hello everyone, I've done the tests and think I found something suitable. I came home from school today and turned the car off to get the computer. once I came back to the car I tried starting it and it wouldn't budge so I got to taking screenprints.to start off I have a lot of error codes from all modules (shown below). I also took screen-prints of the error codes of the CAS (also shown below). the dot for brakes comes on when I press it and the P/N dot stays on. after i went to the status of CAS activation and terminals I found that terminals kl15-1, 2, and 3 only get power when my radar (cigarette lighter) is on. I also saw that when the ignition is turned on (engine off) the voltage for halls 12 and 34 is very on and off. they range from 11.8 to zero super fast. KL30G and KLR maintain their voltage. but for KL50 it never went up in voltage or amps. I didn't even see a sliver of the black line. so I think KL15 And KL50 are giving me problems. what should I do next?
These are the errors of all modules:
CAS errors:
ignition on and not pressing the brake:
ill post the other two next it wont let me add more than 10
That is NOT how I interpret the "FTD START/STOP button & slot" document attached to Post #16 and previously quoted: "A 14-pin connector connects the slot to the CAS control unit.
A 10-pin ribbon cable connects the slot to the START/STOP button."
My interpretation of that:
A) There are TWO Ribbon Cables:
1) 14-pin / wire connector between 'slot' (Insert Compartment) & CAS; that ribbon cable and connector is shown in Attachment #4 to Post #16. That is NOT the cable shown in your photo that was attached to START button, at least it should NOT be. Fact that cable is 14-pin ribbon cable (cut-down to 10) is cause for concern though. Confused yet?
2) 10-pin ribbon cable between 'slot' (Insert Compartment) and START/STOP button. Hopefully THAT is what is shown in YOUR photo & someone cut-down the 14-wire ribbon cable to 10-wire. I can find NO ISTA wiring diagram for that
I would REMOVE the Insert Compartment/ Slot and examine it for TWO (2) Connectors, one 14-pin, and one 10-pin. I would then carefully examine any visible portions of the two Ribbon Cables for any sign of obvious damage to the small wires and insulation. If you find any procedure for 'slot' removal, or devise one of your own, please advise.
George
Can't find a definitive diagram or description of the 10-wire & 14-wire Ribbon Cables, but I would suggest checking out these two Links, RealOEM.com Parts catalog for part# 61126960259, and ECS part. It appears BOTH the 10- & 14-wire cables may be part of SAME unit. Perhaps that is what is shown in your previous ad photo, but it was NOT clear.
HOPEFULLY, if you are able to get Insert Compartment / 'slot' out without damage, ALL will become clear. I also attach screenprint of ECS listing.
George
I have both the ‘slot’ and Start button out right now. It appears that at the end of the ribbon it connects to the START button and about 4 inches down in the middle of the ribbon it connects to the ‘slot’. After the it connects to slot it goes behind the steering wheel I and can’t see the end. (CAS module). The ribbon itself has two indents cut from the ‘slot’ connector and the START button connector (shown in picture). Really don’t think it’s supposed to be like that but the ribbon looks OEM like the one you sent. Don’t know why the section that’s supposed to have 10 wires has 14.
What do you suggest to be my next step? New ribbon and both the START button and ‘slot’?
blue= where the ribbon is cut down from 14 to 10
Red= connectors
I have both the ‘slot’ and Start button out right now. [Photo] What do you suggest to be my next step? New ribbon and both the START button and ‘slot’?
View attachment 1079544
Your Car, Your Money. If you have another car to drive while awaiting parts/fix, I would begin with NEW Cable, if that didn't "Fix" it, try new START button, and then, if STILL not fixed, New Insert Compartment.
What I would Recommend BEFORE ordering anything:
1) Reattach connectors to Start Button & Insert Compartment, assuming BOTH of those components can be attached WITHOUT reinstallation to dash, so you have Ribbon Cable exposed, and components "Loose".
2) Connect INPA, open 'Discrete Hardware Input' screen; turn on "Ignition" with Remote Key inserted in slot.
3) Do "Jiggle" tests, this time also manipulating the Ribbon Cable.
4) Carefully examine the parts of the Ribbon Cable you can visualize, with MAGNIFICATION and bright light, looking for stray wires contacting each other, cracks/cuts in insulation, etc.
5) Look to see if the connector you are holding in your left hand in last photo (X14028) can be/ has been disassembled to add the "Cut" 14-pin cable (cut-down to 10-wire). That Cable, cut in TWO different places, CANNOT be original. Someone probably did NOT set the X14028 Connector "Needles" that go into ribbon cable wires inserted properly, causing "Short".
Seeing the Ribbon Cable cut in TWO places (TOTAL BODGE ;-) makes me believe even MORE STRONGLY that the CABLE is the issue. That is why I would Inspect/TEST that Cable, and START with its replacement. You might investigate HOW MANY things you have to take apart to extract that cable ALL the way from the CAS Module where the hidden end is now connected.
George
thanks for all the help. I connected the push button and 'slot' back on the ribbon. I didn't tuck the ribbon in and just left it how I had it in the picture. pulled up the Discrete HW input screen and lucky enough I had no more flashing ON/OFF status. the only time it would flash is when I would touch the wire and mess with it where it's cut open. my guess is that when it's smushed in the wire doesn't function properly because of its open connections. And my other guess is that when its hot outside the open wire collects heat or something and makes it unusable.
Anyways, the new cable is on its way. if there's anything on ISTA about removing the CAS or how to get to it please send it my way. meanwhile the ribbon ships I will be trying to research how to get this job done.
Thank you for all your help. will report back soon (hopefully with a functioning car)
... the only time it would flash is when I would touch the wire and mess with it where it's cut open... Anyways, the new cable is on its way. if there's anything on ISTA about removing the CAS or how to get to it please send it my way...
Great Job using INPA to identify the Cable as cause of intermittent signals from Hall Sensors! Also, thanks for showing us what the cable looks like. ISTA makes it sound like TWO cables, and it appears to be ONE, with 10 wires on START button side of X14028 Connector to 'slot', and 14 wires on CAS side (LONGER cable run).
Since Nobody has provided details on that Ribbon Cable before (that I have seen in nearly 6 years on forums), you would help ALL of us if you would take the time to do following:
1) Let us know if you got the E-bay cable or SOURCE/ Vendor from which purchased, and BMW Part# shown on part when arrives.
2) Whether it solves the issue or not.
3) HOW you accessed / routed the cable, both to remove the old, and install the replacement, including whether or not you had to disassemble the dash MORE than just the Pedal Panel per ISTA.
4) HOW you removed the 'slot' / Insert Compartment. Hopefully with plastic Upholtery Pry Tools, rather than with metal Screwdriver & Can Opener as in Video.
5) Photos would be quite helpful.
Attached are requested ISTA REP documents describing CAS Access from BENEATH by removal of Pedal Panel. The REP on CAS Module removal shows a "hole in left dash", apparently with Light Switch removed. Since procedure does NOT mention such a removal, I would assume you can access the Ribbon Connector on the lower side of CAS Module simply by removing Pedal Panel, and NOT removing CAS Unit.
Hope your problems are all in the 'Rear View Mirror'.
George
hey @gbalthrop, Finally back and with good and bad news. first off with bad news, my fuse box still makes a ratcheting sound. My radar, compass on the rearview mirror, and headlights stay on sometimes even after taking the key out. another bad thing is when trying to take my key out of the slot it hesitates a little, what I mean is I push it into release the key. It releases but engages right after and then releases again. (it only happened 1/3 time) On the brighter side, my hall sensors are fixed. they don't flash on and off anymore and they work how they are supposed to.
1) I got the Ebay ribbon cable that I sent in a recent post.
2) it did solve my hall sensor issues! it is cold outside right now (37F) so only time will tell if it fixes my no-start issue in the hot weather.
3) getting to the cable and replacing it was fairly easy. I took off the pedal panel and the trim surrounding the steering column. disconnected the three connectors and it was off (more descriptive removal below)
1) remove the pedal panel (3 t20 screws)
2) disconnect the 4 cables connected to the pedal panel.
3) above the brake pedal will be the CAS module. Disconnect the ribbon cable (left cable)
4) take off the key slot trim and remove it by taking out the two Phillips head screws on the left side, then disconnect the ribbon cable from the slot. remove the dash panel where the push button is located, and remove the connector from the push button. (top is the push button and the bottom is the key slot)
5) remove the bottom steering column panel. simply pry it open in half (only the bottom needs to be removed)
6) ribbon cable will be held on with three clips. remove the ribbon cable from each clip and slide it out of the tunnel it goes through to get to the push button and key slot. (clips will be on the right side and one right in the middle of the picture towards the back)
7) lastly do everything in reverse and if done correctly you are done.
these are the codes that remain
CAS:
A0BE— CAS: Terminal 15 output 1
A0BF— CAS: Terminal 15 output 2
A0C0— CAS: Terminal 15 output 3
A0A9— CAS: Control-module fault
FRM:
9CAB— FRM: One terminal 15 missing
so clearly something is up with terminal 15. any idea what it is?
we are so close to finishing this thank you for all the help again. glad I can help anyone with the same issue.
... these are the codes that remain CAS:
A0BE— CAS: Terminal 15 output 1
A0BF— CAS: Terminal 15 output 2
A0C0— CAS: Terminal 15 output 3
A0A9— CAS: Control-module fault FRM:
9CAB— FRM: One terminal 15 missing
so clearly something is up with terminal 15. any idea what it is?
we are so close to finishing this thank you for all the help again. glad I can help anyone with the same issue.
Thanks for taking the time to provide Detailed Steps & Photos of procedure for replacing CAS Ribbon Cable to START Button & Insert Compartment.
My understanding is that you have Cleared all CAS fault codes since replacing the Ribbon Cable, and NOW have the the 4 CAS Faults (3 related to KL15-1 thru KL15-3) and the FRM KL15 Fault. If that is the case, I would suggest viewing the following INPA Screens, Saving ScreenPrints of those screens, and posting them here. Since there MAY be some relationship between "Radar" plugged into Lighter Socket (or however wired), you might try disconnecting that in following tests:
1) INPA > CAS > F4 Error Memory > F1 Read Error Memory; That should provide some Fault Details that MAY be helpful in diagnosis; if MORE than one page/screen, please post ALL.
2) Live Data, CAS Module Terminals: INPA > CAS > F5 Status > F2 Analog > F1 CAS Terminal Status. I would save ScreenPrint of that Screen, BOTH: (a) Ignition ON but engine NOT running; & (b) Engine Running (voltages will be higher).
Note that there is a Bar Graph & Value for EACH: KL15-1, KL15-2 & KL15-3. ANYONE have knowledge of WHAT each of those (15-1, 15-2 & 15-3) is / does??
If you want to see how much ignorant speculation/ bloviation there is on the Web, do Google Search on Terminal 15-x and see what you find. If you know of proper search terms to get that info, BMW Training Manual, ISTA FUB, or any other resource/ reference, please enlighten.
One of those, perhaps KL15-3, goes to the FRM Module, and so there is ALSO an FRM code related to that Terminal. See the attached ISTA ScreenPrints of the CAS wiring and identification of each of the "Lines" related to terminal 15. The "Lines ID" identifies 5 separate CAS "KL15" Outputs to different components/ Modules (NOT counting the 15_KSH output to the Diesel Fuel Heating Unit). Those "Line ID's" do NOT identify as 15-1, 15-2 or 15-3. So if you can MATCH one or all three of those to a Line ID, we can perhaps do some serious diagnosis. Lines ID:
1) 15<JB: This is power supply to the Ignition Relay, KL15, IO1069. That relay is soldered to JB (Junction Box) PCB (Printed Circuit Board). If that Ignition Relay doesn't work: Crank, NO Start. Lines ID States: "Power Supply, Terminal 15".
2) 15_ZRS: (a) CAS SSP shows CAS X13376/7 is connected to X6011/8, which is an "Engine Connector" in the E-box. That SSP does NOT indicate WHAT that is connected to. (b) The "DME Supply" SSP wiring diagram shows that Line (Green/White wire) going to X60001/22 at the DME, and the Lines ID says 15_ZRS is "Supply Terminal 15, load-shedding relay ignition coil". Is that a supply to the BiStable Relay Electromagnet Coil? I have NO IDEA. BTW, the "Intermediate Connector" X6011 in the E-box is NOT shown in the latter SSP, as it is in the former. Confused yet? In my NON-Expert review of ISTA wiring diagrams, I have found a number of errors in the "Overview" explanations, but FEW errors in the wiring diagrams themselves. My guess is that BMW used the "Peter Principle" to push down to "support staff" the more menial tasks of writing the "Overview" notes, or perhaps translation from German to English is where the "wheels came off". In any event, my CONCEPTS do NOT accept that "IGNITION COIL" (any of the 6 ;-) should EVER be subject to "load shedding". SOMETHING got "Lost in the Translation".
3) 15_AHV: NOT functional unless you have a trailer, but perhaps still something to check. Lines ID states: "Supply Terminal 15, preparation for trailer"; Green/Black Line runs to Trailer Tow Hitch Unlocking Module, A195.
4) 15_OBD: Green/Brown wire runs to X19527/1, which is at the bottom of the Outboard column (Next to door) of the OBD II sockets. That socket should have voltage when Ignition ON. OBD II Socket #16 is Upper-Inboard socket which should be Battery Power (NOT switched). Lines ID: "Supply Terminal 15, diagnostic socket".
5) 15_LSZ: Green/Yellow wire runs to FRM. My understanding is that this powers Light Switch to turn headlights OFF when Ignition OFF. Lines ID states: "Supply Terminal 15, light switch cluster".
So hopefully SOMEBODY with "nothing better to do" will spend some time reviewing the above and your INPA ScreenPrints (you WILL provide those, Right? ;-), & will have an "Epiphany".
George
thanks for the info, I will send the INPA screenprints as soon as I get home.
I'm pretty sure the ratcheting noise is coming from the soldered relay in the JBE. (unless it's the FRM fuse). I say that because when I feel around the JBE trying to find where the ratcheting noise is coming from, the clicking and vibration comes from a spot with no extractable fuses. (fuse you can take out / no fuse slot)
when I first tried solving this problem I removed the 40 AMP fuse for the FRM, I clicked the start button and the chattering stopped. (don't know if that's much help but worth a shot).
I'll be sure to check line 5) 15_LSZ because when the ignition is off my headlights stay on sometimes.
thanks again for the help Ill make sure to post back soon.
(After seeing the 11.7 volts while the engine was off but ignition on i put it on the battery charger)
2) CAS error codes
3) FRM codes
4) programming state?
i was checking my modules and drifted to the programming state of them. i saw that my DME was different then the others and it says: error_ecu_conditions_not_correct_or_request_sequence_error_
Anyone know what this means or could mean?
how can i fix it?
Also my ZBE is in state 255 and says reserviert fuer zulieferer (reserved for suppliers)
Any clue what this means?
Terminal 15 really being a pain in the ***
I will keep researching for terminal 15 and no start no crank threads.
... 1) CAS diagnose ignition; ignition on, engine not running[ScreenPrint: You SURE ignition was on, and NOT JUST Remote Key in insert compartment? When I turn on ignition by pressing START Button (WITHOUT pressing Brake), my screen looks just like your 2nd screen except 12.x volts (alternator NOT charging). Please "Re-Run" that test: a) key in slot, b) press START Button without pressing Brake/Clutch. If KL15-1, -2 & -3 do NOT show voltage, we have an issue with CAS. However, I don't know HOW engine could fire when cranked if NO KL15-1,2,3 Voltage. 2) Ignition on, engine running[ScreenPrint: THAT is as it SHOULD be, and as mine also looks with ONLY Ignition ON.]
(After seeing the 11.7 volts while the engine was off but ignition on i put it on the battery charger). [That voltage value can be several tenths of a Volt LESS than actual. As long as Starter cranks & engine fires, that is NOT a factor for anything other than apparent use of Modules with Engine OFF, Ignition ON.]
2) CAS error codes
3) FRM codes [Please record your Odometer reading, Clear all CAS & FRM codes, Start & run engine for 5 minutes, and then Save/Post any CAS Fault Codes with details that now appear. I've reviewed your ScreenPrints showing 5 CAS fault codes saved at 250,304 km or 155 532 Miles (rounded to nearest 5 miles). ALL 5 of those faults are "currently present" (Fehler momentan vorhanden). NONE would cause a Warning Lamp to light (on Instrument Cluster). I have NO IDEA what "BSW Fault" refers to. The Signal or Value is Below Threshold (Signal oder wert unterhalb Schwelle). The similar description for the other 4 CAS faults says "Signal or value ABOVE threshold" (Signal oder wert oberhalb Schwelle). I do NOT understand WHAT signal or value is above WHAT threshold. Your Voltages with engine running are fine. 15.1V is NOT "Over-voltage".]
4) programming state?
i was checking my modules and drifted to the programming state of them. i saw that my DME was different then the others and it says: error_ecu_conditions_not_correct_or_request_sequence_error_
Anyone know what this means or could mean? how can i fix it? [Can you connect to the DME (Engine | MSD80) & read Live Data, and any fault codes in Fault Memory? I would NOT worry about that at the moment, UNLESS you have DME Fault Codes (if so, please report).]
Also my ZBE is in state 255 and says reserviert fuer zulieferer (reserved for suppliers)
Any clue what this means? [I have two of 19 modules that say same. I would NOT worry as long as you can connect with Module, and it appears in "INPA > Functional Jobs > F2 Identification" Module list. BTW, WHAT is the ZBE? ]...
Since there is NO Freeze Frame Data in any of the CAS Fault Details, we are left with Live Data using F5 > F2 > F1 Status of Terminals and the FRM voltage readings of 11.22 to 11.29V for Battery Voltage in the FRM Fault code Data, along with NO Sensor voltage (whatever that refers to ;-)
BTW, if you have a battery charger with either 6-Amp or 10-Amp charge rate, I would suggest having that connected to the Jumpstart Terminals (NOT the battery terminals) while you have Ignition ON and are using INPA. That will eliminate any issue with low voltage, and keep your battery from becoming run-down.
What if any symptoms or Performance Issues (things that do NOT work as intended) does the vehicle have at this time, after replacing Ribbon Cable? Given the obvious "Bodge" of the ribbon cable by PO or his MekNic, I would test for wiring or connector issues BEFORE condemning a Module, such as the CAS Module.
I have MORE questions than answers at this point. Please "Re-Run" Ignition On CAS Terminals screen as suggested in the insertions to the quote in RED above. If there is NO KL15-1, 15-2 Or 15-3 Voltage with Ignition ON (press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch, that would be "UNIQUE".
George
When the car doesn't start there are no volts for KL15-1, 15-2, 15-3. it's so intermittent that it gets voltage and when it does, the car starts up. today when I get home I will run the tests. the care doesn't have any other problems. only that the gas gauge on my cluster doesn't ever go over the halfway mark even when I leave the gas pump running until it auto stops. i don't think that has anything to do with no crank no start though.
When the car doesn't start there are no volts for KL15-1, 15-2, 15-3. it's so intermittent that it gets voltage and when it does, the car starts up. today when I get home I will run the tests.
The car doesn't have any other problems. only that the gas gauge on my cluster doesn't ever go over the halfway mark even when I leave the gas pump running until it auto stops. i don't think that has anything to do with no crank no start though. [Probably NOT, but there are TWO Fuel Level Senders, one for each tank "Half", and they both send their signals to the JBE Module. The JBE then sends a message to the KOMBI cluster Module with single, combined value for BOTH Halves of tank. I'll suggest tests using INPA in another post.
If you have an INTERMITTENT lack of KL15 Activation, but it ALWAYS cranks and you ALWAYS have such things as Radio (KLR), Climate Control Panel, Blower, etc. (KL30G) working when START button is pressed, then 1st Suspect is X11010/6 connection as described below.]
My undertanding NOW is that KL15 function is Intermittent, but Starter ALWAYS cranks (KL50), Radio always comes on (KLR) when Remote Key is inserted, and Climate Control Panel lights and Blower works (KL30G) when START is pressed (whether you pressed Brake/Clutch or NOT). That indicates the CAS Module is functioning as it should as far as those other Terminals, but there appears to be a loose or corroded connection in the KL15 Relay Activation line (Green Wire) at Pin #6 of Connector X11010. See attached ISTA ScreenPrints for circuit SSP, component Locations, and Connector View.
Once the engine STARTS, has it ever stalled or died, or does it ALWAYS run until STOP button pressed? If so, that is further evidence of a corroded connection, where slightly higher (by ~ 2 Volts) system voltage when alternator is charging maintains current flow in Activation wire circuit. You might try attaching battery charger to Jumpstart Terminals (that increases system voltage nearly as much), and see if that causes KL15 to activate. You can simply observe the CAS Terminal Status screen in INPA, with START button pressed WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch.
I would FIRST remove connector X11010 at upper-left of JB Fuse Panel, and carefully inspect the pins & sockets of that connector, particularly #6 Pin/Socket, where Green Wire from CAS connects. Measure Voltage (in reference to Chassis Ground: Black meter probe on good chassis Ground) at X11010/6 (Socket #6) with Ignition ON, and again with Ignition OFF.
We need to determine if the CAS Module is sending Activation Voltage to that socket when START button has been pressed. Test Socket #2 (KL30G) for comparison purposes (Sanity check ;-). That socket (X11010/2, KL30G activation) should continue to have voltage for several minutes AFTER STOP button is pressed. X11010/6, KL15 should NOT have voltage after STOP button is pressed (that's how engine turned off ;-).
Also attached is a screenprint from Bentley Manual, page 600-5, which identifies the wires at connector X11010, and their function. NOTE that the socket numbers for KL15 & KL30G relay activation DIFFER from those in ISTA. I would assume that the Socket Numbers in ISTA are correct for your 2008 335i. Wiring changes DID occur during the E9x production, AND folks make mistakes, but higher likelihood that ISTA is correct. I attach Bentley screenprint for two uses:
1) to Identify FUNCTION of the 8 to 10 wires at that connector, WITHOUT regard to correct pin# ID;
2) NOTE first text that states KL15 & KL30G relays are SOLDERED to JB Circuit Board (NOT removable)
Obviously, there ARE other possible faults, such as CAS Fault, KL15 soldered relay fault, fault in wiring circuit elsewhere, etc. So the tests suggested above are simply to determine if Activation Voltage for relays KL15 (IO1069 on SSP), and KL30G (IO1068) is present at the sockets for Green & Red wires from CAS. If so, CAS is OK and there is an issue "Downstream" of X11010. If you understand the wiring diagram, you can devise your OWN TESTS, such as sticking a pin in the Green Wire and applying Voltage to that pin (with X11010 connected to JB) to see if you can hear/feel the KL15 Relay "CLICK" as it activates.
NOT the easiest place to work. The Recall for Blower Motor Harness replacement requires removal of the JB, and the procedure begins with Glovebox removal. Please let us know if you need that procedure.
I'm sure you will have questions and further "Developments", so please let us know how it goes.
George
Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints for Glovebox removal, beginning with Trim & Cupholder removal, and then Glovebox itself. I don't see anything about disarming the Passenger Airbag. Please let us know if you encounter any issues related to this procedure.
I have NOT done the procedure myself, but I WILL probably do it BEFORE taking car in for Blower Harness Recall (delayed doing that ;-). AFAIK, the "BMW Special Tool 9321" is basically a plastic upholstery pry tool.
George
hey George, I'm in the car right now, and visually the wires are good. the vehicle isn't starting right now so I checked the #6 wire and it doesn't get any volts once I press the start button with the key in. Pins #1 and #2 get voltage fine.
update on issues: still No crank or start when it's hot outside. ignition malfunction will show up randomly while driving. doors will lock and unlock randomly while driving. the trunk opens randomly or it says it's open but in reality, it's not.
also, the other night I dropped my key fob and since then I haven't been able to open the doors remotely I've had to use the physical key. I can still turn on the car though. I thought it was the battery so I replaced it but still nothing, I bought a virgin key off eBay but don't know how to code it to my car. I tried holding down unlock while pressing the lock three times, but it didn't work. don't know if the antenna went bad or something.
the temp reached around 61 degrees today after school. I got in the car and the dome light turned on but that was it.
it wouldn't even take in my key or anything.
so if it's not a corroded wire is it the CAS overheating and not sending the signal to terminal 15??
really confused now :/
... I checked the #6 wire [X11010/6, Green Wire from CAS that Activates KL15 Ignition Relay] and it doesn't get any volts once I press the start button with the key in. Pins #1 and #2 get voltage fine.[Pin #2 should be Red wire from CAS that activated KL30G, the large, black "Accessory Relay" on right of JB fuse panel] update on issues: still No crank or start when it's hot outside. ignition malfunction will show up randomly while driving. doors will lock and unlock randomly while driving. the trunk opens randomly or it says it's open but in reality, it's not. [apparent "Issues" with CAS Module, its wiring, or power supply (F36 & F55)]
also, the other night I dropped my key fob and since then I haven't been able to open the doors remotely I've had to use the physical key. I can still turn on the car though. [Can you LOCK the doors with Remote Key? Do ANY of the 3 buttons work? There are basically THREE different systems in the Remote Key: (Battery; Printed Circuit board that produces/sends radio signal to lock/unlock; Chip that is recognized by Insert Compartment when key is inserted. Sounds like the circuit board was damaged by impact with floor, and is NO LONGER sending radio signal. That has NOTHING to do with CAS function if Chip is still read by Insert compartment, Radio comes on when Key Inserted & Starter Cranks] ...
Please describe EVERYTHING that happens when you unlock the door and get in the car:
0) Are you using original key, or replacement?
1) Do door "Puddle Lamps" light?
2) Does Radio come on when you place Remote Key in Insert Compartment?
2a) Does Remote Key "CLICK" into place when pushed forward gently & slowly? Should be "CLICK" you can hear & FEEL as it locks into place.
3) What lights up or functions when you press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch?
4) What is voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals under Hood?
5) Can you open the trunk? If so, what is voltage at Battery Posts?
6) Flip open the cover on the 13mm Nut on RPDP (Rear Power Distribution Panel) on top of battery for Medium-sized Red Cable that runs OVER the battery and inside the vehicle. Make sure that nut is Snug and there is 12V+ measured there.
7) Check the OTHER 13mm Nut forward of that, also under "Flip-up" plastic cover. See Attached Photo that identifies wires and location of covers & 13mm nuts.
We need clear indication of what is powered and what is NOT, along with accurate DMM Voltage Readings. George
0) I use my original key fob to turn on the car but I have to lock and unlock the door with the physical key that slides into the door handle. I couldn't get the replacement key coded to my car. ( I checked the battery in my original key fob and its good, right at 3 volts. I don't know why it's not sending the signal to lock and unlock doors remotely.)
1) yes puddle lamps work fine
2) yes my navigation system and the screen turn on when the key is inserted
2a) sometimes I slide it in and it clicks into place fine. other times when it's warmer outside it doesn't click in or lock into place.
when it's hot outside only the dome light comes on and that's all. it doesn't take in the key and nothing else works or turns on.
3) once clicked all my dash lights came on. the A/C turned on, the headlights turned on and an ignition malfunction warning popped up.
4) at jumpstart terminals I get 12.08
5) at battery post I'm getting 12.07
6) cable that goes over the battery labeled B+ to x13020 has 12.12 volts
7) the one upper left from b+ that's also a 13mm nut has 12.17
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