Please read through all the messages. Not just the echoes. Then ask how many verifiable discrete engine failures due to timing chain failure have occurred. And finally compare that number to the number of N20 engines produced worldwide since it's introduction. Converted to a decimal I suspect there will be many zeroes before encountering a non zero value.

 

Verifiable discrete failures are crucial, unfortunately that data is not easily collected(and any data from BMW is proprietary and confidential).

As far as many zeros, in a way the defective airbag scenario is similar, the observed failure also had many zeros worldwide, until some independent labs did the testings.

 

not my first choice to buy out with my own money after 60k.

 

Another non N20 owner trying to spread false news

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To OP, if N20 engine is the only concern, one option is to skip CPO and just purchase OEM 7-yr/100k Powertrain ESC, the MSRP for mine is $2320, and one probably can get one for less than $2000. The Powertrain ESC covers anything related to power delivery, including engine, transmission, final drive, electrical, cooling and fuel systems. One caveat is that OEM ESC only extended for another 3 years max, plus the aggregate payout cap(common in all ESCs) probably will not cover whole engine replacement if that does happen.

My take is that the N20 timing chain is not really doom and gloom, but rather another item to pay attention to. Since your car is owned/leased since day 1, the engine sound is probably second nature to you, so any abnormal whining should be readily noticeable. If your engine still revs smoothly and quietly without whine, then the chance of imminent failure will be low.

 

OP: You should be able to verify if your engine is one of the series that had the faulty timing belt guide. If you are, then they will replace it FOC. Once this is sorted the engine should be pretty good as BMW have used this engine in a considerable number of markets in the world and the general feeling from both users and the service agents appears to be that they are very reliable.

I have had 3 vehicles with the N20, 2012 528i (40K miles) , 2013 X1 (35K miles, my wife's car) and, currently, a 2015 428i GC (currently 28K miles). The engines in these vehicles has never given me any problems. Oil usage was almost zero and there were no other issues identified or corrected. Apart from the fact that it is rather noisy (that diesel like clatter at idle!!) the engine appears to be bomb proof.

If you like the car and do not mind paying a little over the top when you purchase off lease (the penalty you pay for knowing the car's history) then I would go for it. In fact I am about to do the same thing myself when my car comes to the end of the lease, even though it is not the cheapest way to acquire a BMW, I love the car!!

 

"My engine has never given me any issues at 28k"

Are you for real man? That's like super low mileage...

Whether the engine burns oil or not depends if the engine was properly broken in when new or not.

 

"My engine has never given me any issues at 28k"

Are you for real man? That's like super low mileage...

Whether the engine burns oil or not depends if the engine was properly broken in when new or not.

Again no facts to back up your assertion. I always broke my cars in according to the factory recommendations and never had an issue with burning oil but there are plenty of folks with the same results who did the hard break in.

 

So What would dictate whether an engine burns oil or not?
Some burn lots, other burn zero. I've never had to top up oil ever.

 

Who knows? But the huge majority burn little or no oil. It's common online to lose perspective.

 

63,000 miles, no problems other than the thermostat being replaced under recall.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

Break-in is mostly a hold over tradition from the past when materials and methods were rather crude. With today's advanced materials, machining and manufacturing and internal components with engineered surface finishes and because modern piston ring manufacturing includes lapping each ring to the engine's bore diameters, it really doesn't make a lot of difference anymore how you break in the engine. Though it is recommended to take it easy for the first few hundred miles I don't think you could hurt anything by driving it like you normally would right away. Probably lots of folks do.

I think it makes a lot of sense to consider your option to buy the car at lease end. If the car has had lots of problems you'll probably be happy to turn it in. You know the car's complete history and how every mile was put on which you would not know buying someone else's car. In the OP's case with his low miles and trouble free history he'll still be buying his car at the residual value which will probably be less than it's true value.

We currently have two BMW's; a 2016 N63TU with 4K miles and a 2015 with 20K miles on an N20. I'm accustomed to how the engines sound and run and I feel like I'll know right away if anything changes. Someone advised me recently it is possible to see the timing chain and ends of the chain guides through the oil filler but I've not looked yet to confirm that. If true it might be adviseable to take a look at it every few K or so.

 

You know the car's complete history and how every mile was put on which you would not know buying someone else's car.

I'm accustomed to how the engines sound and run and I feel like I'll know right away if anything changes.

These two points are why buying out your car after lease may be a good idea. I did it after my first car came off lease. Or just lease again.

 

The 6 cylinder n55 is more reliable.

 

Do check out bmwtechnician site, N55 is well represented there too:

https://bmwtechnician.com/?s=n55

 

I'm a pilot (4 seater aircraft) and the 4 and 6 cylinder piston aircraft engine break in procedures are quite strict. The aircraft owners who have engine problems quite frequently did not break in the engine properly. I assume the same could be said for automobiles.

The following probably is a good rule of thumb for automobile engines. I followed this procedure for my 2017 X3 N20 engine. I drove 250 miles in one trip at a constant RPM setting and speed recommended in the BMW owners manual. I try to avoid short trips on a new automobile engine. I now have 57k on it without any noticed oil consumption. The dealer tech said some oil consumption is normal and is used to lubricate the turbos.

"A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings.

The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs."

 

I'm a long time car driver who enjoys extracting as many miles as possible from his cars. My other car has 220k miles and I fully expect to top 300k. The secret is following the manufacturers recommendations for break-in, service interval, oil type, etc. And fixing problems before they become serious.