UPDATE: 12/20/2016
So the retrofit kit arrives tomorrow, I thought I would take today and prepare my car for a quick install tomorrow.
There are a lot of really good guides out there that you can find with a quick "Google" search.

The one that everyone has seen 100x - myself included:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=799458

Possibly not as well known:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1291856

So this won't be super picture intensive, as I feel it would be a rehash of what others have done. After much thought, the niche of this DIY is to clarify some areas and really make the process effortless and simple. So here we go.

 

Removing climate control panel

Everything up to this point is pretty straight forward. Removing this panel requires very little effort.
Place your finger behind the panel as pictured. Place your other hand in front to catch it (if it should fall). Flick your finger forward and it should pop out (yes it requires that little effort).

This is what it should look like after.

Removing climate control panel wiring clips
This is what the clip looks like installed behind the climate control panel. Depress the clip retainer (red arrow); swing the clip arm over the retainer (green arrow); the entire clip as you swing the arm will eject from the housing (yellow arrows)

This is what the clip looks like removed and in the closed position

This is what the clip looks like removed and in the open position

This is the profile of the same clip. Notice, when reinstalling the clip, it must be in the fully extended position (90 degrees purple lines); in order to line up the bottom portion of the clip to the socket (notice the teal arrow). As you reinsert the clip, the arm will begin to swing into the closed position - don't resist it's movement.

 

Removing fascial cover
This requires very little effort. Excessive force will break the cover. If you do not intend to sell the old unit, you can disregard these removal instructions.

Place your trim removal tool as picture above, ensuring that a portion of the lower section of the trim tool is placed behind the fascial cover. Apply minimal force in the direction of the green arrow. In a fulcrum like fashion, the lower portion will pop outward (yellow arrow)

Move the trim removal tool and again place it as pictured. Again apply gentle force in the direction of the green arrow. Again, the fascial cover will pop out in the direction of the yellow arrow.

Place the trim removal tool again as pictured. Apply force in the direction of the green arrow. The fascial cover will pop forward and will permit manipulation to remove the entire cover. Note: If you have the seat heater option, the ribbon runs along the left side and snakes its way to the top

 

Wiring the microphone from the center overhead panel
This was actually easier than I thought. During my planning phase, I removed the trim from the A-frame and ran the wires with existing BMW wiring. The first task - how to remove that pesky overhead panel.

Step 1. Don't bother with the panel. Unclip both sun visors and swing them out.
Step 2. Unscrew the sun visor clips (for both sun visors) It should look like what is pictured below

Step 3. This is the difficult part. Which isn't that difficult if you know what you're feeling for. Below is a picture of the panel removed, so you know what you will be feeling for. There are 2 metal springs which when depressed simultaneously (see green circles), the entire panel literally falls out. Since both of your hands will be placed behind the roof covering. It is very pliable, and is flexible enough to fit both of your hands without deforming it's shape.

This is a side view so you can closely see how the clips move, and how much the clips can be "depressed".

There are some who say it can be removed from below, but this way was so easy, I had to include as the most effective and efficient way to get this component removed without risking damage to the aluminum opening (yes where the panel clips, is aluminum and can be damaged if you pry it open with a flat head), also, removing the diffusing light cover (over the center console light) does nothing and only risks breaking clips that secure it in place.

Here's a video of someone attempting the same maneuver. Except there are few things he did that you don't need to do, and there are a few things he didn't do that you should do.
1. Don't remove the diffusing light cover, it's not needed (it's that foggy looking plastic over the light - u only risk breaking a clip)
2. Remove both sun visors from their retaining clips to the side (like your trying to create shade from the sung coming through your window)
3. Unscrew the sun visor retaining clips for both sun visors (this will greatly increase the are through which you can put your hands, and gives you 1000% more room the maneuver
4. I would NOT attempt what he did without removing those sun visor clips.
Video of Center Overhead panel - for purposes of how to position both hands to depress retaining clips

Final Install Pic
This NBT EVO retrofit is simply amazing. Super fast. The struggle with my prior Professional DVD Navigation was real. It's a pleasure to drive now - and stream over bluetooth with CarPlay!

If anyone has any questions (ie: how I accomplished wire management; where I installed the bluetooth and wifi antennae etc) I'm more than willing to help. And I do have more pictures, but I didn't post them all, as I looked back, some of them were pretty basic maneuvers or were detailed by other DIY's.

The most difficult part of this DIY for me was wire management behind the NBT unit. I didn't want any wires being in a crushed position, but rather to be the most neutral flowing position as possible (especially the fiber optic cable). Everything else was pretty chill and straight forward.

Hope this helps someone. Thank you all for your DIY's they helped me plan this from beginning to end before I even began the project.

Thank you.

 

Nice writeup - I'm curious to where you installed the bluetooth and wifi antenna - any pictures you can share

 

It appears you have one notification. Is that for SOS? Did you end up coding out the error?

Also, did you find a solution to the microphone echo problem?

 

Yes. I did find a solution to the microphone echo problem. Was much more involved than I thought, but rather straight forward. I plan on adding to this write up (wish I reserved one more spot after my post to add in this addendum).

In a quick nutshell, it involved acquiring BMW part#65129248552 (F01 TOP HIFI SYSTEM Amplifier).
Has the MOST connector & 20 pin connect - but also an additional power socket.
For the power socket, you will need two of these:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/sleeve/12521436649/

and one of these:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/housing/61136907385/

Pin 1&2 were jumper'ed in the MOST connector socket (I used an ATA computer HD jumper - works extremely well). To make room in the MOST connector, just slip out the fiber optic, cut an opening for the jumper in the MOST sleeve, slip sleeve back on the fiber optic connection - boom - it should slide right onto the socket! (if you don't follow what I just wrote, wait for my guide, it's super easy)

You will also need about 10 feet of 10 gauge cable for power, and an inline 40 amp fuse.
I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AKDHPMC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2V03XUFHFCLT2&psc=1

and this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR0N370/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AITZO53LNBA1K&psc=1

For a clean install, I also use some heat shrink wrap (color coded of course)

I also used parts of this DIY as a very helpful guide. Thanks to risf, the OP for posting it. Super in depth, and an amazing read.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19256760

As I said, I will post a guide with my own pictures, but right now really busy. Hopefully what I've written will be helpful for those who need it.

Well done. Thanks for write-up.

Thanks for looking. I hope it helped someone.

Amazing write-up and photos!!! What kind of camera do you have? :rofl:

I just got NBT EVO retrofit for my 335i and looking to install it on the weekend!
I feel it's going to be a straight-forward installation. I did NBT retrofit from bimmer retrofit on my E60 last year, it went well - but I ended up selling the car (with NBT installed), and got F15 instead.

Than got a 335i for my wife, and now she wants the NBT EVO. We had a major vehicle rotation this year lol

Anyway, looking for ideas on how to install the touch controller. Can you please post some photos? On my E60 I had the newer iDrive knob, so didn't bother with the replacement, but my wife wants the touch capability...

Thank you. I hoped to add to this community knowledge base, in the hopes of giving back what they have given to me.

The camera used is an iPhone 7 Plus.

Center console Touch controller fitment: Oh man, that is another guide that I want to get to as well.
I found a matching CIC center console online. Used a dremel to cut the edges to make room to fit the touch controller. It's not hard. Just take it slow. I didn't use the cutting tool of the dremel, I used the grinding/sanding bit. I took it very slow, as I didn't want to make the opening larger than I needed.

I will make a guide. It did not involve making fiberglass/epoxy etc. Just shave the end furthest away from the front of the car - as the Touch controller is longer than the CIC controller, but it's the same width. Thankfully.
The most difficult things for me was the mount. I had to create a mounting bracket. I can't find the post, where I implemented the idea, but it involves creating a cradle underneath in a cross (crucifix) formation under the controller to secure it to the center console - using the existing mounting points. The person who came up with the idea and posted it online was ingenious.

Wish you the best on your install. It's so worth it!

 

Well done. Thanks for write-up.

 

Amazing write-up and photos!!! What kind of camera do you have? :rofl:

I just got NBT EVO retrofit for my 335i and looking to install it on the weekend!
I feel it's going to be a straight-forward installation. I did NBT retrofit from bimmer retrofit on my E60 last year, it went well - but I ended up selling the car (with NBT installed), and got F15 instead.

Than got a 335i for my wife, and now she wants the NBT EVO. We had a major vehicle rotation this year lol

Anyway, looking for ideas on how to install the touch controller. Can you please post some photos? On my E60 I had the newer iDrive knob, so didn't bother with the replacement, but my wife wants the touch capability...

 

In order to perform the NBT EVO retrofit, is it necessary to upgrade to LCI Climate Controls and CIC Control Panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

 

I just got a quote on the retrofit for my E93. The "fine print" kinda scared me a bit:

- BMW Assist/SOS and Satellite/HD radio will not be available after the NBT EVO retrofit.
- Minor echo will be present on phone calls when phone is paired with the vehicle via Bluetooth.

I can possibly live without Satellite/HD radio but that's a rough thing to lose in this upgrade especially considering Sirius doesn't have a CarPlay compatible app. I could probably use TuneIn for the HD radio bit.

It seems like you solved the echo issue but I'm really not looking forward to spending another $350-$1200 to fix that.

Does CarPlay work over WiFi wirelessly? That might push me over the edge to do this.

I'm still waiting on Dynavin to confirm whether or not their iDrive system will work with CIC systems in the LCI E93's. That's the cheapest path to CarPlay that I've found and I'm pretty hopeful that it'll work. Otherwise I'm stuck dropping another $2500 into this car :/

 

Hey Iceweasel69,

I did the NBT EVO retrofit and have the echo issue, shocker! I read your post and looked up the links. It seems one would have to alter the wiring. Do you have a write-up perhaps with pictures?

Will any F series amplifier work? I have an E64.

Thanks a lot for your help. I haven't found much written on the topic.

 

Hey Iceweasel69,

I did the NBT EVO retrofit and have the echo issue, shocker! I read your post and looked up the links. It seems one would have to alter the wiring. Do you have a write-up perhaps with pictures?

Will any F series amplifier work? I have an E64.

Thanks a lot for your help. I haven't found much written on the topic.

Hey Cedric. Yes I am working a very comprehensive write up, detailed parts required, it's plug and play. As in, swap the amplifier, no coding required.

Installation will require a little work, removing trunk lining, running wires and tapping into a switched wire if you want to install a cooling fan (F01 amps have an additional cooling fan).
The amp part number you're looking for is 65129248552

If you are itching to get it started. This link should get you in the right direction (thanks to emhtuning for the info)

http://cartechnology.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=18818&page=5

For detailed amp installation with most part numbers (huge huge kudos to reisf - stuck with it until he found a solution and shared a very detailed write up). I should also add this the most important link. On the first page, reisf discovered that pins#1 and #2 in the MOST connector needs to be jumpered. Pierre26 at post #18 thoroughly describes this in pictures as well as parts numbers. I have listed the part numbers below as well.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1148763

Connecting directly to the battery block (single or double connector): thanks to MendotaMike for part numbers for the block and female connector (pictures are there)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7388921#post7388921

If you need additional information, send me a PM. I'm still working on the write up.

Hope this helps.

 

BMW Coding and Programming 101 - A Visual Guide

Some things are done out of necessity. This was one of them. Learning to code and program my 2006 330i e90.

First, I have to say thank you to shawnsheridan for getting me started and on the right track, and cedric for teaching me everything I know.
Also a huge thanks to everyone who has ever helped a novice. We were all once one, but we don't stay novices forever.
It's now my turn to give back what I have learned and in the process hopefully help someone else.

Ok, with that out of the way - the good news! I GOTS sound! lol

The solution - not all part#65129248552 top Hifi Amps are the same. I had a pn#65129248552 from a 2011 x3, turns out it was a AMPH70 variant - I found this out by using ISTA/P v3.61 (more on this later) with ICOM connection - I needed an AMP_60 variant.
I don't know if using ISTA/P to program the AMP ECU would make it work/compatible with the head unit - it appears as if the software level isn't compatible you won't get any sound. Granted, I didn't test the theory, but I did buy a 2012 pn#65129248552 top hifi amp from a 750i - installed - and sound! Didn't have to do any coding at all. Just plug and play.

So what have I coded so far? Removed the nagging SOS warning error, and I plan to change the door chime - the default one sounds really weird with the new amp.

What have I programmed? Nothing yet. But I plan on doing a full car software update.

My goal is simple, to disseminate accurate information in the most concise way as possible. The best medium I can think of is video. I'm a huge visual learner. If I can see it, and hear it, I understand it. It's clear and it's concise - I can't think of a better way to help others.

So i'll be doing a series of screen captures (video recordings) with the following goals:
1. Describing the software
2. Describing its use
3. Demonstrating its function (this is limited to what I have used it for)

If anyone wants to add to what I post feel free. Video format is best

The software for which I will be creating a video series (in no particular order) - and of course it will be e-Series focused are:
1. winKFP v5.3.1
2. E-Sys 3.27.1 with PSdZData full 61.5
3. NCSExpert v4.0.1 with NCSDummy 0.6.0.6
4. ISTA/P v3.61
5. ISTA/D v4.0.4.12 (with 100GB+ of data files)

What you will need (yeah, I actually bit the bullet and bought them - the Schumacher charger is now my new toy, I love that thing).
1. Schumacher DSR Power Supply, 70 Amp, Adjustable Voltage INC700A. The price on Amazon has gone up $100 since i bought it a week and a half ago, it's now $457. But, a quick eBay search has it for $368 brand new (search for: DSR Power Supply, 70 Amp, Adjustable Voltage INC700A)
2. ICOMA2+B+C or ICOM NEXT, anywhere from $225-$400 on ebay. The ICOM clones work just fine.
3. K+CAN K+DCAN OBDII cable. I got mine from Amazon for $22 - works just fine. There are those who swear by OSE (one stop electronics) - but thats your call.
4. The software. You can find them all over this forum.
Mac users running VM Ware v8.0 or higher, send me a PM for a clean BMWCoding3.5 VM via ZippyShare. There are 866 files, 200mb each, about 161GB total with all the software described above included and more (ie: BMW Coding Tool, Tool32, ETK etc). Uncompressed it's about 307GB.

**if you don't have enough space, you can reduce the size by 100GB by having ISTAP and E-Sys share the same PSDZdata folder using the 'mklink' command**

First video will be up this weekend (fingers crossed). Look out for it.

Cheers!

BTW - did I mention I have glorious sound now? Well I do. lol

 

The first video is up - How to FDL code with E-Sys on a BMW e90 NBT EVO Head unit
https://youtu.be/ldgsNUcFBlI

I'll try to get a video up on how to do an FA rebuild for e-series vehicles, then move into coding with NCSEXpert.

From there, I'll head into ISTAD via OBDII, then ICOM, then ISTAP. If my plans change, I'll post them here.

Cheers.

 

Nbt evo



Thanks iceweasel69 is your enthusiastic guide.
I am following you for my F10 2016 car.
1. / I have NBT EVO G30 (part: 8794114) and its Vin.
2. / I bonded it on the bench.
3. / I created FA (Vin NBT EVO) and connected it E-sys + PsdZData 63.3. Quadlock NBT EVO Pinout (Pin 12: -12V, Pin 15: + 12V), OABR to PC (IP: 168.199.254.99), (Without ZGW) and successful connection.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dajo-gZx2YBypm_pbTPzioEaZ5moyP3

4. In E-sys Expert Mode >>> Load FA (Vin NBT EVO) >>> Active FA >>> Read (ECU) I see ECU NBT Evo and it lost connection in a few minutes. Did you do anything wrong that you can fix me?
5. / On the other hand, when connecting E-sys + PsdZData 63.3, see the ECU NBT evo CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004. But I did not find this CAFD in my PsdZData 63.3. How to get CAFD_00001EF6_006_029_004

My English is translated from google.

 

Okay, so now with all the parts you've got a fully implemented system? No echo, no warnings, and full sound?

Is there anything missing?

I'm not crazy about spending $2.5k on this upgrade but I'm warming up to the idea.

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app

 

Okay, so now with all the parts you've got a fully implemented system? No echo, no warnings, and full sound?

That is correct. No echo. No warnings. The sound is better than the original logic amp. Voice commands work flawlessly!
If I could do it all over again I would. Even with the headache of getting the sound to work and not knowing how to code.
I got a lot of help and someone taught me to code. Once you learn and get how the systems in your car integrate you can begin to navigate doing things with the software packages.

Is there anything missing?

I'm not crazy about spending $2.5k on this upgrade but I'm warming up to the idea.

Nope. This thread has it pretty much laid out. I did install a 45 mm fan on the end of the amp via a relay. Tested playing music loudly and continuously for an hour and under the full noon 85 degree sun and it was cool to the touch. The F01 amps normally have an external fan mounted to help regulate the temp.
Also changed the wiring from when I initially installed it. Recently found out that the F01 amps don't need to be powered from the battery - so there are some components in this guide that are no longer needed for the amp to work.

You can forgo the ICOM cable, and the 70am charger. If you can get a retrofit for 1500-1600, and an amp for $300, the total cost should be under 2k.

 

F01 amp can be powered just like the E-series amp. You just need to supply Kl 30g on MOST pin 1, or bridge pins 1 and 2.

Has anyone tried retrofitting ICAM into E-series. It's straightforward from electronics perspective - FBAS to EVO, power from 30g and KCAN2 connection. My question is about the physical installation. I got my hands on F15 trunk boot handle and it is much larger than what we have on E-series. F15 boot requires hole 150x38mm. Am I missing an easier way to install it than cutting into the trunk lid to expand the hole?

 

hello everyone.
i need to your help.i wanna E90 FRM module short circuit reset with tool32 but when i load SGBD files not anything seen to job!! please send your help PM

 

hello everyone.
i need to your help.i wanna E90 FRM module short circuit reset with tool32 but when i load SGBD files not anything seen to job!! please send your help PM

 

Amplifier installation update:

It's been a while since I've updated this post. Been a bit busy with life as usual. But, I must, so no one is lead down the path of unnecessary work, make an update to this guide. And it involves installing the 2012, F10 amplifier!

UPDATED AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

All of post #9 is outdated (except 3 parts).

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10192548&postcount=9

You don't need to connect the amplifier to the battery of the car. Which means this negates purchasing any connectors to the battery block, or the power housing of the amp.

Yes! This is true. I repeat, the amplifier does not need to be connected to the battery.

And it's all because of this:

PIN10 in the speaker housing connector (connector pictured below - removal instructions in the photo - CLICK PHOTOS FOR LARGER IMAGE) provides all the power needed for the amp.






So how is this accomplished??? Well, you will need a few parts. Three to be exact.
1. COVER CAP (PN# 61136905200)
2. HOUSING (PN# 61136901844)
3. CONTACT (PN# 61131393724) ****I recommend buying 4 or 6 of these. You may make a mistake making the jumper loop.
Parts are pictured below with their associated pricing at time of purchase.

Lets make the jumper loop. Using the CONTACT (PN# 61131393724) and a 2 inch length piece of 18 or 22AWG wire (I recommend 18) create a loop. And place the two pins into pin slot #1 and #2 of the HOUSING (PN# 61136901844). It should look as pictured below.

LOOP - notice the number 1 & 2

HOUSING inserted into the COVER CAP

The fiber optic cable is the inserted into the COVER CAP and the entire COVER CAP is then plugged into the amplifier. Connect the speaker housing cable, and you're done. No need for any other cables. Simple!

I took things a step further and installed a fan to keep the amp cool. These F10 amplifiers were installed with a fan. There are many solutions to this problem. I have since learned more about fans, but the fan I used is serving my needs, but I will eventually replace it with a HP fan (high pressure). These types of fans maintain airflow movement regardless of what may obstruct the flow. Their blades are large, and have less space in between them to ensure their flow is constant. I'll write a guide about this change when I get around to making this change. I may end up using a temp monitor. Right now I'm only using a switch. It serves it's purpose for now. The amp is always cool.

Hope this helps someone and saves time and $$.

 

iDRIVE INSTALLATION

I don't have all the pictures of my iDrive installation. But it's not super difficult if you are coming from a CIC center console.
The CIC center console trim is a touch shorter and a little narrower than the NBT iDrive opening.
As I mentioned before. Using a rounded file or a Dremel filing tool. Go slow and you will make small changes to the opening then recheck fitment and adjust accordingly.

FINAL CIC to NBT opening fitment

The next challenge is how to affix the NBT iDrive unit to a CIC opening
Here is a photo I found online. My only problem was that I don't have any tools to fabricate the piece they made. Which by the way is very clean and robust. (I don't have credits of where I found this image - if anyone knows who took this photo please PM and I will give the credit here)

IDRIVE FRONT VIEW

IDRIVE CENTER VIEW

So, I got creative. I don't remember the brand, but it's called "perforated metal hanger straps". It's very thin roll of flexible aluminum. I bought it at Lowes and it worked gloriously. I think it's like $0.99/roll.

But this is what it looks like. Because they are so many holes, and so malleable, I was able to mold a very tight fitting around the NBT controller for an extremely snug fit. This negated the need for another fixation point to prevent rocking of the controller when used. The unit doesn't move regardless of where pressure or weight is applied from the top. It remains firmly in place.

IDRIVE CENTER VIEW

CLOSEUP FIXATION

That's it. Hope this helps someone during their e90 NBT retrofit.

***I haven't forgotten about coding videos. I will be making some time this weekend to do a video on how to create an FA for an e90.

Thanks.

 

Thanks for the updates iceweasel! I'm ordering all the necessary components for the amp this week. I'm looking forward to more info about the fan upgrade on the amp, and learning how to code from your videos.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

 

As promised. The next video is up - rebuilding FA for e-Series vehicles in E-sys.

https://youtu.be/4Bytx0toGmg

 

For time criteria, you cannot just use november/october all the time, as suggested in the video. The easiest way to find the correct one is by factory i-level, but if it unknown, use NCD/CAFD Tool FA-CAFD feature to display the available time criteria for specific chassis type, then pick the latest that is not newer than your production date.

 

The factory i-level will be for the chassis - not the headunit correct? Additionally, the information that is read from the CAFD files won't populate for e-series vehicles due to missing ECU's. Is that also correct?

There will be a mismatch between chassis production date (e-series) and the production date of the headunit VIN number, as well as the chassis themselves. So the donor vehicle production date for the headunit must be known or the vin number to populate that field.

It just so happens that in my case with a production date of 1/2015, the 11/2015 date worked because it was prior to the actual production date and not after.

Ultimately, how would one go about getting a production date from a head unit that was donated from a G-series vehicle and installed in a e-series if the factor i-level information will be that of the e-series (the production date of the vehicle the headunit is being installed)?

Thanks for your info. Very helpful.

 

Don't worry about E-series date, if you want to code a baseline for EVO for further FDL editing, look at donor headunit VIN and reconstruct the FA. In case of G series that would be the VIN and FA of EVO donor. For production date of 1/15 you would use 11/14 for time criteria. This becomes important when the options change on newer models - for example, 2018 MY F80s have same HU as 2017, but are coded for touch screen, while 2017 MY F80s use screens without touch control.

 

Ahhhhhhhh.....I see. Thanks for the correction. I'll add a comment on the video to reflect this new knowledge.

 

Parts Ordered for Retrofit

Moderators, I can't edit my previous posts to add back the photos that are no longer working. So I'm going to repost those portions.

Thanks,

Pics of parts received thus far.

Infotainment cover (North America - notice the AM/FM mode buttons)

Dash Trim

USB Auxiliary Input socket

Fiber optic system jumper (terminating loop)

iDrive touch control unit

 

Installation Pictures

Removing climate control panel

Everything up to this point is pretty straight forward. Removing this panel requires very little effort.
Place your finger behind the panel as pictured. Place your other hand in front to catch it (if it should fall). Flick your finger forward and it should pop out (yes it requires that little effort).

This is what it should look like after.

Removing climate control panel wiring clips
This is what the clip looks like installed behind the climate control panel. Depress the clip retainer (red arrow); swing the clip arm over the retainer (green arrow); the entire clip as you swing the arm will eject from the housing (yellow arrows)

This is what the clip looks like removed and in the closed position

This is what the clip looks like removed and in the open position

This is the profile of the same clip. Notice, when reinstalling the clip, it must be in the fully extended position (90 degrees purple lines); in order to line up the bottom portion of the clip to the socket (notice the teal arrow). As you reinsert the clip, the arm will begin to swing into the closed position - don't resist it's movement.

 

Installation - Fascial Cover

Removing fascial cover
This requires very little effort. Excessive force will break the cover. If you do not intend to sell the old unit, you can disregard these removal instructions.

Place your trim removal tool as picture above, ensuring that a portion of the lower section of the trim tool is placed behind the fascial cover. Apply minimal force in the direction of the green arrow. In a fulcrum like fashion, the lower portion will pop outward (yellow arrow)

Move the trim removal tool and again place it as pictured. Again apply gentle force in the direction of the green arrow. Again, the fascial cover will pop out in the direction of the yellow arrow.

Place the trim removal tool again as pictured. Apply force in the direction of the green arrow. The fascial cover will pop forward and will permit manipulation to remove the entire cover. Note: If you have the seat heater option, the ribbon runs along the left side and snakes its way to the top