BMW Forum - BimmerFest BMW Forums banner

M50B25 hesitation when accelerating

5.4K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  ta2cj  
#1 ·
Hi,

I have some questions to the smarter ones. So the car is bmw e36 with the swapped m50b25tu in it. When I first bought it, it came without O2 sensor, so I decided to buy a new one Bosch and plug it in. But it changed nothing tbh.

So, I have never realised until now, that my car runs great only when just started up/cold. When the temp hits 90, the rpm rises a good 150-200 rpm, rev hang appears between shifts and car starts hesitating when accelerating. Sometimes it hesitates when cold too, but when its cold, the rpm is great and there is no rev hang.

I am tired of this shit and its not a pleasure to drive that car anymore with this problem. Its been for a loooong time now. But yesterday was my happiest day ever I think.

I was driving my car like usual, but when the fuel gauge light came on, that there is not much fuel left in the tank, my car was accelerating like it always should! No hesitation at all, it only goes faster and faster through the whole rpm range, and it is what I want always to happen when I drive this car. The rpm was still 150-200 higher than it should and rev hang was there between shifts, but atleast it went hard when I pressed the gas pedal!!!!

So my questions are-

How can I check if my O2 senor works properly? Cuz it does nothing when I unplug it and it changed absolutely nothing when I first plugged it in.

Can DME cause a problem like that?

So now I had an idea after yesterdays great day. Maybe the car somehow runs too rich when there is a lot of fuel in the car so the ecu reads it and rises up the rpm, and thats why there is rev hang and hesitation when accelerating. But I dont know if the problem is really in it and how to get rid of it.

The fact that this car ran without O2 sensor before seems weird to me. O2 sensor is the first thing that I want to check and now I really feel that the mixture it too rich and it gets too much fuel.

So, every information will be useful I think. Help me to makenme happy again 😃
 
#2 ·
Scan the DME for error codes. If it's running rich or lean out if range it should have a code stored. If unplugging the O² sensor does nothing, something is wrong with the DME. Unplugging the O² sensor should generate a CEL.

Fuel level in the tank should have zero influence on how the engine operates.
 
#3 ·
It has never given me a CEL with any engine problem, even when I dont put the seat belt on the seat belt warning still disappears, so I dont know what is going on with it. Im gonna try another DME on monday, so I can cross it out of the list if thats not it.

I dont know then why my car runs like it should when the tank is almost empty..

But how should I try my O2 without reading it with computer? Can I test the connector with voltmeter, is it even giving some signal or not? Relay?

It must be something with the sensors, cuz I feel the car has the power in it, so it cant be mechanical, something is just holding it back and raising the rpm, strange…
 
#4 ·
the car runs better when cold cuz the engine is in open loop, DME is running a set mixture map til the car warms up enough to go in to closed loop, when the feedback from the 02 is used to adjust the mixture. i dont know what was done to shut off your CEL, but it will be interesting out find out what someone did. when turning the car on, before turning the car to the start position, does the CEL illuminate?
 
#5 ·
The difference between cold and warmed up car performance cant be that big. I tried driving another 325i and it was killin it the same way doesnt matter is the car cold or warmed up.

But I dont have explanation for the night, when my car was warmed up, the fuel level was low and the car was accelerating like it was cold 🤯

Yea everything illuminates before start up and then dissapears, I can disconnect every sensor and the CEL never comes on lol. Gotta dig a little bit more into it.

I dont really know what to watch for anymore..
 
#7 ·
what was the original engine before the swap?

" So now I had an idea after yesterdays great day. Maybe the car somehow runs too rich when there is a lot of fuel in the car so the ecu reads it and rises up the rpm, and thats why there is rev hang and hesitation when accelerating. But I dont know if the problem is really in it and how to get rid of it."
the DME does not change rpm based on the fuel mixture, only time it does is when the car is in open loop (cold) then reverts to normal control when it hits closed loop temp.
i understand your frustration here, but were not getting much to go on.
 
#8 ·
Originally its 318i 85kw. It’s really something with rpm too. When I first start the car up, the rpms are high as they should be, and then when I drive like for a minute or two and stop, the rpms are low as they should be and cars engine works stable and slowly. No rev hang too before the car warmed up.

And now, once the car is warmed up, everything happens. When car stays on place, rpm is similar as I just started it up, high and engine works fast, and when I change gears rev hang appears. And the hesitation when accelerating kills me…

I’ve watched for air leaks with carb cleaner, changed O2, some boots, intake seals, watched for cracks and found none, changed the cps, tried another dme, tried another maf, tried another icv, compression is good too, plugs changed not long ago.

I even tried to get help from professionals and got charged for a good amount of money for nothing.

So, what can be the next step :)

I think I will take the intake off once again to check for air leaks and sensor connections..
 
#9 ·
rev hang can be caused by a clutch pedal switch not working.
as to the rest, as you have the CEL when switching on the power before starting, but dont ever get the CEL by disconnecting sensors, im at a loss. did you ever try disconnecting the MAF when disconnecting sensors?? did you ever scan for codes as in post #2?
 
#13 ·
I dont know, I dont want to sel my car or change the engine just cuz of this bs.. It has to do something with electronics, sensors or air leak, there is no way the problem is the the plugs, injectors or coils.

If I compare to my other 36 that is m52b28, the idle stays always stable 650 on it, doesnt matter if its cold or warmed up, the rpms drop fast and it accelerates absolutely the same doesnt matter cold or hot. But now the m50 I have, stays 650 rpms when cold and 900 when warmed up, u can hear the engine working louder. Accelerates like god when cold and like shit when warmed up. It is not normal!!!!!

Im tired of diagnosing this bs. Car runs the same, with o2 sensor plugged in or plugged out, doest matter, isnt it strange?

If I squeeze the hose that goes from a crankcase ventilation to the intake elbow, the rpms drop slightly. I dont know how to describe it anymore, cant find any airleaks with brake cleaner too… MAYBE SOMEBODY, has the experience dealing with this shit, give me some advice or even ideas, im going to start from beginning anyways to find the problem, so ANY good idea is welcomeeeed. Also, when I turn off the car, it shuts off rougly and does huge PSHHH sound. Added photo of o2 and exhaust tests, i been told that its not normal. Car is without catalytic converter.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
I have m50b25 and I have a similar problem, the difference is that mine doesn't do it when cold or warm but just randomly out of nowhere it just idles rough/pull bad. Things I've replaced without luck Tps, o2 sensor, sparkpluggs, ignition coils, camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, maf, replaced the hoses in between the icv and replaced the hoses from crankcase ventilation to the elbow. Also Noone is able to read the car with diagnostic tools not even a bmw expert. Things I'm still considering replacing are the fuel pump and the injectors not that I think it will help. Sorry I can't offer any help but you're not alone
 
#17 ·
Umudumu yitirdim ve sonra bir şey daha denedim. Tüm vakum hortumlarını, icv'yi, gaz kelebeği gövdesini vb. çektim. 318i'den gaz pedalı kablosu vardı ve onu 325i orijinal ile değiştirdim. Yani icv iyiydi, her şey düzgün bir şekilde hareket etti. Hortumlar da iyiydi, ama şimdi biraz sıkılaştırıcı (ya da siz nasıl adlandırırsanız) ekledim ve her hortum bağlantısını gerektiği gibi sıktım. Motor sıcakken rölantiyi 1100'den 650'ye sabitlemeye yardımcı olan şeyin gaz kelebeği gövdesindeki rölanti ayar vidası olduğunu düşünüyorum!

Gaz kelebeği gövdesinin tamamen kapalı olduğunu gördüm ama içerideki klapeyi ayarlamaya çalıştığımda biraz hareket edip biraz daha kapandı. Bundan sonra rölanti 1100'den 650'ye çıktı ve her zaman 650 oldu. Bu yüzden bundan gerçekten çok mutluyum!

Hızlanma konusunda - Sanırım biraz yardımcı oldu, ancak daha sonra vanos contalarını değiştirmek istiyorum ve o zaman araba mükemmel olacak, %100 eminim!

İyi şanlar!
[/ALINTI]
Merhaba. M52B28'imde tamamen aynı sorunu yaşadım. Sabit ayar civatası ile gaz kelebeğini biraz açtığımda düzeldi. Daima sevgiyle kalın.