Mitchell Pro demand lists the labor as 30 hours, Alldata lists the labor at 35 hours (don't have access to the actual FRU that BMW charges right now) The work procedure does not involve removing the engine from the car. There is no way to prove the failure 100% without major disassembly,

 

Thanks for the info. Definitely a labor intensive job! Unfortunately, I am gauging this info for my warranty. I am expecting push back with disassembly to prove failure, even if it is obviously valve stems.

 

Good Q. Would like to know also

 

Great question. I'd like to know too but sure that it varies by engine. What do you have so other can weigh in?

E60 550i

 

Last year I was quoted $2200 from my local BMW Indi. I'm not sure if he drops the engine or does it engine in the car. The most common way is to drop the engine and pull the heads. But I believe that would cost upwards of $4k.. I did mine myself with the AGA valve stem tool kit I rented for $175. It took me about 24 hours since I had not done it before. The project went well. And cost me about $300 including the tool rental

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Last year I was quoted $2200 from my local BMW Indi. I'm not sure if he drops the engine or does it engine in the car

Hope that mechanic workshop did not rip you off successfully.

 

I just finished the job using the Aga tool and 30-40 hours seems about right and if the mechanic hasn't done it before it could take them well over. If they've done it a few times and nothing goes wrong (dropping a keeper and not being able to find it for hours...), they could probably do it in half the time.

Having said that, I think if I had a lift cart and a 2 post lift and I had to do it again, I would drop the engine and use the Aga tool and probably be done in 10-20 hours not a problem. But I don't think most mechanics would have a lift cart.

So it all varies.

 

I did the job myself

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If you remove the intake you can see down into the intake valves. I just pulled my N62 out of my E63. When I pulled it my friend that drives a dragster (rebuilds his engine every 80 runs) looked down in and told me which ones were leaking. I can pull my intake in about 20 minutes, but I have done it many times over the last 10 years. First time probably took me a couple of hours.

 

That would only let you see the intake valves though. Not the exhaust valves. I guess if you can visually confirm that some of the valve stem seals are leaking, it might be enough for the warranty company to approve the work.

 

Sorry my knowledge is more on the wrenching side than the warranty side. Best of luck!

 

After you get all of the plastic out of the way, you disconnect about 12 of the engine wiring harness connections and pull it out of the way. Disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line (2 seconds, there's a quick connect right next to the rail) Then it's 10 or 12 small nuts and it pulls right out with the rail, injectors and all. You need to replace the intake gaskets (one per cylinder) when you reinstall, but those are the only parts I think. Probably pays 3 hours or so?

I'll look it up later if I think about it. I'll be in the garage today. Getting my block back and starting to rebuild my engine

 

30 hours book time for a shop because they do not want to use the tools. That’s what BMW and my indy shop once told me. A private mechanic typically charges $2,500 for the VSS job on the N62 and can be done in two days. If you do get this done, have them replace the left and right timing covers. It’s an extra 30 minutes of work for each side.


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I have the dealer investigating on the best approach. If this does end up at the dealer and goes for the 30+ hour engine removal, what would you guys recommend to get replaced? I have the starter on my list.

 

They will still find ways to charge you extra and pay you BMW cost. I would let them complete the work separately. That way they can't blame other work on future issues.

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Bmw pulls the heads thats your 30 hours


lol they dont even do that... cause they aint got anyone in house who even knows how to do that anymore

 

Bmw pulls the heads thats your 30 hours

lol they dont even do that... cause they aint got anyone in house who even knows how to do that anymore

i was just thinking that. These techs look half slow. Ugh, so confused - I need to reach out to more trusted Indy shops.

 

Looking back over this post. It is very easy to inspect the CCV diaphragms. When they tear or harden they can mimic the same symptoms as failed valve stem seals. Takes about an hour tops to inspect and replace. I have gone through 4-5 sets of CCV diaphragms on my N62. Each time they tore or hardened I had smoke. Smoke disappeared after replacement. I am on original valve stem seals at 178,000 miles. Start with inspecting the CCV diaphragms. There is also a “get what you pay for” difference in those diaphragms. If you decide on VSS replacement you can rent the tools for $250 and do it yourself.

The dealership by me supposedly analyzes the exhaust to see if oil is being burned. They use the computer report to tell you that your VSS are leaking. All great except the oil being burned is often coming from the failed CCV.


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Looking back over this post. It is very easy to inspect the CCV diaphragms. When they tear or harden they can mimic the same symptoms as failed valve stem seals. Takes about an hour tops to inspect and replace. I have gone through 4-5 sets of CCV diaphragms on my N62. Each time they tore or hardened I had smoke. Smoke disappeared after replacement. I am on original valve stem seals at 178,000 miles. Start with inspecting the CCV diaphragms. There is also a "get what you pay for" difference in those diaphragms. If you decide on VSS replacement you can rent the tools for $250 and do it yourself.

The dealership by me supposedly analyzes the exhaust to see if oil is being burned. They use the computer report to tell you that your VSS are leaking. All great except the oil being burned is often coming from the failed CCV.

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Thanks for the reply. I have replaced the CCV and entire hose. All OEM. The car WAS smoking before all this was replaced. Indy put in additive to stop smoke. After recent oil change, not really smoking. So I should drive some more miles to see if it was the CCV all along, OR the indeed the VSS. Just created this thread for research on the approach of the VSS job - incase I need to get this addressed.

 

lol no they arent half slow.. they are full slow, I walk circles around all of them

Ive got a few dealers that call me in for some hard technical stuff, couple of indys that call me for assistance every once in a while, Ive got a large automotive family,

 

lol no they arent half slow.. they are full slow, I walk circles around all of them

Ive got a few dealers that call me in for some hard technical stuff, couple of indys that call me for assistance every once in a while, Ive got a large automotive family,

The turnover at dealers is crazy. Dealers have a small group of devoted staff.

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I know... thats why i never worked for dealers,

 

Just a update on this: After speaking with indy shops and warranty, for any claims on these VSS, (N62,N63) they have the shop follow certain procedures. (Those of which are in a BMW SB) They want to test "Crankcase Ventilation System Diagnosis and Measurement" and do Oil consumption tests . (No way around it, according to the claims adjustor for these types of complaints)

Then, I am sure they will still need proof, and I may have to authorize tear down - not sure. But seeing the smoke out the tail pipe after idle will obviously not be enough to get them on board, even if the CCV pipe and valves are not the cause.

But, I have been advised valve guides/stems/seals whatever are a covered item. Warranty is good, no BS from previous claims.
I will still need to proceed with caution, if intend move forward and plan to not have the car it for over a month. Mainly, the indy shop seems competent in working on these and dealing with such warranties lingo. Definitely do NOT want my local dealer doing this, simply because I do not trust them with such a large job.