If the leak isn't terrible I would first try to seal with ATP AT-205 reseal.

It dropped my engine oil leak 70-80%. I still need to replace my OFHG but now I can do it at my convenience.

I've disconnected a few axles at the dif and can't imagine it would be in the way of pulling out the diff, the only caveat is, that when removing the rear drive shaft from the TC side I had to unbolt the CSB to bend the shaft out of the way so depending if you can move the dif back enough you'd probably have to remove the drive shaft but that's an easy job.

Find a YouTube video doing the dif swap and I'm betting it is in your favor.

 

It’s a pretty bad leak, the stupid shop reused the old seals when they put in the used differential.

I’ll look into that product, is it just an additive to put in the differential fluid?

I’ve seen some driveshaft removal videos for the X5 and a rookie one for rear axles, couldn’t find any for differential removal but I’ll look again, maybe I was too specific in my search.

Cheers


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It’s quite a job on the e70. For starters; the exhaust is in the way, and removing it required a lift. Its nozzles are stuck inside the rear bumper, not under, so is has to come out at a steep angle.

The axles are stuck in the diff, not bolted on. Suspension on one side has to be detached and “swung up” to create clearance. Then the driveshaft; is has that huge 50mm reverse nut. Not your average diy job.

I’d find a shop with experience with this sort of e70 setup. Some limited slip differentials racing specialist is probably a better choice than even a reputable bmw indy.


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Ya, I’m thinking it’s a massive job the more I look. The axles with no bolts to remove/separate the shafts is what has me worried.

I was originally thinking to come at it from either side and remove the axles first, then the differential, but now I’m thinking I might just leave the old differential in there, pull the axles and replace the seals on the differential that’s in there. (I thought it was bad, but shop put wrong fluid in it and since I changed to proper fluid the vibration is now gone, just have the one leaking seal.

Shop does sound like a good idea, I have the cash, just don’t have a reliable trustworthy shop, dealership is a fucken joke, they only throw new parts at problems, last shop put in a used differential and reused the old seals, like wtf!! Another shop missed a bunch of stuff on pre purchase inspection, only one shop left to try.


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Ah only a leaking output seal, not the driveshaft. That should be doable on the car. Pushing axle out and back in the hub requires special tools though, and the axle nut can be a pain too (wonder how I know?) If diy, be prepared.


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Ya I ordered the tools to remove and also install the axles. I’m a level 1 HD mechanic so I know some stuff, but this is definitely one of my bigger jobs I’ll be attempting.
These jobs are ALWAYS bigger than I think....lol


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Resealing snake oil is of little use if the seal was damaged during the previous job. It’s all too easy to take a bite out of an old somewhat hard seal when removing or installing axles. (Again,ask me how I know...)


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That's very true. Recall I did say minor leak which won't be the case if there is a bite missing.

 

It was for me. Just a very small leak from a bite by one of the splines.didn’t see it at first, only upon scrutiny. When fighting with the axle, and when working without a 2$ red installation guiding ring, this happens.

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The shop that did mine is horrible, I would assume they ripped the seal. Do you know where I can get those installation guiding ring(Canada)? Are they a universal thing or bmw specific?


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Bmw dealer only.
Nr 10 here

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts X5 E70 X5 4.8i Differential-drive/output

www.realoem.com

Apparently the front is cheaper than the rear.


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I don’t see it?


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Ah my link is not behaving right. Nr 10 next to the oil bottle in your upper picture.


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Lmao, I’m so blind, I even looked at it and was like wtf is that thing, my differential doesn’t have one of those[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23].
Thanks [emoji109]


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In case you did not find the instructions; Install seal in the diff with the ring closed in it. Then open the ring up, install the axle so far that the splines have well cleared the seal, then slide back the ring a bit and pull it out, it’ll break open as intended. Then install axle all the way until it snaps in place.


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Perfect, thanks for that info. I never used them before so that helps a lot.

I was just looking under the vehicle and I’m still not sure if I should just replace the seal, or the whole differential since I just bought a used one for it. I bought new axles as well because the last time the differential was replaced they said the axle was destroyed by the differential when it blew up, but then when I got the car back they said they were able to use the old axle, so I’m thinking that axle might be causing the issues or at least contributing.
Anyways. It looks like if I go at the job from the sides and remove wheels/hub/etc, then axles (I have the special tools), then disconnect driveshaft, then the differential (supported by Jack) should drop right down and exhaust isn’t in the way.

Am I missing anything, does driveshaft need anything special? I’ve heard “in phase/phases” but I don’t know what that means. Or bolt we all up and she’s good to go?

Cheers


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I think your entire swear vocabulary will be used in that job. To access the driveshaft you need to remove heatshields, and to access those the exhaust has to go, and unless you have a lift the rear bumper has to come off. You’ll break a few clips and scratch the bumper.

Then the 50mm nut of the shaft; you need to block the shaft at the u joint, NOT at that huge multipoint nut thing at the diff, like you see in some youtube movies. You risk f ing up the pre tension. The 50mm nut is screwed onto the shaft, not the diff. That determines lefty loosy direction. The shape of the nut is misleading.

I could go on, but don’t remember all details. NewTIS is closed. But I read the sections multiple times before deciding to let someone else remove and revise my diff. It was whining a bit.


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Thanks, ya I’m going to find a shop to do that job. I have enough stuff in my life to swear at right now...lol

Cheers, I appreciate the input


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So I looked at the reviews on Amazon for that seal fixing additive. I’m super sceptical of snake oil treatments for cars, I’ve tried a bunch over the years and they’ve never worked, but hey why not try $10 before spending thousands.

Anyways I bought some AT 205, removed 4oz oil and put in the AT 205. Cleaned area well with brake cleaner. That was yesterday and i don’t see oil leaking today so fingers crossed. (I’ll update if it leaks)

Because the differential had previously blown, and was installed by a shit shop and leaking seal from day one, I’ve assumed the vibration is coming from that, the dealership (first/last time I’ve ever taken my car there) also said it was the differential, most likely due to the leak, I know they didn’t inspect it.

But there is no strange noises coming from the differential and the vibration/shudder I feel seems to only be when I first start driving. I’ve also noticed the issue started to happen in the last few months. Well in the last few months I put on my winter tires which are oem rims with run flat tires, there wasn’t a problem right away when I switched them, but I’m thinking it may be due to the cold weather forming flat spots in the tires overnight on cold nights, then once the tires warm up the vibration goes away.
Has anyone experienced that with their tires?
Could that be it?
What else could cause a vibration only for the first kilometre then goes away?
Could cold oil in the differential cause that?

Cheers


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Would be nice to know what actually vibrates. The vibration analysis app I mentioned in other posts can help there. Look it up.

A shit shop can destroy a diff on installation, by f ing up the pre tension on the pinion gear and bearing (i the way I mentioned above).


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What’s the “vibration analysis app”? I remember you mentioning the pinion, but not an app
Cheers


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Other thread.


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For low frequency

‎Vibration Isolator Pro

‎Vibration Isolator Pro helps you to easily find the correct anti-vibration mounting for your application. Thanks to the built-in accelerometers of your mobile, Vibration Isolator Pro measures the vibration that your machine produces and determines the most suitable antivibration mount according...

apps.apple.com

For higher frequency

‎FFT

‎FFT is a high-resolution audio analysis tool for the iPhone and iPod touch. It uses the Fast Fourier Transform to analyze incoming audio, and displays a very detailed graph of amplitude vs. frequency. Use this app with the built-in iOS device microphone, or upgrade to our iAudioInterface2 or...

apps.apple.com

My car's are leaking half to 3/4 less oil since I put in the 205. The difference was immediate.

Report back if the leak slows to manageable

Regarding flat spots on tires. Very common in winter in Wisconsin. "D shaped" tires that turn round after driving a bit. It's going to be close to zero F tomorrow I'll see if I have the situation on either of our cars. My car has winter tires so softer rubber less likely to dent but wife's has "3-season" (what most people call all season) tires that with firmer rubber likely will have flat spots for a while when first driving.

 

Cheers, thanks Andrew.

The 205 seems to be working pretty good. I added a few more oz’s and left it overnight, then changed the oil before I drove.

I live on a highway, with no entrance speed up lane so I have to punch it right away. I’ve heard people talk about how the tires can create a vibration after cold nights, then goes away once warmed up. It could be due to cold engine and hard acceleration from what I’ve read, and since I only get the vibration in the first few kilometres I drive, and not every day, it’s most likely one of those issues I mentioned above. I’m going to let the car warm up more and rule that out next.

Cheers


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A hard core test you could also put the car on jack stands overnight but I also have noticed many times that do to sidewall stiffness and more importantly shock oil viscosity change with cold temps, a car will find all sorts of ways to jiggle and shake at extremely cold temps (like today at -9F=-23c).