BMW X5 E70 XENON D1S HEADLIGHT BULB CHANGE DIY
I was looking online to find how change the D1S Xenon bulb on my car but I could not find anything definitive, so I thought I'd put this DIY together. This applies to the E70, and possibly other models like the E71/E72 as well that may use the same wire clip retention design.
TIME: 45 minutes for a first timer (10 minutes if experienced)
DIFFICULTY: 2/5 (mostly blind feeler access to removing the metal wire retention clips from the D1s bulb base and getting the back access cover back on--see pictures for clarification)
PARTS NEEDED
INSTRUCTIONS
REMOVAL
1. Open the hood. You will be working from the interior of the front fender, as viewed from the engine bay (see pictures).
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2. Open up headlight case low beam cover. On each side headlight case, there's 2 covers that expose the headlight interior. The twist off inboard one is for the angel eyes bulb (2011 and older), and the clipped outboard one is the for access to the low beam (this is what you want to open--it's in the fender recess). To get the outboard access cover off, there's a tab on the very top--just push down on the tab to allow the top portion to swing back. It will come right off and will reveal the inside.
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3. Remove D1s base holder retention clips. In the exposed outer access hole, you'll see a silver wiring harness, it will be attached to the bottom of the D1S base. Using that as a marker, by blind feel, you'll feel 2 thin wires securing the D1S base. You'll need to push each retention wire towards the D1S base, then towards the center of the bulb to release it. Study the photo.
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4. Disconnect D1S wiring harness. Carefully pull out the D1S bulb by slowly backing it out (gently nudge the clips to the side as necessary to clear your D1S bulb/base). Then, disconnect the wiring harness. You may need a large flathead screwdriver to help wedge out the wiring harness a little bit, then use your hands when you can to remove the harness from the D1S bulb.
INSTALLING
Reverse the above steps: 4,3,2, 1. Notes for each step are below:
Step 4': Tip: the wiring harness has spots for 4 connectors, but only 1,2,4 have pins. If you lose orientation, check the harness and bulb to make sure it's aligned properly when reinstalling the D1S bulb to the harness. There's also a subtle tab to help orient you.
Step 3': Install the headlight by wiggling and pushing forward the bulb until it's secure in the headlight. Replace the retention clips (tip: When reinstalling the securing clips to the D1S base by blind feel, use a cell phone to verify the clips are in the proper place). Now, I would test the headlight on this step to make sure it's all working properly.
Step 2': This is probably the most frustrating part of reinstalling. On the access cover, you'll see there are 2 lower securing legs. These securing legs need to fit into the headlight capsule holes. The holes are just under a protruding circumferential lip. Use a camping headlamp to light up the area to get one foot in, then the other foot. Once you do this, you can then swing the access cover closed via the top locking tab.
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Side Note: I wanted to get a slightly more white light than my stock, slightly yellow 4300k D1S bulb. I opted to get some Osram D1S Xenon Cool Blue Intense 66140CBI bulbs (5000k), more white color with slight blue tint). There are some Philips D1S bulbs that are as good as well. Do note that there are lots of high quality appearing counterfeit bulbs out there, so make sure you buy from reputable Osram or Philips distributors like www.theretrofitsource.com or PowerBulbs (dot com) to make sure you get the real genuine product in a factory sealed packaging and holograms.
I was looking online to find how change the D1S Xenon bulb on my car but I could not find anything definitive, so I thought I'd put this DIY together. This applies to the E70, and possibly other models like the E71/E72 as well that may use the same wire clip retention design.
TIME: 45 minutes for a first timer (10 minutes if experienced)
DIFFICULTY: 2/5 (mostly blind feeler access to removing the metal wire retention clips from the D1s bulb base and getting the back access cover back on--see pictures for clarification)
PARTS NEEDED
- D1S bulb(s) (see side note below)
- Gloves (nitrile or rubber; to prevent hand oils getting on bulb--do NOT touch the bulb or you'll create hotspots on the glass and it will have shorter life)
- Large flat head screwdriver or plastic wedge tool (to help get the harness off the bulb base; not required)
- Camping headlamp (to give you more light inside the fender to be able to see what you're doing)
- Cell phone camera (to take a photo of the interior capsule to help guide your work; not required)
INSTRUCTIONS
REMOVAL
1. Open the hood. You will be working from the interior of the front fender, as viewed from the engine bay (see pictures).
2. Open up headlight case low beam cover. On each side headlight case, there's 2 covers that expose the headlight interior. The twist off inboard one is for the angel eyes bulb (2011 and older), and the clipped outboard one is the for access to the low beam (this is what you want to open--it's in the fender recess). To get the outboard access cover off, there's a tab on the very top--just push down on the tab to allow the top portion to swing back. It will come right off and will reveal the inside.
3. Remove D1s base holder retention clips. In the exposed outer access hole, you'll see a silver wiring harness, it will be attached to the bottom of the D1S base. Using that as a marker, by blind feel, you'll feel 2 thin wires securing the D1S base. You'll need to push each retention wire towards the D1S base, then towards the center of the bulb to release it. Study the photo.
4. Disconnect D1S wiring harness. Carefully pull out the D1S bulb by slowly backing it out (gently nudge the clips to the side as necessary to clear your D1S bulb/base). Then, disconnect the wiring harness. You may need a large flathead screwdriver to help wedge out the wiring harness a little bit, then use your hands when you can to remove the harness from the D1S bulb.
INSTALLING
Reverse the above steps: 4,3,2, 1. Notes for each step are below:
Step 4': Tip: the wiring harness has spots for 4 connectors, but only 1,2,4 have pins. If you lose orientation, check the harness and bulb to make sure it's aligned properly when reinstalling the D1S bulb to the harness. There's also a subtle tab to help orient you.
Step 3': Install the headlight by wiggling and pushing forward the bulb until it's secure in the headlight. Replace the retention clips (tip: When reinstalling the securing clips to the D1S base by blind feel, use a cell phone to verify the clips are in the proper place). Now, I would test the headlight on this step to make sure it's all working properly.
Step 2': This is probably the most frustrating part of reinstalling. On the access cover, you'll see there are 2 lower securing legs. These securing legs need to fit into the headlight capsule holes. The holes are just under a protruding circumferential lip. Use a camping headlamp to light up the area to get one foot in, then the other foot. Once you do this, you can then swing the access cover closed via the top locking tab.
Side Note: I wanted to get a slightly more white light than my stock, slightly yellow 4300k D1S bulb. I opted to get some Osram D1S Xenon Cool Blue Intense 66140CBI bulbs (5000k), more white color with slight blue tint). There are some Philips D1S bulbs that are as good as well. Do note that there are lots of high quality appearing counterfeit bulbs out there, so make sure you buy from reputable Osram or Philips distributors like www.theretrofitsource.com or PowerBulbs (dot com) to make sure you get the real genuine product in a factory sealed packaging and holograms.
