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Help me program my keyless entry.

48K views 34 replies 21 participants last post by  Duje39  
#1 ·
I do the instructions in the manual. Close drivers door. Turn to key postion 1 and then back to 0 and hold button 2 while pressing button 1 three times twice and release button 2. It stil doesn't work and i just replaced the batteries on the remote. I heard that you have to reprogram all the keys when you do this.
 
#2 ·
I think this is right:

Get in and close all doors.

Turn ignition on (position 2) & off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process.

Next action must take place within 30 seconds.

First key, hold down unlock button.
Press lock button three times.
Release unlock button.
Confirmed by door lock operation.

Repeat for second key within 30 seconds of first.
Confirmed by door lock operation.

Put second key in ignition and turn to position 2 (on) then position 1 (off) to finalize the process. It is not necessary to start the engine.

Both keys should now have new "randomly selected" security "code words" - assigned by the car's system. Those codes will be continuously incremented within the new sequence each time you hit a button. It is when they get out of sequence with the car that they loose the capability to be recognized and you then have to do this again.
 
#5 ·
hi there

hi there
i had a key that's keyless entry part first stopped working intermattantly then stopped working completely,
went thru checking all the buttons and battery etc..

i eventually followed the re-programming steps, this didnt work for me, till i tried it differently...

step 1) where you turn the key to position 2 and quickly off, before holding the buttons etc..
do this 5 times...

i.e on and off x 5
then hold the centre button in and press the unlock button 3 times (while holding centre button in).

then let go of the buttons, the car should lock then unlock all the doors to confirm its re-synced.

good luck :)

Anton
 
#6 ·
I have the same problem, lock button does not work (unlock and trunk buttons work fine)

I tried reinitializing, but in this thread seems that the key is to be turned to position 1 or 2; I have read a lot ot posts indicating (hard copies of instructions) turn to position 1.

Alex 540, have you changed fuse 53 in the trunk?,
there is another post i read that suggested to unplug the gas door and see if the control work

there are various combinations to try,

1)switch to position 1 or position 2, (1 or five times as suggested by anton-sa)
2)unplug gas door actuator and back to 1)
3) replace fuse 53 if blown and back to 1) or 2)

let us know if you solved the problem Alex540
 
#7 · (Edited)
Also have to remember that the instructions for the old style key (rubber head) is slightly different than the new style key.

The new style key requires that you ACTIVATE the central locking system FIRST (lock/unlock the doors)...then get in and SHUT the door (which is the first step for the old style keys). You also need to program any other remote keys that you have during the same session...but again...FOLLOW the instructions for programming the 2nd key... old style key starts on step #3... new style key starts on step #4 for the 2nd key:

Old style key Instructions: instructions from owners manual
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New style key Instructions:
instructions from BMW TIS
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Alternate Programming Instructions:
(for those still having issues)
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#11 · (Edited)
QSilver7 is awesome for posting these instructions!! My dealer told me it would be approx. $180 to fix and I reprogrammed using the above steps ! AMAZING!!
THANKS QSilver7!!!!
Just in case this helps: after step three you must take the key out of the ignition and proceed with next steps (I thought that you had to do step #4-6 with the key in the ignition :))
 
#13 ·
What type of key do you have? Does it look like any of the keys in the instructions above? If it does...which one?

In the USA, all e39s came with keyless entry system. I have no clue how things go with cars imported to Iceland. Do you have any friends that have BMWs that have keys that look like the ones in the illutstrations above and where built duing the same time period of the e39/e38/e46/e53?
 
#17 ·
Today, someone asked in an old (but good) thread about initializing the key:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > key programming... formated ;-(

So that these related threads can more easily be found in the future, instead of adding that thread to the bestlinks, I'll simply refer to it over here.

Did you do the entire procedure?

Link to another post with instructions: http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8043
1) Get in and close all doors.
2) Turn on the ingition and turn off quickly. (No more than 5 seconds) to start the process. Next action must take place within 30 seconds.
3) Remove the 1st key.
4) Hold the key up near your left shoulder (this is so it is closer to the remote reciever antenna - someone else suggested this).
5) Hold down the unlock button (which is button 1 on my key) and press the lock button 3 times (center button on my key). Release the unlock button and the doors lock which confirms the operation.
6) Quickly repeat steps 4 & 5 for key #2 etc.
If it does not work, try doing the keys in opposite order. Key 2 then key1, vs 1 then 2.

Do you have several keys? You have to reinitialize them all, quickly.

I have three masters and the order in which I program them might matter. You may want to try the procedure using key #1 then key #2, and if that does not work, key #2 then key #1...

Why did you have to initialize the keys in the first place? Did you get a new one? Did you change batteries?

How old or what condition is your vehicle battery?

How is the condition of your key batteries? (Any time you post tech questions, year of the car -along with model and in some cases, miles- is helpful.) If your car is a year that had replacement batteries in the key, it's best to start with all new batteries.

Which one does yours look like?
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Here, by the way, are the latest bestlinks for this subject:

- Diamond key functions (1) & the truth about the BMW diamond key transponder (1) and proper initializing (1) (2) and the truth about the 10-key limit to programming your own keys at home (1) & opening, charging, recoding, & battery replacement (1) of the new-style diamond key (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & converting the old-style 1996-2000 "square" key to a diamond key (1) & how to replace the rubber key pads in the old style keys (1) (2) & what to do if your key is locked inside your car (1) & a description of the various types of BMW "Remote", "Illuminated", "Spare/Wallet", & "Valet/Service" keys (1) (2).
 
#18 ·
Thanks guys all of the advice was very helpful. Especially thanks Anton I saved good money by the advice. The dealership was telling me around $250 to fix the problem which was easy to fix.
For anybody holding down the open button and than pressing the lock button 3 times does not work than try it the other way around i.e hold down the lock button and pressing the unlock button three times. That is what worked for me.
Thanks
 
#19 ·
I programmed a key a long time ago and everything worked fine for awhile. There is a feature that if you press the unlock button and keep it pressed, all the windows will go down and the sun roof opens. However, when you press the lock button and keep it pressed, the reverse process happens. However, the reverse process is not happening for me. Does anyone know why?

(Not related, but maybe it is) When one puts the gear in reverse (auto) the left side view mirror goes down. Mine stopped doing this on its own recently. Why?
 
#20 ·
I programmed a key a long time ago and everything worked fine for awhile.
1. There is a feature that if you press the unlock button and keep it pressed, all the windows will go down and the sun roof opens.
2. However, when you press the lock button and keep it pressed, the reverse process happens. However, the reverse process is not happening for me. Does anyone know why?

3. (Not related, but maybe it is) When one puts the gear in reverse (auto) the left side view mirror goes down. Mine stopped doing this on its own recently. Why?
Some Answers:

#2 -Unlike the remote down (convenience close feature)... the remote UP of windows is not initiated in the USA...to have this feature requires aftermarket software/hardware to initiate it. BUT...you can roll-up the windows and close the sunroof if you insert the key into the door lock cylinder, then turn & hold the key in the lock position until everything you want closed is closed.

In the USA only the Remote Convenience Open feature is initiated (unless turned on using aftermarket software/hardware)
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Convenience Open/Close feature using the key inserted into the door lock cylinder
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#3 - The pass mirror TILT feature is activated/deactivated based on the position of the switch on the driver's door control panel...see the info below from the owners manual:

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#22 ·
#24 ·
I have the exact same problem as you and nothing seems to work. New batteries and still I tried just about everything and still no keyless fubnction. I am not giving up! Any luck with you?
Is this issue with an e39 5 series or the e60 5 series you have listed under Mein Autos? If this is for an e60...I'm not sure the procedure is the same since the communication bus changed between the e39 & e60 generation.
 
#27 · (Edited)
My remote keyless entry has two parts; ignition key and the remote fob. I just had a new battery installed and remote security systems does not work. I found instructions on Google and Youtube but no success. Anyone know what to do?
Since this is a e39 5 series forum which is in the same BMW generation as the e38/e39/e46/e53...these models have integrated remote keys which contain 3 features EWS/FZV/DWA.

(this is what e46 3 series keys look like with build dates prior to 9/99)

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(this is what e46 3 series keys look like with build dates from 9/99up)

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I'm not sure if you have an e36 or e46 3 series since you only give the model year...and 1999 was the change-over year from the e36 to the e46 3 series. You'd probably get more help on which ever 3 series forum your model belongs to.

And if I had to make a wild guess...it would be that you have an e36 since that generation BMWs (e36/e34/e32) had separate remote fobs in some model years. Or...you may have an aftermarket remote if nothing indicates that it is original BMW remote.

If your remote fob & key looks similar to the diagram below...that is the optional remote keyless entry system that was offered during the e36/e34/e32 generation...and you'll probably find more help on any of those forums because the technology pre-dates owners on this forum. :)

 
#30 ·
1998 bmw 323is

I just bought a used 1998 bmw 323is from a dealer and i have no key, i need information on how to remove the cylinder from the ignition switch and replace it with another one, i was told that i will have to drill it out. this car came from copart with no key and i now am the owner, i would like to see if i can get it to run. thanks for any input from everone, please help, the bmw dealership wonts 75 dollars to get me a key, i called several key shops and they are telling me this is a high security key and i have to go to bmw to get one. tks
 
#31 ·
I just bought a used 1998 bmw 323is from a dealer and i have no key, i need information on how to remove the cylinder from the ignition switch and replace it with another one, i was told that i will have to drill it out. this car came from copart with no key and i now am the owner, i would like to see if i can get it to run. thanks for any input from everone, please help, the bmw dealership wonts 75 dollars to get me a key, i called several key shops and they are telling me this is a high security key and i have to go to bmw to get one. tks
I dare say that $75 for a key is a pretty good deal. I am "reasonably sure" that the price of an ignition switch and the coding to bypass the EWS would be more than 75. Not to mention that you still wouldn't be able to lock the doors, or rather open them with your method...
 
#34 · (Edited)
You can't program a key from anther BMW to start your car. Every BMW since Jan/1995 has had EWS II or higher. Each BMW has an ISN (individual serial number) that is burned into the DME/ECU, EWS control module, and key. The ISN assigned to each BMW must match all 3 of those components for the car to start.

If you swap from another BMW...you need the DME, EWS control module, and key to be able to start the car.

Which key is the dealership selling you for $75? If it's the illuminated (non remote key)...that's still a good price. And it would be much less of a headache it sounds like you're trying to settle for. Plus when said and done...if you need another key or eventually sell the car...it's going to be difficult to get another key after frankensteining the system. You'll have to look for an aftermarket vendor that understands EWS and what it takes to relieve the ISN and burn a new transponder and retrieve the key code from the EWS control module...just to get another key. When if you stay with the key/EWS system already in the car...all you have to do is give BMW your car's VIN and order a key and it comes already coded to your car.

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(The workshop hint in EWS 3.3 is referring to remote FZV {lock/unlock} & DWA {arm/disarm of alarm} key programming...NOT EWS programming)

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