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SW is not straight after alignment?

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18K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  jbrovage  
Z
#1 ·
Ok, so i have replaced some suspension parts on my E39 lately and it was time to do a wheel alignment.

I have done it FOUR times now without the shops being able to get the wheel perfectly straight. Should i just give in and accept that the wheel will never be perfectly straight again or should i go back and let them try again?

I did the alignment last three times at the same shop, the first time was in another shop but he couldn´t align the SW perfect either.
 
F
#2 ·
It should be straight, its adustable. Screw them. Alignment should always be done at the dealer. Never at a corner gas station or the like.

You are pinching pennies and loosing dollars.
 
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C
#3 ·
Go back to the shop, it is their job to do it right.

Or: if you know the alignment is correct, i.e., correct camber and toe-in, then you can always adjust the tierods with equal increments.

How far is it off (let's say pointing 12 o'clock is dead on, where is the SW pointing to when going straight?).
 
Z
#5 ·
I was back at the shop yesterday and he managed to adjust the tierods so the SW became almost straight. It´s now 99% ok, when i´m going straight the wheel is pointing a tiny bit to the left.

The weird thing is that the car became more stable on the road after that and he didn´t even use the computer.
 
C
#8 · (Edited)
Zed82,

In my Suspension Overhaul, I mentioned how to do the Alignment using Carpenter Square/Plumb Bob (Just scroll down to see it):
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399580

I just took a pic of my car so you can see:
- I place a dot of white paint on the tierod, next to the Adjusting Bolt. Actually I placed a single mark on one side and double mark on opposite side at 6 and 12 o'clock position.
- This way when the Adjustment is done, I know how much of the tierod has been turned (I use the conventional clock as my landmark, so basically 30, 45, 60, 90 degrees etc. from the reference point).
- As I mentioned above, if the car tracks straight and you know the alignment is good but the SW is not dead center, all you have to do is adjusting equal increments on both sides.

The person who did your alignment was a rookie.
The experienced people always make sure the SW is dead center when the job is done.
Nothing wrong with off-center SW (with otherwise perfect alignment) but it is ANNOYING like hell looking at it day in, day out.

Image


PS:
...It´s now 99% ok, when i´m going straight the wheel is pointing a tiny bit to the LEFT.
Click to expand...
- Now with the alignment perfect.
- If SW is moved from the imperfect (slightly LEFT of center) position ---> dead center, both Front wheels now point a tiny bit to the RIGHT.
- Since the tierods in the BMW E39 are in Front of the axle's axis of rotation (In my 1998 Volvo, it is behind the axle!), you can do tiny adjustment such as 1/12th of a turn (30 degrees turn):
a. Adjust Right tierod inward a tiny bit.
b. Adjust Left tierod outward a tiny bit.

This should do it.
 

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#24 · (Edited)
obscure thread revival alert!

cn90 said:
Zed82,

In my Suspension Overhaul, I mentioned how to do the Alignment using Carpenter Square/Plumb Bob (Just scroll down to see it):
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399580

I just took a pic of my car so you can see:
- I place a dot of white paint on the tierod, next to the Adjusting Bolt. Actually I placed a single mark on one side and double mark on opposite side at 6 and 12 o'clock position.
- This way when the Adjustment is done, I know how much of the tierod has been turned (I use the conventional clock as my landmark, so basically 30, 45, 60, 90 degrees etc. from the reference point).
- As I mentioned above, if the car tracks straight and you know the alignment is good but the SW is not dead center, all you have to do is adjusting equal increments on both sides.

The person who did your alignment was a rookie.
The experienced people always make sure the SW is dead center when the job is done.
Nothing wrong with off-center SW (with otherwise perfect alignment) but it is ANNOYING like hell looking at it day in, day out.

Image


PS:
- Now with the alignment perfect.
- If SW is moved from the imperfect (slightly LEFT of center) position ---> dead center, both Front wheels now point a tiny bit to the RIGHT.
- Since the tierods in the BMW E39 are in Front of the axle's axis of rotation (In my 1998 Volvo, it is behind the axle!), you can do tiny adjustment such as 1/12th of a turn (30 degrees turn):
a. Adjust Right tierod inward a tiny bit.
b. Adjust Left tierod outward a tiny bit.

This should do it.
Click to expand...
I'm doing some research online before I go in to correct a similar steering wheel alignment issue on my E39. Parallelism and equal increments suggestions aside, my issue in this picture above, I can't seem to get the rod loosened to do the adjustment. I know I have to loosen the adjusting bolt, but is there something I'm missing? Is the adjustment bolt really torqued down tight? Do I have to put a wrench on another part of the tierod to counterhold?
 
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C
#11 ·
Zed82 said:
Cn90: THANKS ALOT, people like you make this board fantastic!!

I´ll try this during the weekend!
Click to expand...
Whatever you do, mark the existing setup before disturbing it.
Once you disturb it, you cannot go back UNLESS you mark it beforehand.

As mentioned above:
- Mark with white out with the tie rod in NEUTRAL position (you can turn the tie rod along its axis because it rotates around the outer balljoint) so you can compared it to the same position when done.
- Then adjust only 1/12th of a full turn = 30 degrees.
- Keep notes of what you do, it is easy to forget it.

Post a follow-up.
 
S
#13 ·
Hi, just my 2cents here.. the opposite adjusting as seen above should work great, if you take good care doing it!

The comment i am posting is about the wheel aligning in the shop (with thw machine). When setting the SW straight, one should check that the free wandering of the SW is centered. Otherwise, if you just take it from a full side turn until it's straight, it will actually be tensioned to that side.when you align the wheels straight and take it on the road, you will get a slight turn.(ammount of this would depend on how much of free movement your SW has..) I have seen many make this mistake,and never get it right.. :)
Not sure if I managed to explain this the right way in english..Hope it helps..

Cheers
 
H
#20 ·
Hi, CN90.

The picture shows tie-rod with locking/adj nuts is fantastic, I wouldn't have any idea where to adjust otherwise.

My car has good alignment but SW is off by a tiny bit (to the right when going straight), it's been annoying as hell. So do I need to jack up both front wheels together to make the tie-rod adjustment? also since I don't see the thread on the tie-rod, which way should I turn the adj nut?

I assume the process is like: jack up one front wheel, mark tie-rod, loose locking nut, turn adj nut 30 degree, tighten locking nuts, move to the other side do the same. please let me know if I'm wrong.

Thanks very much!
 
C
#21 ·
hokiehigh said:
Hi, CN90.

The picture shows tie-rod with locking/adj nuts is fantastic, I wouldn't have any idea where to adjust otherwise.

My car has good alignment but SW is off by a tiny bit (to the right when going straight), it's been annoying as hell. So do I need to jack up both front wheels together to make the tie-rod adjustment? also since I don't see the thread on the tie-rod, which way should I turn the adj nut?

I assume the process is like: jack up one front wheel, mark tie-rod, loose locking nut, turn adj nut 30 degree, tighten locking nuts, move to the other side do the same. please let me know if I'm wrong.

Thanks very much!
Click to expand...
For minor EQUAL adjustments, this is what I do:

- Drive car up my wood ramps (I use 2x10 lumber, 3 layers, so it is 4.5" tall)

- Mark the tierod with liquid paper as a reference point. All you need is here:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399580

- Use the 16-mm wrench to adjust it.
Image


The KEY thing is "COMMON SENSE". Just read my post #8 above carefully.
Whatever it is:
- Find out your current problem: SW pointing a bit to the R when going straight.
- Now imagine the SW is straightened, both front wheels will now be pointing slight to the L.

- Now you need to bring the L wheel INWARD a tiny bit (16-mm wrench going CLOCKWISE a bit, viewed from center of car) and the R wheel OUTWARD a tiny bit (16-mm wrench going COUNTER-CLOCKWISE a bit, viewed from center of car), and that is all.
- Don't forget to lock the Lock NUT. Moderate torque is fine, no need to overkill the Lock NUT!
- Make sure you study the tierod to understand how it works. It is pure common sense, no rocket science here!
 
H
#23 · (Edited)
YES!!!

I made the tie rod adjustment and my SW is dead center now. It was pretty easy, I can't believe I had put up with it for so long while it can be easily corrected!!

the 540's tie rod is BEHIND the front axle, and instead of locking nuts, I have locking bolts! I adjusted each side quarter of a turn (90 degree). Didn't take any picture but the locking bolt is #12 in following diagram.

Image


CN90, thanks again for your help, I'm a happy camper now.
 
#27 ·
I hadn't known about this thread so I added it to the bestlinks as shown:

- The dozen BMW alignment specs (1) and which are adjustable on the E39 (1) & cn90's front (1) and rear (1) home-alignment DIYs & how to align the steering wheel (SW) straight (1) & how to DIY caster, camber & toe (1) (2) at home (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) and how to make your own alignment tools (1) & the theory of alignment with (1) or without adding weight (1) (2) (3)
 
F
#28 ·
Be careful, the slightest of rotational misalignment of the threads will cause a wheel misalignment. Just 10% of one rotation of the tie rod thread is enough to cause wheel misalignment.

You have to be very precise with your mark and how far you move from it and back to it. Be forewarned.
 
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#29 · (Edited)
Thanks - I am aware of the risks involved. But since I never did an alignment when I lowered the car here's what I'm currently dealing with

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1663871

By doing nothing and being lazy, I've clearly caused more wear than necessary. So, time to do something about it.

Granted this is after a year, but after having just flipped my tires I have a good chance at getting a little more life out of these tires if I do something about it now.

So, I am still trying to understand how to actually loosen the adjusting bolt. I can loosen the lock nut, but is it possible the adjusting bolt is rusted or something? Is there some special technique from those that have adjusted the tierod before?
 
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#30 ·
For the crosslinked record, yet another alignment came back with the steering wheel crooked today:
merlin310 said:
No question here to pose, just frustration. I got new tires Wednesday, and all was well, other than a slight drift to the right. I went to the dealership for an alignment, and now the steering wheel is off center to the left, and the car drifts worse to the right. The steering wheel now shakes between 50-65mph. Taking it back in Monday. I don't like going to the dealership for anything, but I figured they could at least get a simple alignment right.
Click to expand...
bluebee said:
Something is wrong because a key step in the professional alignment procedure is centering the steering wheel when adjusting front toe, which is adjusted last.

- Which of the dozen alignment specs are adjustable on the BMW E39 (1) (pdf) & how to keep the steering wheel (SW) straight during home alignment (1) (2) & what tools lock the steering wheel & brake pedal at home (1)
Image
Click to expand...
dvsgene said:
Take it back and have them do the alignment again.

Like BB said, the steering wheel should have been locked in place during the final stage of toe adjustment.

Unfortunately, we all assume that by taking it to the dealer we are getting top quality work. The reality is that the equipment is only as good as the operator and these days, "simple alignments" are left to the trainees.

There are just as many good and bad alignment shops whether dealer, indy or chain store. You just need to ask around before going to any one of them.
Click to expand...
 
#31 ·
dvsgene said:
There are just as many good and bad alignment shops whether dealer, indy or chain store.
Click to expand...
I agree.

I suggest you find a shop that knows how to weight the bimmer properly or, if they don't weight the vehicle, then at least a shop that allows YOU to weight it yourself.

Here, for example, is how I weighted mine.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > What can I have done at the alignment shop to reduce my drastic E39 inside tire wear?

Notice that, during the toe-in adjustment, we skipped clamping the steering wheel; but that was only because the clamp wouldn't fit with all the water jugs - so - we simply wedged the steering wheel against the jugs by moving the seat forward.
Image
 
J
#32 ·
This is a great thread. Thanks everyone for their pictures and detail. I'm searching for similar information on the E60 forums, but Google brought me here. While i'm sure it's not the same number, can someone answer this:

for a single full turn of the tie-rod adjustments (toe in on one side, and toe out on the other), how much steering rotation does that equate to? Does that equate to some calculation based on rack ratio?
 
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