Not sure why it would stay on.

I used this to hard wire my dash cam;

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515517

 

Thanks Chuck, I was considering the overhead console but changed to the fuse box. To late to go back to the console. Let me figure out which fuse is supposed to be the one going to that wire.

 

Fuse 54 is the one usually used, it's for the cigarette lighter / power outlet

 

Hi,

Would you please help me where I need to tap the Vcc and ACC? Had hard time to wire them to the fuse box in the glove box due to the small area. First I tried the fuse#32 and #31 which are for windows and heat seats as they will go off when the engine is not running. However, the dash cam doesn't shut off even if I lock the door and wait until the interior light turns off. Any idea? I want to turn the camera off when the car is not running as it will drain lots of battery.
Please help.

I just recently installed BlackVue 650 two channel with Power Magic Pro hard wire kit. There is a lot of information on Blackboxmycar.com on F10 installation. Unless you want to hard wire the system, tapping the fuse box is the way to go. In my case, I needed a permanent power source directly from the battery positive terminal and another source called "ACC" from the fuse box located in the trunk fuse box.

If you just want the dashcam to turn off when you turn off the car, I would use "cigarrett jack" fuse in the trunk fuse box. The BMW car does not cut off the power off immediately when you turn off the engine and the accessory power. Although the radio and dash lights are out, most of the accessory power stays on for 5 to 10 minutes and then goes out eventually. You just have to see for your self by waiting quietly inside the car (or outside after shutting all the doors). While you are waiting, do not touch any button, such as dome light, radio, or door light. The wait time starts all over again if you do.

This is the same reason why it's very difficult to tap the fuse box, trying to find a "permanent" power source in BMWs. You think it's on when checking with a voltmeter after the engine if off, but after certain time, it goes out. They always recommend tapping the batter directly if you want a permanent power source... Hope it helps.

 

Could you please tell us which fuse did you use for the ACC wire?

Also, are you seeing any warning messages about battery discharge when you turn the car back on?

 

Could you please tell us which fuse did you use for the ACC wire?

Also, are you seeing any warning messages about battery discharge when you turn the car back on?[/QUOTE

I used fuse number 147 for ACC wire
Because I hard wired directly from the battery, I don't get any warning message. The car does not know that the battery is being drained because it's not coming from any of the fuse box terminal.

 

Thanks a lot mkim0967. I have that option as well with my dashcam. it has 3 wires which are the permanent power, ACC and GND. I want the dashcam off when the vehicle is off so I tapped both the permanent power and Vcc together to the cigarette fuse. However, as you said, the power didn't go out right away. When I checked the recorded file in the dashcam, it took more than 30 mins after the door was locked for the dashcam to shut down the power eventually, which is too long.

 

For independent leads from the battery terminal, I'd still add a fuse really close to your tap point.

You don't want there to be any risk of pinching / shorting / etc.

 

Thank you suggesting adding an inline fuse close to positive battery terminal. I did exactly what you suggested.
I mentioned before that I have yet to see the battery drain warning. Well, few days ago, I did see it for the first time. I think I can explain why I finally saw it.
Previously, I set my Power Magic Pro to cut the power to the camera when the battery voltage reaches 12 volts or 6 hours after ignition goes out. Well, the car sits in my parking garage after coming home and spends 6 hours in "parking mode' where the battery drain is minimal, unless motion is detected and it briefly turns on for 1 minutes and goes back to "parking" mode again. Under this setting I did not get the battery drain warning in the morning.

Few days ago, I changed the setting to 12 hours time limit or 12 volts cut off. When I did that, I DID get the battery drain warning in the morning.
I believe it's because the battery did really drain close to 12 volts staying under the camera "parking mode". Even under such stand by mode, there must be a significant battery drain in 12 hour cycle. Ever since then, I no longer use the time limit on my Power magic pro. I just shut it off when the ACC goes out. Of course I can always turn it back on to 6 hour time limit mode if I were to park my car in a public place for few hours.

So, you are right about how the BMW detects battery drain no matter where the negative connection is made, because the sensor is located close to the negative terminal of the battery. I must had a wrong experience when I set my time limit to 6 hours only...

 

I followed the instructions from blackboxmycar.com to hard wire my Blackvue 650 to the fuse box in the trunk of my 2016 550ix. Worked like a champ. They have videos on YouTube as well with step by step instructions for the F10 rear fuse box .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hi Bacon, so you tapped the constant power and ACC separately to fuses on your fuse box on your 550i? then I guess you would have the battery drain issue as the dash cam goes to the parking mode when the engine is off. Still drains lots of current even if the cam has the power cut circuit when the battery voltage is below the threshold. I tied them together to the cigarette fuse as I wanted the cam shuts off when the engine is off but still it's on for more than 10~20mins even after the engine is off.

 

I used the Power Magic Pro which keeps the battery from draining and shuts off the camera when you are away from the car and the battery drops below X volts (configurable). My dash cam plugs into the cigarette lighter port of the power magic pro which is hard wired to the trunk fuse box. There are other inline power management options out there other than the Power Magic Pro device.

Like this: http://youtu.be/B-o4s7dDLac

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here's my setup. Hardwired Mobius dashcam attached with velcro to my hardwired V1. Very small footprint. 2 cables run along headliner, down A pillar, and to the fuse box. Both V1 and Mobius start automatically upon start and shut down when you turn the car off. Mobius is using a wide angle C lens with supercapacitor (no battery to get hot/explode). Smaller than a tic tac box. Total cost was around $100 for everything (mobius + hardwire cable (12v --> 5v) + 32gb SD card).

 

Here's my setup. Hardwired Mobius dashcam attached with velcro to my hardwired V1. Very small footprint. 2 cables run along headliner, down A pillar, and to the fuse box. Both V1 and Mobius start automatically upon start and shut down when you turn the car off. Mobius is using a wide angle C lens with supercapacitor (no battery to get hot/explode). Smaller than a tic tac box. Total cost was around $100 for mobius + hardwire cable (12v --> 5v) + 32gb SD card.

+1 on the 3M dual-lock
+1 on the V1 placement over the mirror, not under.
-1 on the toll tag placement.

Does the visor hit the V1 on flip-down?

 

I put my toll tag in the same place. It's behind the mirror so that I don't see it inside the car.

 

Luckily I don't hit toll that often, so my tag stays at home or in the center console. I have heard people mounting the tag on the moon roof glass with success.

Some people even paint their tags black and use the black 3m tape to mount. You can also get one of these too: [[EDIT - these forums are censoring my links]] ****!

search google for this: EZ Stealth - Ultimate Black EZ Pass/FasTrak/MetroPass Toll

 

My escort is as over the mirror as I can get. It does not touch the mirror, just barely off. The dashcam is on the other side if my mirror, completely out of my sight line. Both visors are able to flip down 100% and hold in the insulated bmw window shade. The dash cam fits in the mirror gap of the window shade. I was really lucky getting all of my accessories to fit together and play nicely.


On a side note, that front shade plus the 18% tint all around (50% front door windows) makes so much difference in the summer heat, completely worth it.

 

Here's version 2 of my install. Instead of velcro'ing camera under my V1, I used an Escort radar detector bracket that I bent to attach securely to my ezpass, and the ezpass sticks to the windshield with velcro. Camera is attached with velcro to the bracket. This is the bracket: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Permanent-W...hield-Mount-Bracket-For-Beltronics-Escort-Passport-Radar-Detector-/181171438994

Now from the inside the camera (and the ezpass) are hidden behind the passenger side of the rear view mirror, and from outside the camera blends into the black plastic of the mirror. Hard to see unless you are looking, since most people don't think twice about having an ezpass on the windshield. Power wire runs up cleanly along mirror housing, then along headliner. I put white tape on the bracket, to match the ezpass.

 

Do you have a pic of your V1 from the inside, driver's perspective??

 

See post #15. That was when I had my camera still attached to the V1.

 

Can anyone direct me to where the ground is? I do see the bolt holding down the fuse panel, but for some reason that is not working for me. Can't figure out if that's the wrong one.