Believe it or not there is a suggested way to remove this item...lifting from the side nearest the driver and up as tho as if it were a door...i didn't find it to work and therefore popped something. ..what ever you do make sure you use one of the interior tools to pry it up ...it's a "meany".

Sent from my SM-G531H using Tapatalk

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...repair-manuals/61-general-vehicle-electrical-system/61-31-switch-sensor/2dvft5C

 

Yes, it looks as if the factory's advice isn't correct. That big clip on the back/bottom will keep it from popping up cleanly.

Next I think I'll try (hopefully later today) "breaking" the seal all around the edges, then pushing the bezel toward the back of the car to see if that will release the front clip. If it does, then raise the front and next twist to release the back two clips. Wish me luck ...

 

Wait long enough and they pop up on their own. I karate chop mine on occasion to seat it back down.

 

Obviously yours was removed, previously, by the "use a bigger hammer" method!

 

95 318ti in Albuquerque - $800



Mine is in the same condition and comes up on me all the time.

I hope you find a method to remove it without breaking it!

 

Mine has long been broken...nevertheless it sits firmly in place...never a pain now in removing it...I dont touch the 04 or the 06[emoji51]I saw one on Ebay for 16 bucks I think...[emoji41]

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

 

No luck. It's tight-fitting in the hole, so wouldn't slide at all. Tried bending a thin piece of stainless spring-steel to wedge/angle in to unlock a latch but there wasn't even enough space to start getting it in.

So either I have to break this old bezel (have new in hand; but not my style to needlessly destroy an old part), or pull the door panel. Or do nothing for a while ...

 

I don***8217;t remember what it was ... something frustrated me on my X5 until I realized that two forces had to be applied at each spring catch. One inward to flex the spring latch against itself, and two, to lift the bezel at that spot. Then do it again at the other spring latch.

 

Don’t destroy it. It’ll come up. Use plastic tools, as Doug mentioned.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

 

Don't destroy it. It'll come up. Use plastic tools, as Doug mentioned.

Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest

Remember when I was bringing RR back to commission (see pic) this is what's used even tho this is the passenger side...don't be in a hurry...come back at it tomorrow or so. very few parts do I totally discard. [emoji848]

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

 

As my smart xxx neighbor would suggest.... "Your a BMW owner, just go get a new door".

 

Those peaces are so old that removing them w/o breaking is impossible. Id say you should remove door panel to have a better angle and underneath access.

 

Now that I think about it I don't think taking the panel off will gain you access to the switch...the switch bottom is enclosed in the arm rest section on the door.

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

 

Well ... X3 #1 has a bigger project pending first, but this switch panel's on #2 is now more complex. The door lock-button isn't popping up fully when using the key to unlock the door, so I think I will remove the door panel to inspect/grease the lock. Hopefully the switch panel will be accessible.

 

The door lock-button isn't popping up fully when using the key to unlock the door, so I think I will remove the door panel to inspect/grease the lock. Hopefully the switch panel will be accessible.

Yes,,,now you will have to remove the panel to address the button you've mentioned above.
(I too was bothered by the lock button not moving fully up at one point in a repair) the button is attached to a long slender rod (12-18 inches) that rod is moved up and down by the doors actuator . the problem I had was that once I was finished with the repair (airbag)...I had somehow screwed it in to its pin connection too much so as to not have an unobstructed way up through the door panel square opening. where the rod connects to the actuator turn the full rod clock wise or is it counter clockwise...you'll figure it out good luck.[emoji41]

Sent from my SM-J727T using Tapatalk

 

Done!

Just did this job on X3 #2, after finishing its driveshaft's giubo and center support bearing, and an oil and filter change.

Getting the door panel off was interesting due to all the wires. Had to disconnect the battery (for the first time, I think) and let it sit because the side airbag needed disconnecting (interesting connector; search Youtube for the video of the guy attaching and unattaching the same type of connector on a BMW's steering wheel's bag).

Boy, was that old switch panel in there tight! Had to use a chisel to whack-off the front clip that was jammed (from underneath, with the panel off), then pry the panel up. Cleaned the switch assembly, and reinstallation of the switches, now in the new panel, went well.

The vapor barrier, on the inside of the door, is still well-sealed. The front bin was loose from the door panel, though, so Duco-cemented it back into place.

Oiled-up all the now-expose locking mechanisms and cables, and then reinstalled the door panel. Reattached the battery ... and ... no locks! Turned the car on and off, and reset the steering angle sensor (lock-to-lock of the steering wheel, with it running and front jacked up off the ground), and the 4x4 symbol went away. Then the locks started working again. Seem to have fixed the weak lock-pop! (When using the key in the door)