BMW Forum - BimmerFest BMW Forums banner

Tools for replacing disk rotors and pads

17K views 33 replies 13 participants last post by  bluebee  
#1 ·
Bluebee has browbeaten me into believing that this boy can butt his way through the fear and trepidation of replacing all four disk rotors and associated pads - as his first DIY major repair on a 2002 e39 540i. After searching this forum, is it really that only four tools are needed?

1. lift
2. stands
3. 7mm wrench
4. caliper spreader
 
#8 · (Edited)
Bluebee has browbeaten me into believing that this boy can butt his way through the fear and trepidation of replacing all four disk rotors and associated pads - as his first DIY major repair on a 2002 e39 540i.
Yup. If I can do it as 'my' first DIY, you certainly can!
- A user's very first complete 4-wheel brake DIY experience on the BMW E39 (1)

And, a word of advice: Always buy the tools you think you need for the job. The tools are free!
(Since the tools are free, I bought all I need, e.g., micrometer, calipers, dial gauge, torque wrench, etc.).

Just know that I had a bad experience with my harbor freight torque wrench, bought for the brake job but used on an oil change:
- Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil!

After searching this forum, is it really that only four tools are needed?
You forgot a few but I'll bet many people do without them (personally, I buy all the tools that are needed for the 'perfect' job).
I still always seem to manage to screw it up; but I can never blame the lack of tools!
Image


The fluids you'll need are listed in post #65 here:
- E39 4-wheel brake DIY fluids:

Image


On fluids, bear in mind that 'most people' (you know who you are) do this job all wrong (according to the Bentleys).
Image


As for that "7mm wrench", it is a "hex" wrench (I assume you knew that, but you didn't say it so I'm just being careful here to give you the right advice.

Image


And, you will probably already have these, but you'll need a prybar to get the anti-rattle spring off ... and probably an additional needlenose pliars to get it back on.
Image


You'll want a thin (maybe 1/8") flathead screwdriver to pry off the dust caps:
Image


And, a needle nose pliers to remove the brake wear sensor (but don't remove it too early like I did):
Image


The prybar comes in handy to leverage a stuck top half of the caliper:
Image


And, as you noted, the caliper spreaders come in handy when the pucks are out:
Image


A micrometer isn't required if you're replacing rotors; but it is required if you want to save the old ones:
Image


But, I don't know how other people can possibly check the disk shoes without a micrometer:
Image

And a dial gauge is required to check the rotor runout when you're all done:
Image


A large flathead screwdriver is needed if you wish to adjust the parking brake:
Image


The 1/8" flathead screwdriver comes in handy when opening up the brake wear sensor harness connector:
Image


It helps to have a coat hanger or similar "tool" to hang the caliper so that the line isn't stressed:
Image


And a torque wrench is required for most of the bolts:
Image


And, do us a favor to confirm that new BMW rotors starting thickness is always 1.6mm thicker than the wear limit.
Image
 
#12 ·
For the purposes f a brake job, you should only put anti seize on the sirfaces of the rotor that contact the hub and the wheel, allowing future easy removal of the wheel and rotor. I also paint a generous amount on the 7mm rotor retaining screw. If you live in a climate that doesn't involve rust, forget it altogether.

It's a job that I now have done too many times on my car...

Get some brake cleaner too. Keep grease that's not exactly the right stuff away from rubber.
Be careful not to puncture the rubber boot on the caliper. If it is punctured plan on rebuilding or replacing the caliper in <100 miles; it's dangerous to operate the car that way.
Caliper spreaders make the job easier but you can do it with a c clamp too. Definitely best to have a c clamp or spreaders. Prying is hard and you have an increased chance of breaking ****
 
#14 · (Edited)
only put anti seize on the sirfaces of the rotor that contact the hub and the wheel
I agree. The pins do not get anti-sieze. The hub and flange do. Here, I put way too much on, but, it's at least in the right spot (the next time the rotors came right off!).
Image


I also paint a generous amount on the 7mm rotor retaining screw.
Interesting idea. I used the WD40 trick on the retaining screw and it came right out.
Image


Get some brake cleaner too
I agree. If for nothing else, the brake cleane removes the oil on the new rotors.
Image


Don't know what brand of caliper grease you are using Bluebee, I got mine from BAV Auto, it's Sta-Lube synthetic grease
I had asked what kind of grease to use years ago:
7) What kind of grease do you use to lube this and WHAT do you lube anyway? Here is what the Kragan guys sold me for three dollars (pic).
Where do I put it? I supposed it goes on the back of the plate which I suppose comes with the pad. And maybe on the spring.
On the first job, I used this stuff from the auto parts store. Later on, I used ATE Superlube.

Note 2: The anti-squeal paste (aka "Never Squeal" & "high temperature lube" & "Brake Disc Quiet" & "Plastilube", etc.) is used on both pad backing plates (aka "caliper contact faces"), and on the caliper landing faces (i.e., places where the pad "wings" slide in the calipers called the "brake pad rests"). Some people use (orange) CRC or Permatex "Brake Disc Quiet" instead of the ATE "Plastilube". Some say this paste is nothing more than high-temperature lube, by the way.
Image


As you now know you have way too much grease on the caliper and carrier. You only need a dab on these points.
Yes. I was told that, in no uncertain terms, when I posted those pictures a few years ago (my how time flies). Luckily that was two sets of pads ago (I'm on the second set now) so I've done better (less) the second time.

Still, even with all that globbing of grease, nothing was left ... although ... as you noted, it was coated with dust so maybe it 'was' there under all that brake dust.

BTW, your annotated image is much better than mine was (this picture is from years ago):
Image


See also this BMW TIS on where to lube (and where not to lube):
BMW_TIS_34-11-00-brake_linings.pdf
 
#13 · (Edited)
Don't know what brand of caliper grease you are using Bluebee, I got mine from BAV Auto, it's Sta-Lube synthetic grease.
I don't think there is any that will not get partially washed off. You probably have noticed what grease is left is imbedded with brake pad dust and becomes hard.
It scrapes off pretty easy.
As you now know you have way too much grease on the caliper and carrier. You only need a dab on these points.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
i was referring to the people who use anti seize On there pins, I don't use High temp or anti sequel.. As a matter of fact my brakes are completely dry.

http://www.bavauto.com/lview.asp?imgfile=assets/imglib500/CBUK.jpg...

Do as i say not as i do :D

Im completely lubeless,

But ill agree.. anti seize on the backing of the rotor (not even close to that much)
permatex green bottle for the slide pins
wire brush the hardware
 
#17 ·
Hey Bluebee where can I get free tools? :) Great DIY btw.
 
#18 ·
Hey Bluebee where can I get free tools?
I know you realize what I meant, but, just to clarify for the others ...

The cost of a brake job at the indy or stealer is higher than it costs to buy all the tools you need (including the micrometer, dial gauge, torque wrench, etc.).

So, in effect, I consider the tools for a brake job free. Same with the cooling system counterhold tools and most other jobs (le.g., replacing an alternator, troubleshooting the ABS, etc.).

Only in special cases (such as a four-wheel alignment) are the professional tools not 'free' - but even then - the home-made tools may work well enough.

Sometimes it amazes me that folks don't buy the tools to do the job when the tools are the cheapest part (usually) of the job. The 'real' cost is labor and the doubling of parts prices that the stealer's charge ... not the tools.
 
#21 ·
OK, BlueBee, I've just come home with my first batch of tools:
Duralast 80-6253 (lift, stands, crawler, chocks, lug wrench)
7mm hex bit (for 3/8" ratchet)
brake cleaner (autozone)
C clamp

I'll start working on all those fluids in your list. Since the decision has been made to replace rotors, I'll not bother with the measuring devices. The AutoZone BMW Expert, i.e. the first fellow on the floor who said 'May I help you', said that I won't need caliper spreaders.

I have a terrible feeling about all this.
 
#22 ·
I have a terrible feeling about all this.
I understand that feeling as I have it about other things than a brake job, though any work on the car can bring up such feelings.

Have a friend that knows about cars help you. If alone, have a printed guide of some kind to help. And take your time and think your way thru it. Its all quite logical because its all mechanical.

Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. Use bailing wire to hang it to something above so the flexible brake line is not stressed, cut or damaged.

Wire clothes hangers, with the hook and twisted part cut off, give you strong wire to use if you don't have any bare bailing type wire. A strong pr of wire cutters and pliers, preferably needle nose, are needed to cut and shape the hanger wire.

I'm sure you will be able to do it and when done put a notch on something. :thumbup:
 
#25 ·
540 Indiana - That's been covered. The garage refrigerator is stocked and my wife has been told to stay clear of the proceedings.

BlueBee - Your research is invaluable.

FrankA - members of the Arkansas Bimmers are scheduled to attend. In fact, the replacement is serving as one of our regular gatherings. It was originally to be publicized as 'Beer, Brakes, and Bimmers' but, because we have a few young members, it is known now as 'Burgers, Brakes, and Bimmers'. (Beer is optional.)

On a side note, it is easy to see that the rear jack points can be used if the car is lifted by the differential. But where is a front lift point so as to keep the front jack point free for the jack stand?
 
#26 · (Edited)
But where is a front lift point so as to keep the front jack point free for the jack stand?
I found this by doing a quick /jack F3 in the VERY best of E39 Links.
- How and where to jack up the BMW E39 with pictures of jack pads & jacking points (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & jack stands (1)

There are lots of pictures ... here's just one:
Image
 
#29 ·
Just take your time.... all the help you see here will make the job very smooth. One thing I did was to just de-lete the brake wear sensors, so if you break them no biggy, just snip them close to the connection box and splice together....I real don't need a sensor to tell me how low my pads are.

also...as someone said, BFH for getting the disks off...just beat the h@ll out of them and they will free up.

Good luck!!!
 
#30 ·
As a warm up to the upcoming event to replace rotors and pads, I single-handedly and successfully replaced the mower's deck belt. Now I feel like taking on those stink'n rotors and pads!

Cowabunga!
 
#31 ·
The Eagle Has Landed.

Four rotors, complete with new pads, now adorn my car.

Additional tools were needed:
7mm hex
16mm socket
18mm socket

The new rotors were zinc coated and appeared not to be covered in oil. They were not cleaned prior to installation.

Bluebee's photos are great ... after the job is done. Frankly, I could not orient myself to fully understand the perspective in her photos. For example, I would never have found those rubber plugs covering the 7mm bolts on my own, even with the photos. The helper having done it before pointed it out.

Now that the job is done, Bluebee's photos are great. Now I totally see what she was talking about. My fear and trepidation was because I didn't fully understand her photos.

The hardest part was figuring out how to jack up the front of the car. Once that was solved, the front brakes were done in about an hour. Both sides. Oh - loosen the lug bolts prior to raising the car.

When burnishing the brakes, the right front smoked a bit after a hard stop from 50 mph. I attribute that to having smeared the anti-squeal grease on an area not covered, exposing it to the air. At least I hope that is why it smoked. I couldn't see if the back was smoking. But, WOW, were those rotors hot after doing the 'burnishing run'.

The first time or two the brake pedal felt mushy. After that I didn't notice it.

Oh, and after it was all over, that is when the guys told me that my old rotors and pads probably really didn't need replacing after all, at least not for a good long while.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Frankly, I could not orient myself to fully understand the perspective
The same thing happens to me all the time.

People post pictures and I don't 'see' what they see in the picture until 'after' I've actually done the job.

For example, I remember trying to understand how to release tension on the mechanical tensioner and everyone talked about a Torx bolt and a leverage point ... only afterward did I realize you do NOT touch the Torx bolt and that the leverage point doesn't actually 'twist' or 'move'. It's just one of those things that you have to just 'do' to get the real 'picture'.

- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)

When burnishing the brakes
And, forevermore, when you stop, roll the wheels forward a bit (if you have the room), so that you don't leave a pad imprint that can build up like it did on me when I was ignorant of pad-imprint chemistry.

The first time or two the brake pedal felt mushy. After that I didn't notice it.
Interestingly, when I replaced my Jurid's in the front with PBR Deluxe Advanced pads, they felt like they didn't grab as quickly as did the Jurids; but now, months later, I don't notice a thing detrimental.

the guys told me that my old rotors and pads probably really didn't need replacing after all, at least not for a good long while.
  • Tools ==> micrometer :)
Image