PN = ?

Picture?

 

I'm a little confused why three threads, all opened today?
- Heater return pipe leak, by raiders1
- Help! Heater inlet pipe replace, by raiders1
- new to bimmerfest , heater inlet pipe, by raiders1

 

Still collecting bits and pieces for my "second-stage" cooling system overhaul. Did all of the usual bits last year, now I'm aiming to replace all the smaller heater-related hosing and was wondering, are the so-called "heater inlet pipes" on the M52TU and M54 made of steel? If yes, are they amenable to flushing & cleaning & re-use?

Part #8 (11531705210) in the realoem diagram

 

Search forum for posts by "DHoang" and "Mark@EAC".
"DHoang" posted a nice picture of #8 pipe a while back.

The 1997 and 1998 I6: #8 is steel pipe.
The only leak you will ever get is bad O-ring.

1999-2003: #8 is plastic pipe. Go figure!

 

This thread was referenced in the bestlinks I already referenced:
- Heater return pipe leak

The pictures were also re-used here:
- E39 528i Coolant. Need your help. Can't figure out.

I just added this to the bestlinks:
- Cooling system heater pipe heater core inlet return pipe leak (1) (2) (3)

How did you pull out the pipe?

 

How did you pull out the pipe?

Did you do it ??
I think I've read somewhere you can get there without removing manifold only the oil filter housing I mean the whole unit so then you can access that mine is fishy but I have to fill just little water about 100 ml or less every week so once it showing more coolant loss I'll think about changing it
Cause just seeing DIY it's a headache and I need to do it within a week cause I don't have patient and I have to take my brother spare car so I can do that Job after extensive reading about this DIY
I know how to remove throttle body and filter also alternator but we don't need to remove also power steering pump but we don't need to remove
But let me read and see the diyers advices it's really horrible
And I'll not let a mechanic do it for me as they are repairing one thing and break few things without informing you that's why Iam trying to be diyer as I changed most parts of my car
But this is the hardest as I think

 

Aw, come on ya'll.......

 

For the M62 crowd popping in here. I recently replaced my heater exchange pipe (made of rubber) on my 535.
I think it ran me about $300, part included. Apparently it's a b*#ch to get to. My indy showed me exactly where it is/was and in hindsight I'm glad he did it and not me. It's tucked hard against the firewall.

On the V8's it's a specially made piece which has a larger diameter opening at one end with a clip attached with the other being smaller plus a tight bend thrown in.

BTW, my symtoms at the time were coolant leaking at a fast rate which was replaced only for it to happen again. The car managed to limp to the indy for diagnosis/repair without anything major happening, thank god.

 

my heater exchange pipe (made of rubber) on my 535.

Thanks for that elucidation.

Since this has not yet been reported (nor photographed) in the pictorial thread on all possible cooling system failures ...
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (1)

I took the liberty of adding it, just now!

 

I replaced my heater inlet pipe on my 02 530i a few months ago, it was a pain in the ass as I had to remove the intake manifold and replace the intake manifold gaskets since it was off. It took me about 4-5 hours by myself with basic hand tools. The worst part is the end of the pipe that goes into the motor can break off upon removal and getting the broken piece out can be tricky as you don't want to use anything that can scrape or score the hole.

 

By the way can you replace plastic heater inlet pipe with previous model 97-98 model
My car say 525 model 2001 can I swap with metal pipe or it'll not fit different shape ??

 

By the way from DIY I see that no need to remove the oil filter housing , throttle body , air filter , fuel injector rail

 

i wouldnt try to replace the plastic pipe with a homemade metal pipe unless you have machine capable knowledge to fabricate, it seals in with o rings and has to be made very accurately.

 

At 190,000 miles my heater inlet pipes are leaking.

Going for:

throttle body gasket (upper and lower maf boots are new)
intake manifold gasket and orings (disa is rebuilt G.A.S)
starter
ccv
dual temp switch
heaters hoses and inlet pipes (rest of the cooling system is new)
vacuum line(s) for whatever crumbles

Does anyone recommend RTV on the orings of the inlet pipes and anything else I should replace while i'm in there such as knock sensors? Thanks in advance.

 

Don't use rtv

 

Thanks for the tip, did you replace the fuel injector orings and ping knock sensors?

In NYC I doubt we'll see negative 20 degrees, but if I ever smell gas in the cabin it may be time for the updated fuel injectors.

Does anyone know how I can confirm that I get viton orings for the bottom part of the fuel injectors?

 

Here are some things that I learned:

When the inlet pipes break in the block, use a small flat head to pull the first oring. The second oring pulled the rest of the piece out.

If you don't want to remove the positive terminal on top of the intake manifold, then place the manifold at an angle and remove the connection at the starter.

The dual coolant temp switch has a mark that makes it easy to torque. Notice the original and line up the replacement the same way. I used a 22mm oxygen sensor wrench to remove it.

Original inlet pipes, ccv, and starter had 190,700!
Cleaned icv and throttle body. Replaced all heater hoses, inlet pipes, throttle body gasket, distribution air piece orings, intake manifold gasket, ccv, starter, and dual coolant temp switch.

 

Here are some things that I learned:

When the inlet pipes break in the block, use a small flat head to pull the first oring. The second oring pulled the rest of the piece out.

If you don't want to remove the positive terminal on top of the intake manifold, then place the manifold at an angle and remove the connection at the starter.

The dual coolant temp switch has a mark that makes it easy to torque. Notice the original and line up the replacement the same way. I used a 22mm oxygen sensor wrench to remove it.

Original inlet pipes, ccv, and starter had 190,700!
Cleaned icv and throttle body. Replaced all heater hoses, inlet pipes, throttle body gasket, distribution air piece orings, intake manifold gasket, ccv, starter, and dual coolant temp switch.

Nice I've done it before it was pita have to remove intake manifold and many stuff before that throttle body disa valve air intake and filter etc....

 

somethings cost a lot to repair.. even being cheap....

time is money...

perfict pic dude... prime exsample on how its done... intake swept to the side paper towel plugs not even dissconnected...

and a good shot of the cooling hose's and how that system is routed


damn that motor!

 

ccv and hoses

Will need to do this soon, have an occasional cold rough idle, I see that you removed the inlet manifold, I don't really want to do that if it can be helped, I was thinking of going the oil filter housing removal way, do you know if the ccv job and heater hoses can be done that way too?

Cheers

 

Will need to do this soon, have an occasional cold rough idle, I see that you removed the inlet manifold, I don't really want to do that if it can be helped, I was thinking of going the oil filter housing removal way, do you know if the ccv job and heater hoses can be done that way too?

Cheers

Removing the oil filter housing will allow you to replace the ccv. I think that you will not be able to replace the inlet pipes due to the upper pipe having a 13 mm bolt right under the rear of the intake manifold gasket, and that pipe must come off first so that the bottom pipe can come out. If you do find a way to replace the inlet pipes under the intake manifold without removing the intake manifold, then please let us know how it can be done.

I replaced all of the heater valve hoses by only removing the driver side air filter cabin and the air box where the maf is connected.

These are the steps I used to remove the intake manifold: I left the disa valve on because it was already rebuilt (g.a.s)

1. Unplug the battery
2. Remove BMW cover/o2 wires, air box, driver side cabin filter cover, remove brake booster hose from the brake booster
3. Remove MAF connection, boots and vacuum lines
4. Disconnect upper ccv tube, vanos connector, air temp connector, disa connector, idle control valve connector, purge valve connector & hose, throttle body connector, rear IM sap vacuum line
5. Remove 1 bolt, 2 nuts electrical bracket 10mm
6. Remove oil dipstick bolt 13mm
7. Remove icv & throttle body (2)T40 and (4)10mm
8. Cut rear IM zip tie disconnect IM connector
9. Pry fuel rail electric box clips and remove (press clips back in to snap on later)
10. 2 air cans blow all dust under fuel rail
11. Remove 9 11mm IM bolts, remove bottom 16 mm IM bolt, remove bottom ccv hose that goes to oil dipstick
12. Disconnect fuel rail by the driver side strut tower, lift IM unhook knock sensor wire, remove positive terminal connection at the starter

 

im

Thanks for the tips mate.

 

if anyone hasn't said it do both when you're in there.

 

I seriously want to hunt down the designer that though it a great idea to run a plastic pipe along the top of the engine just under the air intake manifold, and kick him in the junk.

 

Lol... Yeah.

I feel pretty accomplished now. Nothing scares me...

 

For those of you with M54 engines, questions:

1. The in famous plastic pipes...when it fails, does it leak slowly, giving you time to add coolant and fix when you have time?
Does it ever burst with massive coolant loss?

2. Once the I.M. is off, anything else needs to be removed for this job?

3. What age/mileage did yours fail?

Thanks.

 

Related thread, this fellow (E36 forum) did the 2 plastic coolant pipes w/o removing the I.M.!!!

Replacing M54B30 Heater/Coolant Pipes; Lessons Learned

Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make...

www.bimmerforums.com

 

Yes, he says he did it with manifold on, but he also says several times that it's a bad idea to do it this way.

 

I always thought it was standard opperation, that once the plenum was off you replaced everything, unless you can account for when it was last replaced


never fond of loosing a motor because of a weird situation and a 40$ pipe failing ya know?

good picture of the belly of the m54/52

I recommend getting your intake off and giving her a good once over... at least once or twice,

*the s52/54 though

 

Having a M52, M52TU, and M54? I can say without reservation that take the intake off, learn the details about the CCV, throttle body, boots, intake vac lines, and just absorb it all. At first it is a daunting task but in the end you will be intimate with your power plant. Also, can’t beat getting those hard pipes replaced with proper clean out and o ring seat. I used RTV for lube on the rings, some say don’t, some say do, up to you.

Helps a LOT to have the Bentley, forum archives, and FCP/real.OEM.

Get yourself a smoke machine too. My ‘03 e46 ran like crap until I got a proper smoke machine and found all of the O rings that needed attention. Smoked my M20 and M52 after and they are both tight. Nothing like a solid smoke maker like the Stinger I got.

My M54 E46 has 260,000 miles on it. I did the hard pipes at 200,000K miles. They did not leak but broke apart when I touched them during the replacement. Also, the intake and valve cover gaskets were breaking at the touch and would not have survived re-installation. Went ahead and did those, coils, plugs, boots, CCV, idle control pipe, TB gasket, OEM MAF, air filter, DISA, cleaned fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel lines/clamps/rubber, steering guibo, on and on......you get the idea. Entire cooling system including radiator too.

Doing the radiator on the M52 E39 this week, always something but always a lifetime warranty on these things with FCP. No worries.

 

Thanks for the replies, I will keep an eye on these plastic pipes for now bc my 2004 X3 2.5i and 2003 325i have about 100K or so. No leak yet...

 

Delete the cvv and voila fish them out. Make sure to remove the hose as it will make it a harder job to remove and remove the panel from the fire wall and this will grant you more space.