Sounds like a blown fuse to me.

 

I have the same problem, but mine is more random. Most days everything works perfect, but some days I can't unlock the doors with the remote and have to use the actual key. Do you know which fuse to replace and how Crowz? Thanks.

 

If it's intermittent then it's not a fuse.

By the way, the fuse box is on the "ceiling" of the inside of the glove box and there's a helpful white card in there that tells you what each fuse is for.

Do you have the problems with both keys?

 

Sorry didnt see the "works on rare occasions" part.

 

Not sure how to resolve but once you're in the drivers seat can't you simply pull the internal handle on the passenger door to unlock / open? At least that way your passengers won't have to climb over the driver's seat.

 

Hi, thank you all for replying. Some more information for you. When the central locking doesnt open with the key fob, i open the passenger door with the key. The passenger side or back doors do not open from the inside either, thereofre my passengers have to jump over the driver seat. This is an intermittent problem. I dont think it is the fuse. Someone said that this is a common probelm with the E46. I have the same problem with both key fobs.

 

i have the same problem on mine, but recently i've had to change the car's battery and since then it's stopped working all together. when it first started happening i took it to my main dealer who told me it was the key, they said for my key (diamond shaped) it doesn't use a battery it's a coil which is charged when the key is in the ignition, and that the coil could be on it's way out, but to replace it would be over £200 per key. i'm thinking of maybe getting an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser fitted and incorperating it into the central locking system. may be a cheaper alternative. but any help would still be greatly appreciated

 

Hi all. exactly the same problem with my E46, was intermitent but it seemed to help if I gently moved the loom around by the boot lid hinge, (had the idea cuse that bit of loom is a big problem on other BM's E34, E36 maybe more) till someone gave it a good yank! now it wont work at all, had the trim off round the boot and lid, but cant see anything wrong with the loom. Someone must know how to fix it, it ruins alot of peoples experiance with a beutiful car.

 

my car does the same thing it will lock with the key but will not unlock. i took it to a dealer and they said it is the actuators (dont know exact spelling). they also said its like $450 a side. but the parts are only like 100 bucks a piece.

 

I'm not sure what my 316 has had done, I know its had the drivers door actuator done, and that did't help. But its had more done before I got it.

The price is high becuse BMW have to formaly introduce the new parts to the old, a bit like a Parts pimp I guess.

 

It's definately the relays in the GM5 going bad. Apparently this is a very common problem because there is a web page dedicated to it.

www.revoxremotes.com/BMW/BMW_GM5.htm

They nailed the problem I was having with my door locks. Sent my GM5 in for repair and got it back in my hands within 48 hours. Dealer wanted $530 for a new module plus recoding and installation.

 

Great info. But, if the relays go bad, wouldn't they go bad permanently? What would explain the intermittent nature of the problem?

(BTW, I too experience this problem intermittently. Hasn't bothered me too much because it works normally most of the time. It's also the only gremlin I've experienced with this car.)

 

This was my issue last summer;

My radio was very static, AM or FM channels and both keys could not open
doors remotely, even standing very close to the door.

No signal/activity at all from the remote.

Sent car to dealer and was told that it was a faulty wiring harness from
the rear glass to the diversity antenna, part number 61 12 8 373 257 ($15.20)

Once it was replaced, and upon picking my car, I tested that both keys work
remotely from a distance and was able to open all doors, windows and the sun roof .

I am not sure if this will help you .

 

This was my issue last summer;

My radio was very static, AM or FM channels and both keys could not open
doors remotely, even standing very close to the door.

No signal/activity at all from the remote.

Sent car to dealer and was told that it was a faulty wiring harness from
the rear glass to the diversity antenna, part number 61 12 8 373 257 ($15.20)

Once it was replaced, and upon picking my car, I tested that both keys work
remotely from a distance and was able to open all doors, windows and the sun roof .

I am not sure if this will help you .

Thanks for the input. But I doubt my problem has to do with the antenna.. when I can't unlock from the remote, I also can't unlock from the lock/unlock button in the car as well.

 

Why are the relays intermittant?

I can't explain why they are intermittant, but, I know that when mine where intermittant having this guy replace the relays in my GM5 cured the problem. Over a month now and not one single problem.

http://www.bmwgm5.com

 

I can't explain why they are intermittant, but, I know that when mine where intermittant having this guy replace the relays in my GM5 cured the problem. Over a month now and not one single problem.

http://www.bmwgm5.com

Do you think the users of this forum are that naive. Anyone who goes to your website will soon realize that you are 'this guy'. You should have created a username here that is different than the Ebay account name listed on your web site.

It looks like you've done a lot of research on this issue and have are offering an inexpensive alternative to purchasing a new module. However, by creating this misleading post you've lost a lot of credibility with me and I'm sure others who use this form.

Come clean.

 

FYI,

I decided to do this repair myself. The guy, scottjoh, sells the relays via his website and via eBay. I purchased two of the relays via eBay. Unsoldering the old relays is indeed a PITA. Even when using a high-temp soldering iron, solder sucker, and solder braid/wick I couldn't get all the solder out enough to pull out the old relays. Once I removed as much solder as I could from the back of the circuit board, I carefully cut apart the old relays and removed them piece-by-piece until only their pins were left attached to the circuit board. Then I could access the solder points that were underneath the relays so I could get enough of the remaing solder out to pull out the old pins. After that I just inserted the new relays and soldered them. Door locks are working fine now. :thumbup: Patience and persistence is required when unsoldering those relays.

 

I have this same locking problem and my problem is ALSO intermittent. I noticed that on the days the car is just baking in the sun is when the problem is most likely to crop up... sounds like Gm5.... sigh

 

I have the same problem and it happens some times especially in the winter. Since summer started it only happended twice. Radio and cruise control too and airbag and seat belt lights are on. It all started going bad at the same time. I was told it was the relays. I am driving the car for now. I will fix it when I have time.

 

Hi, I too have a central locking problem, my boot lid does not unlock with the central locking, if I press the boot button it opens fine. The key slot is in the vertical position and I have reprogrammed the key. It's very annoying especially when I leave my keys in the boot which was when I realised :-(

 

Having the same problem, doors lock ok but wont unlock and same when using the interior locking button.. all intermitant... Was recently in a crash and the garage had taken the petrol cap cover off too match the paint.
If i open the cap, lock the car and push the nipple that locks the petrol cap door it pops back in, thus resulting in the car not unlocking.
I reckon its the nipple catching on the petrol cap door and causing the car to think its been tampered with..?
Gonna bring back to garage and see if i get that sorted will it sort the problem (hope its not some wiring loom)
will post back soon if the prob does not reoccur

 

Hey guys hope someone can help me here, I bought a 2002 325ci and the remote does not work so I changed the battery thinking it will fix it but nothing. I have checked all the fuse and all are ok. I can lock/unlock the doors manually and when I do lock the door the fuel door does not lock. Anybody have any ideas on what can be wrong? I really love this car but having a remote and not working is getting really annoying. I have also been to the local BMW dealer they told me it will be $180 to get a new key. and i dont think that just a new key will fix it. please anybody

 

It's almost certainly the relays in the GM5 module. I had the same problem on a 2001 325i with 130K miles . Since I am in Australia, I bought the relays from Scott in the US and tried to replace them myself. Like the guy above said they are very difficult to remove unless you have a professional soldering set up. so, having tried and failed I took the GM5 unit and the 2 relays to a professional electronics repair workshop. They did it for $120 and from then on the locks work perfectly.

 

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this vexing problem. But do note that the last time this thread was addressed was a year ago, hence the participants may have moved on to other endeavors.

 

Got my central locking problem fixed

I had this problem on my 330d touring. Its central locking would lock every time. Opening would be intermitant and once opened with the key manually, you still couldn't open the rest of the doors with the internal button next to the hazard switch.

My problem was the general module (gm5), not the locks, keys or the fuses etc. The issue is on the module board. It has two relays (made by Bosch or Toyo). Over time these just wear out.

The issue is cost. BMW dealer wanted £150 to confirm my suspicions, £400 of a new general module and then lots more to programme the new module to the car and keys.

I found a guy in Yorkshire (UK) that just replaced the relays on my existing module for £50. Now locking opens and closes everytime with no issues.

Job done and very happy.

 

This is almost certain to be the G5 module door relays. I had exactly the same symptoms on my 2001 model 325i saloon. I bought the relays from Scott in the US as I am in Australia and did not want to send the G5 to the USA for repair. Removing the G5 unit is easy but removing the relays from the circuit board is very difficult unless you have a professional soldering facility. I tried to do it but gave up as I did not want to damage the circuit board and took it and new relays to a local electronics (TV) repair shop. They charged me A$100 to do it, much cheaper than a new G5 unit from the BMW dealer. It's been working fine now for more than 12 months.:thumbup:

 

Step-by-step guide to the GM5 Fix

I've recently tried it myself and it now works fine i've been suffering with the problem for several months, and now its back to normal =)

 

Nice video, Dukey! You captured my sentiment of "it's not all that difficult really, but it is kind of a pain in the butt". Cleanly desoldering all the holes was a bit tedious for me, but you have a nicer desoldering iron.

 

That wasn't me in the video but i used his guide to do mine, there are people about who will do it for you for very little, it was tedious for me also, but it fixed the problem, i was worried it would cost hundreds

 

Same here. Only the passenger side door. It sometimes unlock but everytime locks. When it first started, the car was under warranty, I took it in and dealership replaced the door actuator. It worked a few years and then started again. It was doing it once in a while but now, it almost never unlocks (not even by the lock/unlock button in the center console).
I think mine is also the defective relay in the GM5 module. I looked at the DIY video. It is a difficult soldering job but I have a friend (electronics tech) he could do it.

Where would I buy the relays?