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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:07 AM
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What is this engine part? (Getting to know my M54 engine bay)

Over time, I've come to know (by necessity) almost every large item in the M54 engine bay ... but some items still are unknown to me ...

What is this engine part?

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  #2  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:13 AM
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What is this engine part?

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  #3  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:20 AM
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What is this engine part?

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  #4  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:25 AM
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:27 AM
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:32 AM
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:50 AM
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2010, 01:54 AM
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2010, 08:29 AM
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Air pump valve cold start, disa, heater left right valve, vanos solenoid, cvv tube to cvv, dunno last
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  #10  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:11 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
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ooooh- a pop quiz!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Over time, I've come to know (by necessity) almost every large item in the M54 engine bay ... but some items still are unknown to me ...

What is this engine part?

emissions valve, opens at cold start to allow secondary air pump to pump air into the exhaust to light the cats.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
intake DISA valve

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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
heater valve for the dual HVAC system

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
VANOS solenoid/ VANOS adjustment unit

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
hose to CCV from valve cover

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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
that is simply an electrical connector you have circled, unless my eyes are missing something

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Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
The "box" with all the brown wires is a common chassis ground for several things.

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that would be the high side.
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  #11  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:15 AM
dcotti dcotti is offline
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I look at Real OEM and the like when I need to know what I'm looking at.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...3&mospid=47584

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...vember/browse/

http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=47584
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  #12  
Old 06-28-2010, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
ooooh- a pop quiz!
Thanks Mark,
I appreciate the help. What I'm doing is getting an annotated photo ready, for newbies and oldies alike, with all the visible parts labeled.

That way, anyone who opens their hood would know what everything is!

Thank you for taking the time and energy to help me in that endeavor!
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  #13  
Old 06-28-2010, 06:05 PM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
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glad to help!
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  #14  
Old 06-28-2010, 07:49 PM
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BigCo540i BigCo540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
That part is called dust.
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  #15  
Old 06-29-2010, 07:53 PM
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That part is called dust.
I wonder what the air filter looks like? Rather dusty where that vehicle is operated.
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  #16  
Old 06-29-2010, 08:32 PM
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I wonder what the air filter looks like?
Here is a picture of the old engine-air filter and the new filter side by side.

The old one looked OK but I replaced it anyway.

It won't rain here for the next 10 months and I take the bimmer for a drive over the mountains at least once a week, so, there is a lot of dust in the mountain roads.

Do you guys actually "wash" the engine? I've never done that as I'm too afraid I'll wash the oil out of things that need grease and electrical components that aren't supposed to get soaked.

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  #17  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:27 AM
Mark@EAC Mark@EAC is offline
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I wipe mine down with a damp cloth, that is about it. I don't do that often either. I've never been one to detail an engine, I just don't have the time or energy to devote to it.
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  #18  
Old 06-30-2010, 11:33 AM
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I clean mine two to three times a year, I've done it on all my cars and my wife's as well. I use a generous amount of Simple Green from a pump spray bottle, a soft paint brush for stubborn spots and a stiffer brush for really stubborn spots (like around the power steering cap and bracket) and a gentle spray from a hose to wash the grime/dirt/grease away, top and bottom. I will dry what I can with a towel or rag then drive the car until the engine bay warms up enough to dry the remaining water. Sometimes I will "condition" the plastic and rubbery parts with a protectant like Armorall. Be sure to cover your power steering reservoir cap with a plastic bag to prevent water from entering thru the small weep hole before spraying anything! You may need a few paper towels to soak up the water that will accumulate in the wells on top of the struts, too.
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menhir View Post
I clean mine two to three times a year, I've done it on all my cars and my wife's as well. I use a generous amount of Simple Green from a pump spray bottle, a soft paint brush for stubborn spots and a stiffer brush for really stubborn spots (like around the power steering cap and bracket) and a gentle spray from a hose to wash the grime/dirt/grease away, top and bottom. I will dry what I can with a towel or rag then drive the car until the engine bay warms up enough to dry the remaining water. Sometimes I will "condition" the plastic and rubbery parts with a protectant like Armorall. Be sure to cover your power steering reservoir cap with a plastic bag to prevent water from entering thru the small weep hole before spraying anything! You may need a few paper towels to soak up the water that will accumulate in the wells on top of the struts, too.
Armor All contains silicon. Silicon is deathly to the O2 sensors. Not worth using that stuff and having to worry about it being sucked in somewhere into the airstream going into the engine.
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  #20  
Old 06-30-2010, 11:12 PM
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Armor All contains silicon. Silicon is deathly to the O2 sensors. Not worth using that stuff and having to worry about it being sucked in somewhere into the airstream going into the engine.
Good advice, I'm sure. Silicone is a double edged sword and not appropriate in every situation. My mistake for generalizing.

Following your caution, it makes sense for me to recommend the use of Meguiar's Silcone Free dressing or a similar product. Works the same on rubber, plastic and vinyl without the danger (and it won't discolor tires, intake ducts, etc. if used often, as Armor All would).
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  #21  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:03 AM
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I mix up a bucket with very warm water and Dawn dish soap, Wet the engine bay down first with a light spray of water, then use a wash mitt and the Dawn mixture to suds up the engine bay, then rinse it off with a light spray, and blot it dry with a few old towels. The dawn cuts grease and oil quite well, but if you get it on the body of the car it will also remove every speck of wax. In fact, I use it for stripping wax when I'm doing a full detail on the paint. As far as water causing problems, a light spray isn't a problem, but NEVER use a pressure washer or coin-op high pressure on the engine.

And yes, you can go crazy and detail the entire engine compartment:
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  #22  
Old 07-01-2010, 05:52 AM
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Armor All contains silicon. Silicon is deathly to the O2 sensors. Not worth using that stuff and having to worry about it being sucked in somewhere into the airstream going into the engine.
Been using it for years, how much could really be sucked in and where could it be sucked in from.
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  #23  
Old 07-01-2010, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefwej View Post
I mix up a bucket with very warm water and Dawn dish soap, Wet the engine bay down first with a light spray of water, then use a wash mitt and the Dawn mixture to suds up the engine bay, then rinse it off with a light spray, and blot it dry with a few old towels. The dawn cuts grease and oil quite well, but if you get it on the body of the car it will also remove every speck of wax. In fact, I use it for stripping wax when I'm doing a full detail on the paint. As far as water causing problems, a light spray isn't a problem, but NEVER use a pressure washer or coin-op high pressure on the engine.

And yes, you can go crazy and detail the entire engine compartment:
Wonderful work. Exactly what I aspire to. The trying part is I have to overcome the PO's years of "neglect".
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  #24  
Old 07-01-2010, 09:11 AM
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Oh my! I'm never posting a picture of my (dusty) engine ever again!



PS: Is it silicone or silicon that you are worried about for the 02 sensors?
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  #25  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
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This picture seems showing the high pressure one. It is large and close to the tank and radiator. It is connected to a junction where other pipes are also connected.

The low-pressure one seems to be towards center and right side of the engine. It is connected to a pipe. Smaller cap on this port.

However, the valve came with the can does not fit well (popped the outer valve) and freons leak from the system when i tried connecting and the pressure shows high (60 psi) in the beginning of red zone.

Now I see the air that blows from both the vents inside the car are not cooling.
May be another problem that does not give cool air.
-Rabi
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