They are using ADP, a common dealer software. Every company has different screens and verbage, but this is what I think.

26) Total Annual Fees:
For us these are the tag and title fees total (i.e. $39)

27: Total Initial Fees
We use this line for documentation fee and lemon law ($502)

30) Amount At Start:
These are "working cash" in my screen, but what it is totals the inicial lease up fronts (i.e. first payment, cap cost reduction, tax on cap cost reduction, doc, tag, title and lemon law)

But please note that fees and disclossure very by state.

Hope this help.

 

Great info. What about Aquisition fee?

Thanks.
Is the aquisition fee rolled into the monthly least payments, or included in the out-of-pocket money?

 

Acquisition fee is usually rolled into the lease but it is up to you. Also, keep in mind that doc fees are pure profit.

 

I can't get my dealer to show me the entire worksheet. I ordered a 335i sedan in Jan. The car is built and in transit. I am trying to decide on lease vs. buy and they keep trying to tell me the MF is .00265. I explained that I thought it was .0021 and I am OK w/ a SD to get it, but don't see the need for MSD. Any advice on trying to negotiate the MF? They are fine w/ the 4.9 % finance rate from BMWFS, why are they playing games on the MF? I know, profit. What should I do to close the deal? Leasing is better for me for a # of reasons, but I don't want to be screwed.

 

Well.. at least you know the reason..

Too late now, but you should have negotiated to get the "buy" rate on the lease, when you ordered the car...

Now, you are at their mercy... short of walking away...

 

You should do the MSD. It's like investing money at 10% (varies based on how many you do, price, etc, but can be as much as that). Check out my lease calculator from this thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261668

At the bottom, there's a calculation that shows you how much you're saving by doing MSDs.

 

Finding the "Buy Rate"

Is the Buy Rate the MF rate that is listed on this site (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260678)?

I am looking at a 335i sedan and have a MF quoted at .00210. Is that marked up, or the Buy Rate?

Thanks.

 

Is the Buy Rate the MF rate that is listed on this site (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260678)?

I am looking at a 335i sedan and have a MF quoted at .00210. Is that marked up, or the Buy Rate?

Thanks.

That would be buy rate (cringe).

 

They can mark it up by as much as 0.0004. I say a reasonable markup is 0.0002, even better is 0.0001.

 

From your posting it sounds like you made the critical mistake of not agreeing on a selling price at $xxx above invoice as the first step. So haggling over buy rate + x is a little meaningless in the total picture. I'm sure many dealers would accept no markup in the MF if the selling price (cap cost) is high enough. There is tons of information on this forum on leasing to help you make sure you have a fair deal. Take advantage of it. At a minimum you need to determine 1) cap cost, 2) mark-up on acquistion fee, 3) MF buy rate plus applicable adjustments such as OLP, MSD, etc, and 4) dealer doc fees.

Leasing is a great option on BMW's IF you know what you're doing.

 

Actually, we did deal w/ all of that stuff. Deal was good, negotiated w/ 3 dealers, but was assured w/ "yeah the rate from BMW"...Well there is the difference. The rate that BMW listed was 4.9% finance and .0021 MF. Due to other factors I wanted to see it both ways but leaned towards the purchase (another story) as did the CA. I realize now that he was probably trying to tell me something by pushing a purchase. The #'s work better that way. I "assumed" that their statement meant the rates I noted. We all know what happens when you "assume." Not the maximum allowable ones. I know it is my own fault, but the flurry of papers trick kind of worked despite my trying to slow them down. I should have made them call me the next day. Just posting for some ideas. Thanks

 

Big difference.

Mine is preventative, your remark is criminal.

 

Man, I've got to chill. Sorry 18 cups of coffee today.

 

I understand your point and ofcourse the difference in a clerk and an F&I manager is the sales abilities and the continuing education about the legalities. The no more no less statement is wrong. I have people all year trying to defraud my company and the consumer base in general, using other people's identities, submitting fake information over the internet. The dealers I have worked for go beyond the requirements of the law to safeguard thier clients. Our clients are important to us and we do not want anyone to get hurt. I only hope one day the car dealer can be considered just another company trying to make an honest profit.

But we can certainly agree to disagree.

 

I knowingly went with a nearby in-state dealer who was $600 higher than two out of state ones as my time and convenience is worth something to me, plus the closer one is a center of excellence dealer and the one in which I did my test drives. I ordered a 335xi coupe in December and the best I can tell is that I am $1,600 over invoice (including destination and training).

My deal was for $2,000 off MSRP and the MSRP price was locked in until delivery because at the time I was worried that BMW would be increasing their prices due to the dollar devaluation compared to the Euro. I think the dealer was worried about this as well, perhaps part of the reason for the higher price versus the other two dealers.

I am not sure why doing an amount off MSRP versus an amount over invoice is a critical mistake. At the time I hadn't done enough research to know what invoice is, and whether it included the destination charge, training and MACO, or what, so an amount off a locked in MSRP seem preferable.

I was almost certain I was going to buy, as I am a high mileage driver, but now have thought of an option to get my mileage down to 15,000 a year. Now though because of the economy, I am considering a lease to hedge my bet on the future market value versus the residual. So I did not think to lock in any MF's, and besides I think they went down compared to what would have been good in December.

I also did not finalize a trade-in value, although if I don't get a good price due to the high mileage I just may keep it and drive it on occasion to keep the BMW mileage down

I think I have already given the dealer a fair profit. If do a lease at this point, how do I make sure I do not leave anymore dollars on the table?