is the number one reason why I plan to install an oil pressure gauge. Those pressure switches are crap and fail all the time. Plus, they're set to light at something like 2 or 4psi. Even when they're working right it's not a warning light so much as a HOLY **** TURN THE ENGINE OFF RIGHT NOW FOR THE LOVE OF GOD light.

My mom had a (venerable) Ford station wagon that had an oil pump go. We noticed when the oil pressure light would flicker at lights after going on the highway and the oil would warm up. Replaced the switch, same problem. Replaced the oil pump, it went away. Until a month later it the tapping noise it had made for a while that sounded like a sticky lifter developed into a full blown rod knock. Seems the pump had been wimpy for a long time. Enough pressure to set off the 2.5psi switch but not enough to protect the bearings.

Mom had a new minivan a couple weeks later.

 

My amber oil light stays on upon starting and goes away in a few seconds. Has been happening for some times now but I ignore it since it goes away.

 

Same here. I checked the oil level a few times and it seemed to be fine so I learned to ignore it. I think I read somewhere that it does that just to show the light or the sensor or something is working.

 

I replaced mine about 30,000 miles ago with a new Hella sensor and it lasted a while but the oil light comes on intermediately now, just like it was before. I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket soon, so I guess I'll swap it out again then. Is there anyway to test the things?

 

What rpm does your car idle at? If too low, the oil pressure will dip down. If not, try Castrol 5w40 (carries BMW LL-01 cert) and see id that helps. The new BMW oil is VERY thin and IMO not suited for the older engines.

 

This is happening right now to my 2005 e53 x5 3.0 and iv changed my oil Nd replaced my pressure sensor it still flickers at idle ill post video below ots happening at stop signs still and red lights

 

What is your idle speed? It is fairly common issue where a low idle when the car is running but stopped leads to the insufficient oil pressure and the red light.

The idle speed should be 700rpm, though sometimes lower for an automatic. If it is low, check your idle control valve.

 

What am I checking for exactly on it sorry I'm new to this

 

Sorry about that. Look at the tach (dial to the right of the speedometer) and see where the needle points when the car is idling. There aren't a lot of fine gradations, but it should be more than a third of the way between 500 and 1k RPM.

 

Ahh okay I get what you mean the vehicle stays idling fine till it warms up or till its been driving for awhile then when I come to a stop or a red light it will misfire a little and the red oil light will flicker in drive but if I put it into park at a light or stop sign the misfire goes away and so does the oill flickering light, my levels are all good and the oil looks clean still, it has a new fram filter also from last change

 

I am saying that the low idle means low oil pump pressure. Best move would be to fix the low idle. Lots of info on how to do that on the forums.

 

Clean the ICV valve, maybe replace the rubber boot too to eliminate misfire. Inexpensive repair, best bang for the bucks...

 

How would I go about cleaning the icv valve myself, also I inspected upper intake tube when I replaced bottom intake boot (was a new and oem) from auto electric, upper was fine after i cleaned no cracks or holes also replaced all coil packs and spark plugs still has a misfire once inawile

2005 bmw e53 x5
310km 331

 

You need to remove the DISA and both boots to get to it

 

I posted some tricks in either E46 or E83 forum re...

• Grommet can be re-used.
• Big rubber boot should be replaced.
• Right-angle pair of pliers trick for the impossible screw on the ICV.

 

I posted some tricks in either E46 or E83 forum re...

• Grommet can be re-used.
• Big rubber boot should be replaced.
• Right-angle pair of pliers truck for the impossible screw on the ICV.

Screws are easy on the m54. The hard one is the hose clamps where the lower boot hits the throttle and iac. I recommend a flex shaft 6mm driver

 

The ICV screw trick is in this E53 X5 thread...

DIY: 2006 X5 3.0i CCV Overhaul - Page 3 - Xoutpost.com

Thanx CN, I appreciate the tutorial and this is brilliant work! thanx again!

xoutpost.com

 

Okay first off, I haven't tried any of your guys advice yet, cuase in my theory I have a vacuume leak I feel like from the codes I have atm, (p0171,p0174,p0491,p0300) all have one common issue a vacuume leak or cracked line so I took my car for a ride today assuming the warmer weather would help -2c° but after about 5 blocks light began flickering with a rough idol, and below rims needed, but when I have it gas the light would dissappear, were are the most common vaccum leaks i have already replaced my intake lower elbow boot, I have checked over the upper boot no cracks and looked on my passenger side hoses they seemed fine ?!?!? Any ideas would help

 

DIY: Fuel trims, lean codes, misfires and how to...

Introduction It took me a long time to understand fuel trims, despite excellent videos by 50skid and excellent posts by JFOJ. I think I have a handle on them now, so I thought I would try to explain them as I understand them, and either help someone and/or get corrected. Here is my shot. Theory...

www.e46fanatics.com

 

Still having problem

 

Well iv tried few things and checked my oil filter ect im lost atm at what I shoukd do I got a new scanner tho with these codes

Fault codes:
EB DME timming oxygen sensor before cat bank 1
F0 DME Misfire cylinder 3, EF 2, F1 4, F2 5,
E3 DME fuel trim bank 1 permissible range exceed
E4 DME fuel trim bank 2 permissible range exceed
61 DME secondary air flow rate to low
67 VANOS Inlet camshaft end position not reached
95 EGS CAN wheel speed sensor
55C4 no message From DSC -present
5EB1 DSC steering angle sensor supply -notpresent
5DEC DSC Transfer case malfunction -notpresent
5E4A DSC wheel speed sensor plausibility -present rear right
8B acoustic signal (gong T3)
10 control unit fault
79 LCM dipped beam right faulty
7A LCM sidelight left faulty
7C LCM turn indicator front left faulty
7E LCM Front fog lamp right faulty
7F LCM Front fog lamp left faulty
99 LCM Number plate light faulty
22 PDC acoustic generator front off
40 RLS Optical Inistilisation
7 SZM seat heating seat cushion left open circuit
8 SZM seat heating seat cushion right open circuit
17 SZM Undervoltage
51 GM relay for central locking drives rear unlocking does not pick up
53 GM relay for central locking drives rear unlocking does not pick up
95 GM Passenger compartment sensor

 

What’s your oil pressure at idle and 2000 RPM?


You didn’t just buy a BMW if money was of any concern, did you?

 

I don't know u haven't got a Guage tester im still having problem ots getting annoying iv done a oil change and filter change again

 

Also was this oil fine to use ?

 

And I am seeing some oil by bank 1s coils