M54 vacuum tubing ... what diameter ... what brand ... what material ... what length?

bluebee · Oct 14, 2011

For the record, I added up the cost of the hoses over here just now:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

bluebee said:
To that end, here is, as far as I can construct, the list of those generic vacuum hoses above:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)

03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)

07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)

09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator

13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82

11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87

Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine

02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17

03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77

04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77

Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.73

03 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87

04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37

06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s)

07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87

Total vacuum hose nominal cost sans CCV system = $186.45 (assuming $5 for the vacuum cap); $310.11 if you add the CCV hoses; and $367.74 if you add the CCV valve (plus 8.75% sales tax).

QUESTION: Are there any 'other' M54 vacuum hoses that we missed?

timarnold · Oct 14, 2011

Just for clarification's sake, 3,5x1,8 Vacuum Hose means an ID of 3.5mm with a wall thickness of 1.8mm.

bluebee · Oct 14, 2011

timarnold said:
Just for clarification's sake, 3,5x1,8 Vacuum Hose means an ID of 3.5mm with a wall thickness of 1.8mm.

Thanks for clarifying. That means my prior hose-size calculations are wrong (since I had assumed it was ODxID as shown in red and blue below.

So a 3.5mm ID is in between 1/8" and 9/64" as shown in orange below.

Going to the autoparts store to mix & match still netted me the wrong size (5/32" instead of 1/8"; but at least the mistake isn't as bad as I first had feared.

Given the ID of 3.5mm, would you agree that the 'right' commonly available American-sized vacuum hose would be 1/8" ID? (and not the 5/32" that the auto parts store matched up for me)

doru · Oct 14, 2011

Bluebee. Poolman mentioned the 3.5 x 1.8 mm hoses from the dealer, are the updated part now, with a braid around them to protect the hose from heat, much like some O2 sensors have their electric wires protected - incidentally I replaced one of those "protected" wired O2 sensors from a different car I have last week, and the wires looked in pristine shape. Not sure if the rubber hose itself has been "updated", but BMW aknowledged that these hoses get heat damage in time. If I were you I would stick with the updated OEM part. I would also search (which you probably did) and find a cheaper alternative than the dealer. I purchase from the dealer when I'm in a bind, and yes the prices are horrendous.
But I am not sure you need to change ALL the rubber hoses you mentioned.
"Heat stroke" affected hoses are those skinny vacuum rubber lines.
The CCV rubber lines usually fail together with the CCV. In the CCV system, you can get "burned" with a higher gas consumption when the CCV clogs up or if the oil passage in the dipstick is clogged.
The rubber hoses that service the fuel lines (vacuum to fuel pressure regulator and fuel breather) are not in a hot environment. They can crack in time, but those fail rarely. The lines that service the jet pump - I don't know - honestly I saw the jet pump failing once in a while, but not the rubbers.

As a side note, when I changed the fuel filter, I had a hard time to replace the rubber lines - they got hardened, and they were hard to cut even with a utility knife (I had to make sure I don't nick the metal pipes or my hand). And I remeber I had to buy the hose by meter, and was not a bank breaker. You then have to cut it for the length you need and replace it. So it's not that p/n (11657803732) multiplied by 2.
Cheers

timarnold · Oct 14, 2011

I used 1/8" tubing and it worked fine. Since it was a little tighter, I used a litle dab of o-ring lube (great stuff, BTW) to make it easier to install.

bluebee · Oct 14, 2011

timarnold said:
I used 1/8" tubing ... I used a litle dab of o-ring lube

That's a great idea!

The best the auto parts stores could do for me was the too-large 5/32" ID "Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing" ... so I'm beginning to be convinced we need to find a MAIL ORDER supplier of a few feet of this stuff.

It seems we need:

About 3 feet of 1/8" ID vacuum tubing (3.5mm ID actual spec)
Braided seems to be preferred
Silicone seems to be suggested for heat resistance

The question is WHERE to get that as I did not find anything like it at the local Autozone & O'Reilly Auto Parts stores.

poolman said:
You need to go back behind the intake on the driverside and replace the hose's back there as well.

I looked today. Not easy to see that second #4 hose without removing stuff. Nor could I see the #7 hose, which is apparently in the back of the engine.

My first thought is what has to be removed to access those hoses?

Looking in the bestlinks for SAS replacement DIYs:
- SAS (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

I find Poolman suggesting a flashlight:

poolman said:
you will need a flashlight and a mirror to see whats going on back there.

And, cn90 has photos from underneath the engine.

Is a light under the engine the best way to get access to replace those two hoses?

BTW, this post #2 says there is yet another 'large plastic" hose not pictured in the secondary air system diagram that needs replacing:

Jase007 said:
Cheap insurance to replace diverter valve (#1, #2, #8), vacuum hose to it (#4), large plastic 2nd air injection hose to/from 2nd air injection pump(not pictured) as they will prolong the life of your 2nd-ary air injection pump (proper working diaphragm in the diverter valve ensures closing to prevents hot acidic air/gases back into the SAP unit).

Is 'this' 'pressure hose that large plastic hose Jase007 was referring to?
Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP

poolman said:
I replaced all of my small hoses with the braided type--lasts forever that stuff does.

I didn't realize this was a parts upgrade at the dealer until Doru mentioned it below.

doru said:
Bluebee. Poolman mentioned the 3.5 x 1.8 mm hoses from the dealer, are the updated part now, with a braid around them to protect the hose from heat

Until you mentioned it, I didn't realize that was what Poolman was talking about.

From this thread, I thought Poolman bought his braided hose at O'Reilly Auto Parts:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > What is the Diverter Valve and how to replace it

poolman said:
I used a heavy duty vac hose to replace the hose's back there--bought it by the foot from O'Reilly's
the hose looks like it has threads running through it and is much stronger than the OEM hose material.

It sure would be nice to see a PICTURE of that braided hose - and perhaps a part number (or description) as I couldn't find 'any' braided vacuum hose in the auto parts stores.

All I could find was this braided fuel-injection hose at O'Reillys:

doru said:
I am not sure you need to change ALL the rubber hoses you mentioned. "Heat stroke" affected hoses are those skinny vacuum rubber lines.

Sounds like a decent plan to first replace the 3.5 mm ID x 1.8 mm thick braided vacuum hoses hoses (which is between 1/8" & 9/64" in inside diameter).

In addition, nobody seemed to have 'silicone' vacuum hose as suggested by 540 M-Sport over here:

540 M-Sport said:
the important attribute you need for those hoses is heat resistance...in that instance silicone hose generally works best.

For example, this is all that O'Reillys had for vacuum hose:

Q1: Would someone kindly snap a picture of the OEM updated braided hoses for the team so we can see what it looks like?

Q2: What has to be removed in order to access the SAS hoses in back of the engine (do we access them from underneath)?

Q3: Where can we get a few feet of braided, silicone, 3.5 mm ID (between 1/8" & 9/64") vacuum hose?

Jason5driver · Oct 14, 2011

bluebee said:
Hmmm.... that may work ... but if the nominal prices in Realoem are any indication, it will cost three hundred dollars to replace all the vacuum hoses at Realoem prices. Double and even triple that if my experience at the Silicon Valley BMW dealerships (San Jose, Mountainview, Fremont) are any example.

Just the five tiny SAS-related hoses would cost $61 + about six dollars tax at Realoem nominal prices shown in the diagram below:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

Then add $25 nominal dollars plus $2.50 tax for the two 'sucking jet pump' vacuum hoses, as shown in the diagram below:

Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine

And then add $92 plus $9 tax for the ccv-related hoses as shown in the diagram below:

Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

Then add $56 + $5 tax for the two fuel tank breather lines (i.e., the big vacuum hose connected to the MAF-area F connector) as shown in the diagram below:

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

Add another $40 + $4 tax for the two fuel filter related vacuum lines (i.e., the small vacuum hose connected to the MAF-area F connector) as shown in the diagram below:

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator

Without even adding up whatever inevitable hoses I missed ... the net is ... a whoppingly huge $300 dollars at Realoem nominal prices to replace just the vacuum hoses that I can find myself.

My three Silicon Valley BMW dealers (San Jose, Fremont, & Mountainview) typically charge twice to three times the Realoem prices ... so ... that's between five hundred and a thousand dollars just to replace the vacuum hoses that I've identified - for just the hoses!

Jason: I may have missed something big here (and it wouldn't be the first time).

Please explain:
Q: How could replacing just these hoses at these nominal prices possibly be a good deal at the BMW dealer?

I don't need the MASSIVE amount info. and links for the hoses you need.
Unless you like to post HUGE amounts of stuff that just bogs down the server and the forum...

And, I am not saying you need to replace ALL the hoses under the hood of your car.
Ridiculous.
And, if you can't afford to buy vacuum hoses for this car (E39), then you bought the WRONG car, period.
And, who actually gets prices/ price quotes from Real OEM????
Why not call, or check out a vendor's site, then price the few items you need.
Not every single rubber hose within your car...
By trying to make-shift vacuum hoses for your car, you are going to end up with MORE vacuum leaks and problems IMO.

:tsk:

bluebee · Oct 17, 2011

Jason5driver said:
I don't need the MASSIVE amount info. and links for the hoses you need.

YOU don't need it; but people who are like I am, certainly do.

For example, you inherently know there are vacuum caps to be ordered and replaced. I don't.
You inherently know exactly which scattered-about hoses to replace when lean conditions are observed. I don't.
You inherently know when to buy from the dealer and when to buy better parts online. I don't.
You inherently know when the Realoem diagrams are wrong (e.g., in the case of the L-connector versus the F-connector). I don't.
You inherently know what the size designations indicate in Realoem diagrams. I don't.

I don't inherently know anything about the M54, like you seem to. I have to learn it. Piece by piece. (The good news is I disseminate that learning, so that others benefit from the effort; so it's worth helping me understand.)

But, I don't think everyone inherently knows everything like you do.

Worse yet, even when they know, people's descriptions vary so greatly that, even if we actually KNEW where all E39 problematic hoses were, we'd STILL have problems identifying them for sure (both by part number, and by auto-parts-store replacement size and by engine location).

Plus, finding part numbers on realoem is problematic because they're scattered about, and, the diagrams are wrong in some cases (e.g., CCV & sucking jet pump) and downright confusing in others (e.g., fuel tank breather & pressure regulator).

Jason5driver said:
And, I am not saying you need to replace ALL the hoses under the hood of your car.

All we're asking is WHICH vacuum hoses often need to be replaced?
And with what (since Realoem nominal prices are astronomical)?

It appears, from this thread, that only the smaller-diameter hoses are the ones most often in need of replacement, for example:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

Jason5driver said:
If you can't afford to buy vacuum hoses for this car (E39), then you bought the WRONG car, period.

C'mon now. Don't continue to be ridiculous. Nobody is saying they can't afford to buy the replacement hoses for their BMW. You are the only one intimating anyone is saying that.

What is being said is that we should, at the very least, know WHERE to LOOK for deteriorated vacuum hoses ... and, when the original hoses apparently don't last ... that we should replace them.

It also has been said that the original hoses, like so many things BMW, are of inferior materials ... so that, when we replace deteriorated hoses, we may as well replace them with commonly available (and vastly less expensive and decidedly better hoses).

The decided-better hose suggestions have been along the line of the NAPA orange silicone hoses, for example ...

mach.schnell said:
Use NAPA orange silicone vacuum hose. This won't deteriorate.

Jason5driver said:
And, who actually gets prices/ price quotes from Real OEM????

C'mon. Don't make up drama that we don't need if we're to move forward.

I'm not a spring chicken when it comes to price & vendor searches. Every time I mentioned realoem prices, I said they were 'nominal'. If you don't know what nominal means, you have basic English issues that I can't really help you with.

When we're talking generically, it's OK to deal with nominal prices. The actual prices can be higher or lower than nominal - but - in my humble experience, I almost always see dealer prices of double and often triple nominal prices (admittedly at Silicon Valley prices where a half-million-dollar home is a POS with a postage-stamp lawn and about 1200 sq feet of living space with neighbors and barking dogs two feet away from your window).

In fact, in all my years of doing price surveys, I don't think I've ever seen a price LOWER than realoem nominal at my local Silicon Valley BMW dealer (Stevenscreek BMW of San Jose).

Of course, in places where a barely decent house isn't over a million dollars, I'm sure the far-from-here BMW dealers 'might' charge less than Realoem 'nominal' prices - but that isn't the point when you're dealing with discussions of what size, and material are best for E39 vacuum hoses. But we digress ...

Jason5driver said:
By trying to make-shift vacuum hoses for your car, you are going to end up with MORE vacuum leaks and problems IMO.

This is good advice. Since we first have to find the sum total of hoses to replace, that price will wait until we get a good list of all the hoses that 'could' deteriorate and cause vacuum leaks conditions.

So far, the list of hoses to check seems to be the following:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)
07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)

Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP

05 PRESSURE HOSE ASSY 1 11721435456 $22.73

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator

13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87

Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine

02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25

Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77
04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77

Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.73
03 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s)
07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87

Of those above, these smaller hoses seem to be most problematic:

04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s)

And, these larger hoses are apparently problematic:

02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25
02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.7303 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87

Moving forward ...

Q: How would you (or anyone) modify this list of most important hoses to check for deterioration?

bluebee · Oct 17, 2011

BTW, a very weird hose-connection inconsistency has been identified here just now:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV vacuum hose important?

Notice that the ENDED part numbers only, match between the SAS & CCV system diagram; yet the NEW part numbers don't!

bluebee said:
Trying to put the puzzle together, I notice what you're intimating by comparing ENDED part numbers between the two diagrams!

Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82

06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,75 51731257971 ENDED

06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,8 11747797175 ENDED

Comparing that to the other reputed side, the plot thickens:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 11657803732 $16.43

07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,75 51731257971 ENDED

07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,8 11747797175 ENDED

Notice only the (color-coded) ENDED part numbers are redundant.

Q: What does this weirdly inconsistent information tell us?

Steve530 · Oct 28, 2011

On my 2001 530i M54 that nipple on the CCV is capped. I have no idea why the diagram lists a hose there or where that hose would go.

My guess is that the CCV is made to fit both the M54 and an earlier engine that used that to supply vacuum to the CCV. I would also guess that specific vacuum hose was redundant and eliminated on the M54 engine.

The diagram for my engine vacuum control shows two caps on the back of the manifold. I don't know if both are actually capped. I felt one cap which is large, so I'd guess it is the 7mm cap 11611727176. The 3.5mm cap is listed as 11611437560.

I need to replace the smaller hose that comes from the "F" connector. Does anyone know where that hose connects to?

bluebee · Oct 28, 2011

Steve530 said:
I need to replace the smaller hose that comes from the "F" connector. Does anyone know where that hose connects to?

See this thread for more complete details:
- Correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1)

That small F-connector hose is #13 here which is about a foot (or so) long:

But, these Realoem diagrams STINK at showing you WHERE they actually connect!

The small hose connects from the F connector lower spout to a metal pipe which is secured on the wall just below the shock mounts (under the driver side air filter housing).

Here is my old small hose in place:

Here I am sizing the six feet of O'Reilly Auto Parts vacuum hose by connecting first to the metal pipe and then cutting to fit to the F connector:
- O'Reilly p/n P3340 $3.49 Thermoid Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing 5/32" x 6'

Here is the new hose from O'Reilly Auto Parts, now cut and in place on the F connector:

And, to give you a better idea of exactly what it looks like where it connects to the metal pipe, here is a closeup of the connection to item #10 vacuum pipe in the realoem diagram above.

Notice the metal vacuum pipe fits into a C-shaped metal bracket bolted to the side of the engine bay with and easy-to-lose removable rubber sleeve insert for vibration protection:

The reason the tip of the old small hose is frayed is because I was removing the hoses in the O'Reilly parking lot with the lousy screwdriver in the trunk toolkit to bring them inside for sizing.

Here are both hoses in situ on the F connector; notice they're just about the same length:

EDIT: The smaller-length broken hose in this picture is the SAP valve hose on the other side of the engine.

bluebee · Oct 28, 2011

Where is the SECOND endcap?

Steve530 said:
The diagram for my engine vacuum control shows two caps on the back of the manifold.

Interesting. I only see one cap in my diagram which caps the port shown in post #9 above.
- Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

Steve530 said:
I felt one cap which is large, so I'd guess it is the 7mm cap 11611727176. The 3.5mm cap is listed as 11611437560.

I only replaced one endcap because that's all I could find; and even then, since the Realoem diagram doesn't show a size or part number, I don't know if the cap I put on is a cause for my slight vacuum leaks.

You clearly mention a SECOND endcap. What is the location of that second endcap?

Here is what the original endcap looks like, open end:

And here is what the closed end looks like on the original endcap:

It's important we find that second endcap you speak of.
Do you have a photo of it?

If it's in as bad a shape as my one endcap, I need to find it and replace it!

Steve530 · Oct 28, 2011

Thanks for the information about the lower hose. I could tell it went to a metal line that disappears into the abyss of the engine compartment. I just didn't know what was connected to the other end.

I got the numbers for the caps from the engine intake manifold diagram for my 2001 530i. I think they're the same for your car.

Next time I'm at the dealer, I'm going to pick up one of those "F" connectors. It's one of those parts that are prone to breaking and are only available at the dealer. And a clutch pivot pin, too.

bluebee · Oct 28, 2011

Steve530 said:
Thanks for the information about the lower hose. I could tell it went to a metal line that disappears into the abyss of the engine compartment. I just didn't know what was connected to the other end..

Here is another thread showing where that F-connector small hose goes:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

Once you recognize the parts, you can see the metal tube that the other end of the hose is still connected to has been slipped out of its c-shaped metal bracket (which is bolted to the metal body of the car):

bluebee · Oct 28, 2011

Steve530 said:
I got the numbers for the caps from the engine intake manifold diagram for my 2001 530i. I think they're the same for your car.

I just realized you're looking at a DIFFERENT diagram than what I'm looking at! And, that there are (apparently) THREE endcaps in that diagram (not two).

I didn't understand what you were saying until I did a part number search using the two part numbers you referenced above.

Here is the diagram I'm looking at (where only one endcap is shown and it doesn't have any description whatsoever):
- Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

Here is the diagram YOU are looking at (which shows two endcaps & a description which describes THREE endcaps):
Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system

It looks, to me, like the larger #17 on your diagram is the same endcap #9 on my diagram (and as shown below on my M54 engine):

So while your P/N information clarifies the sizes, there is the open question of where that THIRD endcap is located?

I'm not sure why they use a different size notation for endcaps (e.g., D=3,5MM) versus for the vacuum lines (e.g., 3,5x1,8 is 3.5mm ID & 1.8mm wall thickness) ... but here are the THREE endcaps I 'think' we need to buy (note the quantity = 2 for the smaller endcap):

#15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
#17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32")

This size chart is from here:

Steve530 · Oct 30, 2011

How about we put that second 3.5mm vacuum cap on the unused vacuum port of the CCV?

bluebee · Oct 30, 2011

Steve530 said:
How about we put that second 3.5mm vacuum cap on the unused vacuum port of the CCV?

Thanks Steve,

By the lack of response, I'm assuming very few people, if any, actually know where the problematic endcaps lie in the E39. Even so, we'll do the best we can with the limited information available.

Based on what we found in post #20 here, out of the two, three, or four endcaps reputed to be in the E39, here's the best I can do so far without additional help:

This diagram loosely intimates there is one capped vacuum port:
- Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL
- #9, Size or part number not shown (probably 7 mm as shown in #17 below)
  - This is probably the same as #17 in the "Intake Manifold System" diagram.
This diagram outright says there are three capped vacuum ports:
- Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
- #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
  - One of these is probably for the CCV valve vacuum port on the M54
  - The other 'may' be if the M54 does not have an air pump, then it would cap off that vacuum port in the back of the engine where #7 hose would go in the "Air pump F Vacuum Control" diagram.
- #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32")
  - This clearly is the rear vacuum port behind the sucking jet pump on my M54

Note: Searching found a vacuum endcap in the fuel system lines near the exhaust manifold; but that was in other forums and I haven't seen it here so it isn't described yet until someone gives us a better clue.

bluebee · Oct 30, 2011

Chisum said:
Hi Blue

Take a sample of the hose you need to your local auto parts store they will sell you what you need. I think the vacuum hose you get at your local store is better then what BMW put on the car. Just my opinion.

Chisum

Yet another owner reported that method failed him just today.

The main problem with the "Autozone method" is that it pre-supposed the stores stock metric-sized tubing ... or even enough SAE-sized tubing to mix & match ... but, from my experience, and from that of others, they don't so that method fails, unfortunately...

Another key problem which will arise, is once you've removed the hose, now you're stuck (since it often has to be destroyed) without a source for a vacuum hose.

So, I think the 'bring it down to the store' idea qualifies as a 'bad idea'.

We need a better approach which includes being positive of the hose size, material, and availability.

EDIT: For the record, the best we can come up with (so far) for vacuum endcap location & sizes is the following:

bluebee said:
Thanks Steve,

By the lack of response, I'm assuming very few people, if any, actually know where the problematic endcaps lie in the E39. Even so, we'll do the best we can with the limited information available.

Based on what we found in post #20 here, out of the two, three, or four endcaps reputed to be in the E39, here's the best I can do so far without additional help:

This diagram loosely intimates there is one capped vacuum port:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

#9, Size or part number not shown (probably 7 mm as shown in #17 below)

This is probably the same as #17 in the "Intake Manifold System" diagram.

This diagram outright says there are three capped vacuum ports:

Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system

#15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)

One of these is probably for the CCV valve vacuum port on the M54

The other 'may' be if the M54 does not have an air pump, then it would cap off that vacuum port in the back of the engine where #7 hose would go in the "Air pump F Vacuum Control" diagram.

#17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32")

This clearly is the rear vacuum port behind the sucking jet pump on my M54

Note: Searching found a vacuum endcap in the fuel system lines near the exhaust manifold; but that was in other forums and I haven't seen it here so it isn't described yet until someone gives us a better clue.

bluebee · Nov 2, 2011

For the record, Steve is doing a test, for the team described over in this thread just now:
- Where to get M54 metric sized vacuum tubin at a decent price (or what American size)?

Steve530 said:
...Viton tubing would last longer because it is unaffected by heat and oil.

I ordered and received 5' of the 5119K41 Viton tubing 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD 1/16" wall Shore 60A. It is about as flexible as silicone tubing. I replaced the piece of tubing from the SAP valve to the hard plastic pipe under the oxygen sensor connector. This tubing is a good tight fit for that application that is listed as 3.3mm. Maybe a little tight on the hard tubing, but that's probably good. It also fits well on the lower part of the "F" connector that goes to the FPR, which is listed as 3.5mm tubing.

Looks to me as though 1/8" tubing will work for both 3.3mm and 3.5mm if it is flexible enough.

I'll replace all the 3.3mm and 3.5mm tubing I can find with the Viton tubing and let you know how much tubing I used.

Given that new information, here is the current set of recommendations for E39 vacuum tubing:

$7 ===> Norprene,61A (soft), -75°F to +275°F, PN: 51075K22, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/16" thick, $0.72/ft (minimum length = 10 feet)

$21 ==> Viton, Shore 60A (soft), -15°F to +400°F, PN: 5119K41, 1/8" ID, 1/16" thick, $4.19/ft, available length >= 3' = 5 feet)

$22 ==> Gum rubber, 45A (very soft), -70°F to +180°F, PN: 5543K41, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/8" thick, $2.21/ft (minimum length = 10 feet)

$55 ===> Viton, Shore 60A (soft), -15°F to +400°F, PN: 5119K48, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/8" thick, $11/ft, available length >= 3' = 5 feet)

Silicone,

Note: McMaster-Carr doesn't seem to have Silicone Rubber hoses of 1/8" ID

PS: I've found out that one-piece tubing is not called 'hose' so my title of this thread is incorrect. I apologize.

bluebee · Nov 3, 2011

Steve reported back to the team!

Here is a summary:

3 feet of 1/8" ID by 1/8" thick Viton tubing (Shore 60A) was idea; you don't want anything harder than Shore 60A and you can get away with only about six inches shorter in length.
The BMW diagrams for his M54 were wrong on the thin plastic tube on the passenger side connected to the SAP valve and the electric valve; it's not straight; it's actually curved.
Best to slice the old tubing longitudinally with a knife to remove.

Looks like we need a second source for that very thin & long vacuum pipe as the realoem prices are horrendous.

Steve530 said:
I finished replacing the vacuum tubing between the SAP electric valve and the SAP Valve and the tubing between the lower nipple of the "F" connector and the hard tubing that goes to the FPR. That was all of the vacuum tubing I could find on the topside of my 2001 530i M54.

I used the 1/8" Viton ID tubing with 1/8" thick walls. It was a tight fit on the hard plastic tubes, but workable. I don't think you'd want anything stiffer unless it was just a little larger inside.

I started with 5 feet of tubing, and I had 2.5 feet of tubing left over. I also a short piece where I measured wrong.

It was difficult to remove the old tubing off. I had to cut it off the hard plastic tubing. I found it easiest to split the tubing with a knife and peel it off. The tubing going to the electric valve was hard to reach. You have to work blind. Also, I found that the hard plastic tubing that runs from the SAP valve along the valve cover was curved around the back. It was not two pieces of hard plastic tubing connected with flexible tubing as the diagram seems to show.

The old tubing was intact, but snapped when I tried to pull it off. It was functional, but deteriorating.

In addition, based on this thread, we've updated the locations of the evaporator purge valve vacuum hoses:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > EVAP Purge Valve Flow

M54 vacuum tubing ... what diameter ... what brand ... what material ... what length?

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