Not familiar with petrol engines so not sure if it is normal,im assuming you're using the multimeter technic to diagnose the drain, have you tried unplugging the icv and seeing if the current draw drops? I would think the icv is supposed to close on engine shutoff or return to original position.

 

yes, I have done a draw test and yes it drops when I unplug the icv. There is also constant power to the disa valve even after the car goes to sleep. and yes the draw drops when unplugging that as well.

 

Im a little riddled as to how they'd draw current themselves, I would imagine the issue isnt in the disa and icv valve but likely whats supplying their power, Not sure which module it is but i assume its the ecu module, Im not familiar with petrol engines, hopefully someone more knowledgable can chime in and give you a diagram and assist you to fixing your issue. Have a good day/night

 

I believe all the evidence points to the DME still getting power when the car is at sleep. Do you have the wiring diagram of how the DME is connect to power?

 

No. I'm trying to find one. There is a relay that clicks every 15 seconds while the car is sleep. The battery is only getting charged to 11.8v. I'm wondering if the battery needs to be registered.

 

Which relay? Where is it?

 

When my wife gets home I'm going to throw the battery from her x5 in there and see if there is any change. Eight now I think my next step is to get this battery registered. I've been struggling trying to get ista or inpa downloaded for hours. I have ncs expert but I don't have a dcan cable, just a regular obd2 USB dongle. So if I can't find anyone in my area today then I'll get a cable tomorrow on prime. Should also include that the dash has been changed. The old one was in the trunk when I purchased it. I found someone with a similar problem who had a bad dash and that fixed it and from what the previous owner told me, he did the same trying to fix the issue but didn't do much else.

 

Its pulling between 5-6 amps when i did the draw test. Even with the icv and disa unplugged it still pulls about 5.

 

Its from the engine compartment but I cannot tell what one it is; Im guessing it is the engine control relay but I dont know forsure. I had to put the car back together to go somewhere but im diving back in now.

It looks to me like the car is acting as if the ignition is on. im guessing the maf is hot as well but have not checked.

 

K6300 is the DME relay. See if it is this one.

 

That is the one. just pulled it and it seems fine..

I had one other thought. Just spit ballin here lol. ive had ignition switch issues in the past on an e46 that had all types of crazy gremlins. one being a weird airbag fault, as well as the vanity mirror lights not working. well this car has both of those issues. and seeing how the problem im having is similar to the ignition being on, maybe that is the ticket? is there a way to test an ignition switch?

 

So while unplugging my dme to check all the wiring in the underhood electrical box I found one of the connectors was very wet with an oily type substance. i took the dme apart and no water got inside and I dont SEE any evidence of a short or excessive heat. after cleaning and reinstalling there is no change.

 

Disconnect the ibs cable on the negative battery terminal. When i first bought my 05' 525i it did the same thing, it needed a new ibs cable as it wasn't allowing the car to sleep. You can drive without an ibs connected but the alternator will throw full voltage to the battery instead of monitoring battery condition and altering voltage accordingly.

 

ive tried that. does nothing. Altho I am getting an ibs code as well as generator code.
The voltage regulator whines pretty badly and there is absolutely no change with the ibs plugged in or unplugged. same codes and everything. As of now im replacing the ibs and voltage regulator.

 

Here is the Bimmerlink code readout.
I use Inpa for all diagnostics, but these are easier to read when sharing.

 

I would clear the error codes and then see what pops up. The short circuit on a lamp error code jumps out at me. 5A when asleep should be easy to detect. Do you have a voltage meter? You can measure the voltage drop across each fuse to see what is drawing current.

 

5A is a serious draw for something that should be asleep. I have also heard of alternators drawing current with the vehicle asleep. Bad diodes or something. That should be something easily diagnosed.

 

I'm going to unplug the dme + sgm today and re scan. As well as run a parasitic draw test. I now have ista, all that's left is attaining the knowledge 😅. Any advice on where to go from there? I booted up ista+ last night for about 10 min but I have no idea what I'm doing today. Still need to watch tutorials and such.

 

This is the car after a new voltage regulator and ambient temp sensor. Believe it or not the temp sensor was causing an engine light 🤷🏾‍♂️
Anyway, that is all fixed but this CAN BUS issue remains.. Going to start with the steps I posted above in the last post as soon as this rain stops. Phoenix is getting its tiny bit of rain for the year lol.

 

BSD code is fixed IBS code is fixed

Will removing the fuse for a module have the same effect on the can bus as unplugging it?

 

Is that tiny amount of voltage on terminal 15 enough to cause problems?

 

With regards to a bad ambient air temp sensor throwing an error code or the check engine light, that is to be expected. Intake air temperature is one of the variables used to determine the amount of fuel to inject into each cylinder.

Re: "Will removing the fuse for a module have the same effect on the can bus as unplugging it? ". That is sort of a trick question. If the module is functioning properly, then I have to believe that the transceivers are such that removing power to the module will take it offline without interfering with the CAN bus. On the other hand, if the module is taking down the CAN bus due to some sort of internal short, then removing power to the module will likely still bring down the bus.

 

Havent had time to wrench in a few days. finally got back to it. I've unplugged kbm, klima, mpm, and the front seat modules. testing after each module is unplugged.

 

any help guys? also, looks as if the dme, sgm and kbm were either replaced or programmed January of last year.
How would I go about testing my dme to see if it is faulty? I mentioned above that it had mositure\oil substance on one of the connectors.
Im still driving this car daily, and I love it. Just trying to get my BMW diagnostic skills up to par.

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Vehicle getting stuck in wake-up cycle - parasitic draw...

Hello all, coming up on two years of chasing this issue. Although, I have more recently dedicated more time to it since I have a garage space now. I hope this isn't beating a dead horse but I've hit a spot where I can't find information. 2011 135i - N55 (yes its an E82, but the electrical...

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Look at this post. I think the procedure described by @gbalthrop is very comprehensive.

 

Thank you so much! What a great write up

 

Yes