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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-03-2011, 07:02 AM
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Shires Shires is offline
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DIY: how to repair a rattling DISA unit

Over time the DISA valve can begin to rattle. I believe that this can develop further with parts inside the unit breaking. Here is how you can repair a rattling DISA unit, assuming it suffers the same failure mode as the unit pictured.

DISCLAIMER: This part is inside the intake tract. Following this DIY could severely damage your engine. I take no responsibility for your actions.

The DISA unit is attached to the side of the intake manifold by two T40 torx bolts. At the top is an electrical connector that must be disconnected before removal.

Once removed from the car, use a precision screwdriver or similar implement to coax out the small (approx. 1" length) retaining pin from the top of the DISA flap.



Turn the unit over and remove the cover circled in the picture.



There is a small arm that comes from an actuator and connects to a plastic spindle.

Pry off the retaining clip. Remember orientation for later re-installation.



Then pop the actuating arm off.



Turn the unit over. Again using a precision screwdriver, push in and lever down to release the white, plastic "snap fit" spindle from the bottom of the DISA flap. This may take patience.



Here's a shot of the spindle and flap. The mating surfaces are hexagonal, but not perfectly hexagonal. Both are keyed so that they can be joined only in one orientation.

There are approximately 90,000 miles on the unit pictured. The spindle and flap have worked against each other on this unit and rounded off the edges slightly. This play in the mechanism allows the flap to rattle in the turbulent environment of the intake manifold.

Take both parts and clean thorougly, using brake or carb cleaner as a final step to remove grease.



Here is a shot of the unit with the spindle removed. There is what looks like a spring loaded rubber sealing ring on the outside, which seals the unit.



In order to remove play between the spindle and flap, and to secure the top retaining pin, use adhesive. This will stop the rattle and prevent further wear.

I chose two part expoy resin, to act both as an adhesive and packing agent. This will survive in the intake environment, and is not especially brittle when hardened.



Place a small amount of adhesive inside the flap, both at the hexagonal opening and the smaller hole for the retaining pin.

Keep the adhesive a few mm away from the opening itself, to reduce risk of adhesive being forced out when the DISA is reassembled (this would jam the valve open).



Reinstall the flap first, the top retaining pin second, and lastly the plastic spindle:

Note 1: Take care to ensure that the flap is correctly orientated before inserting anything else, and recall that the spindle can only be installed in one particular orientation.

Note 2: Both insertions must be done correctly the first time as withdrawing either item will also withdraw adhesive, and so foul the mechanism.


Re-install the actuating arm and retaining clip on the spindle, and then the small cover. As the adhesive has not hardened, there is still play in the mechanism. Turn the flap slightly towards the closed position, so that the epoxy resin will cure in this position. This may reduce the risk of the flap being unable to close due to the wear in the mechanism.



Leave to cure in a warm dry place in this position for 24 hours, then re-install on the car.

You'll notice the valve pictured has sensor safe RTV sealant on it, from a previous re-installation. This was not sufficient to make a good seal, as the vicinity of the sealing area was coated in grit, indicating that there was a vacuum leak. As a temporary measure, I have wrapped two strips of electricians tape around the sealing ring.



If you run premium (high octane fuel) and have access to software such as INPA, now may be a good time to reset the knock adaptation values, however this is not necessary. I suspect (but could be wrong) that the rattling DISA has the potential to confuse the knock sensors.
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  #2  
Old 05-03-2011, 08:33 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Pretty decent repair method. Kudos to you
However, I have a question: how confident are you the epoxy will hold? If the plastic (mating surfaces) were worn, you will need to fill ALL the gaps, so as no void is left once you place the spindle in place. If there is one air bubble, I believe you will be at square one again. The problem is, when you put the epoxy inside, then slide the spindle, will this not create some sort of pump effect - pumping air inside and removing the epoxy? You will have some epoxy left inside, but it will not fill up all the voids. I would drill a small hole in the bottom of the flapper, so as the excess resine will squirt out, and at the end it will also seal that hole. You will be 100% sure that all the voids are filled with resine. This might help with the longevity of this DIY.
Anyways, as I said kudos to you. And I believe, you have to do this before the "hexagons" are rounded off too much, and you don't know what the exact position of the flapper vs the body of the valve is.
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2011, 10:28 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is online now
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Nice explanation, well documented with photographs. Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2011, 10:35 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This is great! I applaud anyone who takes the tremendous time & effort to write and document a DIY!

The DISA is on the list for many of us, waiting for the right shaped tuit to arrive in the mail!

I'm going to add this pronto to the bestlinks so that others can easily find this in the future.

Here's the incrementally improved bestlinks 'paragraph' on the DISA, your addition highlighted in red:

- How to repair a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can cause all sorts of cold-engine idle problems (1) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & an example of how a broken DISA valve can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1) (2) (3) (4).

Last edited by bluebee; 05-03-2011 at 10:43 AM.
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2011, 11:22 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Very well done!
Thank you Sir!
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:19 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Great write-up, much appreciated.

Sidenote: My '99 528i has the replaceable O-ring seal that you can order from most online parts vendors or even from your local BMW dealer. Other than that, judging from the pics, these DISA units seem pretty much the same animal across all I6 models. Which makes me wonder, was it simply the greed factor that compelled BMW to "modify" the O-ring and stop supplying it as a replacement part? I'd like to hear their explanation on this one.
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  #7  
Old 05-03-2011, 12:30 PM
aioros aioros is online now
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I kid you not, I did the exact same thing to the DISA valve of both cars that I own. They are working working good.
Kudos for the DIY!
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2011, 07:46 AM
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Shires Shires is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
I have a question: how confident are you the epoxy will hold?
I have used this adhesive quite a bit over the years and I'm confident it'll work in this application on my car. I had a look at the spec sheet for it online, and that eased some concerns about the adhesive breaking down in the manifold and/or shattering.

I'm not a materials engineer or anything of the sort, it's just my sense of things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
If the plastic (mating surfaces) were worn, you will need to fill ALL the gaps, so as no void is left once you place the spindle in place. If there is one air bubble, I believe you will be at square one again. The problem is, when you put the epoxy inside, then slide the spindle, will this not create some sort of pump effect - pumping air inside and removing the epoxy? You will have some epoxy left inside, but it will not fill up all the voids. I would drill a small hole in the bottom of the flapper, so as the excess resine will squirt out, and at the end it will also seal that hole. You will be 100% sure that all the voids are filled with resine. This might help with the longevity of this DIY.
Have a look at the below picture. There's a hole in the middle of the flap though which excess resin can be pushed out. The spindle isn't such a snug fit that it would prevent the epoxy being pushed through. In my case I did get a bit of excess pushed out through there.



Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Anyways, as I said kudos to you. And I believe, you have to do this before the "hexagons" are rounded off too much, and you don't know what the exact position of the flapper vs the body of the valve is
Absolutely. Although in saying that I believe that it doesn't need to be exact, just "close enough" - otherwise with the wear in it, my repair method wouldn't have worked.

Thanks!
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2011, 07:50 AM
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Shires Shires is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aioros View Post
I kid you not, I did the exact same thing to the DISA valve of both cars that I own. They are working working good.
Kudos for the DIY!
This is good to know, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
judging from the pics, these DISA units seem pretty much the same animal across all I6 models. Which makes me wonder, was it simply the greed factor that compelled BMW to "modify" the O-ring and stop supplying it as a replacement part? I'd like to hear their explanation on this one.
There are many such items that fail on these cars and I have grown a bit tired of the "replace it" game, which is why I attempted to repair the unit. Also on a tangent I did notice that the flap itself had a part number on it, although I wasn't looking closely enough to determine if it was a BMW or a BOSCH part number, or even if it was distinct number from the DISA unit itself.
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  #10  
Old 06-29-2011, 11:52 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shires View Post
I have grown a bit tired of the "replace it" game, which is why I attempted to repair the unit
For the record, today a thread was posted where the OP is trying to repair 'this' DISA valve!
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by brickwhite View Post
Think I can fix it?
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2011, 06:08 AM
brickwhite brickwhite is offline
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I won't be able to repair with what I have left, but most of those parts where there. The missing are small and plastic, hope my engine eats plastic well. Thanks for the reply
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2011, 09:54 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickwhite View Post
I won't be able to repair with what I have left, but most of those parts were there. The missing are small and plastic, hope my engine eats plastic well.
Whew! Before you belatedly added that you were 'just kidding' in that prior referenced post, we all thought you were seriously contemplating fixing the DISA valve!

Any plastic parts sucked into the engine can destroy your engine:
- An example of how a broken DISA valve can ruin your engine (1)

Good came of your thread because we belatedly realized that we should visually inspect the DISA whenever the airbox is out of the car (and, at the latest, at 85K to 90K miles).

So, I added your thread to the bestlinks reference on the DISA:

- How to repair a rattling DISA unit (1) (2) (3) & why the DIfferenzierte SAuganlage ("Differential Air Intake") valve flap breaks (1), sometimes with parts sucked into the intake manifold (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & how the disa valve o-ring fails (1) (2) & how it can cause all sorts of cold-engine rough idle problems (1) (2) & where to get just the DISA valve o-ring (1) & how the DISA valve operates (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) & an example of how a broken DISA valve can ruin your engine (1) & how to test DISA operation (1) (2) (3) (4) & when you should inspect your DISA valve at 85-90K miles (1).
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2011, 07:54 AM
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Shires Shires is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
For the record, today a thread was posted where the OP is trying to repair 'this' DISA valve!
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve



Hmm. Looks a bit Humpy Dumpty to be honest.

Last edited by Shires; 07-01-2011 at 07:56 AM.
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  #14  
Old 07-02-2011, 01:14 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shires View Post
Over time the DISA valve can begin to rattle.
BTW, I noticed we lost, somehow, the DISA rattling video from the bestlinks:
NOISE VIDEOS:
  • - VANOS rattling noise video (1) (2)
  • - Water pump impeller noise video (1)
  • - Water pump bearing bearing noise video (1)
  • - Alternator bearing or pulley cold-idle noise video [went away with a belt-drive system overhaul] (1)
  • - Alternator clicking noise [went away with a new alternator] (1)
  • - Unknown noise video (oil pump bolts?) (1)
  • - DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") valve o-ring failure symptoms video (1)
  • - DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") rattles (1)
  • - Air conditioning compressor knocking sounds (1)
  • etc.
So, may I ask, that we all ask the next person who has a DISA rattle to produce a video for us so that we may reference it for all to benefit?
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  #15  
Old 07-13-2011, 05:37 PM
nate13 nate13 is offline
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RE: Youtube Video Request

Here's my go at the noise, hope it helps!


Last edited by nate13; 07-13-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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  #16  
Old 07-13-2011, 06:02 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate13 View Post
Here's my go at the noise
Perfect!

Thanks for being one of the top few % who take the time to pitch in to help the team.

I'll add it to the bestlinks (right now, my connection is dismally slow so I'm afraid it might destroy the bestlinks ... which has happened before).

Here's what it will look like:
NOISE VIDEOS: VANOS rattling noise (1) (2) & water pump impeller noise (1) & water pump bearing bearing noise (1) & alternator bearing or pulley cold-idle noise video [went away with a belt-drive system overhaul] (1) & alternator clicking noise [went away with a new alternator] (1) & reputed loose oil pump bolt noise (1) & DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") valve o-ring failure symptoms video (1) & DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") rattles (0) (1) & air conditioning A/C compressor knocking sounds (1).

Last edited by bluebee; 07-13-2011 at 06:03 PM.
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  #17  
Old 09-20-2011, 12:03 PM
nate13 nate13 is offline
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I'm going to be taking a stab at this during the coming weekend. I've done a bit of searching, and would like some peer confidence in my choice of adhesive...

So far, I'm swayed toward JB Weld, because it adheres to almost anything but Polypropylene plastic and Polyethylene plastic.

I also have some 5minute epoxy that has the same caveat with plastic, and lacks the metal adhesion of JB.

Does anyone think that this part is either polypropylene or polyethylene? It is cited to be used in Automotive because of it's chemical resistance and durability...

Sadly my organic chemistry background hasn't prepared me for petrol/plastic work as well as i'd hope...
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2011, 01:17 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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this is too important part to play with repairs
plastic do not last long and new costs about 170-180$ ( with a NEW DESIGN so we hope it will last longer )
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=506374&page=2

Last edited by champaign777; 09-20-2011 at 01:25 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2012, 10:10 AM
farrin57 farrin57 is offline
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the spindle in the disa valve flap broke can it be fixed?
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2012, 03:28 PM
Valorum Valorum is offline
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Noob alert: Which models does this apply to / Where would i find the DISA in my 540? (I looked and didn't see anything obvious looking like this.)
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2012, 03:32 PM
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jayster0966 jayster0966 is offline
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Applies to I6 vehicles.
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2012, 04:25 PM
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Just for the record, nowadays, the solution should be this:
- DISA Valve repair kit
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #23  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:13 AM
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It scares me sometimes how people "repair" a rattling DISA valve:
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxtorrentxx View Post
yes i did remove the disa...now here is the thing...the bottom little stub that the butterfly door sits on seemed to have snapped off so i made a makeshift stub...a little plastic piece that i hot glue gunned in the place of the old one....and i just opened the disa again today and noticed that the glue seemed to have evaporated and the stub loosened off.....so i made another makeshift stub this time a metal pipe hopefully it lets up...i dnt want to have to spend another 300 on a disa if i dnt have to...
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  #24  
Old 12-16-2012, 06:19 AM
farrin57 farrin57 is offline
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It can be done so easy

I purchased the DISA valve repair kit and fix the problem in no time at all. the kit came with step by step color directions and all the supplys even a q-tip.
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2013, 11:06 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrin57 View Post
I purchased the DISA valve repair kit and fix the problem in no time at all. the kit came with step by step color directions and all the supplys even a q-tip.
What supplier did you use?
GAS or AutoTech USA or ?


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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 08-15-2013 at 11:17 AM.
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