First one IS Pa Soft.


Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

Yes, correct.

The INPA software can be downloaded from the link in the first posting in this thread: **Mike's Easy BMW Tools Package**

 

While awaiting parts, a quick if not 100% absolute proof test: when cranking the engine, does the tachometer needle move, and if so, consistently? If not, that definitely points to faulty crankshaft position sensor.


Via the interwebs

 

While awaiting parts, a quick if not 100% absolute proof test: when cranking the engine, does the tachometer needle move, and if so, consistently? If not, that definitely points to faulty crankshaft position sensor.
Via the interwebs

Thanks for pointing this out. Good advise.
The tachometer needle is not moving at all when cranking. I just tested it now and made a movie of the crank-no-start party. I tried to attach it, but MP4 was rejected by this site. Which format is acceptable to upload?
This further points toward the crankshaft position sensor and I will go ahead and source one while we wait for the scanner(s) to arrive.
Part #12141709616, right?

 

The scanner will find an error code to confirm -or not- a bad sensor.
Buy only BMW oem stamped sensors. Do not take a chance with cheaper after-market or used sensors.

 

I don’t own a parts cannon but I wouldn’t hesitate to install a crank sensor. Agree with Cheddar, OE or OEM.*

That said I installed a Hella CKP sensor on mine as a guinea pig test and it’s been fine for 10k miles.

I replaced mine from underneath in about 15 minutes, but I don’t know about your engine. If you can avoid removing the intake, do so.


Via the interwebs

 

I agree with the boys up, sensors only bmw OE. not even OEM. I changed mine camshafts one as preventive maintenance and after 1000 km it started acting up and after 2000 km died. Went to the junkyard, pulled a BMW stamped one and after 3 years and 35000 km it is still going.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

While we are waiting for the scanner I have jumped the gun and ordered a crankshaft sensor (#8 + #9). The real deal made by VDO in Germany for $60, not a Chinese knockoff.
A 2 1/2 tons jack and 2 stand are also coming, as I guess the only way to find the home of this nemesis is from under the car.

 

Good choice, just make sure you get the old o'ring out and the new one in.
The old o'ring sometimes doe's not come out when you remove the sensor and you need to fish it out. A touch of lube on the new one will help to ease it in.

 

Shame about the tachometer test, but salvation is slowly arriving.
The OBD scanner has cleared customs and is on last mile delivery. Should arrive any day now.
The INPA and PA Soft cables are still a week or more away.

 

Like I posted earlier in this thread, from what I have read, if you connect your code reader and set it to read rpms, supposedly you will see an rpm reading on the reader when starting. I have not tried it as my car is parked at work and I am super busy. Someone with a handheld reader should try it.

 

Now that is something worth trying because that data is straight from the DME...and OP should have their scanner today.

 

The OBD little wonder has arrived.
Any hints as what to look for? Do a system scan or manually go through the 31 diagnostic options?
Erase fault codes?
This is the first time the car have been connected to such a device, so old errors might still linger in the system.
Interesting, the EGS Transmission Control diagnose will not connect, while the others read fine. What can this tell us?

 

System Scan with the OBD scanner.

 

Show the DTC codes, ECM Engine Control Module shows 12. What ever you do, do not erase them.

 

Below are the 12 fault codes from the ECM module:
They are not dated so how to know what is current? Throttle is mentioned, but I had a throttle cable stuck and replaced about 5 years ago. Could that be it.

 

Last 3 fault codes.

 

Is the EML light illuminated.

 

No EML light as far as I can see.

 

The 3 below might be old:
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit
P1622 MAP Cooling Control Circuit Electrical
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit

The 3 below might be the problem:
P0600 Serial Communication Link
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0608 Control Module VSS Output "A"

You sure that battery is in tip top shape. I would charge the battery, make sure it is good to go. Clear the codes and try starting it, but I'm not stuck on an island in Indonesia.

That Starting Fluid ship arrive yet?


What happens when you press that DTC button on the scanner.

 

The 3 below might be old:
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit
P1622 MAP Cooling Control Circuit Electrical
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit

The 3 below might be the problem:
P0600 Serial Communication Link
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0608 Control Module VSS Output "A"

You sure that battery is in tip top shape. I would charge the battery, make sure it is good to go. Clear the codes and try starting it, but I'm not stuck on an island in Indonesia.

That Starting Fluid ship arrive yet?

What happens when you press that DTC button on the scanner.

Battery charger is still a few days from arriving, but at 12.3 V we should still be good.
I ran the DTC scan and got the following:

 

Isn't it a bit peculiar that the OBD scanner will not run the EGS Transmissio Control diagnostic?
After all I have the Trans Failsafe Prog error.
Maybe the transmission is actually damaged?
The jack and stands will arrive this afternoon, maybe time to have a closer look of what is going on under the car.

 

The Bimmer is off the ground and I am on the ground.
Transmission does appear a bit wet, but otherwise undamaged. Is it possible to check the oil level and top it up from below?
Regular ATF oil I assume.
Not much space to maneuver under the car.

 

Over time any kind of leak works its way all over things on the bottom, you need to clean everything to see where a leak is actually coming from unless it gets really bad.

There is no dipstick so trans work has to be done from underneath. There are a lot of diy's online but for starters you need to be able to raise the whole car high enough to comfortably get to the trans and it has to be level.

 

Ok, after looking at the picture of your engine bay and zooming in, 2 things stand out. Firstly, there is no 20 pin diagnostic port on the passenger side of your engine bay. You need that port to hook up your diagnostic tool to read/clear Transmission codes on an M52TUB engine, again as I posted earlier, it's odd that you have an M52TUB engine in a 2002 model year E39.
Secondly, the routing for the MDK throttle body cable is totally rigged up weird and looks to be a lot longer than my throttle body cable, if routed correctly, it is pretty much hidden. Yours is totally visible and it is routed through the middle of the firewall plastic cover.
I think someone put an M52TUB engine in your car and somehow got it to run with the MS43 bmw dme for an M54, or they put the MS42 bmw dme in it and got it to work. In a 2001 and onward E39, you can read all codes from the diagnostic port underneath the dash, up to the 2000 year, you need a 20 pin diagnostic cable to hook up to the 20 pin connector underneath the bonnet to read the transmission codes.

This is a picture of where the diagnostic port is located on all e39 models up to 2000, you do not have one of these. The M52TUB needs this port.

You need to post the Vin number of your car, I bet your car had an M54 engine originally and a ZF transmission if it truly is a 2002 E39.

 

I have looked far and wide for the VIN number, but can't find it. It is certainly not at the windscreen or door pillar.
I did enter the hidden tests in the instrument cluster to see if it was listed there and found some codes. Not sure if they are of any help.The date 36/2001 is listed, but isn't that just the cluster manufacturing date?
There was also an reset option, so is it time to reset the faults or wait for the other cables to arrive first?
What is the consensus? You guys are the authority on this.

 

Look on top of the strut tower under the hood, you’ll find the VIN there and also on the drivers side of the dash very close to the windshield. You’ll need to look thru the windshield to read it.

 

I have look at the top of the dash board from any angle, from inside and outside, and there is no VIN number. Only that little BL96758 number. Bit odd really.

 

Well, you have the last 7 digits of your VIN (BL96758) posted on the first OBD screen shot above of the hidden menu tests. So that should suffice to get the list of the original configuration of the car.

As to the reset function of the OBD, it does NOT reset the error codes.

 

That’s the last 7 digits of your VIN.
It brings up the following info.
523i, 2.4 liter M52 engine, DM45
9/2001 build date for the THA market

 

Well that solves that, so the M52TUB2.3 engine did come in your car after all. Wonder where the 20 pin diagnostic port went that is supposed to be on the passenger side by the ABS unit. You would need the cable adapter to hook up your code reader to it (if it was there) which you do not have. Now I know why the throttle cable is routed where it is, it's a right hand drive vehicle.

But wait, here is an engine bay picture of a BMW 523i for sale just like yours in Thailand and it does not have the 20 pin diagnostic port by the ABS unit. Maybe it is located inside the car? Did they eliminate it for the Thailand market cars?
Below are the DME choices. I would see which one is in your car, MS42 or MS41, it says Taiwan market used the MS41.
Click on unit to see.
unit