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Don't stick the 2nd key into the ignition...start programming it on STEP 3 where you PRESS the buttons...which is mentioned in STEP 6 . If you are inserting the 2nd key into the ignition, then you are going back to STEP 2 (not step 3). :) When you insert any remote key into the ignition and turn it to position 1 (KL R) then off...you start a NEW initialization process...so any key that was previously programmed will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car.

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People often tell me: Reading is fundamental!! LOL!

Okay, cool...that did the trick. Thanks!! :)
 
Great...success is a nice thing to hear. Thanks for posting back your results. :)
 
For the record, this site seems to be repairing keys, and sourcing and replacing the diamond key battery as posted in this thread today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Has anyone sent their key in for repair?

So my keyless entry isnt working.

Ordered a new battery from http://www.bmwgm5.com/kf_repair.htm

Soldered it back on and it didnt work. So i figured my solder points were off. So i kept doing and undoing it.

Went back onto his website and looked at his wall of shame and he points out capacitors missing.

Looks like I have one missing.

This is my only key. A new key is 180 at the dealer. I can borrow a car while he works on the key.

Has anyone used his services before? Should I just buy a new key and not have to deal with borrowing a friends car?

He seems to know what he is doing and talking about just wondering if anyone one here has given him a go.
See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
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EDIT: Removed specific key repair information as per PM from scottjoh (aka bmwgm5.com).
 
For the record, I just made a composite photo of the stock battery (90° offset) and the typical replacement (180° offset).
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EDIT: Removed specific key repair information as per request from scottjoh (aka bmwgm5.com).
 
Here is a composite:
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See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
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For the record, this was posted today ...

> E39 (1997 - 2003) > key fob
My key fob stopped working. I open the fob and found that the battery contacts broke off. I can still start the car but can not open or lock the doors with the remote. Is there any way to replace this part or will i need to purchase new keys from BMW. Would like the least expensive way to handle this as possible.
 
FYI, this was posted today ...
Hi. My key slowly started to fail and ofc i thought it was the battery so i changed it, but it still doesnt work.

I think i may have broken the circuit board when i opened the key. I found 2 spots that seems suspicious.

What do you guys think?

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Attachments

A confusing thread, to me, was opened today, that I quote here, for reference:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Key FOB question

Hey guys,
I know this question has been addressed many many MANY times but I cannot seem to find an answer. My key battery is shot. I have to constantly hit the remote for the battery to engage and I need to replace the battery. I understand how to open the key up but I don't want to get a rechargable battery because there seems to be some modification regardless of if I get the Vl-202 or not.

So to the question:

I've seen on Youtube that people replace it with a CR2016 and a CR2025. Which battery should I use? And will everything be okay as far as functions in the remote (unlocking/locking/trunk)?

Thanks so much!

BTW, I've used this thread as a reference.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768193&highlight=key
I ended up using the CR2016 energizer battery. Works perfect!!! I went and bought the 2025 but as the previous post mentioned, it was too big. So I returned it for the 2016. I ended up having to solder the pin back into the chip because it kept falling out and not making a connection when I would put the unit back together but overall, I am happy. I used just normal superglue and put it on the front/back and the sides.
Wow...wish you guys would have taken some pics of this DIY so that others could gain from your experience. This is the first time I've read of owners substituting a CR2016 in place of the rechargeable battery in the new style (diamond) key. Who knew? Obviously not me.
What does CR2016 mean:
C - Lithium battery
R - shape
20 - diameter in millimeters
16 - thickness in millimeters/10

Any power supply that has 3 Volts nominal will be fine for the key. However, in the three cases of key repair I have done, the problem was always the battery prongs losing contact with the board. The battery is heavy and eventually breaks free. I resoldered them and put a bit of padding on top. If you need to change the battery, reuse the prongs. Ask the battery shop to point solder them on the new battery for you.
 
Here is a composite:
Image


See also:
- How to replace the old-style BMW square key battery (1) (2) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the square keys (1) (2) & what the red LED indicates on the old square key (1) & what can go wrong with a key and where to send it for repair (1) (2) (3) (4) & what battery to use in the new style 2000+ BMW E39, E46, E53, E85, etc. diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & youtube videos of diamond key repairs (1) (2) (3) & a square key to diamond key retrofit and transponder swap (1) (2) (3) (4) & diamond key to square key retrofit questions (1) & how to recharge your key out of your BMW and how long that key will last in the drawer before it needs that off-the-car recharging (1) & the details on swapping the BMW diamond key transponder (1) & the proper diamond key initializing or programming sequence (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & what to do if your only key is locked inside your bimmer (1) & a description of the various types of BMW Remote, Illuminated, Spare/Wallet, & Valet/Service keys (1) (2) & a list of diamond key EWS, FZV, & DWA functions (1) (2) & all about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & a description of the ignition key ISN (individual serial number) ten-second rule (1) & what to do if you lost your only diamond key (1) or what to do if your BMW key was stolen (1)
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Video says the antenna is in the rear window. Is this true? I thought is was in the C-pillar? If rear window, I wonder if my tint is causing reception issues--just a reach. I've had issues before but since adding another layer of tint to go darker, my key seems to work even less. Might be totally unrelated.
 
Yes, the antenna is incorporated in the rear windshield on sedans & in the left rear cargo glass on the Tourings. The amp is in the C pillar...which then sends the data onto the GM where the FZV data gets sent to the central locking system & the DWA data gets sent to the alarm siren system.

The EWS (immobilizer ) data is sent to totally DIFFERENT components & even over a different radio frequency.
 
I am late to the party, the key fob battery in the 2004 X3 is dead.
I just lock the car mechanically now.

I have the soldering iron etc and all the tools but my main concern is re-assembly:

1. What type of glue? According to the video below, he used "Crazy Glue" (what brand?).
I have "Shoe-Goo" at home, this stuff is very good with shoe sole and a bit flexible.

2. Longevity: for those who did this years ago...how long do the 2 halves hold together with the glue? I hate to see these 2 halves falling apart later.

3. Some posts above suggest "re-initialize the key" and you may "void" the second spare key?
I thought replacing the battery is "plug and play"?


 
Also,

Does anyone know the PN for the whole diamond key fob?

Is this the correct PN for E39, E46, E53, E83 etc: 66-12-8-377-809 ?

I just want to shop around, just curious what the cost is these days (from dealer).

Some BMW websites say it is NLA (no longer available)...is this true?
 
i believe that roskinc.com does them as well, and has a good rep.
battery replacement should be plug and play. i think that what you were told about reinitialising means that if it needs reinitialising for remote functions, both keys (or however many you have) require that theyre done in sequence in the same initialisation procedure, if you do just 1 the 2nd will not work, but i believe you know this already. ive never heard anything about the 2nd key being "voided".
 
Doesn't answer your specific question, but I sent both of my keys to Scott at BMW General Module 5. I didn't want to bugger up my keys.
Me too. And he takes care of all issues with the key for a single $60 fee that includes return shipping. So buttons, or anything else bad, he will fix.
 
owns 2001 BMW 540 M-Sport
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