Over time the DISA valve can begin to rattle. I believe that this can develop further with parts inside the unit breaking. Here is how you can repair a rattling DISA unit, assuming it suffers the same failure mode as the unit pictured.
DISCLAIMER: This part is inside the intake tract. Following this DIY could severely damage your engine. I take no responsibility for your actions.
The DISA unit is attached to the side of the intake manifold by two T40 torx bolts. At the top is an electrical connector that must be disconnected before removal.
Once removed from the car, use a precision screwdriver or similar implement to coax out the small (approx. 1" length) retaining pin from the top of the DISA flap.
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Turn the unit over and remove the cover circled in the picture.
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There is a small arm that comes from an actuator and connects to a plastic spindle.
Pry off the retaining clip. Remember orientation for later re-installation.
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Then pop the actuating arm off.
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Turn the unit over. Again using a precision screwdriver, push in and lever down to release the white, plastic "snap fit" spindle from the bottom of the DISA flap. This may take patience.
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Here's a shot of the spindle and flap. The mating surfaces are hexagonal, but not perfectly hexagonal. Both are keyed so that they can be joined only in one orientation.
There are approximately 90,000 miles on the unit pictured. The spindle and flap have worked against each other on this unit and rounded off the edges slightly. This play in the mechanism allows the flap to rattle in the turbulent environment of the intake manifold.
Take both parts and clean thorougly, using brake or carb cleaner as a final step to remove grease.
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Here is a shot of the unit with the spindle removed. There is what looks like a spring loaded rubber sealing ring on the outside, which seals the unit.
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In order to remove play between the spindle and flap, and to secure the top retaining pin, use adhesive. This will stop the rattle and prevent further wear.
I chose two part expoy resin, to act both as an adhesive and packing agent. This will survive in the intake environment, and is not especially brittle when hardened.
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Place a small amount of adhesive inside the flap, both at the hexagonal opening and the smaller hole for the retaining pin.
Keep the adhesive a few mm away from the opening itself, to reduce risk of adhesive being forced out when the DISA is reassembled (this would jam the valve open).
![Image]()
Reinstall the flap first, the top retaining pin second, and lastly the plastic spindle:
Note 1: Take care to ensure that the flap is correctly orientated before inserting anything else, and recall that the spindle can only be installed in one particular orientation.
Note 2: Both insertions must be done correctly the first time as withdrawing either item will also withdraw adhesive, and so foul the mechanism.
Re-install the actuating arm and retaining clip on the spindle, and then the small cover. As the adhesive has not hardened, there is still play in the mechanism. Turn the flap slightly towards the closed position, so that the epoxy resin will cure in this position. This may reduce the risk of the flap being unable to close due to the wear in the mechanism.
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Leave to cure in a warm dry place in this position for 24 hours, then re-install on the car.
You'll notice the valve pictured has sensor safe RTV sealant on it, from a previous re-installation. This was not sufficient to make a good seal, as the vicinity of the sealing area was coated in grit, indicating that there was a vacuum leak. As a temporary measure, I have wrapped two strips of electricians tape around the sealing ring.
![Image]()
If you run premium (high octane fuel) and have access to software such as INPA, now may be a good time to reset the knock adaptation values, however this is not necessary. I suspect (but could be wrong) that the rattling DISA has the potential to confuse the knock sensors.
DISCLAIMER: This part is inside the intake tract. Following this DIY could severely damage your engine. I take no responsibility for your actions.
The DISA unit is attached to the side of the intake manifold by two T40 torx bolts. At the top is an electrical connector that must be disconnected before removal.
Once removed from the car, use a precision screwdriver or similar implement to coax out the small (approx. 1" length) retaining pin from the top of the DISA flap.
Turn the unit over and remove the cover circled in the picture.
There is a small arm that comes from an actuator and connects to a plastic spindle.
Pry off the retaining clip. Remember orientation for later re-installation.
Then pop the actuating arm off.
Turn the unit over. Again using a precision screwdriver, push in and lever down to release the white, plastic "snap fit" spindle from the bottom of the DISA flap. This may take patience.
Here's a shot of the spindle and flap. The mating surfaces are hexagonal, but not perfectly hexagonal. Both are keyed so that they can be joined only in one orientation.
There are approximately 90,000 miles on the unit pictured. The spindle and flap have worked against each other on this unit and rounded off the edges slightly. This play in the mechanism allows the flap to rattle in the turbulent environment of the intake manifold.
Take both parts and clean thorougly, using brake or carb cleaner as a final step to remove grease.
Here is a shot of the unit with the spindle removed. There is what looks like a spring loaded rubber sealing ring on the outside, which seals the unit.
In order to remove play between the spindle and flap, and to secure the top retaining pin, use adhesive. This will stop the rattle and prevent further wear.
I chose two part expoy resin, to act both as an adhesive and packing agent. This will survive in the intake environment, and is not especially brittle when hardened.
Place a small amount of adhesive inside the flap, both at the hexagonal opening and the smaller hole for the retaining pin.
Keep the adhesive a few mm away from the opening itself, to reduce risk of adhesive being forced out when the DISA is reassembled (this would jam the valve open).
Reinstall the flap first, the top retaining pin second, and lastly the plastic spindle:
Note 1: Take care to ensure that the flap is correctly orientated before inserting anything else, and recall that the spindle can only be installed in one particular orientation.
Note 2: Both insertions must be done correctly the first time as withdrawing either item will also withdraw adhesive, and so foul the mechanism.
Re-install the actuating arm and retaining clip on the spindle, and then the small cover. As the adhesive has not hardened, there is still play in the mechanism. Turn the flap slightly towards the closed position, so that the epoxy resin will cure in this position. This may reduce the risk of the flap being unable to close due to the wear in the mechanism.
Leave to cure in a warm dry place in this position for 24 hours, then re-install on the car.
You'll notice the valve pictured has sensor safe RTV sealant on it, from a previous re-installation. This was not sufficient to make a good seal, as the vicinity of the sealing area was coated in grit, indicating that there was a vacuum leak. As a temporary measure, I have wrapped two strips of electricians tape around the sealing ring.
If you run premium (high octane fuel) and have access to software such as INPA, now may be a good time to reset the knock adaptation values, however this is not necessary. I suspect (but could be wrong) that the rattling DISA has the potential to confuse the knock sensors.
