your going to need to drive it for anywhere from 40-100 miles. the car has to rerun all the 8 test it performs after clearing the ses light. normally it takes at least 40 miles, i did have to drive 100 the last time i needed to get mine inspected but i was trying something it'ed worked. also as for the speed sensor, that normally is the sensor gone bad, but i belive you may be able to clean it for a better contact. but you could just drive the thing and wait to see if the light comes on. after 40 take it back and have it retested, as long as the light stays out you should be good. and also check your local laws for inspections. like here, after clearing the check light, you can have 3 test not in the ready state,performed by the car ecu, and as long as the light stays out, your car passes.

 

the car has to rerun 8 tests it performs after clearing the ses light ... normally it takes at least 40 miles ... but you could just drive the thing and wait to see if the light comes on.

Hi Lild,
Thanks for taking the time to help me.

I'm pretty sure the light will never come on because the ABS is brand newly rebuilt and all four speed sensors tested good.

I'm trying to figure out what the BMW computer is "thinking" when it tells the garage that a sensor failed so it's good to know what those 8 tests are. What's the keyword I should search for to find what those 8 tests are so I can figure out what the computer is doing when the ABS module is rebuilt.

BTW, the garage thinks it's the transmission sensor (which also I don't yet know how to test) ... so I still have a long way to go even though I've gone a long way ...

Moving forward, I'm borrowing a friend's OBDII tester which should tell me if the last 50 miles or so have thrown that code that they cleared at the shop when they failed it for smog - but I'm pretty sure nothing will show up - so that's why it's important that I figure out the details of the 8 tests that the computer runs.

 

the test are the o2's, and heated 02's, smog, misfire, catylist, these are just 4 of the test, i can't remember what the others are. but when you use your buddies scanner, you hit the scan button and wati. the next thing you should see, is no codes, then no inc. (incomplete test) and then 8 ready, and then you'll see the 8 ready test listed one by one. and these test are just the emissions test. any other will show up as a code. but if all your lights are out and stay out and if the scanner show all the test ready, and no codes you should be good to go. remember you may be able to have 3 incomplete test and still pass. and a pd=pending code, they can't hold that against you and won't fail a car for inspection, it only means you may have or not have a problem.
please again check your local laws for inspections, i hate to say this but some shops won't pass a car over something that isn't really required, just to make an extra buck.
here's a trick a buddy of mine at a inspection station told me, "if you scan it, and the test show up ready, and the light stays off, come back, leave the car running and tell us that it's running, and not to cut if off, becuase you need to pass the inspection."

 

the test are the o2's, and heated 02's, smog, misfire, catylist, these are just 4 of the test, i can't remember what the others are.

Hmmm... well, it's not those. There must be a test for "speed sensor" somewhere ...

scanner show all the test ready, and no codes you should be good to go ... they can't hold that against you

I'm pretty sure the problem is just an "old" code was in there for the ABS being out ... and that clearing the code "solved" the problem .... but that by clearing the code, they can't pass me 'cuz now the codes are all zeroed out ... and that's a failure in and of itself. Sigh.

The problem is that I don't want to walz in 100 miles later if there really is something they'll fail me for (even though I'm pretty sure there is nothing) ... sigh.

That's why I need to figure out what the BMW system is telling the California computer.

 

this is what they are telling you.
check enging light comes wheater it's old or new. you fix problem, you erase the the code, turning off the light. but when you erase the one code, you erase the 8 test that the car does, basically, you restart the cars computer (emmission part) and it reboots, in the reboot process it reruns all the test too put it in the ready state for testing. like when it test the smog and o2's that is done when the car is strated up, then it runs test on the heated o2 part, and then the other test are performed. these test are done every 40 or so miles, or 3-4 start ups. the ecu does this to monitor and too make sure the emission parts are working.
so when they told you we erase the code but it won't pass, that just meant it won't pass today becasue the 8 ready emission test are incomplete and that is what the ecus is telling the cali. computer 8 inc., and you would have to drive 40 or so miles, and if the light stays off then it's good and will pass. the important thing is the light stays off. like you said it may have been an old code.
so plug your buddies scanner in, scan it, remember these words, no codes, 0 inc.,8 ready. and then all the 8 test will show up one by one as ready.

 

when you erase the one code, you erase the 8 test that the car does

I think we need to add these steps to the ABS DIY:

After you replace the ABS control module
0. Drive at least 50 miles (+ 3 starts) until the SES light turns off;
1. Drive at least 50 more miles (making sure of at least 3 more restarts);
2. Check the codes with an OBDII scanner (making sure all data is there).

My main question (since I haven't done it), is how do I know all the "data" is there?

 

when you plug in the scanner,
1--you turn the key to the number 2 pos. but you don't need to start the car.
2--mil indicator on (just means the check engine light works, and this is important, even though you may have no codes, if the light doesn't work this will fail the car.)
3--hit the scan button. wait a min or so while it runs the test. then you should see this if all is good.
4--first no codes. hit down button
* side note---if you have a pending code, you will see exmaple, 0 codes, p0500pd this means a pending code, and may be a bad part or may not, you'll need to drive and wait for a light to come on. but a pd code won't fail a car for inspection.
5--o incompletes (this is what you want), or x# of incompletes, of course if you have 3 inc. then it still may pass (check laws), 4 inc. will not pass. hit down button
***side note, if you have any number of inc. no matter if its 1 or 3 or so, hit the down button and the scanner will tell you which emission part is not ready, you will need to hit the down button to see each.
6--*8 ready (this is what you want), hit down button, then it will begin to list the 8 ready state codes, you'll have to hit the down button see each, but it's not necessary, if you see the 8 ready then all is good.
now if you have any other mech. sensor problems the check engine light will come on a give a code, when you fix the problem, there are 2 ways of clearing it, 1 with the obd scanner erase it (which will erase the emission ready codes), or 2 just drive it x amount miles and it should reset by it's self(turns the light off but leaves the emission test in the ready state). neither is a quick route. i would suggest you to buy a obd scanner, if your not into reading actual live data, and just want codes, then a basic scanner is what you need, i have just a basic.

 

It seems to me that the code is unrelated to emissions. While it may be relevant to a safety inspection, it isn't relevant to how much CO comes out the tailpipe. The shop may very well not understand that there's a difference between OB2 codes related to emissions control and OB2 codes that relate to other functions. Provided it's working within the parameters of the California legislation regarding emissions, it's not a problem. There's a *lot* of codes that can be thrown, that show up on the OBD2 port, that are not relevant to the car's running condition. It could be inconvenient, but not problematic.

You do need to drive a certain number of miles to clear the code. With the CEL off, I don't understand how they can fail the car. If my gas cap is off, a code is thrown. I tighten it, the test is performed again, the CEL is turned off, and the code is STORED AS PENDING so that way if you read the codes, you can confirm your diagnostic of a loose gas cap. Find a mail-order test centre

Without a BMW or BMW compatible code reader it's difficult to know for sure that it's the transmission, but there are several speed sensors, one of which is connected somewhere with the transmission.

 

It seems to me that the code is unrelated to emissions. While it may be relevant to a safety inspection, it isn't relevant to how much CO comes out the tailpipe. The shop may very well not understand that there's a difference between OB2 codes related to emissions control and OB2 codes that relate to other functions. Provided it's working within the parameters of the California legislation regarding emissions, it's not a problem. There's a *lot* of codes that can be thrown, that show up on the OBD2 port, that are not relevant to the car's running condition. It could be inconvenient, but not problematic.

You do need to drive a certain number of miles to clear the code. With the CEL off, I don't understand how they can fail the car. If my gas cap is off, a code is thrown. I tighten it, the test is performed again, the CEL is turned off, and the code is STORED AS PENDING so that way if you read the codes, you can confirm your diagnostic of a loose gas cap. Find a mail-order test centre

Without a BMW or BMW compatible code reader it's difficult to know for sure that it's the transmission, but there are several speed sensors, one of which is connected somewhere with the transmission.

does'nt matter if it's emissions related or not, if the check engine light is on it fails. you'll see where he circled in red the the mil light was on and that failed the car and that's all the cali. computer needs to see their computers for emission may give a code, but it's not going to dicern weather or not it's a safety problem. they don't care what's wrong with the car just that the emissions are working right and the light stays off. any scanner can tell what's wrong with your car, basic gets just codes, and from there the more exspensive one's can get more detail for you.

 

go get'er done.

 

It should be fine. Otherwise, find somewhere intelligent to live. That's just ridiculous. The best part is that if you come in driving on the rims they can't fail you for that (unless there's a safety component). In Ontario, people just get mail-order certificates if their car fails.

 

The best part is that if you come in driving on the rims they can't fail you for that (unless there's a safety component).

Yeah. Isn't it ridiculous that I'm failing for a bogus error (and then for having no data in my error codes after the bogus error was cleared) but if I had bald tires, I'd pass the bi-annual inspection with flying colors.

Anyway, researching further, it seems that Magnum on his 740iL also automatically triggered a bogus P05000 speed sensor SES malfunction code when he removed his ABS control module.

He observed the following triggered by removing the ABS control unit:

• No Speedometer
• SES with code P0500 <=== he got same bogus error that caused me to erroneously fail my California SMOG inspection!
• No ABS
• No DSC [Traction Control]
• No GPS for the Navi
• No Mileage was Calculated
• No Trip Mileage Meter
• No Fuel Consumption 1 or 2
• No Auto Lock
• No Speed Sensitive Radio
• No Cruise Control
• The Temp Gauge Read 31* - 33* [even though it was much warmer than that]
• The Brakes Were Extremely Mushy
• The Steering Was Really "Loose"

End result: In any DIY for rebuilding the ABS module, we should caution California users that they may need to clear the P0500 speed sensor malfunction SES code and even then, they must drive a few hundred miles or so before taking the BMW in for its bi-annual smog inspection.

I had my codes cleared ... Do we know if just driving alone would clear this P0500 speed sensor malfunction code?

 

This is interesting. It was always my understanding unless the check engine dash light is on, there is no code to be read.

 

Definitely in my situation the SES light was no longer lit yet the P0500 code remained until cleared with an OBD unit.

 

dissonecting the batt. can turn off a light, but if a code is set, it's there, and will adventually turn the light back on. it won't clear out codes. sorry, only either by driveing it or a code scanner can clear it.

 

They probably want you to go through a full range of driving (run all tests) before it'll pass. The requirements are somewhere but I'm not sure what to search for. QSilver7 posted them if I recall correctly.

I strongly recommend finding someone who will give you the cert.

 

They probably want you to go through a full range of driving (run all tests) before it'll pass. The requirements are somewhere but I'm not sure what to search for. QSilver7 posted them if I recall correctly. I strongly recommend finding someone who will give you the cert.

I'm pretty sure I'll have absolutely no problem passing the California emissions in my 2002 525i, even on 87 octane Costco fuel (which is what I used for the prior test results).

Looking back, what happened appears to be simply that:
- Removing the ABS module triggers a visible SES and an invisible P0500
- Reinstalling the rebuilt ABS did not immediately clear the SES or the P0500
- Driving for about 50 miles cleared the visible SES but not the P0500
- It was my mistake to have my car inspected at this point
- I failed merely because the bogus P0500 error wasn't cleared.

The real question is how to clear the bogus P0500 error.
a) Of course, one way is to manually clear it with an OBDII tester
b) But, the question is whether driving for a certain # of miles also clears the P0500

As for the failure when all the codes are cleared, apparently there are 8 items that are checked (I remember this from a thread, probably QSilvers as you noted, and from using a borrowed OBDII scanner, which went through the 8 items).

 

I meant the OBD tests, some are run at start, some at 80 mph, etc. Still can't find that freaking post.

 

This is the sequence the borrowed OBDII tester went through for me.

A. It started by reading "O Codes" (even though CA smog had read P0500)
B. Then it read "MIL OFF" (even though the CA smog inspection said MIL on)
C. Then MONITRS (I think that means it has 8 things to check)
D. Then 0-Inc (I'm not sure what this meant)
E. Then 8-Ready (I think that means the 8 data tests were coming next)
F1 Misfire
F2 Fuel
F3 Comp
F4 Catlyst
F5 Evap
F6 Sec Air
F7 02 Snsr
F8 02 Htr

I read no errors, so, it is time to go back to the California DMV even though I've done nothing since the original bogus failure other than reset the codes and drive the BMW for a tank of fuel.

 

The P0500 vehicle speed sensor failure was bogus!

Update: The P0500 vehicle speed sensor failure was bogus!
Here are the original and latest California smog test results.
Notice I did NOTHING except clear the codes and drive the E39.

Well, one other thing, I put in 91 AKI (instead of 87 AKI) but all that did was make the smog results slightly worse but probably not statistically so.

Here's what seems to have happened:
- I removed my ABS control unit from my E39 ...
This throws a visible SES and a P05000 vehicle sensor malfunction
- I put the rebuilt ABS control unit back on my E39 ...
This doesn't initially change the visible SES and the P05000 malfunction
- I drove for 3 or more starts (about 50 miles) ...
This erases the visible SES but not the P0500 (and an invisible MIL)
- Mechanic erased the codes (You can't pass Ca smog with any erased codes!)
This erases the P0500 but not the invisible MIL
- Drive for 1 or 2 tanks to replenish the data banks for smog to pass
Now you can pass the California smog inspection (even with the invisible MIL which the smog test showed but didn't flunk because there was no corresponding code associated with it, I guess)

 

In case anyone is interested, we're gonna collect ASM emissions test data (whatever ASM means) in this post over here ...

 

i'm surprised you had to pay for it twice. here once you pay, and it fails, you get to bring it back, once you get it fixed, and don't pay for a second time around.
and hey no one, after fixing you abs, and the goes out, any one would think all was ok.

 

i'm surprised you had to pay for it twice

In California, the whole smog thing isn't at all (IMHO) about the environment ... it's just a farce set up to create an entire industry and an additional tax.

It's all about money. So there is no free second test (at least not at the prices I paid for my smog inspection). I never expect to fail because the entire smog test experience is a waste of my time and money.

Here, in California, not only do you customarily pay for each inspection (and you can, as I did, fail with absolutely 0.0 ppm emissions!) - but every couple of years you have to PAY DOUBLE for a "special" inspection (smog-test only) where the guy who tests you can't fix it if it fails.

Why? Again, so California can create an entire industry around the smog test.

In fact, California even makes 10 dollars per car on a "certificate" (which you never get, mind you) ... it's just yet another California tax under the guise of something else.

It's sad, but, taxes are a killer out here. And, well, most native Californians don't seem to mind so that is why they will finally be strangled by their own taxes.

And, we're not even talking about the huge yearly property tax on cars (in addition to large registration fees).

Sigh.

 

I have a question. My DSC light has always shown (triangular light). Will this cause me to fail CA smog?

 

Will this cause me to fail CA smog?

I just happened across this thread while looking it up as a reference for another.

I do not know if the DSC light is a cause for failure (did you press the DSC button perchance?).

What you need to do is get a $29 code reader and see if there are any codes related to the DSC light being on. If there are ANY diagnostic trouble codes, yes, you will fail.

 

I didn't press it. Sometimes when I first start the car, all the lights will be off. I could turn on the DSC at command. But right when I start to drive it 5 feet all three lights come on. I had my module rebuilt. It could have been a shotty job. Who knows. I bought cables for PA soft. I just need to find an old laptop with serial ports. Then I will be finally be able to pin point the problem.

 

Then I will be finally be able to pin point the problem.

Probably not. See Bill's eloquent explanation on why the diagnostic testers almost always fail to pinpoint the problem when all three lights (BRAKE, DSC, & ABS) are lit.

The best test is explained here, which I'll summarize as:
a. Open the hood, disconnect the ABS control module harness & check the four wheel speed sensors with a DMM;
b. If any wheel speed sensor tests bad, doublecheck at the appropriate wheel; replace the bad one with an OE sensor (<$100, rarely more than one!);
c. If all four speed sensors are good, even though you had your ABS control module rebuilt, many others have reported they needed to get their money back and send the already-rebuilt-once ABS control module to another rebuilder. The most recommended rebuilder is clearly BBA, with MM in second place. ATE worked fine for me (although they botched the closing of the cover) but ATE has failed for some others. ATE is also the least expensive but in your case, you'll need to go to BBA instead.
d. If the rebuilder can't re-repair your module (takes about 5 days overall), buy a new module ($480 from Jared at EACTuning) & have the VIN recoded at the stealer (about $120).

 

I tried testing it with a DDM at the abs module harness. I can't get a good connection. It seems like the wires that I stick into the harness can't get a good mating point. I tried and tried. I gave up after hours of trying.

 

I can't get a good connection.

You need very small wires. I forget the AWG but it's in the thread. RadioShack would sell it but most of us have some wires lying around.

I'll bet the wires that go around bread wrappers would work; just strip off the paper.

 

I used the gauge recommended for the test. I forget what it was. It wasn't my DMM because I tested it against two piece of metal just to see if it would get a reading.

 

It wasn't my DMM because I tested it against two piece of metal just to see if it would get a reading.

Of all the people reporting back, two (including you) had this problem.

We don't recommend giving up on the DMM test at the harness connector; but for the other guy who did give up, we recommended he switch to plan B which is to test the sensors at the wheels where it's reputedly easier to get the test leads on the wires.

 

hey bluebee where did you get your ABS unit REBUILT? mine goes on and off and have no idea what to do, and i need to do the SMOG test SOON .

 

First off, if your ABS BRAKE & DSC lights are on, it could be one of the wheel speed sensors.

The way to tell is simply to take 10 minutes to test them.

Depending on the year of the E39, the pinout will be as shown below in the photographs from this thread:
- E39 ABS DIY

Otherwise, if it is not the sensors but it's the ABS control module, you can fix, for free, the one steel wire that comes off its bondpad based on the DIY in this thread:
- ABS control module autopsy (specific instructions necessary for a competent repair)

Otherwise, the three rebuilders we use are BBA/MM/ATE in that order.

Personally, I went with ATE (at a cost of $125 + $25 shipping). Most recommend BBA because they have the best customer service (but they also cost more).

Up to you. It's all in that ABS DIY thread so I'm really repeating what is already very well known.

 

I had a misfire code so I change the plugs, cleaned MAF, ICV, and reset the codes. Now have the P500 speed sensor code. Did I understand correctly that it will clear its self??

 

For the record, another P0500 code was posted today over here:

#My first question is can my check engine light and abs light both be on for the same reason such as p0500 "speed sensor"?

If I clean my speed sensors with some crc electric cleaner (removes dirt , greas, & quick dries) will this possiablly fix the light ? My e39 is running good on freeway and streets. How can I clean them with this if its ok to use this? I got it at auto zone. It's the spray can not the paste.

 

Good PDFs were posted in this thread if anyone wishes to access, remove, and test their transmission speed sensor (P0500 error):
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Tranny Speed Sensor Location

These two pdfs will help. One shows the general location. The other shows the wiring harness connectors so that you can follow the wires to the turbine speed sensor and the output speed sensor.

Regards
RDL

 

For the record, the P0500 showed up recently in this thread:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > P0500 code in EARLY 528i

EDIT:
See also the results of a quick E39-only forum search for P0500 in the title:

• P0500 code in EARLY 528i
• Failed smog due to P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction (this thread)
• P0500 ? DIY help ! First timer questions. Easy questions !
• p0500
• code p0715,p0720,p0500,p1745
• Code p0500 help!
• P0500 Vechicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
• P0500 code
• Can 2 dash lights (ABS & P0500 CEL) be on for the same thing ?
• Wheel Speed sensors / abs module questions (P0500 DTC)
  
• etc.

 

This thread today discusses the P0500 and the P0501:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Trifecta lights + no speedo, again

As I said "in most cases". Once an error has been flagged up sometimes it is transient and sometimes it becomes permanent and needs to be reset using diagnostic equipment. Even if the "trifecta" goes away there will still be error codes set which can be read by INPA. This shows whether the error is present or not, if it is transient/non permanent, and how many times it has occurred since the error was last cleared. The last thing you need is the error codes resetting every time you remove the key. If this happened there would be no history of the errors and how many times they occurred. The lights may go out if the problem is transient, ie when the ABS module cools down, but the error codes still remain stored and can be read by INPA.

INPA also has something called "Shadow Memory" which seems to be a permanent record of errors occurring. I'm still trying to understand what this does.

Regards
RonR

INPA can't tell if the module is bad or not, that is a fact. You can't tell by the error codes either. When the module starts to go bad you usually get the trifecta when it's hot. You can confirm the diagnosis by turning off the car and cooling the module and restarting. If cooling (cold spray etc.) clears the trifecta it's the module. INPA is a powerfull tool, but it can't do everything. The trifecta lights are reset when you turn off the ignition, but the fault codes are stored. To reset codes you need to use a scanner.

So I took a couple videos showing how the heat affects my car, although I have probably restated it half a dozen times now.

This is in midday, 85-90 degrees F.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/19g40eqs2tc6daj/2014-05-12 17.45.19.mov

This is at night around 65-70 degrees F.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/onzm78znu5m836a/2014-05-12 22.27.43.mov

This is why Im suspecting it is the heat causing the problems but I am not positive. If I were to restart my car in the heat, all the lights would come on.

Another set of videos showing what happens when the car warms up.

Before the lights come on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9rih5yb9ojjtpaj/2014-05-13 15.40.30.mov

After the lights come on:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oenrtyk4iohstsf/2014-05-13 15.48.01.mov

BBA told me I need to try and have the codes reset, as they may be stored still. Trying to do that in California is difficult. Autozone won't do it, Jiffylube won't do it, I am basically left with going to a mechanic and paying $100 to have the codes read and reset.

These are the codes that were popping up before I had the abs module replaced:

I replaced the rear left which is responsible for the speedometer not working.
I replaced the fuse which corresponds with code 14 (at least I think, from the research I have done)
I have replaced the front right with a cheap ebay one - I know, this is BAD, I plan on replacing it with a genuine one very soon. From my knowledge this doesn't affect the speedometer which is the main problem I want to fix.

BBA sent me this piece of paper, which is interesting to me:

This goes back to bluebee's suggestion: reading the abs harness. I do not have access to a multimeter nor do I know anyone who does. The $100 that I would have to pay my local mechanic includes reading the codes and finding what the problem is, meaning they would check the signals from all the abs sensors too.

 

For the record, there was another P0500 today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Module Masters ABS report

The DTC WAS
P0500. Indicating right rear sensor failure.
We replaced that, cleared the trifecta lights.
1/2 a block away the trifecta lights came back on.

I sent module in for repair. Status report is works perfect.
Module due back this week. Do I install it and see what happens?