[Sorensen]

That is the warning chime speaker.

It is possible that the CPK (Crankshaft Position Sensor) has failed on your car. You need a scan tool, if you cannot somehow get some codes and read them, you are just chasing your tail. If you get a code reader, you can set it to RPMs and crank the engine over, if you get no RPM reading while cranking, the CPK is dead. What happened with getting some starting fluid, again, that will tell you if you have spark/ignition or not.

A failed CPK will not allow the fuel pump to operate.

A failed CPS (or is it CPK?) is a good suggestion. I could order one online and give it a try. They are only about $20 and relative easy to swap out.
Is there actually more than one?

I am in a hot climate so starter fluid is not readily available. I will have to order it online, but we are being Covid isolated for now. Even the navy is keeping an eye on us so nobody gets in or out.
Shelves are starting to empty out at the local 7-11.

 

[bmw blue]

CPK is the correct acronym for a BMW "Crankshaft Position Sensor". Not to be confused with a camshaft position sensor of which there are 2 of those on your engine but only 1 CPK and its located by the starter motor.
Do not buy an aftermarket POS sensor, you will be sorry. They even talk about that in the video that I posted above, did you even watch it.
You need to read the codes, bottom line.

 

[Sorensen]

CPK is the correct acronym for a BMW "Crankshaft Position Sensor". Not to be confused with a camshaft position sensor of which there are 2 of those on your engine but only 1 CPK and its located by the starter motor.
Do not buy an aftermarket POS sensor, you will be sorry. They even talk about that in the video that I posted above, did you even watch it.
You need to read the codes, bottom line.

Thanks for the clarification. I did have the CRANKshaft and CAMshaft sensors mixed up.
The below part is what we are looking for, right?
The OBD scanner should arrive any day now, hopefully do some code reading.

 

[Chedley]

CPK is the correct acronym for a BMW "Crankshaft Position Sensor".
....
You need to read the codes, bottom line.

We can always speculate about the CPK, the EWS/DME, the key,...etc...but Bmw-Blue is exactly right: We need to read the error codes, to get to the root cause of the problem.
A BMW specific tool (I recommended INPA) would be preferred, so that it can access and read status and errors of any module in the car, EWS included. Which the OBD scanner cannot. But it is a start. We'll take it.

So let's wait for the list of error codes....
Meanwhile, keep that battery well charged.!!

 

[taz.]

I said to read the codes in post #2

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Sorensen]

We can always speculate about the CPK, the EWS/DME, the key,...etc...but Bmw-Blue is exactly right: We need to read the error codes, to get to the root cause of the problem.
A BMW specific tool (I recommended INPA) would be preferred, so that it can access and read status and errors of any module in the car, EWS included. Which the OBD scanner cannot. But it is a start. We'll take it.

So let's wait for the list of error codes....
Meanwhile, keep that battery well charged.!!

The OBD scanner is in transit, but it might still be a week until it arrives.
Will any of the below work to read the codes?
I have also ordered a charger, so I can always charge the battery over night. Meanwhile I keep it disconnected when I am not working on the car.

 

[Chedley]

Those are OBD or OBD2 scanners, and may not work to access all the BMW modules.
You want INPA or ISTA+ or PaSoft, or.....?
I recommend INPA : free software download, cable costs $30.

 

[taz.]

First one IS Pa Soft.


Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

 

[Sorensen]

Those are OBD or OBD2 scanners, and may not work to access all the BMW modules.
You want INPA or ISTA+ or PaSoft, or.....?
I recommend INPA : free software download, cable costs $30.

Just to be sure, is this the correct INPA cable?
It says INPA compatible, but also OBD, so a bit confusing.
E39 is not listed in the specifications, but I assume the cable will connect to all models with the 16 pin port and the model number is selected in the software, right?

 

[Chedley]

Yes, correct.

The INPA software can be downloaded from the link in the first posting in this thread: **Mike's Easy BMW Tools Package**

 

[dukedkt442]

While awaiting parts, a quick if not 100% absolute proof test: when cranking the engine, does the tachometer needle move, and if so, consistently? If not, that definitely points to faulty crankshaft position sensor.


Via the interwebs

 

[Sorensen]

While awaiting parts, a quick if not 100% absolute proof test: when cranking the engine, does the tachometer needle move, and if so, consistently? If not, that definitely points to faulty crankshaft position sensor.
Via the interwebs

Thanks for pointing this out. Good advise.
The tachometer needle is not moving at all when cranking. I just tested it now and made a movie of the crank-no-start party. I tried to attach it, but MP4 was rejected by this site. Which format is acceptable to upload?
This further points toward the crankshaft position sensor and I will go ahead and source one while we wait for the scanner(s) to arrive.
Part #12141709616, right?

 

[Chedley]

The scanner will find an error code to confirm -or not- a bad sensor.
Buy only BMW oem stamped sensors. Do not take a chance with cheaper after-market or used sensors.

 

[dukedkt442]

I don’t own a parts cannon but I wouldn’t hesitate to install a crank sensor. Agree with Cheddar, OE or OEM.*

That said I installed a Hella CKP sensor on mine as a guinea pig test and it’s been fine for 10k miles.

I replaced mine from underneath in about 15 minutes, but I don’t know about your engine. If you can avoid removing the intake, do so.


Via the interwebs

 

[taz.]

I agree with the boys up, sensors only bmw OE. not even OEM. I changed mine camshafts one as preventive maintenance and after 1000 km it started acting up and after 2000 km died. Went to the junkyard, pulled a BMW stamped one and after 3 years and 35000 km it is still going.

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[Sorensen]

While we are waiting for the scanner I have jumped the gun and ordered a crankshaft sensor (#8 + #9). The real deal made by VDO in Germany for $60, not a Chinese knockoff.
A 2 1/2 tons jack and 2 stand are also coming, as I guess the only way to find the home of this nemesis is from under the car.

 

[bmw blue]

Good choice, just make sure you get the old o'ring out and the new one in.
The old o'ring sometimes doe's not come out when you remove the sensor and you need to fish it out. A touch of lube on the new one will help to ease it in.

 

[u.nanimous]

While awaiting parts, a quick if not 100% absolute proof test: when cranking the engine, does the tachometer needle move, and if so, consistently? If not, that definitely points to faulty crankshaft position sensor.


Via the interwebs

Wait...what?!?
I thought this strange when I read it the other day and keep forgetting to check when starting the car but finally remembered when at the gas station with 1 of our daughters in her 2003 325xiT last night. The tach needle does NOT move while cranking.
When the key is turned to the start position everything shuts off to allow maximum power to the starter, surely everyone at least notices the radio goes silent.

Edit: Remembered again when leaving work and watched in the 2002 325xi (sedan), there were a couple lights on the instrument cluster but again the tach did not move until the engine started.
Edit2: Checked the 2008 335xi, tach does not move while cranking.

 

[dukedkt442]

Wait...what?!?
I thought this strange when I read it the other day and keep forgetting to check when starting the car but finally remembered when at the gas station with 1 of our daughters in her 2003 325xiT last night. The tach needle does NOT move while cranking.
When the key is turned to the start position everything shuts off to allow maximum power to the starter, surely everyone at least notices the radio goes silent.

Edit: Remembered again when leaving work and watched in the 2002 325xi (sedan), there were a couple lights on the instrument cluster but again the tach did not move until the engine started.

Well that sounds just plain odd. The tach gets its signal from the CKP, and lack of tach was my dead giveaway to my failed CKP (albeit N52). My Jetta, Silverado, Chrysler, and X3 all move the tack when starting, as did my Ram and F150 and F550. The M52/54 may be wired differently, which is why I mentioned it not being a 100% proof positive test. If no one else’s tach needles move when starting, the tach needle test is completely irrelevant to this model.

Edit: I searched for some E39 start videos showing the dash, and sure enough no tach movement until started. My apologies for that errant suggestion. As that is the case, I’d backprobe the CKP wires and look for an oscillating voltage, between 0 and 5V on the signal wire.

Via the interwebs

 

[Sorensen]

Shame about the tachometer test, but salvation is slowly arriving.
The OBD scanner has cleared customs and is on last mile delivery. Should arrive any day now.
The INPA and PA Soft cables are still a week or more away.