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E39 how to clean throttle body

73K views 35 replies 15 participants last post by  lesguy  
#1 ·
Does anyone have a DIY link for cleaning the throttle body?
 
#2 ·
I have some advice for you.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT! Manually move the throttle plate with your hands. Because it is a drive-by-wire, any movement you induce can permanently damage the throttle body. Ask me how I know. :eek:uch:
 
#3 ·
heh i almost rather let it strand me now i have not problems YET but was told to look out for the throttle body getting too dirty , but seriously i may just have reputable bmw mechanics look at it and hold them responsible if anything thanks for the advice
 
#4 ·
I just replaced my Throttle Body due to a mysterious stalling issue. Codes were indicating Throttle Body problems. The replacement VDO Siemens unit was $245 for my 2003, 530.

My car had about 48K miles and the original throttle body was squeaky clean. I did however remove and clean my Idle Control Valve (ICV) with throttle body spray cleaner as preventative maintenance. ICV carbon build up was very minimal.

I think if you were determined to clean the Throttle Body, the safest bet would be to physically remove it from the intake manifold first. As PO540 stated, do not move the throttle plate manually.

It's a bit of a fussy job gaining access to these components (TB and ICV) on a 2003, so I wouldn't go poking around in there unless there was a specific issue to address. Just sayin'.
 

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#5 · (Edited)
I just replaced mine as well. At 188,xxx miles it was due.

After researching and getting a new one from getbmwparts.com ($430) I learned from various I-net sources that mechanics don't even want to breath on these things if they've been in there b/c even partial drive by wire ('99 and '00) as well as true drive by wire ('01+) throttle bodies are prone to failing if you mess with it. (think: replacing your CCV and hoses and removing to clean ICV)

That said: I was getting monthly codes for the TB for a while (cleared and off we go) before mine totally crapped out.

Can DIY if you have ediabas / INPA to reset adaptions for new TB.
 
#6 ·
I just had my throtle body out and cleaned it while replacing the ccv. I think I moved it once or twice by hand. How bad is this? Also, should the valve be completly closed? My had a little gap when I took it out. Is that normal. Thanks.
 
#9 ·
Most likely you didn't. If you did, your car would go into "engine fail-safe mode" and believe it or not it would give you a code on the information display area. It would show-up as a "throttle temporarily stuck" or the dreaded "throttle permanently stuck" message.
 
#12 ·
I need to check my throttle body for vacuum leaks (pending P1085, P1083, P0171, & P0174), especially since my I6 died thrice going down a miles-long steep (thousands of feet) hill on the edge of Silicon Valley.

Bobdmac kindly suggested I check my throttle body for leaks; so I'm looking for a DIY that shows 'where' the throttle body is located.

Realoem shows a 'throttle housing assembly' but no locational information.

Is the throttle body just below the DISA (which is what this picture) intimates?

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#14 ·
The arm's thumb is on the throttle body ... See Fundman's DIY
Ah, perfect. I wasn't sure if what was in the picture 'was' the throttle body (because the picture came from google images with no writeup), or, if the throttle body was removed and that was something else he was pointing to.

Interestingly, I found the Fudman CCV DIY instantly using the /fudman(F3) in the bestlinks - and it was the very first hit - took about 1 second! :)
- Fudman CCV (aka PCV CVV) M54 replacement DIY

Reading that 8-hour job, I see how the removal steps work their way to the throttle body, so I can follow the arrows to the throttle body itself; but he has no pictures of the throttle body in situ. Looking at the car, I can see why. It's buried deeply in there! (No wonder we use the spray-can flamethrower-like accuracy method!)

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Taking aim with the Brakleen & with carbeurator cleaner, I fired away. Again and again and again. Like a kid with a new double-barreled Nerf gun, I fired at everything I could with the two fluids. Maybe it was a hallucination but once or twice I 'thought' I heard an almost imperceptible change in engine speed firing at the vicinity of the throttle body, but only with the Brakleen (not with the California carb cleaner). If there was an engine speed change, it certainly was not dramatic.

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Thinking ahead, I had cleared the codes before firing; lo and behold, the same four codes were pending for me, when I completed the half-hour test. Hmmmm.

Note: One thing we need is a picture of all the "aim" points, instead of this random firing at anything that moves trick.

BTW, additionally, I did the suction-of-the-oil cap trick, and it certainly had plenty of suction and dramatically changed the engine speed when I removed the oil filler cap. I forgot to test the dip stick suction (will do that later & report back).
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#16 ·
( What do these indicate?
Oil filler cap (or oil dipstick) suction is a measure of the operation of the CCV.

  • Too much --> Bad CCV
  • Too little --> Bad CCV
  • Just right --> Good CCV
See this thread where we're debugging whether the CCV has a problem.
- Pictorial DIY for an M54 spark plug replacement on a 2002 BMW 525i E39 with 95K miles

I need to find a manometer to see if I have the right numbers.

You should have 3"-6" of vacuum pressure, as measured by a manometer, at the oil fill cap or the dipstick tube. However, this is not a foolproof means of determining CCV function.
- How to test CCV?

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#17 ·
#18 ·
I just realized, when I did my alternator last August, I was tantalizingly close to seeing the throttle body in my own M54 engine!
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)

See this pic from post #93.

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#20 ·
Hope this helps
It does! Thanks.

Amazingly, even with half the stuff removed, they're 'still' buried in there!

BTW, I started a work-in-progress thread (in my secret hiding spot) showing a picture of all the hidden components in the M54 engine, one by one.

IT's not easy as I don't know where they are myself (e.g., the CMP, CKP, etc.), but, as they 'show up' in threads, I'll capture them, ad hoc, and over time, the thread will be 'ready' to publish.

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#23 ·
My 2003 car that I bought new, now has 230,000 miles on her. I have cleaned the throttlebody by removing the part and cleaning with throttlebody cleaner every 40k miles since she was new--along with the ICV. Now concerning moving the plate in the throttlebody--I have opened it all the way open and held it there very time I cleaned the part--have never had a problem with doing this--thats the way I have done the procedure and it's worked well for me--
 
#24 ·
I have opened it all the way open and held it there very time I cleaned the part
Two things still confuse me about the throttle body cleaning and opening the plate.

1. Mine seemed clean as a whistle when I looked at the large and small opening. There was just a tiny amount of brown 'stuff'. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner in situ - but it really looked spiffy the way it was. I wonder why people need to clean it if all of them are this clean?

2. I moved slightly the plate (unknowingly) while the throttle body was attached to the engine and with the battery in place. I wonder if it makes a difference that you cleaned yours out of the car, where there were no energized electrical connections to worry about?
 
#25 ·
May , be just the fact tha I do unplug the part before cleaning it--but when cleaning with the part still on the car you only see the front side of the tb--there are carbon build up behind the throttleplate that need to be removed as well as the build up in front--thatswas a nice run on sentence wasn't it.
 
#26 · (Edited)
with the part still on the car you only see the front side of the tb
Ah, I understand both points.
I. I could only clean 'half' the throttle body on the vehicle ... and ...
2. It's probably safer to unplug the battery when moving the throttle body plate (which, in effect, removing it from the car does).

Thanks.
 
#27 ·
Throttle body is just a barrel of metal and only air passes through it and may be some gas vapors sucked from the T connection on top of air intake. I do not think it can get very dirty. The cleaning will not achieve anything.

Having said that I cleaned it after 127 K mile. It was fine, did not need any cleaning at all.

Regards,
 
#29 ·
Jim--Noticed that you took the cover off of yours --did you do that to clean the workings? If so, do you use white grease or something like it before closing it back up? I bought a spare back years ago for 20bucks that came off a car with 15k miles--car was totaled and thought it would be a good thing to have a spare someday--Thanks
 
#30 ·
No grease, I used MAF cleaner on the dual pot that is under the gear that has the spring on top of it. The 4 white wires connect to the pot.
After cleaning it I sprayed on a little Radio Shack volume control cleaner/lubricant.
 
#31 ·
Thanks for the responce--never had the cover off of the one thats on the car--but did remove the cover on the spare--pandora's box thing I guess--I have heard that if you use another TB that you need to have the car reprogramed to accept the new TB--do you know if that is so or not? May only need to disconnect the bat and touch the ends of the cables to make the car relearn and program the tb again--don't know, but if I need to use the other tb would be good info before starting down the path--Thanks
 
#32 ·
I have heard that if you use another TB that you need to have the car reprogramed to accept the new TB
You need to "reset engine adaption" by going to an Indy or using Ediabas / INPA on your laptop.

Reset adaptions, perform key-on key-off 30 second trick (varies for M52TU versus M54 motors) and you are good to go.

:)
 
#35 ·
This update today suggests an important place to clean periodically:
Hi all, I want to give a warning to everyone concerning some easy but important maintenance that often gets over looked but can be devastating if not done.

Spring is here, the rainy season! Its very important Make sure that the water drain tube on the cabin filters are cleared out and free of debris. The drains are small and can get clogged with leaves easily. A Clogged drain on the drivers side will cause the water to back up inside the housing and leak down and puddle underneath the brake booster. The brake booster (sitting in water) sucks in the water and in turn sends it to the vacuum line then gets sucked into the intake naturally by the engine. Has it rained? Is your brake pedal very stiff? Car running rough? White smoke out of the tail pipe? Check the filer drain!! The brake pedal is the dead give away! Don't run the car until you clean out the water. The more it runs the more its sucking water in.

I have a 2000 528i that that wouldn't start. Among many other probs, it had Water inside the intake boots and inside the throttle body which killed it by the way. It was a mystery to me how it got there until today. This is the second time it's acted like that on me. Both times it rained heavily. First time it cleared itself out so i didnt worry anymore. This time it didnt so i Checked and of course the drain was clogged. Cleared the drain, removed the water around the booster and after a little while the everything was back to normal running condition.
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