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E39 Leak Detection Pump DIY

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38K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  bluebee  
#1 · (Edited)
Code P0456. Evap small leak detected. Smoke test found no leaks so I replaced original leak detection pump at 170,000 miles on 2003 530i.

Tools needed:

Flat head screw driver
8mm bit
10 mm bit
15 torx bit
Evap Leak detection Pump Part # 16137193479

Step 1:

Raise Car and remove rear wheel liner on driver side. Remove two 10 mm bit on both sides of shock absorber. Remove three 8 mm bits that are under wheel liner where mud flaps are. Remove four plastic rivets where wheel liner attaches to the body of the car. There are three on the side and one on the bottom.

Step 2:

Press and slide off leak detection wiring. Pinch the hose that is on top of the leak detection pump and carefully work it upwards until it is disconnected.

Step 3:

Remove three 15 torx bit screws that are under the leak detection pump.

Step 4:

Slide the leak detection pump outwards. Once the leak detection pump is out remove the rubber boot and install it on the new LDP.

Step 5:

Installation is reverse order.
 

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#2 ·
What did the pump cost? I'm thinking that I may need to do the same thing on my car--I don't have a code showing on the dash--but do when using something like car soft--it shows up then. The ready monitor for this system has never shown ready since I bought the car new and now the car has 255k miles on her...Did this help in the feel of the cars performance in any way?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Yes you can still drive without noticing any changes in performance. The Leak detection pump builds pressure in the fuel containment system to test for vapor leaks to the atmosphere. Sometimes there is a leak but other times it is just a faulty LDP.

Here is some additional information:

Additional information:

LEAK DIAGNOSIS TEST PRECONDITIONS
The ECM only initiates a leak diagnosis test every second time the criteria are met. The criteria
is as follows:
• Engine OFF with ignition switched OFF.
• Engine Control Module still in active state or what is known as "follow up mode" (Main
Relay energized, control module and DME components online for extended period after
key off).
• Prior to Engine/Ignition switch OFF condition, vehicle must have been driven for a minimum
of 20 minutes.
• Prior to minimum 20 minute drive, the vehicle must have been OFF for a minimum of 5
hours.
• Fuel Tank Capacity must be between 15 and 85% (safe approximation between 1/4 -
3/4 of a tank).
• Ambient Air Temperature between -7OC & 35OC (20OF & 95OF )
• Altitude < 2500m (8,202 feet).
• Battery Voltage between 11.5 and 14.5 Volts
When these criteria are satisfied every second time, the ECM will start the Fuel System Leak
Diagnosis Test.
 

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#11 ·
I typed /ldp F3 in the best links and this is the only set of references that came up:
- How to replace the LDP leak detection pump charcoal canister (1) (2)

But, the first was for the E46, and the second was for an E39 fuel tank breather valve.

Since this is the first decent leak detection pump thread (that I know of), I'll unilaterally 'declare' this thread to be the 'canonical' thread for the BMW E39 leak detection pump.

This is the keyword-rich reference I just added to the bestlinks:
- Fuel injection LDP leak detection pump DIY (1) & a fuel system charcoal canister DIY (1) & where is the fuel tank breather valve (1)

Note: Canonical indicates nothing more than a decent thread that is 'declared' canonical (simply by being #1 in that list posted to the best links thread) and then we continually cross reference back to that thread so that it 'becomes' canonical, over time, via incessant incrementalism.
 
#12 ·
energizedmortal - I had a smoke test performed and they said smoke was coming out of the driver's side rear wheel well. How difficult was it to remove the fender liner? I want to take a look myself before paying them labor to get in there and investigate - hopefully there is an obvious crack in a line or loose connection I can fix myself.
 
#15 ·
This was posted today...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > P1475 - leak diagnosis pump
I got a P1475 code, which points to the leak diagnosis pump. I have not found too much in the way of DIY on this.

Looking at the RealOEM diagram, it looks like the Leak diagnosis pump (16131184968) is part of the Activated charcoal filter assembly (16131183573). I'm thinking to just get the latter and do the whole thing "while I'm in there".

Anyone else run into this problem? Thoughts about replacing the charcoal filter vs just doing the diagnostic pump?

TIA
See also
- Debugging the gasoline evap purge valve sensor and purge control valve evaporative emissions fuel system vapor recovery P0440 P0441 P0442 P0444 P0445 P0446 P0451 P1403 and other fuel tank breather valve and gas cap leak obd codes (1) & a fuel injection LDP leak detection pump DIY (1) & a fuel system charcoal canister R&R DIY (1) & where is the fuel tank breather valve located (1) & tricks for resolving the P0455 diagnostic trouble code when the missing gas cap is replaced (1) & does spilled gasoline really go into the charcoal canister via the two steel vent holes in the fuel filler canister at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and why is there a hole in the 6 o'clock position of my fuel filler hole rubber gasket (1)